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goose neck into logging trailer

Started by doc henderson, June 27, 2020, 11:00:22 AM

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doc henderson

the center is a rubber plug, and you fill till it is running out.  should be able to do a walk by visual, but they get dirty.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Tacotodd

The only way that I can think of is very labor intensive, pulling the hub assy. That's if you want to, but I'd not push MY luck!  

IF you go that route then I'd drain completely, drill a tap for 1/4npt, use female hex plugs, brake clean the snot out of it, and be G2G!
Trying harder everyday.

OH logger

All my trailer hubs have a max fill line on em about a half inch below the plug
john

Tacotodd

I've never claimed to see or know everything. 
Trying harder everyday.

doc henderson

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

mike_belben

Put a scrap of cardboard bent in a vee under the hub and sitting in an oil pan.  Ive only done bigrig bolt on covers but yours dont seem to have bolts. Perhaps they thread on or have a snapring.  


Anyhow, pull them and let them drain a while.  Put back on and refill.  A wrecked spindle is a catastrophe, so new known good oil is a bargain.  


The lucas white bottle is quite expensive and very thick.  It will usually stop a leak for a while then go back to leaking in my experience.  You can pour enough lucas through a leaky seal to just buy the seal and do it right.  DOT can shove an oiled brake pad right up your butt.  We just ran 80w90.  Keep it clean and filled to the line.  A bit below leaking out but visible from the plug.  Bring a bottle with you after a change as itll keep seeping in for a while with tilting side to side. Well.. On a big truck.. Dunno about dexter hubs.



Your truck and trailer empty requires a class A in some states, and possibly in your state, to some troopers even if the state book says otherwise.  Its a very ambiguous and gray pile of regulation.   For instance in one chapter you may be listed under some exemption.  But elsewhere it may say anyone who is REGISTERED for over 26k gcvw (thats truck, trailer, cargo total) requires CDL.. And that can override the exemption in the cops mind.  He puts pen to paper, youve got an out of service order abd a parked truck.. boom it has the force of law and youre going to court, like it or not.  Maybe a grand or two in wrecker fees too.  It may be sorry your honor, it may be lose your license.  


I PROMISE... It is cheaper to get it before the day comes when you needed to have it.  You can test in your rig, you just wont have airbrake endorsement and probably will have an automatic restriction.  In tennessee they call it an A57.
Praise The Lord

Resonator

Some of the semi trailers I ran years back had a clear "window" ring around the hub center fill plug, with a line to show when the oil was full. Pre-trip you would carry a rag and wipe off each one and check the level, it it needed some, you'd add 80-90 gear lube we kept in a dish soap bottle. Now a days you can get the spout bottle like Lucas oil has. If you saw a spider-star of oil steaks on the wheel, it meant a bad seal. The outer one being much easier to fix than the inner one. Another tool available today is an infrared thermometer, with it you can stop and check all your hubs after driving while loaded, to see if any are hotter than the others.
Under bark there's boards and beams, somewhere in between.
Cuttin' while its green, through a steady sawdust stream.
I'm chasing the sawdust dream.

Proud owner of a Wood-Mizer 2017 LT28G19

mike_belben

Yeah i did the soap bottle too. 

 A piece of 1/4 airline into a dawn bottle reamed out oversize to fit it by pocketknife makes a handy dandy trans or rear filler in a pinch.  If the stem goes all the way into the bottom you just squeeze and itll go up the tube. 
Praise The Lord

Walnut Beast

Quote from: mike_belben on January 17, 2021, 07:51:31 PM
Put a scrap of cardboard bent in a vee under the hub and sitting in an oil pan.  Ive only done bigrig bolt on covers but yours dont seem to have bolts. Perhaps they thread on or have a snapring.  


Anyhow, pull them and let them drain a while.  Put back on and refill.  A wrecked spindle is a catastrophe, so new known good oil is a bargain.  


The lucas white bottle is quite expensive and very thick.  It will usually stop a leak for a while then go back to leaking in my experience.  You can pour enough lucas through a leaky seal to just buy the seal and do it right.  DOT can shove an oiled brake pad right up your butt.  We just ran 80w90.  Keep it clean and filled to the line.  A bit below leaking out but visible from the plug.  Bring a bottle with you after a change as itll keep seeping in for a while with tilting side to side. Well.. On a big truck.. Dunno about dexter hubs.



