I wondered about a Topic for general routine maintenance? Usual and unusual stuff that may help someone else along their sawmilling way.
Yesterday when I shut the sawmill engine off I heard a strange noise that certainly was not supposed to be. My customer then listened and said that it was coming from the alternator so...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3552~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677186565)
This morning I pulled the alternator and sure enough, the fan had lost it's grip and was freewheeling on the shaft. A quick trip to the alternator shop and...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3553~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677186727)
$20 and I was up and running again.
Next my blade guide tray was....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3554~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677186825)
Badly rusted. You can see my hand through the hole so....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3557.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677186602)
I fabricated a piece of metal to cover the rusted area.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3556~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677186584)
A one inch and a 2 inch fender washer covered most of the hole. The screws got nubbed off and the underside got a good spraying with bed liner like the topside.
So what have you fixed??
"So what have you fixed??"
How much time do you have to discuss this? :D :D :D
I don't see how anyone could own a sawmill w/o being able to do mechanical and welding work.
Earlier today I worked on one of the support legs on Tom. It had bent and had to be heated up, straightened out, and welded a new brace inside the 2x4 rectangular tubing. After that we re-leveled the entire mill and then re-adjusted the band alignments. Also had the solenoid shut down go bad on the Kubota diesel and ordered a new one. And the guard on the guide arm had started vibrating against the blade and knocking it out of set.
Hydraulic hoses are always providing a challenge, and right now I need to rebuild the three cylinders for the fence but I'm not able to source the kits from Prince or Baker. I'll probably have to set a couple of down days, take apart one cylinder and go to Cat to see if they can make me a parts kit for the repair. In the past year I've rebuilt all the other cylinders on the mill.
Front seal has been replaced along with a fan blade last year, along with some of the flexible track for the hydraulic hoses, and last month I replaced most of the connectors for the electronic solenoid valves on the setworks. That reminds me, the mounting post for the debarker hydraulic cylinder needs welding....
Every day is a new adventure...
That is not a bad price to be back in the saw seat.
When I removed the blade after sawing on Monday, I saw a oil fill line I never noticed before. I did not see anywhere to put oil or even check it near the sticker. Please provide me some guidance on this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/A115C89D-1F34-462F-8223-0E3006B324A2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677188649)
This is on the drive side behind the blade wheel.
Every morning we go through a check list .
It doesn't hurt to put your eyes on everything, just to make sure.
The winter can be tough on the mill.
Quote from: caveman on February 23, 2023, 04:49:05 PMPlease provide me some guidance on this.
If that is where the sight tube on the cylindrical bearing should be then it is ultra serious. Obviously your mill is different from mine, but the label is the same. My sight tube is behind the cover that is beneath the fuel & lube jugs. I thought that surely I had a picture but no can find one.
You should be able to find it in your operator's manual.
Quote from: scsmith42 on February 23, 2023, 04:45:01 PMHow much time do you have to discuss this?
You are correct Scott, but I was thinking this morning about how much routine stuff that we do that just might help someone else.
Maybe having a maintenance topic is a good idea? If not it will simply die.
Quote from: caveman on February 23, 2023, 04:49:05 PMI saw a oil fill line I never noticed before.
Here is a picture of mine from my service/operator's manual:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3559.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677193512)
Yours must be set up different from mine. If this housing runs dry the results would be ultra serious. Your sight tube must be behind that cover. ??
Lynn.
What did you have to do with the alternator? I missed that? Did you replace it or repair or just replace a missing bolt or such?
My engine still just has the oil dip stick. I just did the 50 hour maintenance and also changed the oil and replaced the oil, air and fuel filter. My big problem now is just being able to see the oil on the stick because it is so clear.
The 50 hour service is great and I am anal about doing them because the checklist makes me open up and check things I forget to do daily. My biggest oversight is probably to clean the air prefilter and I was embarrassed at myself last week when I saw how dirty it was. I have an extra foam pre-filter and need to remember to clean and oil it and just swap them out after every few hours running.
I had one grease Zerk pop out and I replaced it with a screw in type but drilled the hole too big and kept losing them so I tried replacing it with a bigger one and drilled it too big and can only get a couple of threads to bite and that does not hold under pressure of the grease gun so I and going to try threading it what I can and see if JB weld will help hold it in place.
Sorry Howard, I see that I neglected to say that the alternator shop removed the pulley and replaced the fan. There was a fairly large chip/corner gone from one fin on the old fan so I suspect that a flying chunk of wood somehow got to the alternator which caused the fan to separated from the collar that fits over the shaft.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 23, 2023, 07:32:19 PMsee if JB weld will help hold it in place
I would use Brakekleen, etc. to get it squeaky clean before attempting JB.
@caveman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12883) ;
If you are just finding that you should pull the hose, drain and change the fluid and put a new sight tube hose on it.
My hose was stained and made it look like the fluid was full when in fact it ran dry and ruined the bearing assembly. I don't remember how much it costs for the bearing assembly but the oil and tube is WAY cheaper.
mh
Quote from: caveman on February 23, 2023, 04:49:05 PM
That is not a bad price to be back in the saw seat.
When I removed the blade after sawing on Monday, I saw a oil fill line I never noticed before. I did not see anywhere to put oil or even check it near the sticker. Please provide me some guidance on this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/A115C89D-1F34-462F-8223-0E3006B324A2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677188649)
This is on the drive side behind the blade wheel.
I believe my mill has this same sticker. It seems confusing, until you shine a flashlight through the hole where that bolt is sticking out. You should be able to see the main bearing tube that @Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) is talking about. I think it's a way to quickly check the tube without opening up the side cover. The sticker may not help a lot to be able to gauge the level of fluid in the tube, but it does remind you to check.
I appreciate the education. Somehow, we missed this. Generally, we are meticulous about keeping machinery clean, lubed and ready to run.
It makes sense to be able to see the sight tube without removing a cover and the sticker showing what the level should be. This looks like something that was probably added to later sawmill revisions.
We can all learn something. :P
Quote from: Magicman on February 23, 2023, 05:48:15 PM
Quote from: scsmith42 on February 23, 2023, 04:45:01 PMHow much time do you have to discuss this?
You are correct Scott, but I was thinking this morning about how much routine stuff that we do that just might help someone else.
Maybe having a maintenance topic is a good idea? If not it will simply die.
Ah, thanks for the e clarification. In my mind I confused "maintenance" with "repair"
One of the things that we do is use a leaf blower to blow out the mill at the end of every day's milling. That helps to keep potential issues visible.
Quote from: scsmith42 on February 24, 2023, 05:43:18 AMIn my mind I confused "maintenance" with "repair"
So do I. I need to edit the topic title to cover both. My opening post was certainly about repairs which was my intention.
This thread is a good reminder for me that I should do some routine maint to my mill. I put a new motor on it in 2020. It is due for an oil change and fuel filter. Also, I noticed that the 90 that comes out of my exhaust is cracked, so it needs to be changed or welded. I will pull it off and see what needs to be done.
Two must do's blow off the sawdust after sawing and keep a record written down of the time between grease jobs.
I use the hour meter for set the grease schedule, every 10 hours. Not perfect but there is idle time on all machines. And easy when it rolls over its time.
Speaking of grease, do any of you have a method of removing broken press in grease fittings?
It's much easier to diagnose problems if things are kept clean as I go along. I agree with periodic cleanup during the day and at the end of the day.
Twice a year I usually would pressure wash the mill, afterwards it would get greased, oil change, new plugs, air filter and ATF on the chains. It would get a dose of Seafoam in the gas tank.
Usually before winter I would check the battery, clean the posts and check the cables. At that time I would check the bottom rail contact.
Seemed like alternator belts had a way of reminding me they don't last forever. The drive belt replacement usually came due to sawyer error (like knocking the blade off when jogging back for the next cut) or broken blades.
Quote from: Dan_Shade on February 24, 2023, 08:38:35 AM
Speaking of grease, do any of you have a method of removing broken press in grease fittings?
I would heat if first to maybe soften a clog. A sharp upward rap with a chisel should dislodge it.
Drill bit may dislodge the broken zerk
It's broke off at the surface, I thought it was threaded, an easy out just spins it in the hole...
Picture?
Quote from: Dan_Shade on February 24, 2023, 08:38:35 AM
Speaking of grease, do any of you have a method of removing broken press in grease fittings?
If you have a few different sizes of hex or Torx bits handy, this little trick seems like a winner:
How to remove a broken grease fitting - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uxj0LnLiUEs)
Nice! I will remember that little gem of information!
I have a ton of those misc T-bits... I'll toss a few into my toolbox that holds all my grease gun/zerks/etc maintenance stuff.
Thanks for sharing ;D
I appreciate all of the guidance on the oil level tube. I pulled the cover off today to check it and the tube was broken. When I touched it, it came apart in my hand. I did not have any 3/8" clear tubing so off to TSC I went. I poured fresh ATF in and drained it once before filling and attaching the tube at the top. The mill has 496 hours, and it was due to be changed at 500 according to the manual.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/38F38F32-D7C1-4D38-B130-8D7B04473AC5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677274150)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/22AEAA0C-150D-4035-A512-7C75D6DE8174.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677274189)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/9DA4603D-04A9-4362-AF27-E0FC3E6ED94B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677273708)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/D6654846-D43D-49EA-A3D6-97496C3367AC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677274248)
My intention was to saw some 1x6's for a customer while waiting for JMoore to get off work so we could return to the salt mines (jointing and planing another pallet of live oak). Instead, I got to do this small repair job. The 1x can wait until the morning. I did saw six or seven short pine logs to use for above ground planters similar to the one I made two years ago that recently bit the dust (pictured below).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/454F797F-80A4-4FBB-8C84-C02DB63702F2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617583668)
One broken off grease fitting
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/PXL_20230224_220424188.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1677276378)
Quote from: caveman on February 24, 2023, 04:38:22 PMI appreciate all of the guidance on the oil level tube.
Nice save Kyle.
Dan, if all else fails you always have the option of drilling and tapping a new hole.
I've never tried it on a grease fitting, but if all else fails and you have access to a welder, you may clean the fitting very well and weld a nut to it. The nut will give you something to get a hold on and the heat from the welding process will likely expedite the extraction.
Several years ago, I thought it would be easier to remove my truck's bed rather than drop the fuel tank to work on the fuel pick up. All was going well until one of the bed to frame bolts (big torx head) would not budge, even after breaking two torx 1/2" impact bits. I welded a 1" nut on it and with the help of a lengthy bar it came out.
I'd vote for the drill and tap. Looks like easy access. Had one of those press in zerks pop out recently. Drilled and threaded another one in, next size up, fixed. 8)
Quote from: Dan_Shade on February 24, 2023, 03:18:59 PM
It's broke off at the surface, I thought it was threaded, an easy out just spins it in the hole...
Use a center punch to tighten the zerk in the hole by punching the edge. Once tight drill it out.
I went to my lawn and garden place in town and got oil, fuel and air filters, plus 3 quarts of oil. Oil change went well. Fuel filter change went well. Air filter was the wrong one. The one I got was too tall. I wonder if they'll let me bring it back to exchange an open package.
Quote from: scsmith42 on February 24, 2023, 05:43:18 AM
Quote from: Magicman on February 23, 2023, 05:48:15 PM
Quote from: scsmith42 on February 23, 2023, 04:45:01 PMHow much time do you have to discuss this?
You are correct Scott, but I was thinking this morning about how much routine stuff that we do that just might help someone else.
Maybe having a maintenance topic is a good idea? If not it will simply die.
Ah, thanks for the e clarification. In my mind I confused "maintenance" with "repair"
One of the things that we do is use a leaf blower to blow out the mill at the end of every day's milling. That helps to keep potential issues visible.
We do the same after lunch and the end of the day
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on February 25, 2023, 02:13:27 PM
I went to my lawn and garden place in town and got oil, fuel and air filters, plus 3 quarts of oil. Oil change went well. Fuel filter change went well. Air filter was the wrong one. The one I got was too tall. I wonder if they'll let me bring it back to exchange an open package.
Your mistake or theirs?
Back to reply #28: Drive Wheel shaft/bearings assembly oil. It does not take long for the assembly to lock up without oil. I replace the tube and ATF, got it broke loose and so far have milled about 75 hours. I know I will eventually have to replace the assembly.
It is a pretty flimsy set up for such a important part of the machine. I think a dip stick would have better. Imagine a plastic sight glass to check engine oil or gas tank.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=121104.msg1955038#msg1955038
That clear tube is a horrible idea, imo. Like SAS said, a dipstick would be way better. Even a plug at the fill height would be way better. That's all I have on the ol' '97.
I am content with the sight tube and I give it a look-see whenever that cover is off. I have never had it to be low on fluid in 20 years of sawing and replace the fluid and tube every couple of years.
I dislike all of the covers but I also realize that they are necessary. I may investigate whether there is or could be a way to view the tube without removing the cover. Of course that would also allow sawdust to enter so.... ::)
Weather permitting I will be sawing SYP Monday.
FWIW, my sight tube degraded on my old LT40 also, so I replaced it with the fuel and lubricant rated Tygon, it is yellow and still see through. It will last much longer than the clear tubing which isn't formulated for long term chemical exposures.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3464.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677446567)
Normal daily checks before starting sawing discovered the chip deflector was against the drive side roller guide. I pulled the deflector away but the roller guide did not roll freely and looked a little worn - I don't know how long I had run it while blocked. I had a spare and it was a few minutes work with a 3/8" socket set to change it out and I was ready to resume milling. Now I just need to order another spare roller guide.
It's amazing how chips & sawdust can gradually bend that chip deflector. I replaced my blade guide assembly last Summer and I noticed last week that the deflector is no more than 1/8" from the roller.
Yup, I order a half dozen rollers at the time plus that many cam followers. When I get down to two, it's time to reorder. I always try to kinda make the shipping worthwhile.
Howard, you don't do a full blade guide alignment when you replace the roller to check head and blade tilt? Takes me longer than a few minutes to get all that done right. That roller sure does look toasted though but I can't see how much wear is on it.
Tom,
I did not in this case as I was just sawing a couple of items for my own use and they looked good but I will verify with a quick measurement check. I did not loosen any of the set screws so I will be surprised if there is any change.
Yesterday I notice that the last log loaded slower than normal so I glanced at my indicator lights. The left light was sorta flashing rather than steady so I grabbed a new solenoid from the tool box.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_2346.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653606847)
The one on the right got replaced, so it was a simple and easy fix.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5764.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1636568142)
Both lights glowing brightly now.
YH: so I replaced it with the fuel and lubricant rated Tygon
Where did you get that tubing? which store?
Jim Rogers
The 3 PSI check valve failed in my LubeMizer yesterday and instead of removing the cover and replacing that "hard-to-get-to" check valve, I left that one in place and installed the new check valve "in line".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3588~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1677713456)
I had already decided what I was going to do so I had everything ready. This may not be the ideal spot nor the permanent spot but it worked very well today.
@Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) Do you have a link to your LED mod?
Here you go Dan: LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=7789.msg1642778#msg1642778)
I thought I had remembered that the LED's were a mod but I had to go look at my mill anyway. I would have been terribly embarrassed if they had been there and me not to have noticed after all these years. :D
As we continue our mill maintenance.... having great success with the new speed pot replacement. We decided to clean out the area by the Up/Down Assembly.
Took both front and rear panels off and wiped down and blew out.... it was really dirty, quite embarrassing! :-[
When my son found a grease zerk fitting on a bearing... looks like the Bearing, Flanged Up/Down part no: 014090 in the parts manual - even though the manual does not show a grease fitting in the drawing.
Well, I have to admit that we have never greased that bearing.... and I have asked other sawyers here if they knew about this grease fitting and they too have not been maintaining this fitting.
I just thought I would add this to the list because there might be other sawyers who don't know about this well hidden zerk/grease fitting! LOL!
Cheers!
That is a very slow operating bearing and a good greasing will last many years. Sometimes during cleanup I may even remember that it is there and give it a few pumps.
LOL!!!!!! OK, I will not worry about that but I will add it to the yearly maint list!
Thanks @Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) , your experience is much appreciated!!!!!
If you ever get to central Wisconsin, let me know and lunch is at my place!!!!! 8)
-Dad2FourWI
Dad brings up a good point that I wish came with the operator/maintenance manual for the mills - a simple chart showing/listing the locations of all the grease zerks so when we grease the mill we don't miss one. I grease every fitting I know of but if I am missing one I don't know it. I cant imagine it would be hard to generate one at the factory by doing a simple search on Grease fittings. Maybe the mill makers are reading this and can generate one in the future.
.
Some of the old, old tractor manuals had those lube locations on a picture of the machine. Many manuals had multi pages of different views showing locations of grease fittings and fill caps for oils etc.
.
IIRC that zerk is to be greased every 1,000 hours.
On my mill, I greased it any time the shield was off!
Yes, I still refer back to my old Ford manual for the locations of the zerks... that is exactly what I wanted for my mill.
I said this same thing to the tech support at WM.... and he said to "Get to know your mill better".
OK, he is correct, but gee, not exactly what I wanted to hear! LOL! :D
Started my " I wish it was yearly but don't think I got to it last year " in the garage maintenance.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11405/IMG_20230305_102250327_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678030040)
Stainless bunk caps off, ground off the rust, rust converter, black equipment paint. I'll wait a week for the paint to dry then put the caps back on.
Changing all fluids and filters. Control boxes all open to check for loose connections and green goonies.
If anyone knows, tell me about pulling the idler side band wheel. The bearing has always had some side to side play, not worried about that. Now to seems loud when I free spin it. I would like to get it off so I can feel the bearing with my fingers. I may have to borrow/ rent a large puller.
Next weekend the bunk covers will go back on the I can go through a complete adjustment on the band / head / setworks.
Off to see a movie with my 7 yo grand son this afternoon.
mh
what movie? My daughter and I go to all the new great animated movies. the same ones have been shoeing here for 2 months. she is 24 with a degree in animation.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/01D5ED44-353A-4715-ABA4-AC1774237DD1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1678031312)
"If anyone knows, tell me about pulling the idler side band wheel.."
Take the bolt out and it comes right off. No force necessary to remove in my experience. I've replaced the bearings more than a few times and they always seem to have some play in them.
Quote from: doc henderson on March 05, 2023, 10:48:50 AM
what movie? My daughter and I go to all the new great animated movies. the same ones have been shoeing here for 2 months. she is 24 with a degree in animation.
Doc:
Thanks for the education. I had never heard of a degree in animation.
GAB
many of the classes are also in game design or graphic design, but only one college in Ks offers that bachelors degree. they do the computer style. My daughter like the old 2 D.
Thanks GAB, Doc!
Smallmill; it won't just slide off. Tried some pressure with a hammer and brass drift. It ain't movin.
Doc, Puss N Boots. Some of that computer animation is impressive!
mh
(15) How to Replace a Bandwheel Bearing - Wood Mizer LT40 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsmaTt0gWjI)
Sure didn't slide off for me! LOL
and I learned to leave the C-Clip on and let a machine shop deal with it :o ;D
OJ, thanks for the video. I was pretty sure that is what I would need to do. mh
You bet!
OJ , I like the sign on your mill! It looks familiar
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11405/IMG_20230307_083453646.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678196144)
mh
Quote from: caveman on February 23, 2023, 04:49:05 PM
That is not a bad price to be back in the saw seat.
When I removed the blade after sawing on Monday, I saw a oil fill line I never noticed before. I did not see anywhere to put oil or even check it near the sticker. Please provide me some guidance on this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/A115C89D-1F34-462F-8223-0E3006B324A2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677188649)
This is on the drive side behind the blade wheel.
