2008 346XPG - Black Wire from Coil

[Beachcomber]

Hi folks,

I hope you are all well. I have a couple of questions.

I bought a couple of 2008/9 346XPGs at an auction and in the process of giving them some well needed TLC.

Question number 1. I'm assuming these are the 50cc version - both have grey clutch covers but I don't know if there is any other way to confirm the cc?

Question number 2. The kill switch on one saw is not working. I removed the starter cover and discovered:

• The Black wire from the coil pack has severed, probably not been sitting in it's conduit and was squeezed between cover and the vibration probably wore through.

• The Blue wire was extremely loose at the spade connection on the coil. It's been tightened up and sitting snug. I get continuity from the Kill switch to the coil pack. The Kill switch makes good contact.

I've not tested saw yet as other parts off for a good clean. Could anyone please let me know if the black wire from the coil must be reconnected for the kill switch to work - or is it for the heated handle?

Best regards

[dougand3]

IIRC, the kill switch is a plastic rotater knob with a Z metal band. You need 2 kill wires from coil, so that they both touch metal band when in OFF position - completes the circuit to ground coil.

I think silver clutch cover = 50cc 45mm piston NE. OE was 44mm piston. 

[Beachcomber]

Thanks Doug,

I disconnected the black wire and have removed it completely.

I was going to make a replacement. But the wire I have is quite stiff. Then I figured this is high temp & high vibration equipment so needs to be to spec. I found this which might be handy for others:

Electrical wires for chainsaws | Husqvarna Purchase

I emailed Husqvarna and asked where I could buy just the wires and will report back - but if anyone knows where these wires are on the internet - please let me know.

[mburrow]

Cable Assy
Part Number: 503898702

[dougand3]

The stiff wire will probably be fine. Key is to route wire so flywheel cannot grab it. This saw should have an air dam over flywheel with wire routing slots.

[wild262]

IIRC, the kill switch is a plastic rotater knob with a Z metal band. You need 2 kill wires from coil, so that they both touch metal band when in OFF position - completes the circuit to ground coil.

I think silver clutch cover = 50cc 45mm piston NE. OE was 44mm piston.

The OE was a 42mm bore.  NE is a 44.3mm bore.  There are some AM kits like "Hyway" that are 45mm that they call "big bore".  Usually the NE will have a primer bulb within the top cover.  the older OE did not have one.  And of course the grey clutch cover.  This only applies if the saws have there original parts as these saws are often tinkered with and modified.  There both good runners without much difference in "felt" power.

[dougand3]

Thanks for the accurate data, wild262

[Beachcomber]

Thanks for all the info guys.

I think my one must be NE as has primer bulb, grey clutch cover and decomp valve. I added a pic - this saw was filthy with caked in grime. Been cleaning it up.

How do you guys clean out the fly wheel area? I don't have air so just been scraping with small wire and giving it a bush and started to clean with a bit with petrol and a tooth brush.

Obviously got the fly wheel off and it cleaned up well and now looking like a newish part. See below - this is the saw where the fly wheel sits after a considerable period of manual de-gunking



 

[realzed]

Brake Clean (same spray most mechanics use to clean brake dust off  when redoing auto braking systems and parts) works well on all kinds of crap, oil, grease, and sap, that I've had to deal with, stuck to Stihl plastic and other bits.  I'd certainly test it out on Husky plastic bits first to ensure it won't bother it - but I don't imagine there would be a problem - otherwise it is the best stuff I've found..   Castrol Super Clean works great as well, but is hard on the exposed skin and finger nails, slower, and makes pieces pretty slick and difficult to hang on to.  It also needs to sit a bit to get the best cleaning results and usually needs to be washed off with something else after to get plastic surfaces completely clean, unlike the Brake Clean which just evaporates away pretty quickly and mostly requires very little if any, extra effort to get rid of most of the above mentioned chainsaw related buildup. All any parts to be cleaned with the Brake Clean normally require is some draining angle or ability to shed the cleaner and loosened goop to run off and you are good to go...

[Mad Professor]

I scrap off the thick stuff then use a spray bottle w/diesel fuel and an old tooth brush (stiff bristle).  Sometimes it helps to let the diesel soak a while. 

To get off the diesel/stench follow that up with simple green or dish detergent.