Your truck and trailer empty requires a class A in some states, and possibly in your state, to some troopers even if the state book says otherwise.  Its a very ambiguous and gray pile of regulation.   For instance in one chapter you may be listed under some exemption.  But elsewhere it may say anyone who is REGISTERED for over 26k gcvw (thats truck, trailer, cargo total) requires CDL.. And that can override the exemption in the cops mind.  He puts pen to paper, youve got an out of service order abd a parked truck.. boom it has the force of law and youre going to court, like it or not.  Maybe a grand or two in wrecker fees too.  It may be sorry your honor, it may be lose your license.  


I PROMISE... It is cheaper to get it before the day comes when you needed to have it.  You can test in your rig, you just wont have airbrake endorsement and probably will have an automatic restriction.  In tennessee they call it an A57.
Plus if you are responsible for any accidents not being legal and insurance doesn't pay. It could cost you everything

YellowHammer

I was originally going to design something innovative with folding down the or telescoping standards, but in practice they are fairly light and I just back the trailer up on my gravel pad, slide the standards up off the stubs by hand and drop them on the ground.  Then I go to the other side and do the same.  Thats pretty much it.  Simple and easy.  Since I park my trailer on the same pad everytime, I just back into my spot, hook up the trailer, lift the jacks and as I'm doing my walk around inspection, pick up the standards and slide them back on.  For me it's important to take the standards completly off so I can easily load pallets of wood, so need a flatbed trailer configuration.  

I literally just drop them on the ground and gave up worry about the paint.  The metal stays pretty shiny.   :D



 

Here's how I pop them off with a crowbar if they ever get stuck.  You can see the other one laying on the ground, where it will sit until tomorrow.  




I've had a boat trailer and a PJ25K trailer with oil bath axles and I liked them more than grease hubs.  However, they have a couple real life issues that can be a problem. The first is that the caps are plastic, and although tough, will crack under impact.  That may never be a problem, but if you've ever dented in a greased axle hub with a log that rolled back agains the hubs or something, there's a chance the oil bath cover will break.  So I always carried a spare with some axle oil.  I never outright broke one, but I did damage more than one, but they never left me stranded.  I've seen some aftermarket aluminum armored hubs that are supposed to solve that problem.

The oil bath axles have fallen out of favor for many boat manufacturers because they can't be filled 100%, most time about 1/2 or 1/3rd the way up.  The oil has to have a place to expand when it gets hot and needs to "slosh".  The problem is that if the trailer sits for an extended time which is not uncommon with boat trailers, the parts of the axle and bearing that aren't under the oil corrode or rust and fail, especially if near the saltwater.  So with oil bath axles, it's important to actually use them regularly to keep this from happening.  

The PJ Dexter hubs screw on with an O ring seal.  To dump the oil, unscrew the cap, screw it back on and fill it with oil to the line from the front fill plug.

I will always upgrade to the highest load rating tire that will fit in my hub.  The trailers that run E can be fitted with G's which is what I run.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

mike_belben

Transmissions and rear ends in dead parked vehicles rusts on the air side too after a while.  


YH, this is your friendly reminder to oil that trailer deck soon.  Im a few years late on mine and wish i wasnt. 
Praise The Lord

TimW

Quote from: mike_belben on January 17, 2021, 08:15:17 AM
Just fyi.. You could put about 20k on each axle before the bearings got upset about the weight, as long as they have clean lube and correct preload.  The spindles would likely bend first or some other failure.  I have done a lot of destructive overload testing of trailers without losing a wheel bearing yet.  



I have also had a bearing fail and wipe out the spindle nut and have the whole knuckle fly off the steer axle with no load.   So keep up with your grease, especially in freezing climates.
Good to know.  My Dad had a 1964 Chevy 1/2 PU turned into a trailer.  I was driving while coming home from our deer lease with Dad, when the truck felt like it needed to be downshifted.  I looked out the left rear mirrow and saw the trailer wheel bearing was on fire.  Now, I like to err on the safe side.
            hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide 35hp Yanmar Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

TimW

Quote from: doc henderson on January 17, 2021, 01:46:25 PM
ok @Bindian here is a pic of the tag.  



 

it is the low profile dual tandem.  32 foot, 27 in front of the dovetail.

now for more education for me.  this is the first trailer I have with an oil bath bearing, instead of needing repacked, or intermittent pumps of grease.  I have topped them off in the past.  any other tricks.  as you can see, they are hard to see unless cleaned off.  It gets washed about once a year.  it can set for 2 or 3 months at a time, or get used everyday for a week.  @YellowHammer @mike_belben .