I am going to say it is the oil level for the drive side main bearing.
Sorry I replied before I read the whole thread
I check my Drive belt Tension 1st of the week, ATF everything at the same time, chain, felt, all nuts and bolts. I have a small pump oil can that I fill and go around the machine until it's empty.
I do need another chip deflector, I am on #3 on this mill.
lol @moosehunter (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1405) I think a lot of us use that one 😉
I don't remember how I got the idle side bearing off. It may have just slid off once the retaining bolt was removed, or I used a 3 jaw puller. Either way it didn't fight me enough for me to remember it🤷
I've changed those bearings several times, now I upgraded my idle wheel and it has a much larger single single bearing.
I used some Anti cease after replacing the bearing on mine at the advice of WM. I'm hopeful it goes smoothly next time LOL...and I don't plan on taking an eye out next time either, so I'll let the machine shop take care of that...er the C-Clip :P
@barbender (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1286), on that idle side upgrade, I see you used a large single single bearing. I take it that's a double bearing?😉
Not much to write home about but today it was "find the insulation worn" ground (pulsing) wire that feeds the LubeMizer and repair the insulation. A bit of rerouting and couple of zip ties will prevent this from happening again. The pivoting motion of the engine when the auto clutch is engaged was the culprit that caused the problem.
So afterwards it was change the engine oil & filter and also both of the fuel filters. Fueled up, filled the blade box, and I should be ready for Monday.
My recent adventure manifested itself in a massive oil leak on the top end of my kohler 25hp engine.
I changed out the breather gasket
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/PXL_20230304_171906120.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678725461)
and the breather filter, and I think I fixed it.
I have been sorta riding the ole gal hard and putting her up wet and tomorrow's sawing job will be sawing some fairly large Oak log. Since I am off today I decided to make a quick blade guide check.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3721.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1678894257)
It was off about a 32nd so I let it ride. :)
It took a week for the idler wheel bearing to get here! Glad it isn't sawing season for me yet. Had to use a puller to get it off then the press at work to remove the bearing. I'll press the bearing in today and finish the mill maintenance tomorrow.
mh
Jarhead's video of changing the bearing is good. If you are not near a machine shop or a press, I will give you some general advice about press fit bearings and bushings.
On the clips spray with your favorite penetrating spray and tap it loose with a punch before the pliers.
Heat is your friend. Interference fits are usually only a thousandth or two. So using a little expansion and contraction goes a long way. Machine shops use dry ice. In this case use a torch and warm up the pulley around the bearing. A air chisel will almost always drive out the bushing or bearing. A good air chisel is better then a ten pound sledge hammer. If you do not have a blunt driver just grind a chisel flat. If you can not use an air chisel support the pulley on wood blocks and find a socket that fits the bearing and drive it with a large hammer. On installation warm up the pulley and put the bearing in the freezer. It should tap right in. Also in general you always have to have what you are driving well supported otherwise all the inertia is wasted. When driving bearing just find a socket or pipe that fits the inner or outer race well you can drive them fairly hard with no damage. And use lubrication.
Of course having the correct pullers, fixtures and a press is always best. But most of the time unavailable.
Another way to remove a stubborn bearing is to knock out the center race and bearings and weld a few short beads on the inner race. It will shrink it. Of course over the years I have used a cutting torch to cut them if they have just welded themselves together, like a wheel bearing on a spindle.
Replacing that idle wheel bearing does not call for any high strength measures. Three leg puller to get the wheel off and a simple press to slide the old bearing out and the new one in. Nothing is a tight fit.
I had the idle wheel bearing on LT40 pressed out once. The next time I did it myself on the workbench with a lot of tapping using Bluecreeper and a lathe turned block.
Re-installing, I waited for my wife to leave for the grocery store, then put the idle wheel into the oven for an hour at 270F. The new bearing had been in the freezer overnight. It dropped right in without any fuss. I recommend this procedure if you think you can get away with it. :D
I thought there may have been foul language not consumable by a fair lady. :o :o :o :)
A gas grill is an alternative for those of us who "can't get away with anything!" :D
I used a toaster oven past its prime but in the kitchen to do dry weight moisture calculations. went in a month later and it was gone. i asked my wife, and she gave it to a young girl at work cause "we did not use it anymore". should have takin it to my shop. :snowball:
I lost a treasured boxful of little mahogany pieces once, because I failed to keep up the kindling supply for the woodstove, and "someone" went foraging in my shop. I suppose I should be grateful for help keeping the fire going. ::)
Just a heads up on using the oven, an hour isnt long enough to clear the odors associated with roasted Bluecreeper, wood samples, or steamed white oak.
Not that it is the end of the world, but rather an otherwise unnecessary discussion of the "appropriate use of the kitchen". ::)
That idle bearing was not going to be "tapped " with a hammer shy of a twenty lb sledge. I had it in a 40 ton press with a lot of pressure on it before it moved. The new one going in was very easy.
The mill is ready except for repacking the wheel bearings. I have spent about an hour looking for my way cool bearing repacking tool. I may have to resort to the old fashioned hand method. :(
mh
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on March 17, 2023, 05:56:00 PM
Just a heads up on using the oven, an hour isnt long enough to clear the odors associated with roasted Bluecreeper, wood samples, or steamed white oak.
Not that it is the end of the world, but rather an otherwise unnecessary discussion of the "appropriate use of the kitchen". ::)
Sorry to read that you and your spouse did not see eye to eye on the matter.
It is my opinion that using a kitchen appliance to repair a piece of equipment that generates income that can be used for the purchase of sustenance is a proper use. My dad had a kitchen stove in the garage/shop for this purpose. Said stove also cooked thanksgiving turkeys so the kitchen oven could be used for cooking other items like maple syrup pies.
GAB
Moosehunter, I'm glad you got your bearings installed.
I kept a stove/oven in my previous school's shop. We used it to make omelets from the eggs our hens laid and prepare meals from garden vegetables as well as other foods for meetings and such. Someone kept turning in work orders and county workers kept showing up trying to put a hood over it. This probably happened after the fire inspector's walk through. I'd just leave it unplugged when it was not in use and then that was not a problem anymore. I told them to assume we were repairing it.
When I replaced the bearings on my old Powermatic 66 tablesaw several years ago, I put the bearings in the oven and the arbor shaft in the freezer. I marked the shaft prior to removing the original bearings. The new bearings slid right on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/0102131438.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1357499386)
I used to heat the soft aluminum housings on air drills and blow the steel Motors out. Only way to get them out without damage.
When older folks prolapse the rectums out, we sprinkle with sugar to shrink down the membrane so it will fit back in. no pics! :o :o :o
Doc, Ewwwah!
Doc, I am not sure how that relates to the subject at hand, but no matter. Is that really what you do? If so that just raised my medical training to a new level. Can't wait to try that out! Well, on second thought, I can wait. ;D Actually, a pretty long time in fact. :D
That's better than using a 3 jaw wheel puller, a freezer, an oven, and a hydraulic press. :o
Lynn, EWWWAAH!
:D :D :D :D
.
GAB, In your Maple Syrup Pie, what are the ingredients?
What thickens it? Maple Syrup seems a bit too runny to be used alone without some sort of filling thickener. . . Just a thought.
Actually, this sounds very good, with all the boiling going on earlier this month.
While living in Vermont and New Hampshire I learned to enjoy fresh hot maple syrup on freshly fallen snow. Makes the best original snow cone . The syrup must be taken directly off of the wood stove, to be best.
Are you allowed to send the pie recipe here?
thanks
.
Doc
Sugar-coated works there too? Who'da thunk.
Does it work better than smoke?
Only on the FF!
From anal prolapse treatments to maple syrup pie recipes in less than five posts - on a thread about sawmill maintenance! Love it.
😁
We're an eclectic and informational bunch, eh?
you have to reduce the prolapse before any smoke can be blown... Had one the other night. had been years since the last. usually kind of a chronic recurring problem usually for older ladies. the sugar pulls fluid that occurs as they often do not come right in. often just 5 inches, but in the old days had one that turned inside out for a about 18 inches. it took a while. Sorry I do not think I should post pics.
Sorry? No apology is needed, "butt" I am wondering why you even have pictures. :o
I believe that I do have pictures of the idle wheel bearing replacement. ;D
Doc, is that confectioner's or regular granulated sugar? You'll have to 'splain the procedure to me when I see you next month. As for the smoke, well, I think you are pulling our legs. It's fascinating what you can learn on the FF.
This thread seems to have veered off path a little so I'll do my best to bring it back!🤣
I was sawing some 16' pine boards yesterday and when I got to the end of one I heard a pop and the head dropped on one side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/20230318_152848.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1679227948)
Broken head lift cable. This is the second time that's happened, so there should be no excuse for not having a spare. But I don't, so I'm down until I get another set. I might try to find the same size cable at Lowes or home depot and see if I can make it work.
Compared to your finger, to me it seems small. Could it be up-sized?
It probably could. There's one on each side that runs through a series of pulleys as sort of a "gear reduction " or snatch block.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/20230318_152900~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1679229062)
To upsize the cable would mean changing out all the pulleys to a bigger size. That might be the direction I go in eventually, but for now I'm just going to get the same size to get back up and running. Looking at the broken end, rust seems to be a major contributing factor. I'll probably try spraying the cables with wd40 or atf on a regular basis to see if it helps.
Do they make a stainless steel cable that size. Just trying to think of alternatives.
Since rusting seems to be the problem, then up-sizing might lengthen the failure time it is still a problem. Soaking in something like Fluid Film might protect the cable interior.
Shed or protective cover?
I do not want to get into a "one ups-man-ship" with Magic. we all know he has pictures, and will show his own parts. :) I do not have a picture, but it tends to be imprinted on your brain, and I can still picture the stuff for years. I think LeeB added the smoke comment, I think something about blowing it, maybe in an updraft direction somewhere. :o It is true it works, and the nurses who were too young could not believe it either. Had to put enough packets in a coffee cup to be 1/3 full. I did not use the remaining sugar or cup, for coffee afterwards. :snowball: Pt walked out the door when we were done. I am not sure about you tube, but if you need to, I bet you can find a pic online.
I betcha that it was actually a case of "cloacal respiration". :P
There now don't try to "one up" me again. :D
Quote from: Magicman on March 19, 2023, 08:42:28 AM
Do they make a stainless steel cable that size. Just trying to think of alternatives.
Since rusting seems to be the problem, then up-sizing might lengthen the failure time it is still a problem. Soaking in something like Fluid Film might protect the cable interior.
Shed or protective cover?
I have a cover for the head. Shed is in the works. Stainless cable might do the trick. Thanks for the idea.
Doc, thanks for that and the idea. I did find photos and they weren't as bad as I thought. I have a better picture now. We can leave it at that.
MM to my knowledge there has never been a recorder instance of a human using cloacal respiration. Maybe there is some kind of human/turtle hybrid out there. In today's environment, who knows. :D
Patrick, just a thought: Steel cable hate running over pulleys and they can destroy themselves from the inside out. You are right, larger cable will be worse unless you increase pulley diameter. Perhaps looking for coated cable might be helpful? That might provide a little cushioning for the wire itself. I assume your scale or drive is not related to the cables. i.e. there is a separate measuring locating system independent of the cables? If so, the cable diameter has no effect. But if your measurement or adjusting system somehow counts turns on the cable spools, changing the wire diameter will likely mess al that up. I would think a light spray on grease would help your cables last longer than WD40 or ATF. I don't think they make swaged cable that small, but finding that may help also. Just some odd thoughts, but it sounds like you will be back up and running soon.
Patrick NC
What size is the cable that broke? diameter or gauge? length? any other info?
Per McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cable/attachment-type~plain/wire-rope-coating~uncoated/ultra-flexible-corrosion-resistant-wire-rope-for-lifting/?s=stainless+cable)
Maybe we can keep this thread on track :snowball: :snowball:
Quote from: Sod saw on March 18, 2023, 09:42:56 PM
GAB, In your Maple Syrup Pie, what are the ingredients?
What thickens it? Maple Syrup seems a bit too runny to be used alone without some sort of filling thickener. . . Just a thought.
Actually, this sounds very good, with all the boiling going on earlier this month.
While living in Vermont and New Hampshire I learned to enjoy fresh hot maple syrup on freshly fallen snow. Makes the best original snow cone . The syrup must be taken directly off of the wood stove, to be best.
Are you allowed to send the pie recipe here?
thanks
Since it was asked for in this thread I am replying here and not in the food section.
Maple Syrup Pie
1-1/2 cups of maple syrup*
1/2 cup of water
1/3 cup of flour
Place the flour in a bowl and slowly blend in the syrup, then add the water to the mixture.
Pour in a 9" pie crust***
Bake at 375°F for about 30 minutes**
Notes:
* Mom used grade B syrup
** Mom would sometimes use a lower temp and bake until the crust was the right color.
Syrup pies while cooking are notorious for overflowing. I suggest taking precautions.
*** The first time I would suggest a 10" to reduce chances of overflowing.
As an FYI my mom was the oldest of 8 and there were 8 of us, so recipies were frequently revised on the fly.
Concerning your comment: "While living in Vermont and New Hampshire I learned to enjoy fresh hot maple syrup on freshly fallen snow. Makes the best original snow cone . The syrup must be taken directly off of the wood stove, to be best."
What may mom and aunts would do at the sugarhouse, and at home on occasion, is take some syrup and boil it down further until when ladeled in strips on granular snow it would gel, then it was sugar on snow. Grab a fork and twirl sugar on snow on it then eat all you can then have a pickle or two and have some more sugar on snow. WDH always said to avoid yellow snow, but at the sugarhouse yellow snow was the norm when sugar on snow was involved.
Happy eating,
GAB
Quote from: Patrick NC on March 19, 2023, 08:16:50 AM
This thread seems to have veered off path a little so I'll do my best to bring it back!🤣
I was sawing some 16' pine boards yesterday and when I got to the end of one I heard a pop and the head dropped on one side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/20230318_152848.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1679227948)
Broken head lift cable. This is the second time that's happened, so there should be no excuse for not having a spare. But I don't, so I'm down until I get another set. I might try to find the same size cable at Lowes or home depot and see if I can make it work.
I used a cable clamp (u shaped threaded piece) to attach a commercial section of 7 x7 cable to the threaded adjusting rod. You want to use the same diameter cable so that one rotation of the height adjusting handle is still an inch. Thicker cable will change the ratio. Edit to add... mine is 3/32. I did find that my pulleys were not bearing centered.
can you adapt to a double cable system for strength but same diameter x 2.
Like many other things on the mill, why not give all cables, chains, slides, and any friction points a good wiping down with a rag sopped with ATF once in a while!
Quote from: doc henderson on March 18, 2023, 08:29:55 PMWhen older folks prolapse the rectums out, we sprinkle with sugar to shrink down the membrane so it will fit back in. [/quote SWEET.
We have done the same with hogs and cattle. When it does not work, you push all of the outsides back inside, get a volunteer to loan a finger and do a purse string stitch to try to keep everything inside. An alternative that we use sometimes it to use a bit of pipe and put a surgical tube on using a Calicrate bander to essentially amputate the outside parts. I have pictures but will refrain from posting unless there is interest in seeing them.
SS cable seems like a good choice to replace the broken cable on the Norwood.
I had a lift cable on my mill break twice in a relatively short period of time. After the second one broke in a short time I investigated further. I found that the bearing on one of my pulleys was bad so the pulley wasn't rotating. The cable was just being pulled around its radius. I replaced the pulley with one of a larger diameter and bigger bearing and so far no issues, but still not a lot of hours since I made the change so I'm gonna keep an eye on it in the future. I suggest watching the pulleys to make sure they actually rotate.
Might try upgrading to aircraft cable. Much more durable.
I was using my LT15 yesterday. i took a brief coffee break and when I went back.
I turned the Key and NOTHING.
SO I walked back to my house got my meter
12.7V at Battery
same at starter solenoid
same at solenoid coil
I used a pair of channel locks to jump the solenoid and it started. I need to get a starter solenoid next time I can.
I finished off the day doing that, I tend to shut things off as i roll logs on the mill, the last one was a 24" hickory.
Called norwood this morning and ordered new cables. Tech support said to try using a spray on lithium grease on the cables and pulleys. Since this has happened twice they said they would send an extra set of cables for free. They also are sending new pulleys and want me to let them know at the first sign of frayed cable.
Quote from: Magicman on February 23, 2023, 08:50:47 PM
It makes sense to be able to see the sight tube without removing a cover and the sticker showing what the level should be. This looks like something that was probably added to later sawmill revisions.
We can all learn something. :P
The WM manual says check the level at each blade change. I always bring out the flashlight on blade changes.
Oh yeah, watch your head when you stick it up to the hole. There is a wiring box right above when you lift your head and back up on mine mill.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Dan_Shade on February 24, 2023, 08:38:35 AM
Speaking of grease, do any of you have a method of removing broken press in grease fittings?
I have always used these drill extractors for broken zert fittings and screws or bolts. Just drill a hole and tap it in with a hammer, turn to the left and pull.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Drill_Extractor_Bulk_Stock.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1679364071)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Drill_Extractors_and_Bits.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1679364138)
Left hand drill bits are the bomb for removing screw in fittings.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Left_Hand_Drill_Bit.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1679363911)
Pictured is a #30, which is about 1/8th inch. I also keep 1/4 inch left hand bits on hand. At SWA, we had access to bulk stock of these stress relievers!
hugs, Brandi
Personally I think the spray on lithium grease should be illegal around a mill. I would use ATF in spite of Norwood's recommendation, the lithium grease will attract sawdust where the ATF won't. Woodmizer has us WM owners spraying ATF on basically everything that moves on our mills except maybe the drive belt😁
Does anyone have an easier way to get the retaining clip out?
On a Wood Mizer vertical clamp, piston.
Has anyone filed the grove down some to get the wire up on top of the shoot?
Got it.
Peter
thumbs-up
Any pics of how you did it?
I noticed that my power feed was a bit sluggish yesterday so this morning I took a look.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3803.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1679681819)
Never pull an end plate from a motor without marking them with a center punch or an awl.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3804.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1679681816)
The old brushes look a bit short.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3805.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1679682007)
Yup, short compared to new brushes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3806.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1679681811)
New brushes installed and I am ready to reattach the end plate.
I will not saw until April, but the sawmill is ready. ;D
Hi, my Hudson mill has a Briggs Vanguard 16 hp engine on it. Since it was new the idle RPM has always been high enough to keep the blade turning. The blade will stop if I touch a log, so the clutch isn't really engaged much. I would rather it didn't move at all when Im not sawing as that will increase blade life.
I did consult with Hudson and they advise that it should not turn so the idle speed is too high.
Well today I brought my mill into the shop to get it ready for the upcoming season and one of the things on my list is to adjust the idle speed down.
First I put a tac on it and found it's idling at 2100 RPM.
For the life of me, I can't see any of the typical adjustments like on most carbs. Doing some detective work on line I see that engine was made with either a Mikuni or a Nikki carb. Mine has the Nikki. While doing my own research I did find a few documents that reference an adjustment screw, but mine has none.
Has anyone else run into this? If so any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom
It's unusual these days, especially on a 16hp engine, but I've seen some that the idle adjust was accomplished by bending the stop tab on the throttle control plate. Just a thought. If there's no screw adjust, there must some type of adjustment.
Does the throttle cable connect to the carb or to the governor mechanism?
Fluidpower,I have a tiny tach on my 14hp kohler and it idles a little more than 2100 but the blade doesn't turn on my mill.High idle is 3600.I know you can change clutch springs to get different engagement rpm and being engine is either at idle or wide open for sawing maybe you could change springs.I don't think they are to expensive.Go cart shops seem to have the most clutch info.
