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Diesel oil

Started by Firewoodjoe, January 19, 2022, 07:22:41 AM

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Firewoodjoe

I know this has been beat to death and it's probably not a large concern but I'd just like to hear real word experience from you guys. Now that I'm getting more equipment I'm trying to get more bulk and simplify my parts inventory. I'll admit I've never worried about oil brands in these old engines but always use three types. Rotella,mobile and the farm store lube king in all my diesels. And now that I've had a few cold starts this winter down to -10F it's got me looking at rotella 5w40 for winter use and 15w40 for summer. I started my spare Skidder here at home this weekend and I don't remember what brand oil was put in that last but wow I had to heat the engine. Oil was like tar. Being in the woods I need good cold starts. (And the machines in use have all started but sound awful)  Just curious to what you all think on switching to winter weight oils. Owner manual says I can use different weights for different temps so shouldnt harm anything. Just curious. 

moodnacreek

Motor oil is expensive to change before it is due. Using thin oil will certainly help crank faster and if it stays cold  that is the thing to do. In a perfect world you would run summer oil all year and have a way to keep it warm overnight.

TroyC

From what I've seen at Wallyworld lately you'll use whatever is on the shelf. Not much selection in the diesel oil area. Went last week to get 8 gallons. Choice on shelf was Supertec 2 gallon and Rotella in 5 gallon buckets.

Woodfarmer

I have only ever used shell rotella 15w40.

What I have learned from my mechanic is the first number is for cold weather and the second number is for hot weather.
So you realistically only require 5w40 all year round. When I eventually run out of the 15w40 pails I will only buy 5w40 in the future.

Firewoodjoe

Quote from: Woodfarmer on January 19, 2022, 08:03:28 AM
I have only ever used shell rotella 15w40.

What I have learned from my mechanic is the first number is for cold weather and the second number is for hot weather.
So you realistically only require 5w40 all year round. When I eventually run out of the 15w40 pails I will only buy 5w40 in the future.
This is what I want to do but the shell 5w40 is synthetic. I don't really think it matters. But the 15w40 is conventional. Our oil gets changed every 250 hours.

snowstorm

i got a email from irving oil def is going up again. that happens every couple months lately and motor oil is going up in price

snowstorm

i run 15 40 in everything year round

Walnut Beast

Amsoil synthetic or Rotella Blue T6 synthetic only here. Wanted to run 5-40 about a month ago but none in stock anywhere 

Firewoodjoe

Rotella 15-40 I think would be fine year round. But watch some cold test. That Delo wouldn't even pour and rotella did. 

PoginyHill

This is an excellent explanation of oil weights and conventional vs synthetic. He has many videos on auto-related topics. He talks fast, so be ready to hit the pause button - lots of info very quickly from this guy.

5W-40 acts like a straight 5W at cold temps and like a straight 40W in hot temps. Overall, a multi-weight oil simply reduces the change in viscosity over a wide temperature range.

Is Synthetic Motor Oil Better For Your Car? - YouTube
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Gere Flewelling

At my work I maintain a small fleet of equipment from snow cats to small construction equipment and trucks.  I use 15w/40 oil in all diesel engines.  The older machines that might leak or burn some oil, I just use Rotella 15w-40 and change it every 200 hours or once a year.  The machines that have tier 3 or 4 engines, I use Texas Refinery Moly XL Pro-spec lV XP 15/40.  this oil is a synthetic blend and designed for long run times with oil sampling at usual intervals.
I run this in snow cats as it is very difficult to change engine oil when a machine is tracked up and loaded with snow and ice.  With this oil, I can run it for an entire season and just take oil samples and have them tested every 200 hours.  The only time I have to change it is when a sample show contamination or and engine issue.  I average about 1,200 hours a year on each of my 7 snow cats, but have also run this in a Volvo loader that is 23 years old with good success.  The loader has almost 14,000 hours on it and has never been rebuilt and uses no oil to this day.  I once ran the oil in that loader for 2,300 hours and the sample was still coming back as good.  I decided that was just too long to go on the oil filter and now regularly change the oil in that machine every 1,000 hours just to change the oil filter that tends to rust through on the outside if left longer.  The TRC oil is quite expensive but has proven to work great for my fleet.  Not trying to jinx myself, but we have not had any diesel engine rebuild issues in 15 years now.  I thought it might be a good idea to try the same oil in 5w-30 one year, but had issues with ecm's recording low engine oil pressures on snow cats.  Went back to the 15w/40 and the problems went away.  We have the occasional cold weather staring issues, but for the most part even the engines with only glow plugs or intake heaters start up with no issue.
Texas Refinery Corporation will sample their engine oil for no charge and supply the sample kits.  The only charge is for shipping.  They will not sample the Rotella oil for free and can detect it somehow and bill me.  I just use a vacuum pump that with a hose that goes in dipstick hole to draw out samples when needed.  This system has been working for me for many years now.  I keep a notebook of all sample reports for future reference if needed.
Old 🚒 Fireman and Snow Cat Repairman (retired)
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Southside

I use Rotella 15W-40 in all of my diesel equipment, have for years and have always been happy with it.  We will see 0F to 100F here.  I also use Lucas additive every couple of oil changes.  That stuff is the real deal.  Number of years ago I pulled a dead 6.5 out of my pickup that had been parked for a couple of weeks.  Had to swap the oil pans and when I removed the one from the dead engine the cylinders were coated with the Lucas, just like it had been shut off a minute earlier.  That made me a believer in the stuff.   
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Firewoodjoe

Well good old rotella t4 it is this time. Only one place had t6 and it was $22 a gallon🤯 I think I will just buy t4 only. The cold pour test it's always a winner. 

barbender

I like the Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40 for anything I run in the MN winter. Next time I change oil in the old Detroit I'm going to use it and see if it causes a warp in the universe or something😁 Stuff that likes to burn oil like the old "Heavy Chevy" 6.6 Duramax gets regular 15w40 diesel oil, whatever is cheapest. In the Mercedes in the Ponsses, we are running a 5w30 synthetic, that is what the newest spec calls for (CK?) I thought we'd be burning oil when we started using it in the older machines, has not been a problem at all though.
Too many irons in the fire

Firewoodjoe

I've found thick oil will burn more. I think it sticks to the wall rather than run back down. I don't know. I like t4 I'd like to try the t6 but that's makes oil changes twice as much money. And I'm cheap lol

mike_belben

Call lube distributors and find out who can get you a tote of rimula.  It is shell rotella with zero advertising budget so is about $2/g cheaper and only fleets ever know about it.  