Sweet.............12k axles.  My tag says 10k axles, but I found the manual stated 9880 pounds.  Why the difference...........I have no clue.  I have to wipe the hub covers down every time I check air pressures, to check the oil levels.
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide 35hp Yanmar Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

mike_belben

Yeah, i had the big trailer on fire once on the shoulder on i-40 in NC.  A brake chamber diaphram failed at the very back and engaged slowly.  



A fine gallon of walmart juice mix valiently gave its last drop putting that out, before 3 fire trucks arrived. ;D


Knocked the clevis pin out of the rod yoke and put the slack adjuster under the bunk to finish my run with the rear shoe wired up as best i could get it.  A lot can go wrong when you leave home so i try not to anymore!
Praise The Lord

TimW

Quote from: doc henderson on January 17, 2021, 01:19:06 PM
I look at the bed of my truck as I load.  a little tricky, it I carry the track loader on the back, since it is done by the time it is on there.  so I fit it on, and usually does well.  I rarely travel far on on busy highways, prob 50 miles max to take skid steer for repairs.  I still as you can see, wanted to eliminate the weakest link.  any other thought on how to load with good distribution.  I may make another set for when someone else can load me.  I am usually the guy with the equipment, but have some logs coming up with a rancher that is proud of his stuff, and says he can load me.  It may be the maiden voyage for these bunks.  so @Skeans1 are you saying those hare hinged and fold up and down?  I considered that but also adds complexity and a poss. failure point if not adequately engineered.  do I need reflectors on the uprights.  or reflective tape.  ditched the safety red or orange, as to not draw attention.  I am not "DOT inspected" but at some level of weight I am sure they will be looking.  "logging" is not a thing here.
I got farm tags from my timber/agriculture exemption.  I was pulled over when I was bringing some roller tables (painted bright Yellow, which screamed  commercial, not personal) home from my local welding shop.  All the trooper asked was,...........are you hauling personal property.  I smiled and said.......................YES, with all the Texas drawl I could muster.
Then I hear................have a nice day.
                   hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide 35hp Yanmar Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

YellowHammer

Quote from: mike_belben on January 17, 2021, 08:55:04 PM
YH, this is your friendly reminder to oil that trailer deck soon.  Im a few years late on mine and wish i wasnt.
Yes, I agree.  I have been letting it go too long because I have some pretty big holes in the deck from where big butt flair logs have punched through the boards.  I've got some work to do already.  I have been meaning to to replace the decking, but I have until next inspection, in August, to deal with it.  

I am almost thinking of removing the decking altogether and leaving it off.  But I'm worried that without the shock absorbing layer of wood, my steel would get damaged.  Any thoughts?  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Tacotodd

YH, steel is pretty tuff stuff,, so I hope/know you're just yanking our chain!
Trying harder everyday.

mike_belben

Well.. With just crossmembers itll become just a two trick pony (logs or lumber only) but if you only need your pony to do two tricks...


How will you keep the rusty steel from staining your lumber packs?  You truly dont need it for anything else? Moving tractor or cars ever?
Praise The Lord

Walnut Beast

Quote from: doc henderson on January 17, 2021, 05:30:05 PM
anyone have tips on the oil bath hubs?
Have a Diamond C trailer with the standard plastic caps and want to upgrade to Valcrum's premium aluminum alloy oil hubcaps? Select your compatible Lippert/Dexter axle here to order the correct Valcrum hubcap for your trailer for an easy upgrade.

Walnut Beast


doc henderson

found some great test "logs" with almost no taper to test out my bunks.  a little heart rot all the way through,  and it is a "black" something.  came from a grain elevator.  My buddy Dallas, did not want to see them go to waste.   no leaves or bark, but some wheat ran out of the center.  had linear rings, not concentric.



 

 

 

it was an hour drive.  the uprights pulled off nice.  we had 3 sold before we got home to friends we thought might need them.  hundred bucks a piece.  a day later Dallas's wife got 200$ each for 3 more on Craig's list, but they have not been picked up yet.  got some dirt on the paint, and they worked well.  will prob. sell as is, although @YellowHammer would prob. quarter saw, and @Southside would house chickens in them.   :D :D :D

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Southside

Seems to be ring diffuse? Probably very rot resistant
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Crusarius

I would love to get my hands on that score. 

mike_belben

all i see is a trailer full of cash. 
Praise The Lord

YellowHammer

All I see are some well made and very sturdy metal bunks!
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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