Thanks for the info. The Briggs manual says mine should idle at either 1750 or 1200 depending on what type of cylinder heads it has. It has on occasion idled without the blade turning so its right on the edge. Just thought of something... I do have spray can of Comet clutch lube I use on the snowmobile. Maybe I'll try spraying it with some of that tomorrow.
Quote from: btulloh on March 29, 2023, 11:26:12 PM
It's unusual these days, especially on a 16hp engine, but I've seen some that the idle adjust was accomplished by bending the stop tab on the throttle control plate. Just a thought. If there's no screw adjust, there must some type of adjustment.
Does the throttle cable connect to the carb or to the governor mechanism?
The cable attaches to the governor mechanism. I did read about the tab but as far as I can tell, mine is not contacting the tab now, so that's not what's setting the low end.
Would be in the governor mechanism in that case. Maybe a spring jumped out it's hole. Check for anything obvious or find a diagram of the governor. Should be a reference doc on the manufacturer website.
The tab I read about is on the governor mechanism. The throttle plate on mine has a hard stop on the low end that's part of the carb casting. It's hitting that. The high side stop is a screw adjustment.
Here is a link to manuals, but need the engine numbers. There should be a schematic showing the idle set screw that I would think would be on the throttle linkage.
Operator's Manuals & Illustrated Parts Lists | Vanguard® Commercial Power (https://www.vanguardpower.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html)
Thank you for the link. Since the arm on the throttle butterfly is hitting the hard stop, it's closing as far as it can go, so I don't think there is anything in the linkage that will change that. I'm use to seeing 2 screws/ jets on the side of a carb. One for idle and one for high speed. This carb has no screw adjustments anywhere that I can see.
Is this a new problem? Could be a mixture thing. How does the spark plug look? That can tell you if it's running lean or rich? Any mixture adjustments on the carb? Can also be affected by slight gumming of internal jets or passage ways.
Is your engine possibly an electronic performance control engine?
If so check page 13 of this link for adjustment https://www.mudbuddy.com/manuals/vanguard/vanguard-repair-manual.pdf
The engine has 95 hrs on it and has always idled this way. No other issues and runs great.
I'll be looking at it more today.
Fluidpower, I have given you wrong information,sorry.Checked my mill today and engine idles at 1850,wide open at 3600 and blade starts to turn at 2350.
Thanks for the info guys. I was able to get it adjusted down. To adjust you do indeed have to bend some tabs that the governor springs attach to. There is a tab for both idle and max RPM. I ended up at 1450 for idle. That is low enough to keep the blade from turning. My max is 3400. I'm gonna leave it at that for now. If I want to bump it up a little later I at least know how to do it.
Thanks again!
I noticed my alternator was cockeyed on my last log of the job today. I tightened one bolt but U think another is missing. I finished the log and came home and will fix it this weekend. I can see some wear on the belt but I have a spare if I need to replace it.
Turned out this was a very easy repair. I printed a copy of the schematic from my manual and took with me. When I checked it against the actual condition of the mill I found there was no lost bolts and the only thing required was to rotate/straighten the alternator in the mounting bracket and tighten the two bolts securely. I like easy when it happens.
Easy is good. Rare but good!
mh
I did some minor repairs to my mill yesterday. First the reverse function on my power drive was wonky (That's a highly technical term) and the handle would be pushed so far down it would slip past the screw then work on the way up. That turned out to just be adjusting the drum switch. I tried slightly bending the individual fingers but the ticket was bending the cross bar up a little to make better connect. Seems to be working fine now.
While I was at it I had noticed the toggle switch for the on/off function on my debarker had shifted about 45 degrees. Still worked fine but just not straight up and down any more. That was a simple fix of rotating slightly into place and holding the switch on the inside with an 11/16" end wrench (or pliers would have worked) while I tightened the thin collar nut on the front with a 5/8" end wrench. While I was at it I tightened the in/out switch the same way. Those things aren't on any regular check list for service/checks but it is an easy fix and something I will check more often in the future.
Well, almost 10 weeks ago the boss was running his LT50 (against my better judgement) trying to knock out a quick order of 2x10's and he was blowing and going and on the gig back the transducer forgot where it was (AGAIN) and the head dropped. The debarker caught the log and bent the blade then the swing arm which holds the debarker motor broke clean off at the pivot pin. I mentioned this on the daily carnage thread around that time. Now I can give the full story. Due to the history of the machine and that very issue, WM was going to make good with warranty parts but as of this writing we are still waiting for them to figure, make, then send us the parts. Time is ticking we can't mess around any longer.
This is the mess I started with, the debarker is tied up on top of the main support arm.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230210_100524510_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676066257)
Maybe this is better:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230302_114947110_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1677803232)
After getting two incorrect replacement arms and still waiting for other/alternate/mating parts, we decided to take the busted one and machine a new pin about 2" longer, bore a clean straight hole through the arm, press fit the new pin in and weld it on the far side. This is exactly how the LT70 arm is made but I didn't realize that until we had ours rebuilt.
Here is just after welding:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230410_113542305.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681167340)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230410_113638657.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681167345)
3 arms For comparison:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230410_114509758.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681167354)
Starting on the Right and going R to L, the first one is an LT35 or 40 arm, the second is an LT70 arm, and the 3rd is Our repaired LT50 arm. the 70 and the 50 are nearly identical except for the diameters and steps on the pin.
Shown with the old pin:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230410_114444574.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681167348)
Once we made the new arm and it all fitted up well, the rest was easy. Just put it back together.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230410_125550379.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681167356)
Gee, that was easy! :D :D :D :D
10 weeks. We are pretty surprised and disappointed with WM, this isn't like them and they seem to have lost track of the debarker revisions (there are many) and as they don't mark their parts with revision letters, who knows what they have? We are still waiting for them to send the mating top bar for the LT70 arm, which was the latest solution they came up with. Next time I see these boys at a show or event, we are gonna do some talking. >:(
More than likely there will be a WM rep at the Project at Jake's. There were two last year.
Hmmmm.
Nice work -- has anyone changed from the older debarkers to the newer ones? Curious how much $$$ is cost and how difficult?
Thanks
Well you have a 40 and I am not sure if they ever changed that one. It's a robust design that is well established. I just learned this past weekend that the earlier 70's had a problem with that pin design and were breaking too frequently until they revised it to put the pin entirely through the tube and weld on both sides, that fixed it.
The 40's, 50's and 70's each have a different arm and there is also a different arm for the wide model in each size because they need to swing further.
I would say if it's not a problem on your mill, don't worry about it. If you accidently drop the head with the debarker in over the log and the weight of the head is carried by that arm, then you might have an issue. Just inspect it where the pin is welded to the swing arm. There is a head on the pin that is welded to the tube. You will see cracking on the inside corner of that head if there is an issue. But really, I wouldn't worry unless you crash it.
This is not a design flaw IMHO, it is a case I have seen many times where a design will handle normal use for the planned life of the machine without issue, BUT in the case of an abnormal condition will fail. Root cause analysis would bring this back to the transducer that loses it's way and sends the head down to the bottom of stoke without warning any place along the machines travel. All this is just my opinion, so take it with whatever value you put on it.
The older 40's the DEbarker spun to the rear -- in my videos you can see the bark and crap coming back at me all the time ;) however, they updated newer LT40's with the debarker on a mount like yours and spinning to the front...
I think this would be a nice to have upgrade after eating bark dust for 7 years :D
My old LT40 not only has a debarker that spins towards the rear, but it also only has a 1/2 hp motor so it doesn't have enough power to do much more than fire an occasional knot back into your face😬😂
When I started running the 50 it was throwing bark at me also and it was popping breakers like mad jamming itself into the log. I studied the geometry and realized it had to be turning in the wrong direction. I talked to WM and the guy said they had been through some revisions but had little idea what the latest was and I finally had to ask "So, can I change the rotation direction and get better results?" He basically said 'Knock yourself out' (I think he actually said 'yeah, I suppose'). SO I did and life got good. He never offered, or even mentioned the blade adaptor with the left hand thread for safety.
We also had an early issue with the swing motor which had no brake on it to hold it against the log. They replaced that under warranty after we complained about the problem but sent no revised wiring diagram for the extra brake wire so I had to 'figure it out'. Tech support didn't know.
Sorry, that's not much help, but it's all I know. Is there a chip shield on the 40? There is one on the 50 and it is on the 'away from the operator' side, which means it should throw chips AT that shield. This was another reason I had issues. If they designed it to send chips back at the operator, why did they put the shield on the opposite side?
IN my case the shield, such that it is, is indeed on the operator side (you can see it in my videos -- it's just a rubber sheet hanging down) however, it is not really long enough (I need to fix that) and gets bent out of the way when draging along a log.
I'm wondering now, from your post, if it isn't a polarity thing: switch polarity, add an adapter and turn blade over and away you go? Of course, ours swing in differently too.
Here's a video I put together on changing bits in a circle saw! I hope I use the right technique??? And hopefully someone can find it helpful down the road!!
Changing Saw Bits
How to Swap Sawmill Teeth | RM.66 | Changing Saw Bits - YouTube (https://youtu.be/o982oqc16fk)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3566.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682386524)
This finger on my power feed drum switch broke Thursday so I replaced the drum switch today with a new one. Real simple right - just unscrew the old screw, move the wire to the new one in the same spot and repeat till all are moved. Except when I did the switch would only work in reverse and no forward. I called WM tech support, did not communicate will with the first tech, he forwarded my call to the electrical guru and I just got Mike's voice mail. I called back and got hold of Andrew and we quickly determined I had reversed the #1 and #3 wires, Swapped them and all worked well the rest of the day.
My 35hp Kohler on my Lt 40 suddenly quit starting. If I put a squirt of gas or a small shot of starting fluid in intake it started and ran fine. Shut it off, wouldn't start again. Mind you I have to choke it every time I start it even on hot days. Long story short even though I was choking it with the manual linkage. It was not closing the valve inside, it was stuck. So it looked like I was choking it but in reality it wasn't. The linkage was spinning on the shaft. Once I unstuck it and shot a little w d forty on it problem solved. Had me perplexed for about a week.😁😁
The pin on one of my operator side feet/legs pulled off in my hand yesterday. I assume the little roll pin holding the spring has broken and should be and easy fix. Not a stopper it just doesn't automatically lip in the hole when jacking up that side as it did before. I guess the absolute worse case would be to replace that landing gear with an FAO which would not really be a bad thing either. I will see when I finish the current job.
It is just the split pin btwn the two washers. Probably rusted, broke or fell out. Cheap and easy fix .. good time to check and replace them all.
All of my outriggers had nails in them, but of course the FAO's solved that. :)
FAOs?
Fine adjust outriggers
Mark
Fine Adjust Outrigger. Got mine last fall. Awesome upgrade.
mh
My alternator squealed yesterday when I cranked up so this morning I pulled it off and headed to the alternator shop. The slip rings were deeply grooved, the brushes were worn short, and the bearings were a wreck. He said that it was "worn out" so I got a rebuild. He charged $80 and I gave him $100. It's back on the sawmill and happily putting out 14.6 volts. I have no idea how many hours were on that alternator but I had installed it in July, 2016, so it certainly had sawn close to if not over a million bf. ;D
When I got home I found a finishing nail that wanted the job in my landing gear pin and seems to be doing a good job. (And this was before I even saw MM's reply. That is just proof great minds think alike. ;))
While I am waiting for my hydraulic motor and brush kit I ordered Tuesday to ship from WM I decided to do a high tech repair on my mill cover. (Do not try this unless you have extensive experience and a well stocked tool kit. ::) At least if I never resume my sawing career I have the option of working as a seamstress. ;))
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3567.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682606951)
I had about a 6" tear in my WM nylon mill cover where the seams are separating. Apparently they were glued and sewed but over time they have started to open in spots. I bought this speed stitcher at a local Joann's Fabric shop my quilter wife frequents.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3571.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682607115)
It has a big wooden hollow handle that holds a bobbin with your thread (It came with a roll of heavy waxed cord/thread I am still using), a couple of needles that are held in place by the front ring, and a tack on the side to roll the cord on to keep it from unraveling. I still had a threaded needle so just pulled out a foot or so of thread to make my repair and tightened the needle down. The little metal clip at the end of the handle just holds the bobbin inside the handle until needed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3569.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682607313)
I turned the cover inside out so I could see/access the torn seam.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3570.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682607385)
I poked a hole through both sides of the seams an inch or so from the tear then pulled a foot of the tail through then pulled the needle through and pushed through again about 1/4" along the seam, This time when I pulled back an inch it made a loop in the thread between the eye and the shaft. I pushed the tail of the thread through there and pulled the needle back then pulled both ends to tighten my first stich. I repeated the whole length of the tear poking holes, making a loop, pulling the tail through the loop, tightening and repeating. I guess this is called a single stitch.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3572.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682607640)
About an inch or so past the end of the tear I snipped the cord from the needle side. This left the two tails as shown. I simply tied these in a couple of hard knots and my repairs are complete. I put the repaired cover back on the mill and put my sewing kit up till the next time.
If there was an old fashioned shoe and boot repair shop with a big sewing machine around home like where I grew up I'd likely have taken it to them to fix. My wife's big Bernina sewing machine would work but the big heavy cover would be hard for her to slide under the foot.
I have heard ::) if you crank the mill with a cover on in a minute or so you can burn a hole in the cover. Now, of course I can't actually verify such is the case but in the course of my sawing career I have discovered auto parts places sell spray on silicon that you can spray thickly on to a piece of scrap denium and glue on to this type nylon which makes a nice patch especially if you glue two pieces one from each side.
I have sewn mine many times over the years but don't believe that tale about not cranking the engine with the cover on. It will just swell up like a woman farting with panty hose on. :o
Quote from: Magicman on April 27, 2023, 12:23:29 PM
I have sewn mine many times over the years but don't believe that tale about not cranking the engine with the cover on. It will just swell up like a woman farting with panty hose on. :o
I spewed Coca cola all over my keyboard on that one, Lynn. That was a side tickler for sure.
hugs, Brandi
Same thing happens to anyone wearing coveralls, Magic😊
No pictures didn't happen
I can do without a picture of that. The mental picture is bad enough. lol
Surely didn't expect that one out of MM.
MM's description caused me to have a flashback to a project up in Ohio where I saw a large woman (Politically correct term for a big fat heifer - sorry if that offends any cows out there) wearing shiny silver sweat pants. From the rear it looked like someone juggling a bag full of bowling balls every time she took a step. I still wake up screaming after dreaming about it sometimes.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 27, 2023, 08:45:52 PM
MM's description caused me to have a flashback to a project up in Ohio where I saw a large woman (Politically correct term for a big fat heifer - sorry if that offends any cows out there) wearing shiny silver sweat pants. From the rear it looked like someone juggling a bag full of bowling balls every time she took a step. I still wake up screaming after dreaming about it sometimes.
Moooooooooo.
hugs, Brandi
does your wife know you still dream of this women? :snowball:
She is never certain which of the various terrifying events in my life that have occurred in some real sketchy regions of the world causes me to wake up screaming and crying sometimes. ::) :D :D
Quote from: Magicman on April 27, 2023, 12:23:29 PM
I have sewn mine many times over the years but don't believe that tale about not cranking the engine with the cover on. It will just swell up like a woman farting with panty hose on. :o
Lynn,
I find that to be a sexist and disrespectful comment! >:(
Why do you seem to assume only women are the ones wearing pantyhose? :D :D :D
No pictures as there was a little frustration.
I had to go to my 1st portable sawmill job this spring. 3 real nice Oak logs. Go to set up the mill and the head will not reverse....you guessed it drum switch broke a finger. I had replace this drum switch last year so I did not have a spare.
These logs need to get sawn and its just as much trouble to return as it is to drive to WM and get a new drum switch. Road trip.
Come back in 3 hrs change the drum switch set up the mill, new blade on and hit the Auto clutch , no movement. Call to WM and need my electric meter, which is sitting on the Work bench at the shop. 1st portable sawmill job of the year, always missing a few things. :)
Now I am spinning the auto clutch by hand as all this gentleman wants is 3" by 20" by 10' wood for his fancy work bench. I just left the blade running until it was time to change the blade. 3hrs of sawing and 4 blades.
What a day ::)
I liked your post in hopes it would help you feel better. ;) ;) ;)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3581.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1683064138)
My replacement motor for my hydraulic pump arrived today so I went out and installed it. I had previously removed the old pump. It went on pretty easy (Well, it did once I removed that plastic cover/plate on the end of the new motor that would not let the motor and pump mate up ::)). Once I had it in place I moved the head back so I'd have power to the bar and all the hydraulics seem to be working normally. I will move the mill and saw a couple of test logs tomorrow and if all works as planned/expected I will go do a mobile job for a repeat customer 75 miles away on Friday then resume a couple weeks work for my last customer who is 54 miles away.
I confess I did not replace the ground cord with the new one provided. The last one looks nearly brand new with rock solid factory connections. Also since I do not have a torque wrench I just tightened the nuts firmly.
One disappointment is that the nuts/bolts on this motor are 10mm (except the one to the power cord which is 1/2" ???). Everything else on my mill seems to be English/standard thread. I had to look through my assorted tools to find a 10 mm socket and it was 1/4" drive so I had to use an adapter. I'll pick up a 10 mm short and long socket to fit my 3/8" ratchet wrench the next time I see them (I.e Another flea market purchase in the offing).
My next task after checking this fixes my mill is to replace the brushes in the old motor. I had 1343 hours on this motor.
Thanks Dennis, :D
Update, WM sent me the troubleshooting pdf and I got my meter out. Tested the toggle
Switch and no power. Go to the breaker and sure enough a simple fix. Push on the connector that I couldn't see that I had knockoff while changing the drum switch. Nice when it's simple, only thing nicer would have been to see that when I was on the job.
Doing my 500 hour MX. My hydraulic filter says it is a FPC FPE30-10n.
This link here....... Catalogs (https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/InterchangeMultiSearch.aspx?q=FPE30-10N&o=me)
says a Wix is made by FPC and is #51551. Anybody else here using a Wix? Amazon has them in prime for $12.09 with a 3 day delivery. I figured this is way cheaper than WM price and their high dollar shipping.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Bindian on May 03, 2023, 12:54:44 AM
Doing my 500 hour MX. My hydraulic filter says it is a FPC FPE30-10n.
This link here....... Catalogs (https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/InterchangeMultiSearch.aspx?q=FPE30-10N&o=me)
says a Wix is made by FPC and is #51551. Anybody else here using a Wix? Amazon has them in prime for $12.09 with a 3 day delivery. I figured this is way cheaper than WM price and their high dollar shipping.
hugs, Brandi
Wix is one of the better filters out there.
I put that Wix filter on ours last week. It fit right and replaced a Zinga AE-10.
When I put a hyd. thumb on my excavator, I added a Zinga AE-10 filter to the return line, as I plumbed back to the tank via the tank check valve. Glad to know they are the same. I'll use the Wix next time on it too.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Magicman on April 25, 2023, 12:30:25 PMHe said that it was "worn out" so I got a rebuild. He charged $80 and I gave him $100. It's back on the sawmill and happily putting out 14.6 volts.
Well so much for the repair job. It did put out 14.6 volts at times so I ordered a brandy new one from Wood-Mizer which came today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3968~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1683151083)
I have no time nor patience with anything that doesn't work and this new one says that it is ready to go to work Monday morning.
I will take the rebuilt one back to the shop Friday. In his defense, he told me that the correct slip rings are not available so he had to make some shop modifications. Anyway, I have a new one on and the other can serve as a spare.