Around here you buy a tote to keep in the shop and the lube guy comes out and refills it off his truck with a gallon meter.  You could probably get a delivery charge knocked off by bringing your tote to his house or shop when he says for a fill.  

Pay for oil samples from blackstone labs.  In the beginning itll add cost but it will be paid back either in catching failing bearings, cams or gaskets early... And in extending oil service life.  Everyone used to say 3k miles.  I was sending samples and still had 10% lubricity, detergents and antifoam additives left at 8300 miles on a turned up 6bt running WVO.  No one would guess that and be throwing away good oil.



Next up, learn about bypass filtration, lube carts and replenishing oil.  You dont have to be changing and dumping it.  You can build a filter rig to polish it, make up the additives and continue using.   If i were gonna be switching grades seasonally i would simply build a sucker tank drum lid so i could pull gear oils into this barrel, hydraulic into that one, engine oil into that one..  Bring it back to the shop, refine it and store until next season.

When its out of additives i blend the filtered stuff into summer diesel fuel and wring out the last penny. Waste not want not. Runs fine.  5 micron sock filter is all ya need.
Praise The Lord

mike_belben

Bob is the oilguy.com is board for lube engineers if you really want answers.   

And bypass filtration allows ypu to basically never change oil.  You change filters, top up with fresh and run it again.  Sample at intervals to determine how many hours between filter and makeup schedule.
Praise The Lord

chevytaHOE5674

I run 15w-40 in everything diesel I own. Pick a flavor Rotella,  delvac, etc.

I have one tractor that has to run to feed cows everyday even if its -40°, i switched to 0w-40 synthetic. That tractor starts much easier and the starter sounds much happier. The oil is pricey but its cheaper than spending half a day on a no-start and cheaper than premature engine failure from no lubrication when cold starting.

mike_belben

What are your thoughts on putting that in 50 year old kubota or detroit?  
Praise The Lord

chevytaHOE5674

I'm running it in a 35 year old 6600 hour ford diesel. Haven't had any leaking issues, and oil consumption is the same as 15w-40 in the summer. 


dgdrls

Quote from: Firewoodjoe on January 19, 2022, 07:22:41 AM
I know this has been beat to death and it's probably not a large concern but I'd just like to hear real word experience from you guys. Now that I'm getting more equipment I'm trying to get more bulk and simplify my parts inventory. I'll admit I've never worried about oil brands in these old engines but always use three types. Rotella,mobile and the farm store lube king in all my diesels. And now that I've had a few cold starts this winter down to -10F it's got me looking at rotella 5w40 for winter use and 15w40 for summer. I started my spare Skidder here at home this weekend and I don't remember what brand oil was put in that last but wow I had to heat the engine. Oil was like tar. Being in the woods I need good cold starts. (And the machines in use have all started but sound awful)  Just curious to what you all think on switching to winter weight oils. Owner manual says I can use different weights for different temps so shouldnt harm anything. Just curious.
Curious, what diesels do you have ?
If you have a 2 cycle Detroit it's straight weight 40 with Ash content as far below 1% as you can get
D

Firewoodjoe

 No more Detroit's. I have two Forwarders with 4 cy fords, one buncher with a 6068t Deere and one harvester with a 74et sisu. 

Tacotodd

I run the blue Rotella 5-40 in my V-6 Taco with 1qt of Lucas. 6qt total to get it to top of the fill line of the dipstick. Got over 300K miles on it and, I'm just lucky I guess, hasn't tripped the check engine light yet like normal high zinc content would. But my Taco doesn't seem to be particularly sensitive in the computer talking back and forth with the engine. I know it's still working because it's tripped for other things but nothing to do with the O2 sensors, 🤷‍♂️ who-da thunk it.
Trying harder everyday.

barbender

I don't remember where I read it, but the synthetic 40 weight oils were supposed to be match 40 straight weight. I think maybe because synthetic inherently has better flow characteristics, it doesn't need to have additives to improve cold performance like a conventional 15w40 would. So it stands up like a straight 40 at working temps. Anyways, that was my understanding, I wish I could remember where I saw it. Also, CK oils are low ash for emissions reasons. And lastly, I might be a bit jaded towards my Detroit because I wouldn't care if it grenades so I could do a Cummins swap😁
Too many irons in the fire

dgdrls

Quote from: barbender on January 21, 2022, 12:36:45 AM
I don't remember where I read it, but the synthetic 40 weight oils were supposed to be match 40 straight weight. I think maybe because synthetic inherently has better flow characteristics, it doesn't need to have additives to improve cold performance like a conventional 15w40 would. So it stands up like a straight 40 at working temps. Anyways, that was my understanding, I wish I could remember where I saw it. Also, CK oils are low ash for emissions reasons. And lastly, I might be a bit jaded towards my Detroit because I wouldn't care if it grenades so I could do a Cummins swap😁
Blasphemy ;)
What series Detroit??

I do like those BT Cummins

D

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