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Making a Loading Deck and Edging Slab table

Started by AnthonyW, May 29, 2015, 10:07:14 AM

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AnthonyW

When I see people using the WM with hydraulics, I see the tenders place the flitches to be edged on the raised loading arms. As my mill is manually loaded it has ramps. I was thinking of adding a leg to the end of the ramp to raise them flat to use in the same manner. When I try to place the flitches on the angled ramps they slide down, get all twisted, and look like a stack of pick-up sticks.

Since I would have a way to level the ramps, I was thinking I could use them, in that position, as a loading deck. I trust my father to load the logs on the mill directly but don't have particular trust in the tractor or others.

Just thinking out load. Any try or have anything like this?
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

WoodenHead

A couple years ago I put together a dead deck out of 4"x4" x 3/16" square tubing.  It was 12' long and was designed with places on either side for the log loading ramps to rest on. I would then place the flitches across the ramps.  Even though I have the hydraulic log loading arms I still use the loading ramps in this manner. 

My dead deck is not looking too good these days because a heavy log rolled off the forks of the tractor and dropped.  There's quite the bow in it now. 

47sawdust

Anthony,
I made 2 sets of sawhorses out of ash for use around the mill.I set my flitches to be edged on them sorted according to width. They are placed on the operators side of the mill in my case.Very handy and heavy.I copied the design from forum member Bibbyman,forum member Larry also made a set.Search his gallery under mill pictures for an idea of what they look like.
Best of luck,
Mick
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

AnthonyW

I thought of the saw horses. But then thought I could do a two for one. Maybe it would be best to do both. Saw horses for ramp loading jobs and ramp legs for the machine/deck loadable jobs.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

t f flippo

AnthonyW,  I have a friend who has a WM and loads on the right side and stacks his flitches on the left,and then edges them later.

I'm working off a dead log deck,fed with a forklift.

How would a flat dead log deck, with ramps work for you ?  Say, 4' to 6' flat and what ever you needed for ramps.

My log deck is 'real hi-tech'. Three 4 x 12 x 12's. And 2' x 24" butt cuts set flat and chainsaw notched to hold the 4 x 12's. Loading arms are inside the first two.Dead log deck only works for 'rollable' logs. Anything else is forklift direct delivery.


AnthonyW

I suppose I should have started with my problems rather than my solutions.

I have two issues:
1) The flitches to be edged must be placed somewhere near the mill to be put back on. The people with the hydraulics place them on the log lift in the up position. I have tried to do the same, but they don't stay put on the sloped ramps.
2) The winch to load the logs works well, but sometimes there is a tractor available to load the logs directly on the mill. Only I would prefer if the logs were not placed directly on the mill but on a loading deck of some sort.

To solve #1, I was thinking of adding folding legs to the log ramps to be able to raise and level them for use as a place to put the flitches to be edged.

To solve #2, I was thinking of adding folding legs to the log ramps to be able to raise and level them for use as a place for the tractor to place the logs, rather than directly on the mill.

After reading some of this thread. I think I should make the legs, but primarily for #2 and should use a pair of saw horses for a place to put the flitches to be edged (issue #1).
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

WoodenHead

I leave the original ramps that came with the mill (it was originally an LT40 manual) in place at all times to form a bridge between the mill and the dead deck.  The flitches rest across the ramps until I am ready for them.  The hydraulic loading arms are not restricted from functioning which comes in handy from time to time.  For the most part though I don't use the hydraulic arms.






I'm still in the process of setting things up and finishing off the shed.  Unfortunately a concussion has slowed me down considerably. 

In the background there is a stack of flitches in front of my edger (TimberKing Talon 900).  I have used the edger a bit and can see its usefulness in a multi person operation.  However, being one person I have come to discover (the hard way  ;) - because others have said it) that edging on the mill is equally fast for the way that I have things arranged.  But that's a whole other post.   

In the foreground at the end of the mill you'll notice the racks for my edgings.  Slabs are not being well handled at the moment because I don't have all my roller conveyor in place yet for material coming off the mill.  I'm still shoveling saw dust for the moment, but that will change in the future as well.

I wouldn't by far say this is the best way of doing things, but it is the way that works for me.   :)  And I'm constantly trying to improve as time and money permit.  This forum has been invaluable for information and ideas.   

dboyt

I avoid using a loader to put logs directly on the mill whenever possible-- to much potential for damage.  Much better to put a bend in a log deck than on a saw mill frame (as I'm sure woodenhead would agree).  If you can set up a dead deck, you'll be amazed at how much time you save by decking up a half-dozen logs at a time, and freeing the loader for slab removal and other tasks.  If necessary, the ramps go on the end of the deck so I can winch logs onto it.  Folding legs for the ramp may not be stable enough for your purposes.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

DMcCoy

I use sawhorses for slabs and boards to be edged.  I move them to load logs directly onto the mill.  I like the idea of a dead deck for reasons you mentioned and will someday build one. 
My plan is to build a deck with a gap between it and the mill for walking access, so @ a 24"-32" gap.  I plan to have a couple of removable 4 x 4's to bridge that gap for rolling logs onto the mill.