Sometimes-- most times, going cheep will bite you in the butt. :snowball: ;)
Brandi, I use that brand and number on my mill for years.
Getting me out of a jam @ $100 for a week's sawing @ $3800 I guess was worth it but still frustrating. Anyway, I feel certain that I am good to go now since that last new alternator @ $228 lasted over 6 years.
Quote from: doc henderson on May 03, 2023, 09:58:17 PM
Brandi, I use that brand and number on my mill for years.
smiley_blue_bounce
hugs, Brandi
I keep an extra one [alternator] in the shop.
I keep a lot of extra parts in the shop.
Lynn I put a alternator on my mill about a month ago that I had rebuilt at McComb Auto Electric and according to my digital volt meter it is putting out 15.2 amps and according to the dianostics on my mill it is putting out 15.1 (Never have had one put that much out) I had one on my mill that I had rebuilt probably at the same place you did and I had the same problem that you did. Would work off and on. It would quit and I would have to kill the engine and then crank back up. It might work and might not. If it didn't I would have to crank it again until it starting working. It did that from the day I put it on till the day I took it off. For several days sawing. I then had it rebuilt at McComb also and now have it as a spare. I always keep a spare because I have had to change my alternator many times over the years on my mill. One time I sawed on a Thursday and Friday on one job everything was fine then drove 2 1/2 hours the following Monday got set up and cranked up and alternator was not working at all. Was definitely glad for the spare one.
I have a spare alternator but since I was between jobs the simple thing to do was what I did. I'll carry this one back to him but he is closed tomorrow and I will probably be sawing every day next week. I will take it if I have a rain stoppage.
Since I now have a brandy new one on the sawmill the chances are very slim that I will saw long enough to ever have alternator issues again.
I drove by my job on Jackson-Liberty Road today and now there are 3-4 times as many logs there. Easily 60+ logs. The customer is waiting for school to end so he can get tailgunners.
Just a bit of information on the "rebuilt" alternator. The shop guy told me that he could not get the proper parts for that alternator and had to JBWeld a couple of wires across the rotor. The JBWeld held OK, but in so doing he dripped a small line of JB across the slip rings. That explained why the alternator did OK at idle speed but not at running speed. Apparently the line of JB was causing the brushes to skip. Anyway, removing that JB from the slip rings brought the alternator back to life. Now I have two spares. ::)
I've had old school rebuilders rebuild dc motors for me that had to use epoxy to make repairs. Those guys are getting few and far between, most just want to sell you a new motor.
Doing my 500 hour MX on the mill, I found a cracked sequence valve.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Woodmizer_Sequence_Valve.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683703357)
Easy to change with color coded tywraps on the hoses and fittings.
hugs, Brandi
Brandi,
I recently replaced a sequencing valve as well. Just beware they are very prone to cracking if overtightened, ask how I know :(.
Quote from: boonesyard on May 10, 2023, 10:45:12 AM
Brandi,
I recently replaced a sequencing valve as well. Just beware they are very prone to cracking if overtightened, ask how I know :(.
Well, they are aluminum. I had a drip and saw that it was leaking past the pipe threads, so I turned it alittle. Then it started spurting.
The design begs for vibration cracking with all that assembly unsupported.
hugs, Brandi
Houston, we I have a problem. Well I suppose that nothing is a problem if it is solved.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4030.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1684274012)
The flexible conduit broke at the fitting but...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4032.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1684374180)
For whatever reason I happen to have a spare but......
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4031.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1684274012)
I believe that I can loosen it up, remove the broken section, and reinsert the conduit into the old fitting and tighten it back up but.....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4033.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1684274012)
Not without ripping my arm open on those exposed Zip Tie cutoffs. :-X
Thanks for posting this. Mine is broken also.
How about Flex seal?
No need. After removing the broken off portion from the connector, it was a fairly simple matter to reinsert the conduit into the connector and tighten 'er up. A 15 minute job.
I doubt that FlexSeal would give the necessary support as the head travels up/down. I would replace the conduit before I would do a patch job, but I could see that taking several hours labeling, removing, and then reinserting the wiring into the new conduit and connecting.
I had the same thing happen to my mill a few years back and like you said, it was a rather quick repair!
Mine needs repaired as well🤷
Without the support of the conduit, I would think that the wiring is flexing at that point and more susceptible to bending/breaking.
I have never cut myself on one of the zipnties ragged edges, at my age I am into the thousounds. :embarassed:
I don't think/remember that I ever had until yesterday morning. Gotta take into consideration that I was lifting and pushing mighty hard forcing that conduit into the connector. Plus at nearly 80, my skin is not nearly as tough as it once was but I ain't givin' up nor backin' down. :-X
I would put a few layers of JB Weld on it and let r buck.
An issue hopefully solved.
OK, backstory. During the past month my sawmill Diesel engine has not wanted to "kick off" in the morning and sometime even after my lunch shutdown. It starts but sounds like it is only hitting on one cylinder for 5-10 seconds before it smooths out. It runs good and has good power after it "wakes up". The starting instructions says to "glow it" and I always have/do. I have changed both the primary and secondary filters a couple of times with no effect. I also have never gotten anything bad from the drain-able filter. The sawmill fuel tank was removed and cleaned although there was nothing bad there. The fuel cap vent is OK and there are no collapsed fuel lines and no indication of internal fuel line separation.
I talked with my Diesel shop and we discussed the lift pump so I started operating the manual primer to be sure that the system was purged. No change.
A couple of weeks ago I needed to refill my Diesel jugs. My station was out of Off Road so I filled the jugs with "Pump" Diesel. About the third day afterwards I noticed that my bad starting was seemingly fixed. Rest assured that I have been very aware of my engine starting since then and there has not been a single instance of the engine hesitating and not wanting to smooth out.
I went to my Diesel supplier this week and talked with the manager. She listened to my story and then told me that others had also been having fuel problems and that they had already closed the tank and would no longer be selling Off Road fuel.
I am almost afraid to celebrate but I am. For whatever reason.....Bad Fuel.
Around here, off-road fuel is higher than taxed fuel. I buy in 55 gallon drum and have had no issues with fuel. The price is not close either. I'm talking about $0.15 a gallon higher. Hope your issues are truly resolved MM.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3599.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1684888850)
My new H-Bridge came today. Only had to remove the wires from the 4 studs on the left and put them on in their new position, unplug the cable in the back and plug it into the new one and tighten 4 nuts on the back to hold the unit to the control panel. I did that, reconnected the battery and tried it out. Ooops - I guess I better hook the up/down motor back up so I did that and toggled the switch. Ooops again. I guess I better reverse the wires on the motor if I want down to lower the head and up to raise it. Those changes seemed to work.
After that I just buttoned up and everything seems to be working normally. I will saw a test log or two tomorrow see if everything is working as it is supposed to. I thought I would have to recalibrate the SimpleSet but does not seem to be the case. Also Chris at WM Tech support kept asking what the LEDs were doing on my old switch and I could not tell him because it did not have them. They are readily visible on this one.
Howard, Good job well done. I sure learned a lot about the wiring by researching it. Woodmizer really goes above and beyond in putting there manuals on line and also the techs working the phones with the customers.
At my age I will never own a woodmizer but it would be easy for me to enjoy maintaining one. Jack
Maybe someone can help me out with this one,..
The tail lights and marker lights are not working on my mill. Stop & turn are ok. The truck has a 30 amp fuse for the trailer running lights. That fuse is not blown. I have power at the truck plug. While testing the wires I noticed that the tail light wire is getting hot.
Seem odd that it is not blowing the fuse. To rule out the truck I hooked a battery to the trailer connector ground and tail with a 20amp circuit breaker. The 20 amp breaker kicks pretty quick.
I switched over to LEDs a few years ago so I unplugged those and the marker lights. Still trips the circuit breaker.
I've worked on thousands of automotive wiring problems in my career and don't ever remember a short that would blow a 20 amp but not a 30 unless it was a motor with too much draw.
Looks like I have to run a new tail light wire, that doesn't look like fun. A plumbing snake maybe? Anybody been- there- done- that?
mh
Put your clamp-on ammeter on the wire that is popping the 20 amp breaker and see how many amps are flowing. Obviously is is over 20 and less than 30.
I would open each of the side marker lights and see if you spot something. Depending upon how it is wired, you may have to pull to each marker light.
If the existing wire will move back and forth, use it as your pull wire for the new wire. While you are pulling, add at least one more "extra" wire.
We started sawing some cypress this morning and the Accuset II was off on the distance above the bed. Then, the hydraulics quit working. After recalibrating the Accuset II, a call to WM and a discussion with Gary let us know that the solenoid near the battery is to make the hydraulics dependent on the key switch. We had several spare solenoids that would have worked to replace the faulty one, but we decided to just bypass that one. We already have another battery wired in to allow the hydraulics to work all of the time.
We did not start on the first log until around 11 a.m., but we got some nice cypress sawn today.
Yes, in your application that solenoid is redundant anyway. My sawmill's previous owner had bypassed that (faulty) solenoid, but I quickly replaced it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2041.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1403049245)
i love sawing Cypress but as you know, it will clog the sawdust chute.
My last repair were the day before yesterday when sawing at a customer site and my mill would not go forward and was very hard to back up. I assumed it was a cam follower bearing on the bottom of the rail but when I talked to WM we verified that was okay. Then while waiting for WM electrical to call I contacted WM in Ga and Justin walked me through and we confirmed I had a bad drum switch. I had a spare and put it on and it worked fine yesterday. I knew the drum switch was not the problem because I had replaced it last month and only had 30 hours on the new one. ::) I had a spare and ordered another spare. I'll talk to WM Indy Tuesday and see if the old one was covered under any parts warranty.
My current pending repair is the little plastic piece the little aluminum rail slides in. The rail is a guard in front of the blade and roller guides and such. The ears broke off the plastic piece and now that end of the rail drops down. Should be an easy fix. Removing the rail (One little bolt) would work but it does serve a useful purpose. I will likely jury-rig something. Maybe a piece of grooved/slotted wood and just paint it orange. ;D
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on May 28, 2023, 09:26:41 AMwe confirmed I had a bad drum switch.
What can go "bad" with a drum switch? Contact break off or what? Just curious. smiley_headscratch
The middle finger on the bottom (Position #4) pulled free from the switch itself. The fingers appear to be just pressed into the body of the switch itself.
OK, defective from the supplier/manufacturer. :-X
My 97 had no hydraulic solenoid. If the head is on the contact strip, she's live.
That sounds the same as my LT35. No need to have the switch on to operate the hydraulics - just have the head on the power strip.
Wood-Mizer actually kinda had a 1997½ model to which many changes/improvements were made.
Howard maybe the drum switch had a problem with you, and thus Admin Edit! :o :o :o :snowball: :)
>:( think_not go_away spam_
Edit
Quote from: doc henderson on May 28, 2023, 05:52:46 PM
Howard maybe the drum switch had a problem with you, and thus Admin Edit! :o :o :o :snowball: :)
I second that Doc!
hugs, Brandi
Brandi,
Doc does not need any help being mean to me so you can share in my previous reply too. ::)
Magic, my mill is one of the late production '97 models. I think it is essentially identical to your '98, except mine still has the Mk l debarker. And apparently no solenoid for the hydraulics😊
I have a friend here that has one of the early 1997 units and there is much difference. He had an "extra still in the crate" turbo engine which I bought. I intend to reinstall that engine if/when the I ever get it back from the shop.
As a side note, Wood-Mizer has a used 100 hour 35hp Yanmar Diesel engine listed for $5500. LINK (https://www.usedsawmills.com/used-sawmills-for-sale) If I did not have two engines it would be mine.
Yep I think the first run 97 units were the same as the 96 models. Mine has the newer frame, etc.
I have a Kubota V1505 sitting under the bench for my mill, otherwise I'd be looking at that Yanmar really hard.
Honestly, I would go for a Kubota any day. 8)
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on May 29, 2023, 05:51:28 AM
Brandi,
Doc does not need any help being mean to me so you can share in my previous reply too. ::)
Howard,
When it comes to piling on, your the man! 8)
hugs, Brandi
As I have said before "The wounds will heal, but there will always be a scar." :(
We all love you, Howard. But we also know you can take it. hope to meet you next year at Jakes. then if you have any questions on how to trim legs on benches or how to not puncture all the way though the seat, I can help you out! :)
I'd love to meet you there too. We need to dispel all this doubt about about proper bench making techniques.
I don't remember if you caught it in the video when we trimmed the legs at Jakes he made everyone clear the area on the drive side of the mill when we actually trimmed the legs. I think he had people hunkering down under tables and behind heavy equipment and I'd swear I heard him yell "Fire in the hole" before the blade kissed the bench leg. Someone told me he had his wife looking for his liability insurance policy agent's phone number just in case. Of course when we sawed through the legs the cut-off pieces just rode on top of the blade or gently dropped safely off behind. (To his credit it is better to be safe than sorry. :D)
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on May 30, 2023, 08:43:05 AM
... We need to dispel all this doubt about about proper bench making techniques....
Doubt? There is no doubt. They all work, there are simply regional preferences based on scio-economic driven elements that affect the aesthetic features in benches made in different areas. Simple as that. All approaches have been proven to be safe and effective. But there is no doubt.
Tom,
I am not sure if that is a compliment or a back-handed slur on po white trash redneck bench making techniques. :D
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on May 30, 2023, 09:36:27 AM
Tom,
I am not sure if that is a compliment or a back-handed slur on po white trash redneck bench making techniques. :D
fiddle-smiley
hugs, Brandi
I'm not sure either.... about what you are implying. Let me try again, and I'll type this slower:
All techniques are good if they work and you like it. Simple as that. There is no single proper technique or style, IMHO.
Considering how many techniques we all 'acquire' from each other here, it surprises me a bit when somebody gets tweaked when others don't do it 'their way'. :D
Tom,
I never said anyone had to do it "my way". They can always just go ahead and do it wrong. :D
I think I am following along now. You are saying the a person could do it your way, my way, Doc's way, or their own new way and they would all be wrong. Yup, I got it now. :D
Actually, just for reference I think I have done it almost everyway now, except Doc's blind wedged tenons, which may be coming soon. I haven't had a failure in a while, so I'm due. Also I have indeed cut bench/stool legs off on the mill, just for the record. It's just not as convenient for me. So I am happy to do it the wrong way.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on May 30, 2023, 09:16:44 AM
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on May 30, 2023, 08:43:05 AM
... We need to dispel all this doubt about about proper bench making techniques....
Doubt? There is no doubt. They all work, there are simply regional preferences based on scio-economic driven elements that affect the aesthetic features in benches made in different areas. Simple as that. All approaches have been proven to be safe and effective. But there is no doubt.
Some people from different areas like different looking stuff, too.
BTW - when I called WM and notified them I had received a forward/reverse drum switch was that defective and had failed after 32 hours of operation they refunded my money/paid for the replacement spare I ordered. I could/would not ask for more than that. thumbs-up
Howard, I'm glad they did a refund. It shows that WM does do a lot of things properly.
I was having trouble at the timber frame job with the potentiometer. I was thinking it was a bearing at first, but I was able to set the dial and as long as I didn't try to turn it up it ran. It was a littler slower than I like to saw. I called and ordered a new one and it was delivered on Monday. I took it to the job site Tuesday and installed 1st thing. I have to say I was quite happy to see they are including installation instructions with re&re parts again. During Covid some parts arrived without the installation instructions.
I haven't ordered another one yet as they now cost $100 even plus tax. I'll wait until. the fall and order a spare. My backlog of sawing is only 2 weeks out. I always slow down in the summer and around the end of August it picks up until November.
Check your manual .. pretty sure you can tell if the speed control has failed (amongst other things) by observing the LEDs in the control box.
Quote from: NaySawyer on June 01, 2023, 08:58:04 PM
Check your manual .. pretty sure you can tell if the speed control has failed (amongst other things) by observing the LEDs in the control box.
I didn't know that. And when you are out in the middle of a field 60 miles from the shop I did my own troubleshooting. I had called WM but they were busy, Brian Called later and that's when I ordered the new part. Where about's in the manual will I find the led trouble shooting info?
Since I am presently off from sawing I did a bit more maintenance work:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4150.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686674082)
My Sawmill Operator's Seat was a bit weary so it got replaced.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4151~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686674086)
Removing the brackets from the old seat and
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4152~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686674094)
installing them on the new seat takes a bit of zig-zag but it's done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4157.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686674771)
So next it was installing the umbrella bracket onto the new seat.
I used the same "Nut Rivet" tool that I previously used when replacing the seat and umbrella bracket: LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=7789.msg637469#msg637469)
Next a new bright shiny seat needs a new bright shiny umbrella cover:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4153.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686674093)
I have tried various ways of making the sawmill hitch more visible i.e. painted fresh orange and orange reflective tape but I always seem to be zeroing in on a faded out white decal so:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4154.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686674101)
I installed white tape on the hitch. If the tape comes off, white paint will be next or maybe a strip of white reflective tape.
I am doing all of this sawmill prep work and meanwhile passing off sawing jobs. I hate passing off jobs but it's what I'll have to do to allow me to gradually reduce my sawing. I passed one off yesterday.
I may have to look at a seat soon but I'm holding out hope yet!
Nice work!
Simply stated, I would not saw without the Setworks, Operator's Seat, and Debarker.
Notice that I put the Operator's Seat ahead of the Debarker. ;D
I need to come visit so I can try it out :D 8) ;D
MM, is the reflective tape on the hitch to help you see it so you don't bump into it? We took our hitch off to avoid the shin smashing and to discourage theft. If we were portable, I'd probably still take it off but attach it with 5/8" hitch pins.
The new seat and umbrella look good. Last summer when I tore my left calf muscle, we installed the seat on our mill. The productivity went up quite a bit, but I was not able to help move material as much.
Gotta be some tough dude to pass off sawing jobs. you da man, MM
caveman
The hitch is just a learning lesson.. only takes once.
Similar to the toilet seat being left up... seems it only happens once and thereafter she remembers to first put it down. :snowball: ;D ;D
Quote from: caveman on June 13, 2023, 02:53:55 PMMM, is the reflective tape on the hitch to help you see it so you don't bump into it?
No, it is for alignment when I am backing/hitching up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_0760.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1465345567)
And:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0874.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1275608653)
I do not bump my shins on the hitch because I always use the fenders to build a corral around the hitch when I am sawing. That is also where I store my ATF Spray Bottle, etc. I have never removed my hitch.
Stephen1.. in my Safety, Setup, Operation and Maintenance Manual it is in section 4.4, Power Feed Circuit Troubleshooting. Good luck.
Do you just lean over to run the hydraulics? Or get off the seat and walk around the hitch? I need to see one of these in action!
I don't have to lean over much, just reach down and hydraulic controls are there.
Maybe I can get some pictures tomorrow.
Quote from: OlJarhead on June 14, 2023, 06:35:09 PMDo you just lean over to run the hydraulics?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4198~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1686868694)
Erik, I reach down to the hydraulic controls but I would not define it as much leaning. It's sorta like typing, I never have to look to determine which lever I have my hand on.
I like that. do you have a coffee cup holder also?
Would you get out of your seat sometimes for the hydraulics? Like when you do a special flip roll with clamp and claw?
Yes, I am almost always out of the seat when loading because I need the second hand to immediately raise the log camp when the log rolls onto the sawmill bed rails. Also any other time when I may need to operate two different hydraulic functions. Otherwise during normal sawing and turning, I am seated.
No sawdust flavored drink for me, but my water jug rides in the foot well so I can regularly get a sip.
