iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Setworks

Started by tacks Y, July 01, 2020, 07:02:02 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

tacks Y

I have a Baker 3565D mill with set works. I would think I could set the core and set and cut last slab then just cut boards. I set the core and set to 1 1/8" but the set works does not figure in to do this and it does not come out even at the end. Are other set works the same? I had them on a TK 1600 but do not remember. The Log-Master LM3 I had ran photo eyes so it did perfect, and I liked it for what I did. Called Baker and they said it would not do this I had to figure out my start point. I can cut a slab and the boards cut fine just hoping the saw would give me the point to cut the slab.  

Bruno of NH

Sounds like it setup like simple set on my Woodmizer 
You need to know your starting point after you take off you waste slabs. 
Then set it and it will cut down to the deck.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Southside

I have fumbled with the setworks on a 3665 for a buddy, so by no means an expert, but from what I could figure out, and what Baker told me, their setworks won't do what you are trying to get it to do automatically.  On my Super 70  "Pattern Mode" will do it and take the dog board off with the slab cut leaving you with a target last board thickness.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Magicman

My old '98 model LT40 has the original SetWorks.  There is nothing to tell it where it is but I tell it where it is going.  Early on I developed a "cheat sheet" to give me my starting point for sawing various thicknesses of lumber.  I have fairly well memorized these starting points for the lumber thicknesses that I commonly saw.  For those odd times/thicknesses, I set it, make a "practice run", and then make whatever adjustment to my starting point that is necessary.
 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

    I don't understand the term "core" as used in the OP. Are you talking about the center of the pith or what?

    I think I do like the MagicMan. I typically cut my first slab and maybe a flitch or two to get the face width I want, flip 180 degrees and start on a mark to repeat till I get the cant thickness I want then flip 90 degrees and cut a slab and maybe a flitch, flip 180 to the final face and start at a mark off my cheat sheet and saw to the rails. I finish on my mark on the dog board every time this way with no thick or thin board at the bottom.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Magicman

I took "core" to mean the final cant with the unopened face on top.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

tacks Y

Thanks all. I guess maybe a cheat sheet is in order.

The core can be set to end up with a larger beam or center. Run the set to remove boards, end up with a tie or blank.

Once I start to saw it will retain a set point, just thought it should be smarter.   

Tom the Sawyer

Check out Sawmill Calculator Pro by Mica Peak Solutions.  It is an app for your phone.  Enter the width of your kerf, the desired thickness, approximate total thickness, and the thickness of the last board (if different), it will tell you where to start.  My TK B20 has a simple setworks, saves doing a lot of math in my head.

I leave the approximate total thickness at 28" (highest cut I could make on my mill).  Enter the desired thickness (i.e. 1 3/8"), kerf, and it displays all of the potential start points between the deck and 28", all 19 of them.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

esteadle

To figure out the starting point on consistent thickness boards down to a cant is not that much math really. As long as you can work in 16ths. 

First, you need to know your kerf width, which is usually 1/16". 
Then, you need to know your 'leave' -- what you want to have left in the cant when you are done. 
Then, you look at where you are (approximately) to figure out how many boards you can cut. 
Once you know how many (say N) you add in N * 1/16 for your kerf on every cut. 

Example: 
I'm cutting down to the last 4/4 board, and I want to cut 5 4/4 boards from the log on deck. Where do I start? 
My last board will be at 1". I will cut 5 boards before I get to that last board. My starting height is going to be 6" plus 1/16 * 5 boards. 5/16 plus 6" is 6-5/16". That's where to start cutting to cut 5 4/4 boards and leave a 4/4 board on the deck.  

Second example: 
I'm cutting Grade now, so I want 1/8" over on every board. The last board is 4/4 (but my mill is set to leave all 4/4 boards with an extra 1/8 anyway). Lets say I want 6/4 boards. My kerf is still 1/16". My "over" is 1/8 or 2/16. With my kerf, I need to add an extra 3/16 on every board. 

Lets say I want to cut 7 boards at 6/4. My last board has the 1/8" extra so I will cut down and finish at exactly 1.5". To cut 6 more board of 6/4, I will need 
 a) 6 * 1.5 or 9" of height
 b) 1/8 over and 1/16 kerf for each board (3/16 total)

I'm finishing at 1.5 and starting 9" over that so 10.5, PLUS... for 6 boards, I need 3/16 each or 18/16 total for all 6. 
Add 18/16 to 10 8/16" and you get 11 - 10/16. If you like, convert the 10/16 to 5/8 (but I don't bother, I have 16ths on my dial). 

I don't know does that make sense to anyone? 

