Central Boiler E Classic 2400 / 1400 Creosote Problem

[ParadisePA]

I've been burning my CB E Classic 2400 for a year with little issue.  This week, I noticed (rapid onset) that the reaction chamber temp hard a hard time getting above 550, and when it did and the second solenoid kicked on, the temp immediately dropped back down below 550, and then would creep back up and cycle down, again and again.  I checked the air inlet tubes in the back of the furnace and discovered that the uppermost one was completely full of creosote, restricting airflow.  It wasn't all that hard to clean, frankly, but I'd rather not.  I scrape the reaction slot open twice per day, burn dry, clean oak (exclusively), and otherwise follow CB's owners manual cleaning schedule.  My neighbor has a 1400, and when I discussed it with him, he said he has the same problem.  Any fixes, either CB or home grown?

[Roger2561]

I've been burning my CB E Classic 2400 for a year with little issue.  This week, I noticed (rapid onset) that the reaction chamber temp hard a hard time getting above 550, and when it did and the second solenoid kicked on, the temp immediately dropped back down below 550, and then would creep back up and cycle down, again and again.  I checked the air inlet tubes in the back of the furnace and discovered that the uppermost one was completely full of creosote, restricting airflow.  It wasn't all that hard to clean, frankly, but I'd rather not.  I scrape the reaction slot open twice per day, burn dry, clean oak (exclusively), and otherwise follow CB's owners manual cleaning schedule.  My neighbor has a 1400, and when I discussed it with him, he said he has the same problem.  Any fixes, either CB or home grown?

I can't speak for the e2400 for I have the e1400.  Every month I try to have a look at the primary air solenoid elbow for creosote build up.  My experience shows that regardless of the dryness of the wood there will be some creosote build up.  I learned this the hard way.  For the neighbor who has the e1400 -make sure he keeps the air holes along the sides and back of the firebox clear of creosote build up too.  They will clog and stop all air movement.  When that happens you'll  be outside at 1:00am in 15 degree weather unplugging them (don't ask how I know) because the fire went out due to the lack of air.  I have a screwdriver bent to get in there and make sure they are clear.

My firewood is 2 years old, stacked with each row being 2 feet apart to allow for air movement, outdoors and covered the top with tarp.  When it comes time to put it under cover for the burning season I have louvres on the end of my shed that allows for air to continue circulating even in the winter and keeps the moisture away from the wood.  Even with all of this, I still have moisture in the wood and no amount of drying will get all of it out.  Thus creosote will eventually build up.    Good luck and stay warm.  Roger

[stratford 50]

I just cleaned both tubes this week and they were 20% plugged. I'm running the e-classic 2300. My thinking is too much idle time between good hot burns might be causing this.

[doctorb]

I really think that the best way to keep those air passages clear is to burn a very hot fire, with coals barely to the level of the air holes, so you can work.  A fire with a bunch of logs stacked in there can get hot, but it's difficult to work at cleaning the passages when the fire box is even minimally full.  I clean them with the door open and a board holding the fan contact switch in the "on" position.  With the fans going and the door open, a very hot fire develops quickly.  Let the cycle get up to "high burn".  I then use my long handled scraper to scrape any creosote from the surface of the air holes.  Usually, the heat of the fire and the scraping ignites some of the creosote, creating an even hotter fire.  Any blockages in the holes themselves is usually burned off, and the free flow of air from each air hole is quite evident.  If it is not, I have a long bent metal rod to free any remaining creosote from the intakes at both the sides of the firebox and the back.  You would be surprised at the creosote that burns off with this maneuver.  I purposely do this about once a week.  Because the fire has to still be hot but the amount of fuel in the firebox must be low, you have to guess during your day when is the best time to perform this trick.

[ParadisePA]

Thanks for the replies!  Contacted my installer/supplier.  He called CB and was told it usually happens when the ash/coal bed gets too high and doesn't allow unrestricted air flow from the center tube (over the reaction chamber) and down the reaction chamber slot.  I thought I was keeping it fairly clear this winter, but he said it needs more than a quick scrape each day, but rather a really good cleaning around the slot.  I'll try the "hot burn" technique to help (CB guy mentioned that, too).

Similar: how do you keep the channels behind the holes from getting plugged?  It's easy to clean the holes, but getting the area behind and between the holes is nearly impossible.  I burn mine 365 days a year (heat pool and household water, too), so I don't have an "off season" cleaning opportunity.

[hockeyguy]

As Doc said, a good creasote fire every 5 days or so helps keep my 2300 firebox clean, especially the back shelf which tends to accumulate fast and thick.
I think we all get buildup in the solenoid elbow. As  dry as my wood is, I need to clean out the upper solenoid elbow a few times each year.
After I pull the solenoid elbow off, I like to put my shop vac hose on the port and blow and suck loose debris out.

[Logging logginglogging]

I usually only need to clean out the sylinoid elbows at shutdown at the end of the year, I ahve not problem with them during the year. I do plan to do that "Hole cutting" mod on the back air channel like what was posted on here some time ago