Last week, I had a new blade on and a log on the mill. I started the Yanmar up and smelled burning rubber. I shut down and started removing shrouds around the larger alternator. The belt was trying to jump the pulley and was rubbing on the drive belt.
I adjusted the pulley and fired her up. Belt was behaving. But what caught my eye was the rear bearing on the stub shaft was barely turning while the mill was idling at 1480 rpm.
I pulled the bearing and found this on the stub shaft........
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Stub_Shaft_Slot_Wear.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687317354)
Yep, the shaft is wore down. I don't have time to track down a machine shop now to weld it up and turn it down, so I ordered a new bearing and stub shaft. Suppose to be here Friday. Hope it is as I need to be sawing again Monday.
When I changed the alternator belt about 100 hours ago, I must have not tightened the two set screws in the bearing into the shaft.
The bad thing is, I didn't catch it on my 50 hour inspection a few hours back. That is what is kicking my pants.
So Y'all with the Yanmar diesel, make sure you make sure the bearing is tight on the shaft and don't forget to grease it.
Anyone that has replaced a stub shaft, did Y'all check it for runout with a dial indicator? Reason I ask is Dennis in Tech support suggested I do that.
I asked around for a dial indicator and magnetic base between friends, but no one has one. For years I used them while working on flight controls. We only had so much wear allowed on the Boeing 737elevator trim tab bearings. Trouble is, I retired and don't have access to them now.
So I ordered a set off of Amazon. I was surprised at the price. Under $50
hugs, Brandi
they have a fairly good dial indicator and mag base at Harbor Freight. Pittsburgh brand.
Did you order a new pulley, that should be wore also. Steve
Quote from: ladylake on June 21, 2023, 04:36:37 AM
Did you order a new pulley, that should be wore also. Steve
Pulley for what?
Brandi
Just clarifying .. there are 3 wheels on a common shaft all held on with flanged split bushings. From back to front: the blade wheel .. the main bearing housing .. a double drive pulley and the brake drum/wheel. You are going to replace the common shaft .. are you changing both bearings and seals on the main bearing too. Getting the wheels off is half the battle. Good luck!
Quote from: Bindian on June 21, 2023, 06:26:22 PM
Quote from: ladylake on June 21, 2023, 04:36:37 AM
Did you order a new pulley, that should be wore also. Steve
Pulley for what?
Brandi
Maybe not a pully but whatever was on the shaft to wear it out should be shot. Steve
It is the Woodmizer stub shaft, bolted to the Yanmar flywheel, I am replacing. The stub shaft support bearing and support shroud.........
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Stub_Shaft_Bearing___Support.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687394575)
The bearing is getting replaced.
The split taper bushing and drive belt pulley and alternator drive pulley are forward of the wear caused by the bearing being mis aligned and/or set screws loose........
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Rear_End_Bearing___Support_Removed.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687395005)
All I have left to remove is the split bushing, the pulleys (or sheaves) and stub shaft. There are no wheels way up at the back of the Yanmar
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: ladylake on June 21, 2023, 08:34:13 PM
Quote from: Bindian on June 21, 2023, 06:26:22 PM
Quote from: ladylake on June 21, 2023, 04:36:37 AM
Did you order a new pulley, that should be wore also. Steve
Pulley for what?
Brandi
Maybe not a pully but whatever was on the shaft to wear it out should be shot. Steve
Please reread #260 to see where I already stated I ordered a stub shaft and bearing.
hugs, Brandi
Ahhh .. sorry .. up behind your deisel .. was thinking gas and the main drive shaft.
I started removing the stub shaft on my Yanmar today.
Every part I was worried about having trouble with, I didn't. Until I got to the flush bolts holding the stub shaft on. They take a 5mm allen wrench. I cleaned out the holes, but the bolts were rusted and I had to hammer the 5mm socket in. Since using a breaker bar just turns the engine, I broke out the 1/2 inch impact. First bolt, the 5mm rounded the shoulders in the head, not the allen wrench.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Woodmizer_Split_Bushing_Off.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687660259)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Woodmizer_Stub_Shaft_Rusted_BAD.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687660355)
So I am soaking the bolts and hopefully behind the stub shaft with Marvel Mystery Oil. Then I sprayed LPS1 around the heads and the edges of the stub shaft. Gonna wait overnight and try to break them free tomorrow. 8 bolts. I know at least 1 will need to have the head drilled off. I will be drilling a 1/4 inch hole with a left handed drill bit. Sometimes, between the heat of drilling and the left turning bit, the bolt backs out. I can hope for that.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Woodmizer_Stub_Shaft_Soaking_Bolts.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687660422)
hugs, Brandi
Bindian
If you haven't, then treat your arsenal and yourself with some Blue Creeper from LogRite (forum sponsors). With your extensive experience, I'd wager you will be impressed with the various usages of a fine penetrating oil.
Enjoying you taking us along on the fixing of the mill engine.
What I should have put on it is diesel. I might go out at midnight and spray it with diesel.
When I put drops of Marvel Mystery Oil on the top side of the flush bolt, it didn't run straight down, but ran around the curvature of the flush bolt head, so it was creeping in for sure.
hugs, Brandi
If they used locktite on those bolts make sure to heat them a little to get them out. Steve
What you're doing is way above my paygrade, so take this for what you paid for it.
I recently had a Crescent Wrench that was badly rusted up. The jaws wouldn't move. I tried PB Blaster for about a week, with no positive results. Then, I gambled and ordered a small bottle of Superzilla, which I'd seen advertised on TV. It took several more days, but the wrench is working fine, now. I can't say whether it was the Blaster, or the Zilla, or the combination, but it was able to soak into the rusted threads and loosen them up.
As Steve noted, you might want to try heating one in case they put perm. loctite on them.
No heat!!! .. especially on those socket hex head bolts .. it just takes the hardening out of the heads so that they round out even faster.
Imo .. all the space age magic penitrants are not much better than ATF. Yes you can watch 1000 vids of fluids releasing bolts but they only work because the bolt was not really seized.
It olny takes. around 500 degree of heat to soften up Loctite, that is not going to take the hardening out of the bolts. I've had bolts that wouldn't come loose with a lot of force, then heated them a little and came right out. They had Loctite on them. Most likely a propane torch would get them hot enough. Steve
Before I try heat I am gonna put that 5mm hex socket on my screw knocker Brown Aviation Tools TSK001 | "Screw Knocker 8"Old Man"-BATS (https://www.autotoolworld.com/Brown-Aviation-Tools-TSK001-Screw-Knocker-8Old-Man_p_129760.html?msclkid=4e57a314dca51f31e273c78ca9ae8623&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Auto%20Bing&utm_term=4585032215588289&utm_content=Ad%20group%20%231and) and use my 4x rivet gun. This way I can pound on it a little and use my arm to try to turn it without rounding it out.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Digger Don on June 25, 2023, 07:25:02 AM
What you're doing is way above my paygrade, so take this for what you paid for it.
I recently had a Crescent Wrench that was badly rusted up. The jaws wouldn't move. I tried PB Blaster for about a week, with no positive results. Then, I gambled and ordered a small bottle of Superzilla, which I'd seen advertised on TV. It took several more days, but the wrench is working fine, now. I can't say whether it was the Blaster, or the Zilla, or the combination, but it was able to soak into the rusted threads and loosen them up.
When I can soak it in a pan, I soak it in diesel for a couple of days. I already have diesel on had.
hugs, Brandi
Apply the heat around the bolts, not to them. The heat should transfer from the stub plate to the ring gear and may expand the metal around the bolts plus release the Loctite.
Lynn,
I gather you have removed this stub shaft a time or two. Will a propane torch be enough heat?
hugs, Brandi
No, I was just following logic.
My Lombardini engine does not have the crank support.
I was thinking you had another brand engine. But couldn't remember it was a Lombardini. Then I had a senior moment and thought you had a stub shaft on the Lombardini.
Now I know why you can have that engine out and in so fast.
hugs, Brandi
They still have a stub shaft, it's just not as long as the ones that have the bearing support.
Yup, I suppose that engineering a crank support for a 20+ year old engine would not be worthwhile. I have not read about any Lombardini cranks breaking anyway??
Doing my engine swap is about a 4 hour job and my guy charges ~$500. I will be glad when I get my turbo engine back and can do another swap. My fault because I was so busy last year that I waited (fooled around) for over 6 months before I hauled it to the shop.
A friend brought his torch over so I can heat the place up tomorrow.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: barbender on June 25, 2023, 08:11:22 PM
They still have a stub shaft, it's just not as long as the ones that have the bearing support.
You would think Woodmizer would have went with a shorter shaft just for the drive belt pulley and leave the rest of the over complicated engineering alone. They could have done that and hung the Woodmizer alternator in place of the Yanmar alternator.
But no..........they had to hang a 8-10 inch shaft off the butt of the engine and put the drive belt pulley hanging out in the breeze.
hugs, Brandi
Much of the engineering is/was built around which engines are/were available at the time and I suspect that many times was contrary to what they actually wanted to do.
So a shorter length engine would need a longer shaft to fit the existing design, I guess.
hugs, Brandi
The only engines that seem to have a crank breaking issue are Cat and they break in skid loaders with no side load. Steve
Engines can have crankshaft failures because of harmonic damper issues. The preferred type for a diesel is viscous (silicone filled) as opposed to o-ring. Dampers are designed/tuned to a certain frequency, when the rubber o-ring ages it can no longer cancel the critical frequency.
It's interesting to note (at least to me) that crankshafts actually see a torsional twist with each firing, the damper's job is to control the twisting.
OK - sorry I've gotten further in the weeds than most probably wanted... ::)
I got the torch going, this morning, and heated somewhat around the bolt heads. Then I decided I didn't like fire at the back of my high dollar engine, so I punted. I decided to drill the head off of the rounded bolt. The drilling was easy with Boelube on the drill bit. I popped the head off with a pin punch and decided I would drill all heads off. But I would try to remove the bolt with the 5mm hex socket and my 1/2 inch pneumatic impact gun first. Either I would remove the bolt, or I would round the corners off and make it easier to start a 1/4 inch drill bit in it. The second bolt rounded the corners, so I drilled it's head off. The next 5 bolts came out intact. The last bolt needed drilling and the stub shaft came off. The bolts had grey looking loc-tite on threads.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Woodmizer_Stub_Shaft_Removed.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687833607)
Then I over thunk it and removed the flywheel. I blame the heat. So I removed the pilot bearing 3 bolts and the 6 bolts holding the flywheel on.
I secured the flywheel to a board and screwed the board to my bench. Out comes the torch and I heated the three studs somewhat. I thought I was gonna need a lot of torque to remove them and on the engine it would spin around and around. So I benched it. Anyway, what really happened was after drilling the heads off of the bolts, all tension was removed. Why didn't I think about this with the flywheel on the engine? Oh yeah, the heat made me do it. The new 10 inch Vise Grip pliers I bought for this endeavor removed the bolts with one hand.
The flywheel out..........
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_With_Flywheel_Out.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687833989)
........and the flywheel on the bench.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Flywheel_Studs_Coming_Out.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1687834200)
It must weigh 40-50 pounds.
Tomorrow is install all new parts.
hugs, Brandi
Oh yeah, the Klutch (HF) 5mm socket I impacted the bolts out never rounded it's corners, but now the straight hex shaft is twisted. So I went and bought two more sets for $7.99 each to have new sockets to torque the bolts on with.
hugs, Brandi
I hate Allen head bolts in small diameters, they really like to round out.
Yep. That sucker should have a 5/16th hex head. The countersunk part of the head on the 5mm hex is .2 inches. The stub shaft is like 5/8th inch thick, so a bigger headed bolt would work.
But then it is the trade off with the Yanmar having m10 x 1.25 threads existing in 8 places.
But then again, they don't need to be flush, just counterbore for the protruding hex headed bolts into the thickness of the stub shaft. I mean, they are right at the edge of the stub shaft diameter. They could have even notched out for the bolt heads.
But then the Woodmizer engineers would be thinking about ease of repair and not their bottom line.
I guess that is what you get when you are sucking hind teat on engine options.
hugs, Brandi
I have been quiet the last couple of days because Woodmizer had a storm and area wide power failure yesterday and my favorite engine guru had storm damage at home. So he has been gone two days.
I had to move the stub shaft drive pulley back .15" from where it was before replacement, to align the alternator belt. Guess it was always off. That threw my lower drive pulley off over .070". I asked about the alignment Wednesday evening and the only thing I got from Woodmizer was an email, on Thursday morning, to check the engine mount pivot to see if it migrated and settled in.
So I was talking to Doug in parts this morning and he didn't have any ideas how to move the engine without a hoist. Bottom line was today I had to decide myself which part I was gonna move. I choose the lower drive pulley as I have done that before and my barn has only 2x4 truss, so no lifting to shift an engine.
The Mahindra is in the shop getting a head gasket replacement while I work on the mill.
The Lull blew a slave cylinder hose yesterday unloading logs and I needed a 1.25" crows foot to remove that line. A jumbo crows foot kit came early this morning via Amazon. But I gotta heat that fitting before I can remove it, as an 18 inch breaker bar and cheater pipe wouldn't budge it.
When it rains it pours. So tomorrow, before I work on the Woodmizer, I gotta pressure wash the Lull, before getting open flames around all that hyd. fluid!
hugs, Brandi
Takes a lot of patience and determination to keep the whole circus running.
Hang in there Brandi, come a time when you'll have a ten day stretch of no breakdowns and you won't know what to do with yourself.
😉
Quote from: Andries on June 30, 2023, 10:34:14 PM
Takes a lot of patience and determination to keep the whole circus running.
Hang in there Brandi, come a time when you'll have a ten day stretch of no breakdowns and you won't know what to do with yourself.
😉
Thanks for the pep talk, Andries. Yesterday I was kinda aimless, with Woodmizer wanting me to check out in left field, when I wanted to bunt. But my Grand daughter spent the afternoon and night with me, which made up for all that. I got a game plan to get it ironed out and running tomorrow. Well, at least the sawmill. My plan is to take the sawmill to the log pile, then roll logs to it with the excavator. Those big, long logs are just too much for my thumb to pick up without popping the relief valve. ::)
hgs, Brandi
Good luck to ya Bindian. Hope you will start gaining some ground tomorrow.
Quote from: Bindian on June 30, 2023, 11:55:55 PM
Quote from: Andries on June 30, 2023, 10:34:14 PM
Takes a lot of patience and determination to keep the whole circus running.
Hang in there Brandi, come a time when you'll have a ten day stretch of no breakdowns and you won't know what to do with yourself.
😉
Thanks for the pep talk, Andries. Yesterday I was kinda aimless, with Woodmizer wanting me to check out in left field, when I wanted to bunt. But my Grand daughter spent the afternoon and night with me, which made up for all that. I got a game plan to get it ironed out and running tomorrow. Well, at least the sawmill. My plan is to take the sawmill to the log pile, then roll logs to it with the excavator. Those big, long logs are just too much for my thumb to pick up without popping the relief valve. ::)
hgs, Brandi
Try and keep track of where your chainsaw is.
A second chainsaw incident similar to the last one, would put you in the slow learner club just like me.
GAB
Quote from: beenthere on July 01, 2023, 12:34:44 AM
Good luck to ya Bindian. Hope you will start gaining some ground tomorrow.
Seems to be continuing. My disabled friend, that lives at the back of my property, mows my grass to help with rent. He doesn't mow any bumpy areas. Cranked up the mower and heard the center blade bearings going out.
Then a sawmill customer and now rabbit customer, that was buying live rabbits, came by and paid me way extra to butcher two rabbits. I need them gone to wean a new batch of 7 month old rabbits from their Mom. So more time crunch pressure. Did I say it is HOT?
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: GAB on July 01, 2023, 10:35:29 AM
Quote from: Bindian on June 30, 2023, 11:55:55 PM
Quote from: Andries on June 30, 2023, 10:34:14 PM
Takes a lot of patience and determination to keep the whole circus running.
Hang in there Brandi, come a time when you'll have a ten day stretch of no breakdowns and you won't know what to do with yourself.
😉
Thanks for the pep talk, Andries. Yesterday I was kinda aimless, with Woodmizer wanting me to check out in left field, when I wanted to bunt. But my Grand daughter spent the afternoon and night with me, which made up for all that. I got a game plan to get it ironed out and running tomorrow. Well, at least the sawmill. My plan is to take the sawmill to the log pile, then roll logs to it with the excavator. Those big, long logs are just too much for my thumb to pick up without popping the relief valve. ::)
hgs, Brandi
Try and keep track of where your chainsaw is.
A second chainsaw incident similar to the last one, would put you in the slow learner club just like me.
GAB
My chainsaw is in the shop on a shelf. :D I am tracking it real well now. ::)
hugs, Brandi
Anyone know the Woodmizer torque setting for the lower drive pulley/brake drum (sheave) split bushing bolts on a HT40HD with a D35, D36, or D38 engine? Also it is the same on the HT30HD with the D35 and D36.
The bolts are 3/8-16.
hugs, Brandi
Hi Brandi did you find an answer?
I'm guessing the bolts are grade 5 and off a Fastenal chart I see between 19-31 ft lb for 3/8-16. I probably would put them at 25-30.
You could probably get a quick answer from DOttinger@woodmizer.com, he's the yanmar engine guy.
:D :D :D DOttinger (Dennis) is the guy that had storm damage at home and was out of office on Thursday and Friday.
I went with standard torque off of the internet. But not the first torque value I found. Fastenal had too wide a spread of torque values.
I looked up 4 or 5 charts and wrote the torque down and went with the most common. Seems lots of folks have different values. That is why I always as for the mfg. torque value.
Had to wait until yesterday to buy longer bolts for the support bearing flange holes. The new bearing is right at .12 inch thicker and the old bolts wouldn't start without removing the lock washers.
Yesterday was my son's day off, so He took me to an early supper and Indiana Jones movie, along with my daughter, for my birthday. So today is finish up and run the mill day!
hugs, Brandi
Saturday, I moved the lower drive pulley & sheave bushing back .10". The pink string was still not straight.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Drive_Belt_Pink_String__070_Gap.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1688490719)
So I moved the stub shaft split bushing and sheave back to were it was originally. It was a trade off between the two belts fully aligned. So the alternator belt is just a tad out of alignment now.
All I got left is to tension the drive belt and adjust the brake and install the longer bolts and torque the support bearing.
hugs, Brandi
Brandi, I'm not quite following what is preventing perfect alignment, but I know on my mill I can align them perfect. It won't take being out much on that big drive belt to cause issues, I don't think.
The drive belt is perfectly aligned. The alternator belt alignment is off a tad. That was the trade off.
But when it rains, it pours. I haven't made it out to the mill today.
I saw some white trash in the pond earlier.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Catfish_White_Trash.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1688513469)
Than when I went out to get it, I realized those were fish. So I moved the water pump, to pump water in front the small pond and let it splash into the big pond. But the fuel filter was cracked. Off to town for a filter. Got that replaced and the pump running. Water is splashing from about 1 and a half foot out of the pipe into the pond.
Then I had to get the wheelbarrow (tractor still in the shop) and the pitch fork and walk around and fork out about 15 or so, 5-6 pound Blue Catfish, and about 6 over a pound Bass. How did those get in there? And about 6 or 7 three pound Channel Cats. This wheelbarrow was about half full.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Catfish_Dead_in_Wheelbarrow.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1688513390)
The second wheelbarrow was about 3/4 full.
Luckily the excavator is still running, so I ripped a deep hole quickly and buried about 50-60 pounds of fish.
Now, I will go see the sawmill.
hugs, Brandi
Ok, so can you shift/shim your alternator to get it in alignment as well?
Thank goodness for a running hole digger!