Magicman

Quote from: Tom the Sawyer on July 01, 2020, 04:30:02 PMCheck out Sawmill Calculator Pro by Mica Peak Solutions. It is an app for your phone.
I made some suggestions to the Developer/Owner Grant Erickson which he incorporated into this latest version.  It is a very accurate app for determining your starting point for various lumber thicknesses.  I believe that the Pro version is $3.20.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JB Griffin

I have run Baker Blue Streak, then a non cab Dominator and now a cab Dominator. Baker Coreset setworks is bed referencing transducer based setworks. To best explain how to operate this setworks I will give an example of how to saw a 7X9 crosstie. After load and positioning log manually set the head to open desired face, while blade is in wood select board thickness (set) and toggle reset switch.  When blade exits log hit offset on small joystick. This tells the computer to remember where it's at to set for the next cut.  Drag slab back and hit set on small joystick.  Head will now drop desired depth.  Turn log when needed and repeat.  Turn to third face, select 9" core setting, manually position head above log slightly and press set on small joystick.  Computer now knows to take desired thickness boards to desired cant size and stop, factoring in kerf in the process.  Turn to fourth face select 7" core size manually position head above log, press set and continue sawing until reach 7".

In order for the setworks to function correctly board thickness must be selected first then core size, not the other way around.  To do otherwise the computer forgets what core it is going to and will set from the current blade height irregardless of where you wanted it to go.  
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

WV Sawmiller

@esteadle ,

   Confuses me but that does not take a lot. I figure 1/8" for kerf and set my marker on my scale to show what is left. I.e. If my marker says 2" I have an exactly 2" board remaining.

   Example on my cheat sheet if cutting 4/4 (boards exactly 1" thick) on my 4th face I set my SimpleSet to do 1-1/8" drops. I start at 10", next drop ends 8-7/8" then 7-3/4" then 6-5/8" then 5-1/2" then 4-3/8" then 3-1/4" then 2-1/8" then end exactly on 1".

   I've done my cheat sheet from 1/2" to 4" with the various thickness anybody could/is likely to ask for. For 1/2" & 5/8" boards I set my sheet up to leave a 1" dog board. There may be other options but this works well for me. 

    If cutting 8/4 I stop on my mark and if I see there is a 4/4 board left, and I or the customer can use the 4/4 board, I raise 1-1/8", cut/salvage the 4/4 then start on my 8/4 boards. Saves me a lot of lumber and I always end on my mark.

   Of course the customer will invariably stop me half way down a cant and say "Lets go ahead and cut a 3" slice out of that for ____ purpose" then I have to recompute on the fly, often with a trim cut, which is still often a handy piece.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Southside

Quote from: JB Griffin on July 01, 2020, 09:36:35 PMComputer now knows to take desired thickness boards to desired cant size and stop factoring in kerf in the process


Why would it do that?
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

stavebuyer

One thing in regard to "setworks" and final cant size; once you take a couple passes and especially if you unclamp the cant often it will move enough from stress that you will need a shim cut if the final cant size is critical like cutting rafters to be uniform.

JB Griffin

Quote from: Southside on July 01, 2020, 10:00:39 PM
Quote from: JB Griffin on July 01, 2020, 09:36:35 PMComputer now knows to take desired thickness boards to desired cant size and stop factoring in kerf in the process


Why would it do that?
Grammatical error, should have been a comma after stop.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

Southside

Ahhh. Gotcha. I was scratching my head on that one.
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

tacks Y

Thanks to all for the info. I do not carry a phone so no apps for me. Will just do the math in the old brain. I just thought this should be smart enough to do it, I guess none do. Cutting some white pine to get the hang of the new mill before I try some hard wood. 

Thanks Tom

Magicman

My phone/apps normally do not work at sawing locations which is why I have start height numbers bouncing around between my ears.  ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JB Griffin

@tacks Y  just exactly what are trying to get the setworks to do? I have run 3 different bakers all with coreset over the last 4 years.

No cheat sheet is needed with this setworks as it is a bed referencing setworks just like accuset2.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

tacks Y

JB, I can remove a slab bump up hit set remove the board I want. When I remove the last slab I want to run down through the cant. I want the mill to tell me where to saw the last slab so I saw an even number of boards and nothing left.

JB Griffin

To do that set your core to the board thickness you want, and your set to the same. Flip to your last face and select the core you set the same as board thickness DO NOT CHANGE THE SET AS THIS RESETS THE SETWORKS.  Then procede as usual. 
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

JB Griffin

All thia can and should be preloaded into the setworks as you have 8 cores and 8 sets available for use.

I have sawn close to 4million bdft on baker mills and used the coreset setworks for nearly every one of them. 
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

Thank You Sponsors!