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recomendation of a saw for a new 36" Alaskan chainsaw mill

Started by tomb, February 14, 2020, 10:24:16 AM

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tomb

I am looking to purchase an Alaskan 36" chainsaw mill to mill up logs that are bigger then my Turner mill can handle. 
What do you use or what would you recommend I look for to purchase?
Thanks for the advice.

lxskllr

Bigger's always better, but I'm using a 661. Works fine with a 36" bar. An 880 would probably be better, but I have zero use for a saw that big outside of milling, and I don't mill that much to begin with. ~90cc seemed to be the sweet spot for maximizing use of an expensive purchase.

mredden

A 36" bar is gonna lose 6 inches of cutting width in an Alaskan mill running a sprocket nose. It only loses 3 to 4 inches with a hardnose.

What width does your Turner max out at? If 30", you aren't gonna get wider with an Alaskan 36 inch mill and bar. You need to run a 42" bar. to get up to the full potential of your mill.

I run a 36" bar on my Husq 390xp and it's great. When I run a 42" bar in 30+ inches of wood, it struggles. GOTTA have a nose oiler even though my saw puts out a bunch of oil on the high setting. Echo 80 should perform similar to mine - with 42 being a stretch

The 660/661 will have a bit more power than my 390xp and should handle the 42 inch bar a little bit more easily. My friend's 395xp has absolutely no problems with the 42 inch bar and will handle bigger bars - but you don't need more than a 42".

Pine Ridge

Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

esteadle


I have the 36" Alaskan package (C3) and am using it with my 661 and that would be my preference. Works great. I would say go for it, and save the cost over the 880. THe 661 runs a little bit higher revs and is a bit less torq-y than the 880 but also, the cost of the chain (.404 vs .375) and weight savings to help you get done faster. I think all that leans in favor of the 661.

The 36" package comes with a 42" bar, which is double headed. The package includes a "helper handle" that is basically a bearing for the other end and gives you more adjustment for tightening the chain (which is needed as the chains stretch with use). An aux-oiler is also included. I'd add on the chain breaker / mender too. And a couple loops of chain. 
https://granberg.com/product/g778-36c3-mk-iv-c3-package/

Mate that up with a MS 661 which is a 90+cc saw as required by the package, and your chain will work, and your sprocket will work. 

One hint if you go this way. Your package comes with "stud bolt adapters" that slip over the MS661s stud bolts and widen them enough to mate with the bar. You may need to grind the edge of one of the stud bolt adapters to fit inside the threaded chain adjuster bolt anchor. A bench grinder is perfect, but you could use a dremel or even a regular old file to grind it flat. 


celliott

Husqvarna 395xp gets my vote as well.
Have one on my 36" Alaskan mill. Works great, puts out oil like a refinery.

If you only have stihl dealers around or like your local stihl dealer best, 661 or 880, but like others said, 880 is pretty overkill, 90cc will get it done fine.

Whatever you do, whatever brand, no smaller than 90cc.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

tomb

Thank you to all who have commented, your help is greatly appreciated!
Tom

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