Quote from: barbender on July 04, 2023, 08:17:34 PM
Ok, so can you shift/shim your alternator to get it in alignment as well?
Thank goodness for a running hole digger!
It can't be shimmed, at all, the way Woodmizer designed the mount.
hugs, Brandi
Ran the Yanmar and the sawmill today. Now, I have less vibration than I did before. Got her buttoned up and setup outside and got a log on it. Then the storm chased me inside.
Only way to shift the alternator is to enlarge the mounting bracket holes that bolts the tensioner and alternator to the engine.
hugs, Brandi
So .. Brandi .. assuming a missing or failed shaft key was the start of your issue .. did you figure out what started it all?
My mill had been put together with too long of a drive belt. Which had the brake band adjusted to the max from the factory. First time I removed the support bearing to change the drive belt around 200 hours, I did not loosen any set screws. I didn't look for set screws. The bearing slide right off of the stub shaft. The set screws were pointing down and I didn't look for any set screws. When I first noticed it, one set screw was missing and the other was backed out as shown...........
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Woodmizer_Support_Bearing.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1688746650)
So I figure it was these set screws were not tightened about initial assembly.
The stub shaft bolts to the flywheel. There is no runout tolerance listed by Woodmizer on the shaft after installation. So any
runout can cause problems over time. The simple fix is to look at the bearing, at the most, 50 hours. After sawing yesterday, I removed the 5 bolts and shroud and checked it. I had painted a white stripe on the end of the shaft and sides of the bearing near the set screws. So now, I can tell at a glance, if the bearing has spun on the shaft.
hugs, Brandi
Looks like that bearing doesn't have a keyway, sure should. I'd drill a shallow hole in the stub shaft where the setscrew hits it to keep it from turning.
Steve
.
Bindian, thanks for showing what you are up against. I've got the same mill from 2017. Learning alot.Thank you.
Quote from: ladylake on July 07, 2023, 01:18:46 PM
Looks like that bearing doesn't have a keyway, sure should. I'd drill a shallow hole in the stub shaft where the setscrew hits it to keep it from turning.
Steve
.
I am pretty sure it isn't that the setscrews didn't hold, but the set screws were never tightened when it left Woodmizer. Dennis, the engine guru never heard of a bearing spinning.
But he has seen every flush bolt broken holding the stub shaft to the flywheel when the flywheel threads were not drilled and threaded deep enough and the bolts bottomed out.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: CCCLLC on July 07, 2023, 03:32:31 PM
Bindian, thanks for showing what you are up against. I've got the same mill from 2017. Learning alot.Thank you.
That is why I posted. To inform :P and entertain. 8)
hugs, Brandi
Brandi,
I saw that wheelbarrow full of fish and thought you had posted in the wrong thread. :D Sorry to hear you lost the fish. I assume with the heat there was not enough O2 in the pond and your aeration system was not up to speed or failed at a critical time. Sorry to see the fish died. I hope everything is working well now and the rest of them continue to thrive.
Thanks Howard!
The sawmill is sawing, the telehandler is handling, the aerator is aerating. I was running the aerator 24/7 and one 102 degree day, it stopped. I found out it will shut off when too hot and then run when it cooled off.
So I bought a timer for it to give it a rest, and I guess I gave it too much off time. To put more O2 quickly into the pond, I pumped out the small pond and splashed it into the big pond. The next day I had channel cats hitting the fish food again.
hugs, Brandi
Last week, I sawed about 3 hours with no problems. Today, I made 5 cuts that were 4 foot long (4 foot 4x4s) and the alternator belt shredded. I put the mill back into the barn and I removed everything to get the new belt on.
But first I loosened the 4 bolts holding the alternator and tensioner mount. I pushed (engine) forward on the alternator and tightened it up. The mount moves a good amount, but only in a 7 inch radius arc from the center of the 4 bolts up to the alternator pulley. I was going to move the stub shaft sheave back .10", but I noticed the support bearing setscrew marks on the shaft were only .10" from the 45 degree shoulder at the end of the stub shaft.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Yanmar_Woodmizer_Stub_Shaft_Support_Bearing_Setscrew_Marks.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689046274)
So I moved the sheave back .05" and had perfect alignment for the alternator belt.
But I think part of the reason the belt came off was the remains of a mud dobber nest on the sheave ribs for the alternator belt.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Woodmizer_Alternator_Shreave_Muddobber_Ribs.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689046409)
It was hard and across all ribs. I had made 5 each 4 foot cuts today, after 3 days of not sawing, before the belt shredded. I had to get a 90 degree pick and pry the mud out, after spraying it with alcohol to get it soft.
Hey, I've had mud dobber nests have my DC-9 postal plane return to the cargo ramp after a rejected takeoff. The captain parked the plane and opened his sliding window and hollered down to me...........................no airspeed.
I grabbed a ladder and a swissel (coffee stir) stick and wiggled it into the mudded up pitot hole. Then, I made sure the pilots had turned the pitot heat off and put my lips on the pitot probe and sucked. They took off again and didn't return. Postal contracts were touchy about being late, so I did what was needed as fast as I could.
So if a mud dobber can stop an airliner from flying, it can throw a belt off. That's my story and I am sticking to it.
hugs, Brandi
I've seen mud daubers make it so a lowboy trailer not be able to move right when it was needed, and I had a situation the specifics of which escape me right now, caused by one. Just the way it goes some times🤷
I stopped using the 4L350, and started using a Dayco 17350 belt on the alternator.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=83229.0#msg1781275
I am running a Continental 4060450 6PK1145 alternator belt now. The Dayco 5060450 6P1145 I bought was a little too tight to get on. Gotta take that one back.
I changed my profile byline below, to make it easier for others watching to know that I run a Yanmar 35hp diesel on my LT40HD Wide.
hugs, Brandi
It's not mud daubers but I sure get a lot of spider webs on my mill. The heat keeps me from sawing in the afternoon so the next day I wind them up on a sticker. I don't recall ever having so much. On the engine, drive chain gearing, batteries, etc. Here's todays catch. Really not too bad of a problem but just thought I would post and ask if others see mor spiders.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/IMG_0698.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1690306522)
I use Ortho Home Defense, and spiders are not very common around here. This spray lasts on surfaces a long time, I've been told. Works good for me, and includes the wasp population building nests as well. Can't make a judgement for the yellow jackets, but have not had a problem with them for a long time.
Started using it to combat the Asian beetle problem and have side benefits as well as little beetle problem.
Lost my lcd screen on my simple set it would go in and out.
Ordered a new one from NY and installed it . It didn't work
Put the old one back on at least I could see it for half the day.
They are sending me a new one
OK it's been 44 years since I've done this!!! Wow! Even then it was only in shop class sooo... I broke it. It took working out the first brush before I remembered how to remove them or just figured it out and thought I remembered DOH! Push and pull not 'pry and break'. Feel like a smuck! lol :snowball:
OK here is the mess:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131400.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995757)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131538.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995757)
Worn? Yes seems so but maybe only have of what I thought they could wear too. Am I wrong?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131541.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995760)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131543.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995760)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131709.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995763)
I was tearing everything apart after breaking the brush mount/place/whatever on the first one before realizing what I did.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131546.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995764)
This is AFTER knocking out a ton of black soot -- normal?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131717.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995767)
See what I did there? Grrr
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131719.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995767)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/20230825_131723.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1692995770)
I am hopeful I can get the new 'thingy' that the brushes mount into and get it all back together but I'm also hoping I can clean up the body before putting the windings back in maybe with some brake cleaner? Thoughts?
Thanks!
Quote from: OlJarhead on August 25, 2023, 04:42:33 PMI am hopeful I can get the new 'thingy' that the brushes mount into
That is the "brush rack assembly". Your motor rebuild shop may have a supplier for individual components. Maybe not.
Here is a supplier for the motor and possibly whatever else: LINK (https://store.masondynamics.com/monarch-hydraulics-12-volt-dc-motor-08111/item/08111-s). I presently have two of those motors on my pumps and the two rebuilt ones as spare.
Here is the topic where I rebuilt mine: LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=119345.msg1913961#msg1913961)
Thanks MM!! As always you have been a huge help! :D
I need to bookmark your page in case I need to refer to it -- I've done that once or twice already.
Looking at yours and mine I'm thinking yes, my brushes were too worn. Is the carbon typical? What did you clean yours with?
Thanks!
Erik
My preferred product for motor cleaning is contact cleaner or electronics cleaner. About the same price as brake cleaner but probably better suited for cleaning electric components.
Some say brake cleaner won't hurt motors. Some use acetone.
Brushes are made of carbon so as they wear, the dust will accumulate.
I'm sure that I "hosed" mine down with "BrakeKleen". I have a can of electronics contact cleaner but it is more expensive. The Brake stuff generally has the volume to really get rid of whatever.
Hello Erik, I have a little experience with these motors for hydraulic pumps.
Here are some things that may help. Magicman and others may have addressed some questions but I will repeat.
- Two types of motors used. Iskra motor is what Erik has. The Iskra Motor has aluminum cover with a ground wire at end cap.
- Black Carbon dust is normal. You can clean with break clean, ultra sonic cleaner with dawn dish soap.
- These are normal maintenance repairs. 800 hour to clean and check. 1200+ you may need to replace the motor because the armature is worn. Some customers get less hours and some get much more.
- You should have the armature turned with lathe, you can get by with cleaning the brass area with emery cloth. If the surface is rough or worn ( Apple core) the brush will wear quickly or the motor will not work at all.
- Disassembly, On bearing end use two screw drivers and gently pry up. If the bearing is missing pull the back cover off gently. Some of these are really tight, you will or may break the plastic brush holder,
- WM does not have a part number for the brush holder, If you talk to the right tech at Indy they may be able to access some.
- There are bearings at each end of the armature. I have only seen a few bearings fail. The end cap has a wavy spring between bearing and aluminum cap, don't loose it! Install it and hold it in place with thick grease.
- After cleaning take a picture of how the brush wires and brush are located before removing the Phillips screws. The new screws that come with brushes are most times longer than original!
- Install the armature in the field housing, install brushes in housing with wires pointing as they were removed. install then push the brush in and over the armature, install screws to fields correctly. Install end cap with wavy spring. Locate the ground stud in cap end.
- The armature has a female end and the pump gear has a male end. You MUST get this lined up when installing back together. If you are not timed correctly you will damage the motor and or the pump. Do not tighten the long bolts until the motor touches the pump assembly.
- Side note: I always test the motor. If you get a new motor save the black bearing holder which is removed when assembly is installed. Install it and test with a battery or jump pack to verify the motor functions at the proper rpm.
- Hydraulic oil. Dextron III, or purchase the proper hydraulic oil from WM. WM sells a winter grade hyd oil which many owners use. It is very thin and helps with less motor wear. ( If by chance you put tractor hydraulic oil AW46 etc. in the system the hydraulic pump will run very slow, over heat and eventually damage the motor)
- Hope this helps.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4566~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693067146)
Several of you will know what this means. My experience is that this all needs replacing between 750M and 1MM bf of sawing because this is my third time to replace these power feed components. I ordered these during my last job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4569.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693066877)
The chain was stretched and twisted a full 90°.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4570~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693067278)
The sprockets and bearings looked bad.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4571.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693067363)
And they looked much worse after they were removed. The shaft bearing lost it's balls during my last 21 day job. I noticed that the drive chain gained much slack and the power feed started squawking and complaining. I tightened the chain a bit and kept sawing. The new parts came in so I knew that the ball was in my court.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4572~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693066864)
This looks much better.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4573.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693067920)
And works better than it looks.
As a side note and suggestion; sawdust and moisture accumulates on those two bolts that hold the power feed to the frame. I was able to get a socket on the one on the right but the left one was in bad shape. I finally had to grind the nut off. For the replacements, I used SS bolts and added 3 flat washers underneath the bolt heads to raise them above the inevitable sawdust accumulation.
I now have a happy power feed. :)
I recently made a comment about never washing/pressure washing my sawmill.
The fact is that my sawmill does not live at home nor does it even know where home is. I change the oil and do the routine service after a work day. My normal routine is when I finish a job I move the sawmill to the next location, set it up, and am ready for the next sawing.
Because of the daily temperatures, I quit sawing a week ago and do not plan to start back until it cools off. After replacing my power feed, I am doing a general service which included washing !!!! What...Washing ?? :o
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4578.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1693322242)
The sawmill probably thinks that it has been sold to someone else. ::)
I usually wash mine before and often after most mobile jobs as while hooked up its is easy to park by the faucet on the lot and give it a good hosing down. I also like to do that before each 50 hour service when possible.
You guys are also reminding me I need to replace my wooden damper block too .
Was going through left over LT 35 parts today. Here's a state of the art high tech Woodmizer damper block.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/IMG_1800.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1693350858)
Has that had a recent XRay Florescence certification Ted, to make sure it's still stable to install? ;D
Come on, Tom! Learn to live dangerously!
I stored this with left over and untested cedar and cherry!
However, I don't advocate jumping out of perfectly good aircraft.
Well I suppose everybody likes to have a little danger in their life to keep things exciting, like running with scissors, climbing ladders, or not tying their shoes.
My little Hun-son doesn't have such a block, and the LT50, as you know, has the dog point set screw for a damper.
Still, that's seems like pushing one's luck. :D
Got the new light and O2 sensor in (O2 sensor from Amazon for $37 vs the WM one for around $115 which I've asked them to cancel).
Of course, I then learned the code will remain in the system until it's cleared and you need an adapter and an ap to clear it. yay. Meanwhile, the new sensor 'may' be doing it's thing but I'm not convinced. The motor started very roughly and I didn't think it was even going to start! Then I hit the autoclutch to force-feed it fuel to see what would happen and it fired up at full tilt and belched some smoke.
I think proceeded to run it like I was milling with some autoclutch on, pause a while, off, on again and so on and it seemed to run better, idled for a while just fine and had a lot less smoke. I figure maybe just go mill at the cabin with it and see how it does.
Any thoughts?
I spent time today on "easy stuff". I went through the mill and engine and tightened every electrical connection that I could find. A couple tweaked but nothing loose.
Next was inside of the control box and the drum switches. My drum switches are 25 years old and the contacting surfaces are worn. The silver and copper plate is gone and I am down to steel on my forward/reverse contacts. The grease is to prevent this wear but in 25 years, stuff happens. Anyway I cleaned and greased them all and everything is working. If either of them show any indication of contact failure I will probably replace them both and be done with it.
None of the cam followers showed any significant wear and all rolled easily. The blade guides are spot on.
The temperature is forecast to be back into the mid-high 90°'s next week so I ain't sawing anyway.
When the up and down adjustments on the blade guide rollers strip out how do you prefer to fix them until you order another, tap out to 5/16" or weld a 1/4" nut on? Previously, I tapped one out to 5/16" but had to use two wrenches to do the blade alignment.
John and I have tomorrow off from our day jobs due to Idalia, so we are going to saw in the morning, and I'll probably do maintenance/chores in the afternoon while he drives to Tampa to retrieve his wife from TIA; she's been in Alaska.
Does not having a code affect how it will run?
Do you not have to clear the code?
Quote from: caveman on August 30, 2023, 08:08:02 PMWhen the up and down adjustments on the blade guide rollers strip out how do you prefer to fix them until you order another
? Never had one to strip out. Guess that I am wondering why it stripped? You said that it had happened before. smiley_headscratch
MM, generally, each day before sawing, we use the BGAT and ensure the blade is level. Often, it needs a little tweaking to be perfect. I think WM suggests it should be within 1/16" front to rear to be within spec. I guess I'm just particular and want it dead on. Anyway, while locking it down, now on the drive side, the top adjusting bolt has stripped. It still saws well but in the past when this happened, I tapped it out to fit a 5/16" bolt. I guess these are the ones you don't want to get "Monkey Tight".
I see folks complaining about sawing wavy lumber and I've sawn my share, but there are few things that minimize that phenomenon- Monkey Tight blade guide arm, 1/4" down pressure on the rollers, appropriately tensioned blade belt, properly set, tensioned and sharp blade without an abundance of pitch adhering to the teeth or body of the blade.
We'll be sawing heart pine that will be used for flooring in the morning. Our aim is to saw flat lumber. It seems that heart pine and live oak are two of the more challenging woods we saw, including hickory and pecan.
I don't know how much metal you have to work with but I would use a heli-coil insert. It will never strip out again.
There isn't enough metal for a Heli coil. I've stripped my fair share of them and have used both fixes that caveman mentioned. I actually prefer welding the nut on for the repair. Even the thin nuts will have more metal than the original and I can get it in grade 8. The grade probably changes as soon as I weld it on but it makes me feel better. ;D
Quote from: Stephen1 on August 30, 2023, 09:18:45 PM
Does not having a code affect how it will run?
Do you not have to clear the code?
According to James at WM in Woodvillage the code won't affect how it runs and won't be cleared until you use an adapter/attachment and code reader/ap to clear the codes. Fun.
I'll be running the mill next week at the cabin so we shall see!
Quote from: customsawyer on August 31, 2023, 06:46:40 AM
There isn't enough metal for a Heli coil. I've stripped my fair share of them and have used both fixes that caveman mentioned. I actually prefer welding the nut on for the repair. Even the thin nuts will have more metal than the original and I can get it in grade 8. The grade probably changes as soon as I weld it on but it makes me feel better. ;D
Jake:
Question: Do you take any precautionary steps, like maybe disconnecting the battery, prior to welding on the mill?
Gerald
I didn't on my older mill. Probably good advice on these newer fancy ones. Or you could just remove the entire bracket and then weld it.
Unhook the computer setworks for sure. Steve
On the Ponsse machines, there was a pre-welding procedure. You turned off the master switch, disconnected the engine computer, and then there was a grounding switch that was engaged. I think the grounding switch grounded the fuse panel, if you forgot it engaged there was a big 300 amp fuse that would cook when you turned the master switch back on😁 This is just an example of how managing welding on a a machine with a lot if complex electronics.
Throttle pin on my 62 cat engine has worn on the inside where bolt from throttle solenoid runs through the middle of big part of it and also the small pin that actually sticks into the throttle on the motor is worn near bout into.(can't see that part very well in the picture). So when the solenoid pulls the throttle into position it was a good bit shy of full throttle. Just something that had been a gradual thing happening and I had not realized how much slower my engine had been running compared to what it should have been. Solenoid not engaged in pictures. Got it adjusted and a new one on the way.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/28190/IMG_4398.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1694196031)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/28190/IMG_4399.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1694196059)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/28190/IMG_4400.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1694195996)
Good catch Craig.
I will try out all of the maintenance items that I have done next week with a bit of ERC sawing. I have not sawed since August 23rd. ;D
Having someone change my head gasket Monday. I still have the old style head gasket.
Lynn I haven't sawn since then either. Must be something in the water. 😂
I had an interesting thing happen a few weeks ago:
I've had a lot of problems with my alternator eating belts, I used a 17350 Belt most recently, not sure how many hours it lasted, but i'm guessing 25-30 or so...
But anyways, with all of the shields on and off over time, I lost a bolt for the alternator shield. I had a single bolt holding the guard on the bottom side of it. After finishing a cut, my blade did not disengage when I turned off the auto clutch switch. I first thought that the switch had failed in the "on" position. After troubleshooting for a bit, the alternator shield was getting hung up on the drive belt shield, not letting the engine set back down to disengage the belt....
I have a tendency to just patch up things "good enough" when on a jobsite, but never seem to have time to complete the repair properly after the fact. I suspect that I'm not alone, and this sort of thing gives old equipment a "quirky personality" that we tend to learn to address over time. After all, a leaky roof is only a problem when it's raining. :)
One of the other "quirks" on my mill is that the far end toe roller hydraulic lever doesn't properly actuate the microswitch that turns on the pump, so I have to pull two levers at a time to make it work.
