Swingblade log leveling

[Biocmp]

For those who have a swingblade, how do you go about log leveling? I'm waiting for the delivery of my swingblade mill.  I have a ton to learn but I'm starting to look into log staging and leveling.  

Assuming I want to saw for highest grade lumber and I want to level the pith/half-taper sawing (I think i'm using the right terminology), how have you guys managed to do that? 

I'm looking at some RV leveling jacks to place on pad or dug out for support blocks. Then put the bunks on top.  Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753WQYMX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A6NSJDJOT8ZP4&psc=1

I was thinking of putting a pair on each end but I don't really see people doing that.  Is it just that most people are sawing for volume with a swinger? Or are people using some type of wedging? 

I don't want to over-engineer but I do want some flexibility with the log handling.  Any suggestions are appreciated!

[longtime lurker]

Lucas or Peterson or Turbosaw style saws you level the saw to the log... wind one end up and the other down until you have the line you want.

With others I have no idea.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Probably most swingblades are set up with the rails level or almost so, as to not have to push the saw uphill or downhill much. 

At least that's what I experienced with Peterson WPF.  So, I was usually adjusting the log up or down at one end as needed, using 2 Hi-Lift jacks opposing one another.  But I was usually doing very large logs and cutting parallel to the pith. 

[Runningalucas]

I'm going to  be changing my set up; the two options I'm looking at is setting up a gooseneck permanently as a mill base for my Lucas, and/or building a dedicated saw house.   

Not sure which way I'm going to go.  The saw house will probably incorporate a track system to load the log onto outside of the mill area, then roll into the mill.  I hate lifting large logs over my rails; it's asking for problems at some point.  Also, either on the trailer, or saw house I want to make it so the mill is perfectly square in all manners to the bed.  In so doing I should be able to take the first few slabs off the top, and rotate the log as I see fit for different desired milling. 

What I've got now, is just a couple 4x6 bunks on the ground, and the mill set up on the ground; basically like anyone would do with portable milling.  It doesn't leave many options, and usually I'm milling up hill, as I place the small end towards the saw carriage, and the larger end away; it's less than ideal. 

I maybe doing the trailer this Summer, and will make a thread on it at that time.

[Ianab]

I keep some scrap boards that I can place under the small end bunk before loading the log. Means you have to guesstimate the amount of taper before you load, but it gets it close. If you want perfect, then you want a high lift jack or FEL and chain to lift the small end and adjust the spacing. 

Other mills, with the moving rail design do allow you to fine tune by winding one and an not the other, but you can only go so far before you are milling up and down hill. 

If you are setting up in a semi permanent spot, with loading rails etc it would be possible to add an adjustable bunk similar to the toe board on a band mill. 

[Don P]

We'll shim a bit under one end if it is seriously tapered but tuning the rail slope to the taper is the final adjustment. We've set up on some hills where it is pretty serious uphill or downhill sawing, makes for a long day if you are really having to push it.

[dgdrls]

What swing mill are you getting?

I run a Lucas,

I put "smaller logs" on wood bunks
Once on the bunks even heavy logs slide pretty easy left and right.
Then I adjust the mill rails, and if needed I use a hi-lift jack and block the log up more if needed.

Bigger logs get rolled in on the ground and I use the hi-lift jack if the rails are too uneven fore and aft.

Good read here as well,  thanks @longtime lurker 
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=109296.msg1708193#msg1708193


D

[scsmith42]

We do a lot of full width slabbing, as well as quartersawing with our swingblade and dedicated slabber, so we usually level the pith to the tracks.

Typically we will study the log before we set it into the bunks, in order to determine how to orientate it.  We will then use nylon lifting slings installed as a choker, with the free eye slid over a forklift fork and aligning them on the log so that they will rotate the log to the correct orientation when we pick it up.

We will then measure from the bottom of the log to the center of the pith in order to determine the delta from end to end, and shim under our bunks accordingly.  After setting the log in the bunks we are usually within 1/4" or so.

I have a 2 x 4 aluminum rectangular tubing extrusion that is cut to fit in-between the guide lips on the rails.  When set in place it provides a consistent surface to measure up from to determine if the pith is level to the tracks.

The other thing that we will do is measure from the center of the pith to the rails, and align the log equidistant on each end.  That way the mill is centered to the pith in two planes, which is important for quartersawing with a swing blade.  

[quadracutter222]

What sort of swing mill have you ordered?

I have three bunk/dog combos, with the second then third slightly lower than the first to eat up some of the log taper.  I suppose with anything quite tapered you could jack up the small end, then wedge it in place.  Sort of like a toe board on a hydraulic bandsaw.

[Walnut Beast]

Seems like four floor jacks with a heavy wood cross tie on top of each on each end would work great for adjustments 

[Walnut Beast]

Seems like four floor jacks with a heavy wood cross tie on top of each on each end would work great for adjustments

Most floor jacks have the center piece that comes out so you could run a large bolt down through and anchor securely on each jack 

[Walnut Beast]

Probably most swingblades are set up with the rails level or almost so, as to not have to push the saw uphill or downhill much.