DR Buck

I believe there is another option.    Wood-Mizer offers an add-on kit to put loading arms on manual mills.


http://woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment/OptionsAccessories/LCeid/164826/hydraulic-log-loading-kit
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

drobertson

I think you could do both, make two pair of saw horses, use one pair to support your loading arms, the other for misc. uses.  When loading logs just move them out of the way til you are ready for the flitches.  (modified)  or do the option DR Buck mentioned,  if money permits.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

WoodenHead

Quote from: dboyt on May 30, 2015, 07:34:26 AM
I avoid using a loader to put logs directly on the mill whenever possible-- to much potential for damage.  Much better to put a bend in a log deck than on a saw mill frame (as I'm sure woodenhead would agree).  If you can set up a dead deck, you'll be amazed at how much time you save by decking up a half-dozen logs at a time, and freeing the loader for slab removal and other tasks. 

I certainly agree!  For a time I did not have the dead deck.  The mill took a pounding no matter how gentle I was trying to load.  There is always a log that has too much sweep or doesn't have all the branches trimmed back or has a lump in an inconvenient spot, making it difficult to roll onto the mill.  And I have to admit that even my WM log ramps have bent over time.   

Originally I tried saw horses for slabs.  Personally I found it tiring by the end of the day to drag flitches off and then back onto the mill.  It is much easier for me to push  them off to the ramps at the end of a cut and then flip them back on the mill later for edging.  Minimal lifting/carrying.

AnthonyW

Quote from: DR_Buck on May 30, 2015, 08:50:22 AM
I believe there is another option.    Wood-Mizer offers an add-on kit to put loading arms on manual mills.


http://woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment/OptionsAccessories/LCeid/164826/hydraulic-log-loading-kit

For some manual mills (LT35 and LT40 only.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

AnthonyW

Quote from: drobertson on May 30, 2015, 08:53:14 AM
I think you could do both, make two pair of saw horses, use one pair to support your loading arms, the other for misc. uses.  When loading logs just move them out of the way til you are ready for the flitches.  (modified)  or do the option DR Buck mentioned,  if money permits.

I don't think one would need too pairs. I either have a loader/tractor or not. If I have a loader, then I put the sawhorses under the ramps and make a deck then use the deck to also hold the slabs. If I don't have a loader/tractor, then the ramps stay angled to the ground and the saw horses get moved in and out of position to hold the slabs.

Anyone know how to build a set of saw horses than could handle 1000 lbs? (4000 pounds log held up by four points, each point holds ~1k lbs)
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

drobertson

then leave them slanted and do as you are doing,  or put in some cash for a more advanced process. 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

AnthonyW

Quote from: drobertson on May 30, 2015, 09:55:39 PM
then leave them slanted and do as you are doing,  or put in some cash for a more advanced process.

I need to improve at least the staging for the flitches to be edged. By the time I am done squaring log, they have slid to the ground in a tangled mess. So then I have pick them up from the ground to put them on the mill. I don't have the mill loaded by tractor often, so that is the lesser of my concerns. I think a pair of folding sawhorses will be plenty wide enough and just the right height for stacking the flitches to be edged; Plus they would be flexible and easily movable to load the next log. I have a pair downstairs and weather permitting, will be sawing on Sunday.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

WoodenHead

If you have saw horses give them a try for holding the flitches.  Depending on what your saw horses are like, be careful not to overload.  Flitches add up in terms of weight.  And I wouldn't recommend loading logs onto the ramps when you have your saw horses in place.  If they are foldable I suspect they are not heavy enough for that task.  As I mentioned before, I managed to permanently dent my loading ramps that came with the mill.  And I wasn't even directly loading onto them.  Just the momentum of a heavy rolling log was enough.

47sawdust

The saw horses I mentioned earlier are very stout,all ash,2x4 construction with 5/4x6 top and backstop on one end to keep the flitches from falling off.I have loaded them heavy with no problem.Visitors who casually try to pick up an empty horse are in for a surprise on the their first attempt.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

AnthonyW

Quote from: WoodenHead on June 01, 2015, 06:24:13 AM
If you have saw horses give them a try for holding the flitches.  Depending on what your saw horses are like, be careful not to overload.  Flitches add up in terms of weight.  And I wouldn't recommend loading logs onto the ramps when you have your saw horses in place.  If they are foldable I suspect they are not heavy enough for that task.

I have never counted, but I would suspect there are about 8 flitches per log plus 4 slabs for firewood. I can't image that any respectable set of saw horses couldn't hold 8 boards. I wouldn't be able to load logs onto the ramps with the sawhorses in place. There are times that I will even remove the ramps while milling a log, so I don't trip over them or have to walk around them.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

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