Who is it that said "We'll keep going like we are until we can't go any further."?
Beavertooth, last year my idle adjust screw bracket cracked. It was hard to see but my idle kept getting lower and lower. I was on a job so I adjusted it up. Pretty soon it was way low again. Took putting on my reading glasses to see the crack. Got through that job and welded it up when I got home.
mh
Quote from: Dan_Shade on September 08, 2023, 04:59:50 PMOne of the other "quirks" on my mill is that the far end toe roller hydraulic lever doesn't properly actuate the microswitch that turns on the pump
I would think that you could tighten that rocker up a bit. (This should be the thing to do.)
You may could even move the microswitch slightly which could make it actuate/energize quicker. I realize that we are talking thousandths of an inch, but...
I'll adjust it next time I'm in the hydraulic box.
Dan
I was on a job last 2 days and yesterday the mill acted up sawing going forward. stalling and sticking.
first thing I did was open the drive cover, belt was a tad loose and full of sawdust. Cleaned it out adjusted the belt and bak to sawing. Too simple , still acting up as I had to play with the potentiometer and getting surges and then of course wavey cuts. I had just replaced it back in June at a cost of $100, a big jump from $35 I used to pay to replace it on the old 93 mill. So being frugal, I didn't order an extra replacement like I should have.
But I'm thinking yesterday, I have a spare in the kit, take the cover off to replace it and realize the one in my kit is really the old one and not a new one like I was hoping.
I called WM, Yes we some in stock, yes you missed shipping today, yes we can leave it out for you to drive over and pick it up. I also ordered another box of blades.
Cathy would you like to go for dinner tonight. Yes that would be nice Steve. I didn't tell it was 1.5 hr drive for dinner until we left. ;D ;D
We had a nice drive through the countryside and a very nice dinner.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4638~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694560853)
A guide roller stopped rolling this morning. I felt a sorta roughness when I put the blade on but it was turning freely. Freely, but not for long. It stopped turning before I finished the first log. That guide is only about a year old and was only slightly smaller than the new so I will replace the bearing and give it another chance when either needs replacing again.
I had that happen once, I tried to limp it through because I couldn't find my replacement bearing.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/PXL_20210525_012406851.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621905909)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/PXL_20210525_012256755.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1621905901)
I later found it on the dash in my pickup.
I have a few more new complete guides plus at least one replacement bearing kit.
If/when I need to get rid of some $$ before the end of the year, I stock up on whatever sawmill & farm parts that I think that I may need the next year. I try to pay myself instead of the tax man. ;D
My old throttle pin compared to the new one. Not hard to see why I wasn't getting full throttle. As I posted earlier I didn't realize it was wearing down and slowing my RPMS down. Did adjust it before I got the new one after I realized it was worn but it wasn't log from being broken into.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/28190/IMG_4456.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1695079380)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/28190/IMG_4457.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1695079376)
I'm a mechanical engineer by training. I wish I could have read a thread like this one when I was in school. It would have been super helpful to a) get a real world understanding of how things fail in the field and b) get a real world understanding of what makes a design easy to repair and maintain. In my machine design class, we had to do things like calculate what size bolt would be required for a certain load, but it was all abstract and without any consideration for what parts are readily available or what was required to actually build something and maintain it. I did show up to school with plenty of hands on experience, and have accumulated plenty more since, but there was for sure a disconnect between the theory in class and practical application.
Side story-
Last summer I was talking to the technician at the Ford dealer who was working on my truck. I mentioned that I used to be an engineer at Ford and he looked like he was going to kick me out of the shop, or maybe just kick me!
Thanks for all the helpful info in this thread and elsewhere on this forum.
Alecs,
My hat is off to you. In my 42 years as an aircraft mechanic and the last 28 years with Southwest Airlines, I have never heard an engineer state that. I can't remember how many times I had to drop the blueprints or just tell the engineer,.... .......I'll make it and you can test it and/or draw it. They just couldn't grasp how it needed to be designed for real world workings.
I guess nowadays, that doesn't happen with computer aided design with real sized mechanics with 3D motion, drawn into a given space (think under the floors in an airliner and in the avionics bays) to R&R a part or make repairs.
Again, my hat is off to you.
hugs, Brandi
Alecs, it takes a lot to admit that. I came up through the shop making stuff starting when I was 14 or so. I always looked at how things were made, went together, and could be repaired as the most important aspects of a design. It took me a lot of years (30) before I earned myself a place doing design work and I felt my responsibility was as much to the folks building and fixing the things I designed as it was to the end user.
Folks who go through school and right into design work are not taught to think that way and it is getting much worse.
I was also a 'Ford guy" for many decades until the designs got so bad. Vehicles with both metric and english fittings were the beginning of the end for me. But I bought my wife a ford Taurus at one point and it needed a thermostat. So one night after dinner I pulled it in the shop to do what I thought should be a 15 minutes job (including a beer). I wound up spending more than 4 hours replacing that thermostat after having to pull half the front equipment and part of the top end off the engine to get at the thermosatat. When I finally came in the house and my wife asked if I had got involved in something else, I just said "If I EVER run into a Ford 'Engineer' at a party, I don't care where we are, I am going to punch him right in the F@#$ing mouth, then I am going to whup up on him something fierce". So yeah, I think I know what that tech was thinking. :D
In the last 10 years of my career as a Manufacturing Engineer I had way too many 'discussions' with design engineers about why and how their designs were overly difficult to make, assemble, and maintain than was reasonable, all of which drove the cost way up. It was a daily occurrence and it wore me out.
Design work is a lot like writing a hit song. You first come up with the concept (message) you want to Convery, then you write a lot of words and verses, then you edit those verses and pick better words, you write the bridge. Then you edit, edit, edit until you have the message presented in the clearest way with the least words that are chosen exactly to present the message and set the right mood and tone. In design work, that 'editing' is often missed. It is the part of the process where parts are simplified and made so that the tolerances can be opened up, where the total number of parts is reduced and the cost of each individual part is reduced. The part where off the shelf sock parts are put in rather than something made special for 'your design alone'.
I see little elegance in the designs I come across these days. But it take a lot to impress me. ;D
Well put OGH! My best design work came when working under STCs (Suppemental Type Certificates) while working under my A&P license. Only my butt on the line. No engineer to worry with. But the draftsman still had to draw it, but after I made it!
Again, my hat is off to Alecs and now to You.
hugs, Brandi
To: alecs, Bindian, & OG;
One day I was looking at a fixture drawing I was working on trying to figure how to mount it to the machine. Another engineer seeing that I was staring at the drawing on the drafting board asked me what I doing. I told him I was trying to see if it could be mounted and used in the field. He replied don't worry about that,let the guys in the field figure it out. I ignored him. Fast forward a few weeks and the section manager told me that I designed the fixture, I oredered the tooling to go with it and that I was going to debug it. Off to Arizona I went to cut 20+" long keyways on 19° 58' surfaces in coal crushers. The first one took a week of double shifts, the last four took 8 to 12 hours each. Yes there was a steep learning curve. After doing the job I found out that some of upper management had said that it could not be done in the field, that the machines would need to be torn down and the parts sent to a machine shop for revision. Now you tell me. (As an FYI the shipping wt. of the fixture was one ton. Also there were some things I never thought of that reared their ugly heads that we had to deal with.)
I spent a lot of time at two other companies later being responsible for building prototypes and doing production support. I've seen a lot of poor designs that needed a lot of drawing revisions to manufacture a poor quality product.
Many times in Engineering you do what you can with the mess dealt not what you would like or what you know would be best.
GAB
GAB,
We would have worked great together back then!
hugs, Brandi
30+ years ago I was told by a Small BMW shop repairman I played golf with to buy a BMW off lease. I commented , a little too pricey for me for parts and such. His comment was that parts were more expensive but his labour was less expensive because the car was designed to be repaired so less time changing parts.
My Dad used to "go over" a new car or new piece of equipment with a handful of wrenches tightening stuff after a few hundred miles.
The LT50 has convinced me my Dad was a pretty smart guy. Actually, there's lots of other stuff besides.
After tracing down a "hunting" problem with the Accuset 2 that turned out to be a loose connection and todays issue, I probably should go over it with a handful of wrenches.
Yesterday, my customer pointed out a small spot on his driveway that appeared to be hydraulic oil under the command control unit.
Embarrassing and concerning, first that my customer noticed it and second that there was a leak at all on a new mill!
This afternoon I decided solving the mystery leak was my mission. I figured leaks almost never get better on their own so it needed relatively quick attention.
It took a little while to figure out what was leaking in the hydraulic control box. It turned out a plug with O ring gasket in one valve was loose. This is the rear toe board circuit. A 1/16 turn with an Allen wrench stopped the leak. It took removing 8 screws and 10 bolts to make that 1/16th turn.
It wasn't a bad leak as far as leaks go. A half dozen tablespoonfuls at most is all that leaked yesterday. But, with 18 hours on it, it shouldn't leak.
The small wrench is just a pointer to indicate the plug that was ever so slightly loose. Yet it was loose enough to allow a couple of drops of oil by with each cycle of the toe board.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/IMG_1917.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1696286521)
Seems each machine has it's quirks built in. Mine was built with a wrong drive belt and assembled to the max adjustment on the brake. Wonder what the hiring requirements is for assemblers?
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Bindian on October 02, 2023, 09:03:53 PMWonder what the hiring requirements is for assemblers?
hugs, Brandi
These days - A pulse!
GAB
A pulse. The same thing I learned from watching Hogan's Hero's when they talked about requirements for the Russian front.
hugs, Brandi
My Simple Set is messing up in down mode. I hit down and EO2 Magnet showed on the screen. I shut her down and put in auto and hit down again. Then EO2 Sensor EO3 Sensor showed up. When I got it to work, after blowing off the contactor at the sensor, it would go about a1/2 inch or 1 inch past the setting of 4 1/8.
What is going on or not going on? Had a 20 minute call in to WM, but the call drop when tech support pasted me off to an electrical guru. I called parts and asked to talk to Dennis or Doug. They were busy doing "other" work!
So I gotta wait to try WM again tomorrow.
I called WM. Dennis and Doug are still out of pocket. I talked to a Chris in electrical and he told me he didn't know if the up/down sensor led stays illuminated or not. According to the manual, the led only comes on when the up/down lever is moved and when the head is moving. I am waiting for a Mike to call me back.
When I turn the key on or start the engine, the up/down sensor led illuminates. Do I have a bad sensor?
I got my turbo engine back from the shop and installed on the sawmill before we went to Colorado but I have not had time to make the adjustments until today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4833.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699575784)
The first item was to check and adjust the auto clutch linkage so that the three pivot points were in alignment when the cam was TDC.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4834.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699575786)
Next, adjust the linkage so that the drive belt had 7/16" deflection @ 18 lbs of force. Then adjust the brake until there is the proper clearance on the turnbuckle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4835~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699576337)
Get the tachometer out and check the engine speed. This is a bit "hot" so I lengthened the throttle cable.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4836.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699576438)
I'll leave it right there.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4838.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699575796)
This tire has some separation so I'll put a used tire off of my 5th wheel on for my spare tomorrow. Gotta do a rim swap for the correct bolt pattern.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4839.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699575801)
That Turbo Engine is itching for a tryout but we have too many distractions for the next couple of weeks. I actually scheduled a 22 log job to begin the 17th next week until I realized that our Deer Season opens on the 18th. I called him back and told him that we would have to reschedule, so probably after Thanksgiving.
There is also a high idle adjustment on the engine iirc, Magic.
I think that engine might also be rated for 3200 rpm, Magic. There is a downloadable engine shop manual for these engines that is very good. It is titled LDW 502 but it contains all of the engines in that series.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/848345/Lombardini-Ldw-502.html#manual
Yes, I have the factory printed and bound shop, operator, and parts manuals for this engine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4837.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1699575796)
I overlooked adding this picture of the low and high speed screws. I have the throttle cable adjusted so that the high speed is about 1/16th of an inch from the adjustment screw. (which is factory sealed) It's at ~3200 when touching so this gives me a reliable visual. It just sounds better at ~2900. :)
I found a badly worn brass bushing on the clutch pivot yesterday which I will order today. I am also ordering a new drive belt so all of the adjustments that I made yesterday will have to be redone. At the time I thought that I would be sawing next week but no matter. Going through the adjustments is good for the brain.
Yesterday I was edging some boards and found I was 1/4" short on 1x10. It was because the arm was all the way in and deflected down. I check the wheels holding the arms and bottom right would turn by hand when I moved the arm in and not when I had the arm all the way out. I took the cover off the chain drive, found the big 1 1/8" socket and 15/16 wrench and turned the top right wheel down a smidgen and now 10" is 10" both with the arm out and in.
Quote from: Bindian on November 06, 2023, 10:29:28 PM
My Simple Set is messing up in down mode. I hit down and EO2 Magnet showed on the screen. I shut her down and put in auto and hit down again. Then EO2 Sensor EO3 Sensor showed up. When I got it to work, after blowing off the contactor at the sensor, it would go about a1/2 inch or 1 inch past the setting of 4 1/8.
What is going on or not going on? Had a 20 minute call in to WM, but the call drop when tech support pasted me off to an electrical guru. I called parts and asked to talk to Dennis or Doug. They were busy doing "other" work!
So I gotta wait to try WM again tomorrow.
I changed the up/down sensor today, along with the bracket. I didn't use the new end for the motor shaft. Everything seems to be working ok now. Before changing the sensor, I ran the head up to 20 inches and set the simple set on 4 inches. It worked fine. Then I cranked the Yanmar up and did gave me the EO error messages. So as of now, the new sensor fixed the error messages I was getting.
I am taking my mill apart to replace drive band wheel bearings. If I get a timely UPS delivery , I might be done today.
That is unusual to have to replace the drive band wheel bearings. Did the ATF leak out or ??
Just as information, the picture of the seal in my manual is shown backwards. If it is installed as shown, it will continually/gradually loose ATF.
That's what happened, MM. The site tube dry rotted, crumbled and the ATF drained out. Should be up and running the day after the parts are delivered.
OK, just be sure when you install the new seal that the flat side is on the outside.
I believe that @LeeB (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=46) just rebuilt that bearing assembly maybe this year. ??
I did but I can't say that I had any problem knowing which way to turn the seal. In my experience the cup always goes toward the pressure/fluid side.
Yup, my parts manual shows the seal the wrong way, but I also knew which way that it was supposed to go. Mine was installed backwards when I got my mill and I was continually having to refill. I have never had any bearing problem, just removed the bandwheel and correctly replaced the seal.
I seem to remember that you did not have any problem with tracking or anything after the bearing rebuild.
No problems with tracking after it was all back together. I had to take stuff off again a couple of times because I didn't do things in the right order due to not fully disassembling everything as I took it apart. I took some shortcuts.
Hopefully, I will be as successful as LeeB. Following the procedure posted by Crossroads. Pretty straightforward except I had to look up on the Forum the trick to get the band wheel off. I have the mill head blocked up and plan to add more supports. Not crazy about working under a suspended load.
Blocking may be fine
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_4859.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1700401075)
but I would also have it chained. That chain ain't moving.
I think you have a newer model than Lynn and I do. Little different procedure for yours.
I do the same thing MM. ;)
MM, Putting on a 1/2 inch chain on mine this morning. thanks.
I called WM yesterday about the parts delivery. I learned that my online order did not go through. The Woodmizer parts guy was very patient with me to recreate my order, including a box of double hards which were on sale and no cost shipping, which he included the no shipping cost to my parts.
No need to chain the saw head if you are just swapping out the main bearing assembly .. the two items are not connected and if it was you can just set it on the pin.
As for the blades .. last month they were 15% off and free shipping .. this month 20% off .. so l am waiting for next month . Lol
Very correct. The up/down has nothing to do with the blade drive. I responded because Sixacresand said that he was propping the head up.
I had mine chained because I was removing the up/down gear box.
I did remove the up down assembly, as per Forum Member Crossroads' procedure. It took about 10 minutes. It did give me room to work and rake out accumulated sawdust.
Most of what I cut his pine. When I got my mill I started with the basic water and soap with the drip lube system. Then added spindle lube and still had to use a squirt bottle of diesel at the end of some cuts. I changed of to diesel in my lube jug but just wasn't happy with the drip system for multiple reasons. So I upgraded to the lubemizer, I think I will like this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/IMG_5748.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1701533856)
While I had it in the shop I did some maintenance, oil change , grease , clean, etc. I had to adjust my drive belt tension ( first time ) , apparently the words in the book didn't click in my brain in the right order. So after getting the belt tension, brake and throttle way out of wack I got to learn my mill a little more intimate and understand how these are intended to work.😁 I believe it's all good now.
In time you will be one with the mill and know it inside and out. ;)
Let the force be with you.
Trimguy, how was it installing the lubemizer? It is on my list of upgrades considering all the pine I saw.
It wasn't bad at all, a couple of hours I guess. One of the steps was to remove the existing water lines, I left the one from the original valve to the blade guide arm. I cut the ends loose and fed the new line inside it. It will give it extra protection and it looked like it would be a pain the get it fed through the saw head.
For anyone that has made the 2 manual side supports hydraulic on your Woodmizer, do you have any regrets ??
@magicman comes to mind.
I mill a fair number of short logs, sourced from my son's tree service. I got tired of hiking back-and-forth adjusting the manual side supports so I ordered up the kit to have all four under hydraulic power. It worked out really well and didn't take too long. I still need to do a little bit of adjusting to get the tops of all the side supports to be exactly the same height.
No need to go polishing up the tops with a blade!
Hydraulics anything is better than manual!
I wish someone could come up with a separate circuit for those manual stops. Now that would be a major upgrade.
Quote from: trimguy on December 07, 2023, 11:53:53 AMFor anyone that has made the 2 manual side supports hydraulic on your Woodmizer, do you have any regrets ??
I should have done it sooner. ::)
Thank you gentlemen, I couldn't think of a downside.
I ordered my LT40 HD wide with the 4 side supports. Sometimes, while cutting 4 footers, I would like a 5 hyd side support.
I have two 3' sections of pipe that will slip over the "inside" side supports to assist with turning large odd shaped logs, etc.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_2264~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1652746543)
Shown here for illustration purposes.
Not exactly sure where I need to put this so I'll put it here.
Today my Lubmizer wasn't working on a 12 log white oak job. I'm thinking there was just enough ice to cause a blown fuse.
Instead of dragging out the manual, I did a quick search on the Forestry Forum. In 5 minutes I had the fuse swapped and the mill running in less than 10 minutes. The fuse in question is a 4 amp fuse in the Lubmizer control box.
Once again the Forestry Forum came to my rescue when I was in a bind.
Many many thanks to all the "usual suspects" who answered the questions of another Forumite who had a similar issue previously! Y'all saved my job today AND faster than reading the manual! I'm glad y'all are here!
Yeah, that 4 amp fuse is not where you would expect it. I keep trying to remember to stick a spare in the box but it always slips my mind :D. In the cold, those check valves are very sensitive to cold, two different pressure ratings also. I have spares on those at the mill now too. You can guess why.
That fuse drove me nuts the first time through. Would have thought they put (hid) it there?
Tom, that's the thread. It saved the bacon today!
Oh, I went looking and couldn't find it. Well there are none of us here that have not stood on someone else's shoulders a time to two. Especially me. I can't count how many times this forum has saved my bacon.
Quote from: SawyerTed on January 22, 2024, 07:38:53 PM
Not exactly sure where I need to put this so I'll put it here.
