Deere 540a steering cylinders

[dsroten]

Hey guys!

 Been working on the old skidder, since I finally finished the job I've been beating at, and its rained at least every other day since then.  Fixed a radiator leak, a new seat, new exhaust, rebuilt brake valve, and now the winch (again - stupid thing is getting a complete overhaul this time, tired of soaked brake bands).  I've also noticed my steering cylinders are leaking a bit.  Anyone taken those out and rebuilt them?  I'm not so concerned with the actual rebuilding, but it just doesnt look to me like there is room or much access to get them out.  Anybody done this?  Or better yet, is it possible to remove the ram and leave the body in there?

[ohiowoodchuck]

On my 440b I turned it all the way one way. Unhooked the lines. Disconnected the rod at the back frame, then pushed rod in some. I unbolted the barrel part of the cylinder and it came right out. On my 440b there wasn't enough room to get a tool in there to get the end lose to remove just the rod. 

[snowstorm]

the 440 i had i did they and left the barrel there. they are a pain to get out. if the crone is gone it will still leak and get the packing kit before you take it apart. the rods were an odd dia.

[Grandpa]

The machine has to be turned all the way left to get the right rod out and vice versa.
Be careful starting it back up because the steering will probably take off in one direction or the other until you get the air out.
The cylinders are different with different functions and if memory serves, take different packing kits.
If you have to take the barrels out, you have to drop the belly pan and take the floorboards out.

[ohiowoodchuck]

Grandpa is right on my 440b they take two different packing kits. One cylinder is the actual steering cylinder and the other is buffer cylinder. I did have my belly pan dropped down in the back to help the process. They came right out after I unbolted them. 

[Green Man]

You can find a good price on the cylinder kits at MFP seals, you will need the deere #s. I think each side is a different #. 

I doubt if there is room to turn a spanner wrench with the cylinder in - though I seem to remember the manual suggesting that it is possible. Someone had previously cut a 2" tall by  3" wide slot just behind the front lube port on my 540A machine.  It was just large enough to get a wrench on the cylinder front pin nut. If you can get to the front pin nut through the floor panel area, go that route.

After removing the skid plate you will be able to reach the hose connections from beneath. 2 hoses on the right, one on the left. My right cylinder was wallowed out and needed a collar, shaft, tube, and rebuild. The left required just a seal kit. A big difference in cost. Repair one side at a time, at full turn, - as was mentioned previously. Also, Deere has the spherical bushings if needed.

[mike_belben]

Just a friendly tip.. Dont be afraid to weld a wrench or a sprocket scrap right to a flange nut so that you can get it busted with whatever home made tools are necessary.  A lever and a piece of roller chain can be pretty impressive.  


Search the gland nut for set screws and if there are any remove them entirely.  2 setscrews jammed in series in one thread hole is not uncommon in machinery and will mess you all up until you figure it out. 



Beware the floating gland (that requires the tube end be clamped to grip the gland to unthread the retainer [woods backhoes for instance])  and the snapring gland where you must drive the gland inward to reveal the retaining ring seated in the groove on the ID of the cylinder bore.   

[dsroten]

Thanks for the tips guys.  I was kind of hoping to be able to remove them with the machine sitting straight, as I have the hydraulics apart in other places, and was hoping to save all that bleeding.  I wish I had more time to get back to this thing, busy at work and now just started a house build too.  Next up is to reinstall the brake valve, and I really didn't enjoy removing it lol