At least that's what I experienced with Peterson WPF.  So, I was usually adjusting the log up or down at one end as needed, using 2 Hi-Lift jacks opposing one another.  But I was usually doing very large logs and cutting parallel to the pith.

That's a good idea also. One step further you could make a wooden or metal cross piece that attaches the two with a plate on the bottoms of each jack to keep upright. Be careful of the high lift jack many people have been hurt by them

[terrifictimbersllc]

I'd say never use just one Hi-Lift jack with a log.  There's nothing to keep it from swinging sideways.  

However one on each side at one end of the log, where they are facing each other can be very stable. 
 
1-3 clicks at most on one side, go to the other side do the same.  I always had one hand on the upright portion of the jack  and one on the handle when operating one. 

[Biocmp]

Thanks for all of the replies.  I'll be receiving my D&L 1020 Ultrabody w/40 foot of rails and a slabber.  I'm new to all of this so I'm starting serious preparations.  Hoping to build a mill shed right off the bat and I may put in some footers for "permanent" leveling.  Hoping to then build a log deck to make it easier to drop logs over the rails.

Before I do any of that, I want to make sure I have at least a rough idea of how people log handle efficiently once it's setting in front of the carriage. You all have presented some good options and food for thought.

If anyone else has suggestions for log handling and set-up, I'd love to hear them.  We've only got a tractor with FEL to start.  We're looking to upgrade it to a larger model this summer. 

[Walnut Beast]

I'd say never use just one Hi-Lift jack with a log.  There's nothing to keep it from swinging sideways.  

However one on each side at one end of the log, where they are facing each other can be very stable.

1-3 clicks at most on one side, go to the other side do the same.  I always had one hand on the upright portion of the jack  and one on the handle when operating one.

That's where guys get their hand messed up by holding on the upper jack especially if the jack slips

[terrifictimbersllc]

We must not be talking about the same thing. I used 5 foot long jacks, always had one hand at the very top so I could make sure to detect any instability during the 1 to 3 click operation where the operating end of the jack was near the ground. Not putting my hand right over the operating portion of the jack of course. The top of the Jack was always well clear of the log. The point is to hold the jack vertically firmly and make sure that it doesn't slip as you're getting a bite in the log.

PS also only describing lifting the end of a log up with a jack on either side leaning in toward one enother,  only enough to get a shim under it usually 2-4" to level the pith. It is an inherently dangerous operation and I would advise anyone who hasnt done this to operate only in his or her known safety range.    

[Don P]

One setup I've been thinking about would be scissor or hydraulic lift under the bunk and dogs that pinch the log and then can be tracked side to side to line it up.

[quadracutter222]

Thanks for all of the replies.  I'll be receiving my D&L 1020 Ultrabody w/40 foot of rails and a slabber.  I'm new to all of this so I'm starting serious preparations.  Hoping to build a mill shed right off the bat and I may put in some footers for "permanent" leveling.  Hoping to then build a log deck to make it easier to drop logs over the rails.

Before I do any of that, I want to make sure I have at least a rough idea of how people log handle efficiently once it's setting in front of the carriage. You all have presented some good options and food for thought.

If anyone else has suggestions for log handling and set-up, I'd love to hear them.  We've only got a tractor with FEL to start.  We're looking to upgrade it to a larger model this summer.

Thats what I have too and like it very much!
I think your log handling and staging set-up will be determined by the size of logs you most often saw.  I saw mostly 12"-30" doug fir 8'-16' long.  With these logs I built a dead deck I can load 5-10 logs on, that I peavy on to the bunks. With this set up you need bridging arms to span over the rails.  
If you saw mostly large heavy logs, then its likely easier and safer to place them on the mill with the machine one at a time. 
Did you get the metal dogging system?  That is what I have and really like it, but if you had mostly smaller wood, I would look seriously at the rectangular notched bunk system that can hold multiple logs at once.  I have 15 or so 15" firs for framing lumber, that I might switch to the notched bunk so I can load 3 and mill them all at once. 
I measure from the rail to the pith on each end to center the pith left to right.  Either the pith or the center of the log depending on what is to be cut.  

When you first set up the mill, follow the manual, but there are a few things not super clear (at least I found) so reach out here or back to D&L.  Get the rails level and perfect first before putting the carriage on, when you adjusting the horizontal/vertical lead and double cut adjustment, only adjust one thing at a time.  Test it, and tweak again.  You can seriously chase your tail if you try to do it all at once.  A few random thing that will make sense when you get the mill: the black blocks that run on the vertical rails need a dry lubricant or they can cam over and throw lead and the slack sides of the lifting chains need to be finger tight (again too tight can affect lead)

Get good at sharpening early, and check that everything is square when grinding.  This is key to good cuts and not running out the saw.