Today my Lubmizer wasn't working on a 12 log white oak job. I'm thinking there was just enough ice to cause a blown fuse.
Instead of dragging out the manual, I did a quick search on the Forestry Forum. In 5 minutes I had the fuse swapped and the mill running in less than 10 minutes. The fuse in question is a 4 amp fuse in the Lubmizer control box.
Once again the Forestry Forum came to my rescue when I was in a bind.
SawyerTed:
If I'm one of the "usual suspects" you're welcome.
As an FYI: the other fuse in that control box is a 2 amp.
In my sawmill toolbox I have some spare 2 & 4 amp fuses.
GAB
Many many thanks to all the "usual suspects" who answered the questions of another Forumite who had a similar issue previously! Y'all saved my job today AND faster than reading the manual! I'm glad y'all are here!
A few weeks ago I told about a Pine limb falling on my sawmill. It bent my umbrella staff etc. and also poked a hole in my Operator Seat. I had just replaced that seat a few months ago to the tune of $150+ so I was not happy.
Hopefully today's repairs will buy me some time. First I used some of that sticky back repair sheeting that I see advertised and then added a "Durafit" seat cover.
It said that 4 is the limit per post so here is the front of the finished repair job:
But I doubt that these 5 pockets on the seat back can/will stay. I am thinking they will collect rainwater and sawdust.
Try hanging a flap over it.
They are sewed on so removing them will be easy enough but for now I will wait and see. Heck I might want to put something in them.
Very glad the seat was empty. :-*
I had not previously noticed but the umbrella mast/pole was bent. It took some time hammering it straight enough to slide through the upright without egging it. I believe that I am good to go Thursday morning.
Put a grommet in the bottom of each pocket for water to drain, and sawdust to plug the holes!
There are still some glitches/tight spots with the umbrella staff. I kinda suspect that it will have to be replaced because every time it is bent/straightened the metal actually expands/swells a bit.
Sooo, I bit the bullet and ordered a new one but guess where from?? Out of all of the suppliers, Walmart had the best price plus free shipping. It will actually come from AgriSupply, but Walmart's price was cheaper than theirs. Anyway, it is a done deal. ;)
I am going to try something with Reply #418. I am hopeful that I can add text between the pictures so we shall see.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5115.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352179)
First I reinforced the holes in my seat with some of that sticky back repair stuff.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5116.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352174)
I poked a couple of holes in the seat cover back so that I could attach the umbrella bracket.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5119~0.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352175)
I do not know yet what I will do with these 5 pockets. They may collect rainwater and sawdust so I may remove them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5117~0.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352173)
The seat with it's newly installed seatcover. I hope that it is successful to keep me from having to replace the less than a year old seat.
I am also hoping that this reply with the text between the pictures is successful.
My umbrella shaft/pole straightening was not a success so:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5134.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352215)
The bent shaft and the badly compromised swivel joint.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5133.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352214)
The new umbrella hardware shown on top, so I am back as good as new....heck it is new. ;)
The debarker on my LT35 HD is cutting about 3/8 inch too high relative to the blade. It was in the 40"s today so cleaned up the mill and sawed a 8x12 oak beam. I have not used the debarker in a while but this log had some dirt so turned it on. I lowered it a bit from the original setting once before but now with the slotted mount holes all the way down it is still high. What could cause this and what else needs adjustment that I do not see?
I know nothing about an LT35 but check to be sure that the debarker is not tilted. It has to be absolutely level with the sawmill bed. Tilt can cause the debarker to rise or lower as it swings in and out.
MM I went out and looked again. I think you are right. Besides the slotted holes allowing the debarker to be moved up and down it looks like the support arm has slotted holes where it bolts to the head. This would pivot the debarker. I will play with it when it is warmer.
Good, I hope that you are successful. ;)
This probably belongs in the "Dumb" topic, but that ain't the way it started. I sawed yesterday and noticed that my drive wheel brake needed tightening a bit. It was not bad and well within specs, but since I will have a full day of sawing tomorrow and Saturday and am off today, so git-er-done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5165.JPG)
The brake adjustment was easy and went well but when I noticed the turnbuckle I remembered that when I last did my drive belt adjustment I could not find my 11/16" wrench that fits the jam nut on top. I looked again this morning but it still was a no-show.
Off to the store I went and of course one individual wrench was not available so I bought the set that had not only the 11/16 but also all of the other sizes that I did not need. Got back to the sawmill, removed the 11/16 and proceeded to put it where it should be. Yup, there was my 11/16. Now back to the store to return the set that I did not need anyway. She asked "what was wrong with them", "nothing" I said, then "why are you returning them" she asked? Now I had to admit there in the store how dumb I was. :-\
Anyway, the brake is adjusted and I still have an 11/16 wrench. ;) :thumbsup:
I am always needing a 15/16ths. should buy a few extras. HF does sell some individual wrenches and sockets for that one item you want to leave a wrench with.
That is where I went and they did not offer individual combination wrenches. Anyway, an individual wrench probably would be more than an entire set.
My "lost" 11/16 is a probably 20+ year old Stanley so there is not much doubt about it's quality. I just need for it to stay home. ;)
Auto parts stores like my local Carquest and NAPA have open stock wrenches at reasonable prices. So does Home Depot.
Yeah, I went to what was closest but no matter, didn't need it anyway.
Rain is knocking out my sawing for Fri & Sat.
northern tool
Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company and Tractor Supply (TSC) have individual combo wrenches also.
But each time I try TSC, the size I want is out of stock.
So sorry. I can't get the link to work.
That's because Jeff put it into the software to not work. Northern committed some pretty low down business practices against one of our sponsors years back, and Jeff is seeing to it that they never get any traffic from this site. I'm sure they've lost out on far more business over the years from that than anything they gained in the short term with their shady actions.
Quote from: barbender on February 08, 2024, 10:46:39 PMThat's because Jeff put it into the software to not work. Northern committed some pretty low down business practices against one of our sponsors years back, and Jeff is seeing to it that they never get any traffic from this site. I'm sure they've lost out on far more business over the years from that than anything they gained in the short term with their shady actions.
Thanks for the headsup. I did a quick search and saw the link in other threads, but they didn't work either.
I may get chastised (again) for this suggestion but I buy odd wrenches and sockets at our local flea markets. There are always people there with a box of assorted ones and some are Craftsmen or other name brands.
Nothing wrong with the suggestion but when you need a specific wrench and there ain't a flea market handy you hafta do what you hafta do.
Exactly Lynn. I have bought full sets of impact sockets just to get one specific socket. Also allen wrench sockets for the flush bolts holding the stub shaft on the Yanmar. I bought 3 sets cause I didn't wanna round the shoulders off and have to make another trip to town.
When I worked on 727 freighters, I would scour the local pond shops, that had lots of hand tools, for 25/32 sockets in 1/2 drive 12 point. I still have 3 or 4 of these sockets. The brakes on the 727 are secured with nuts that size. Weird, as the bolt heads were a different size. We used impacts to remove the nuts and would crack lots of sockets. You would hand start the nuts on the end of your finger. Lots of fun when the brakes were hot.
Debarker parts diagram shows the mounting holes to be slotted. Using the blade alignment tool it was easy to realign the debarker blade with the band. It took a very little tap to adjust the swivel of the arm to make the debarker line up with the band. Actually had to raise the debarker back up even with a slight tap of the mounting bolts. Somewhere along the way I must have banged the arm, maybe with a log. I do not think pressure against a log while sawing could be enough to make it move.
I never thought of using the BAG to align the debarker, that's a great tip! Thanks.
I have hit my down lever before the debarker had completely cleared the log which set the debarker blade down on the log. My debarker arm is spring loaded to reduce the load on the debarker but it still has to exert some unplanned pressure. Yes, stuff happens.
I am glad to read that you squared everything up and this could possible help someone else with their debarker tracking.
Tom, BGAT. ffsmiley
Sorry Boss, I got it now. It didn't feel right when I typed it, but I was distracted by an email I was writing at the time. I won't make that mistake again....unless I do. ffcheesy
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3893.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352442)
Trick of the trade. Ever need a short wrench to get in a tight place?
Have something that needs frequent adjustment? Cut the end off a wrench, drill a hole for a thong, and hang next to the thing that needs frequent tweaking. Ever need to quickly size a tenon on the wood lathe? A sharpened open end wrench does it fast.
I buy em all at auctions and flea markets when they are cheap. I can't remember loosing a wrench, but if I did there are 4 or 5 backups in my junk drawer.
Some fellow with the handle of Yellow something says "Take steps to save steps". Being exceptionally lazy, I follow that advice.
You can never have enough wrenches, you jut cant. I can't imagine how folks keep track of 'sets' and get a little lost when one is missing. Over my 50 years I have accumulated more combination wrenches than I know what to do with. Yes, I have sets all over the place, but they get moved around and lost, dropped inside machines to never be seen again by a human, or whatever. I gave up trying to maintain sets decades ago. Now I just have some nails in the shop wall that I hang on them by size.
IMG_20240211_160438535.jpg
It's kind of like the penny dish by the cash register "Have a wrench? leave a wrench. Need a wrench? take a wrench." I do need longer nails on most sizes and more nails for the odd sizes and I still have a 15 pound box of wrenches I don't have room to hang. I have little idea where they all came form but I got 'em. So if I need 'set, I just go down the line and grab one of each. ffsmiley
"Cut the end off a wrench, drill a hole for a thong, and hang next to the thing that needs frequent tweaking."
Larry, what color of underwear do you recommend for hanging these wrenches? ffcool ffcheesy
Don't Google that!
Gee, I dunno. The google results were kind of interesting. ffcheesy
As an avid tool collector but also saving time and steps, I have bought tools I already have to keep in certain areas. These tools are for the sawmill only, these tools are for the tractor garage only, garden box area only, truck set. You can use a lot of time tromping around buildings on an acre or two. And if you forget something?
I am also in the buy two of everything camp. Lending, losing(my wife is an expert at that), breaking tools can really hold things up.
If I remember, I will go to my shop and tool box and make a list of the tools that I need, went missing etc. Another thing I try to do is keep a list of the tools I always feel/think I need to get but already have 10 of, like needle nose vise grips, etc. I email that list between two accounts that I have and its then on my phone while shopping.
Maybe I should go for color coded thongs on these things so I know where they go.
color code for metric vs sae.
@Larry, for things like pliers and vice grips, can the thong just go in the crack? ffsmiley can be used to store nuts and bolts?
Quote from: Larry on February 13, 2024, 09:20:38 PMCut the end off a wrench, drill a hole for a thong
I am still looking for dat lost thong. ffcheesy
Quote from: doc henderson on February 14, 2024, 08:12:10 AMcan the thong just go in the crack?
ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Larry, using "thong" with a wrench gave me a mental image I didn't like 😬😂
Quote from: doc henderson on February 14, 2024, 08:12:10 AMcolor code for metric vs sae. @Larry, for things like pliers and vice grips, can the thong just go in the crack? ffsmiley can be used to store nuts and bolts?
I put red paint on the side of my metric sockets, opposite of the size marking.
Quote from: barbender on February 14, 2024, 09:26:01 AMLarry, using "thong" with a wrench gave me a mental image I didn't like 😬😂
Like spandex sawyer... :huh?
My SAE are sprayed with Red paint. The Metric are sprayed with Gold.
I'm impressed that you guys liked my thong idea! ffcheesy Doc, I like the bright colors for my thongs. ffcool
ffcool ffsmiley ffsmiley ffsmiley
The Simple Set display on my mill has been dim for months. I have searched a few key words on the forum , but have not found much info about the display. Probably because I have not used the correct key words. And I have not contacted WM. Has anyone worked on or replaced one?
Here are a couple of things to try that I found on the forum:
QuoteMikeON
**
Full Member
Posts: 98
Location: Lucinda PA
Logged
#10
March 29, 2016, 07:10:09 AM
With my 1998 LT40 Super with Simple Setworks, I have a similar problem about once a year. I have to open the setworks box and remove the ribbon cable connected to the display, spray the connections with contact cleaner, and re-assemble.
QuoteOhio_Bill
****
Senior Member
Posts: 703
Wood is Good
Location: Little Hocking Ohio
Logged
#9
March 28, 2016, 12:09:35 AM
My mill is a 2001 accuset 2. Not sure if the same or not. When first powered on shows splash screen for a few seconds. While that splash screen is on press up or Down to adjust contrast.
My Glow Plug Relay failed a couple of times yesterday, so Monday morning I will do some investigation.
My full time voltmeter clued me because the voltage did not make the normal drop when it was supposed to be glowing.
Six, my display is dim until I blow the sawdust off.
Rhodemont, I did clean it off a couple months ago and it went dim again. Ain't falling for that, again. ffcheesy
I do demos every so often. sometimes once a year. it has been 3 since I last did Ketchikan Alaska as a stop at a local camporee. about 300 scouts (some girls). It is good to pull it out of the trees and sawdust. I can flatten and really clean up my area, and find and make repairs on the mill, maybe even a bath.
I am working on reducing pic size to add. My lube was frozen and the hydraulic oil cold in am sat morning. My toggle to run the idle side roller in and out quit. hard to find a DPDT (on) off (on) momentary toggle in town so on order from somewhere in the amazon.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_2024-02-19-124136.jpeg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352508)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_2024-02-19-124628.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352509)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_2024-02-19-124552.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352510)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_2024-02-19-124421.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352511)
had a few tough bolts that the blue creeper helped out with. got the fender off and repainted, and the brackets straightened out 90 º to the frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7890.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352506)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7891.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352507)
lots of stuff to take along. enjoyed by young and old. also did branding.
Quote from: Magicman on February 08, 2024, 05:05:03 PMThis probably belongs in the "Dumb" topic, but that ain't the way it started. I sawed yesterday and noticed that my drive wheel brake needed tightening a bit. It was not bad and well within specs, but since I will have a full day of sawing tomorrow and Saturday and am off today, so git-er-done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5165.JPG)
The brake adjustment was easy and went well but when I noticed the turnbuckle I remembered that when I last did my drive belt adjustment I could not find my 11/16" wrench that fits the jam nut on top. I looked again this morning but it still was a no-show.
Off to the store I went and of course one individual wrench was not available so I bought the set that had not only the 11/16 but also all of the other sizes that I did not need. Got back to the sawmill, removed the 11/16 and proceeded to put it where it should be. Yup, there was my 11/16. Now back to the store to return the set that I did not need anyway. She asked "what was wrong with them", "nothing" I said, then "why are you returning them" she asked? Now I had to admit there in the store how dumb I was. :-\
Anyway, the brake is adjusted and I still have an 11/16 wrench. ;) :thumbsup:
Sorry MM, but my 1st thought as I'm reading this....I know where that wrench is. :thumbsup:
Quote from: Magicman on February 18, 2024, 08:30:54 AMMy Glow Plug Relay failed a couple of times yesterday, so Monday morning I will do some investigation.
My full time voltmeter clued me because the voltage did not make the normal drop when it was supposed to be glowing.
What was the outcome on the relay?
When I am on a job such as Saturday which was 26 miles away, everything on the sawmill must work. I have no time to loose with an intermittent issue.
The newer relays are epoxy sealed so I ordered a new one from an outside supplier. A web search gave me several Lombardini/Kohler options.
I to have wrenches hanging in several locations. My favorite combination wrench is the Williams super wrench and i have those in the sawmill up to 2". There is nothing metric in the sawmill and picker trucks are too old for metric. That helps. When ever I see adjustable 'cresent' wrenches I buy them and get laughed at. I have things bolted with large square head bolts where these knuckle busters work fine but they are so handy for bending. things
I find it useful to keep my metric adjustable wrenches in a separate drawer than the SAE ones.
have to remember to turn the little screwy thing the opposite direction when south of the equator. smiley_beertoast
yeah, its pretty difficult working on things at the equator.
I love crescent wrenches. There, I said it.
I always kinda identified with a cresent wrench. 'Fits anywhere and will slip off on you when you need it most. '
I also have square sockets. Kinda square myself.
kind of like Channel locks and vise grips. work on anything, or nothing, depending on how you were raised. ffcool ffcheesy
How do y'all organize left handed wrenches and screwdrivers? Seems like I have a mixed set of right and left handed tools!
All my axes, sledge hammers, shovels, bush axes and rakes MUST be left handed, they don't fit my hands too well anymore.
I used to (and probably till do) have an adjustable wrench which I don't know where it came from, but it was a cheapy. On one side it said the range was 0-1" and on the other side it said the range was 0-25mm. I guess it don't know how to identify. ffsmiley I always told folks that used it it was metric if you used it left handed and English if you used it right handed. This often made the new young guys stop and think for a minute. ffcheesy
Quote from: LeeB on February 19, 2024, 05:55:55 PMWhat was the outcome on the relay?
Lee, the Glow Plug relay is Part# ED0021931340-S, and I ordered from OEM. I got a shipping notice this morning and I will let you know how this works out.
In "for real" torque and wrenching situations, I will get the appropriate tools. But I tell you what, I have a little 4" crescent wrench that rides on my Learherman case. I may be heavier for all of the walking that that little guy has saved me over the years. It opens up to ½", gets used daily, and I develop an immediate nervous twitch if I misplace it.
Running forwarder, sometimes a hose or something will fail up on the boom. The only way to access it is to swing it over one of the wood piles so you can climb up on the pile. Well climbing a wood pile isn't always the safest of easiest thing, so you want to minimize trips for tools. Plus, in that situation you don't want any more tools than necessary up there. If you drop one...does anyone remember Plinko Chips from The Price Is Right? :huh? So a crescent will always be up their with me, it works better than the 22mm that us still down in the toolbox.
There is also a big difference in capability from a quality crescent vs an El cheapo one.
most guys around here carry the little two notch plyers and use them for almost anything. In fact, do not bother telling them it won't work, cause they will make it work just to prove you wrong. they love their little plyers and leather case. a farmer I worked for required us to have that with a screwdriver stuck in there as well between the handles, in order for us to work for him.
Quote from: barbender on February 20, 2024, 12:50:31 PMIn "for real" torque and wrenching situations, I will get the appropriate tools. But I tell you what, I have a little 4" crescent wrench that rides on my Learherman case. I may be heavier for all of the walking that that little guy has saved me over the years. It opens up to ½", gets used daily, and I develop an immediate nervous twitch if I misplace it.
My Father was a Carpenter and always carried a 4" adjustable and same size pliers.
Many times we'd be working on something and he'd hand one of them to me to get the job done without having to run for a tool. I miss the Ole' Man.
Quote from: LeeB on February 19, 2024, 05:55:55 PMWhat was the outcome on the relay?
The replacement Glow Plug Relay came yesterday.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5209.JPG)
$135.85 total with shipping, ordered from:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5210.JPG)
The searching that I did indicates that they have a good stock of Lombardini/Kohler parts.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5211.JPG)
I love my direct wired full time voltmeter which gives me a constant voltage reading. When it reads 12.7 or higher I know that my sawmill battery is OK.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5212.JPG)
When the glow plugs are energized the voltage drop is an instant indication that the glow plug relay has operated.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_0182.JPG)
With the engine running it will read 14+ volts showing the the alternator is doing it's job.
Because I live in the land of metric, beside a country that is still sae, we discovered that you can use metric to replace an sae, but not sae on metric. Saves walking back to the tool box.
Tom I really like those wrenches on nails, I am going to set that up in may shop and at home, I have lots of wrenches laying around. I bet I have 6 1/2" in my 1 toolbox.
Adjusted my head tilt for the first time today. Wow, that was way easy. ffcool It is amazing how a little tweet squares it up. ffwave