Milling my T&G flooring and Molding

[Coffee_Creek]

My wife and I was working and living on the road working construction for a major company and decided we needed a place to call home when we retired, we bought a 45 acre hobby farm with a small house that had been pieced together over the years, we knew that when we retired we would build a new house on it, this was in 2011, fast forward to early 2016, I retired and started harvesting trees because I knew I wanted to mill all of our hardwood flooring and molding for the new house, as I was cutting the trees that I wanted cut I was hauling them to a sawmill just a few miles down the road, after months of cutting trees, hauling logs, hauling lumber back and stacking in the barn to air dry, I was ready to start making molding except for one thing, I needed the wood kiln dried so I built a solar kiln and I needed a machine to mill the wood so I purchased the Woodmaster 725 with the theww sided attachment, I am now starting to plane/mill the lumber as it dries, 
in this thread I'll record my process of making and installing all the T&G flooring and molding such as crown, baseboard, window and door trim,
I'll be learning sa I go so any help, advise or suggestions from you guy's will be greatly appreciated.

It may be a days or even weeks between updating due to each step of the process taking some time.

Just starting to plane the lumber down to 3/4"

Rough lumber going in


 

Smooth lumber coming out, each board requires an average of six passes...


 

[Ljohnsaw]

 :P

[Southside]

You may want to consider having an infeed and outfeed table of some sort to support your lumber, it will reduce snipe and make it easier to keep a continuous feed into your planer. I have 14' of rollers on both ends of my machines. Gives you plenty of time to work both sides when running alone.  

[Coffee_Creek]

very little snipe, The Woodmaster has fairly large infeed and outfeed tables with a slight tilt to them to help with snipe,  I set up infeed and outfeed roller tables originally but the bending forward to place and remove the boards was tough on my back so, I went with just a single roller stand on each side spaced about eight feet from planner, this allows me to be right next to the boards and not require bending over just reaching down, much easier on my back this way.

[E-Tex]

Good luck with the T&G flooring project CC.  I've enjoyed your Kiln-Build thread and will be watching this one as well.  Post all the pics you can. 

[Crossroads]

Sounds fun, I look forward to seeing more of your posts 

[DDW_OR]

following
thinking of T&G floors and walls for my 30x24 wood shop

[rjwoelk]

This is something that will be on my list to do as well. Looking forward to your adventure.
Do you rip to size first or plan first?

[DDW_OR]

my 2 cents
if you are using same-width-boards then rip first then plane
if using random width then plane first

[samandothers]

Thanks for taking time to share this!  i look forward to the read and learning.

BTW the Woodmaster is really good!  I notice the board had a knot and more sap wood going in but came out with no know and more heart wood color! ;D 

[Coffee_Creek]

all of my wood is different widths, I tried ripping first using the gang ripper on the woodmaster but it didn't like the different thickness so I'm planning for thickness first then I'll gang rip. 
The board coming out is not the same board that's going in.
All of the lumber looks different prior to planning because I sprayed all my wood with Tim-Bor as I was stacking in the barn, it leaves a slight white powdery look to it.
I agree, the woodmaster is a really nice machine but, I wouldn't want to try mass hardwood floor production with it, it does beat the heck out of doing it with router.....

[rjwoelk]

So what is your yield like from tree to finished flooring. 
Eq.  1000 bf of logs will yield x linear ft of flooring.
I understand it all depends on the logs. But just on average.

[Coffee_Creek]

I'm estimating 50%

[Coffee_Creek]

one issue I needed to take care of was wrapping the steel beam running through our living area with wood, i have several 16" wide rough sawn 1" thick, I planed them down to 1/2" to reduce the weight and used them to wrap the metal beam.....



 

 
The short beams in the pic are soild.

We also added a solid beam in the master bath. Man this was a bear to raise and set in place....



 

[Magicman]

I had a steel beam to wrap on my Cabin Addition. 


 
I failed to get really good pictures but the steel beam is shown above.


 
For the bottom board I laminated seven 1"X1" strips together and then planed it down to ¾".  This manufactured board was then captured between two side boards forming a "U" that covered the beam.  The bottom board gives the illusion of the entire beam being laminated.


 
The Addition ceiling on the left is Pickled (white washed) T&G Ash.

 
Pickled T&G SYP for wall paneling.

[Coffee_Creek]

I read your entire post on your cabin build, nice job.

[Magicman]

I understand.  Often times when I link to that topic I too get caught up in it and will read many pages.  :P

[DDW_OR]

FYI, shine a lazer into a glass door knob.

[Coffee_Creek]

yesterday I planed lumber most of the day but, we did manage to make some progress wrapping the steel beam and get the fireplace completed.
We still need to cover the bottom of the beam.....



 

 

 

 

[DDW_OR]

I saw this where i purchased my TK-2000
could use two sides to wrap a corner



 

[Coffee_Creek]

that's pretty neat.

[Coffee_Creek]

I'll try and recap from the start so maybe this thread won't be confusing.
This is how the house looked when we bought it in 2011.....

[Coffee_Creek]

enclosed the carport a few years ago....



that 








k

[forrestM]

That ceiling looks awesome!

[Coffee_Creek]

Thank you sir,

[Coffee_Creek]

a little over two years ago I started harvesting trees for the lumber I would be using for T&G flooring all the trim for house......

I cut and hauled about twenty loads of logs, pine, sycamore, beech, red oak, white oak and poplar to a sawmill just 3 miles down the road, he did a good job and price was very fair,
I hauled all the lumber back to my pole barn to air dry,
I sprayed each board with Tim-Bor before stacking, this air dried for almost two years.....



j

[Coffee_Creek]

with all the lumber in th barn air drying, I built the solar kiln, I can get 16' lumber in it, being able to dry 16' lumber was nice for long boards I plan to make molding with.....
I posted a thread on the kiln build so I'll only show a few pic's here......

[Coffee_Creek]

Next I added on the existing shop doubling the size.........











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[Coffee_Creek]

Now the fun part begins DEMO!!!!!!
The previous owner built the old house in sections, one side was the living room and kitchen, then he doubled this by adding and addition with two bedrooms and a bath beside it, he poured a large carport in front of it (the one I enclosed) he then ran a large steel beam on each side the entire length and supported it with steel columns, he added trusses and a metal roof, this made the roof like a free standing pavilion type roof over the entire house, I saw no reason to demo a perfectly good roof so my wife designed a new house to fit under it utilizing the existing roof. I came up with a plan on how to demo the old house out from under it.

[Coffee_Creek]

With demo and cleanup finished it time to start putting everything back starting with foundation,framing and drying it in.......

[Coffee_Creek]

[Coffee_Creek]

p

[Crossroads]

You've been busy! It looks nice, I look forward to seeing the finished product 

[boardmaker]

What a great build along.

I always enjoy threads like these. 

[Coffee_Creek]

You've been busy! It looks nice, I look forward to seeing the finished product

Thank you sir, 
I'll post updated pic's as soo as I have time.

[Coffee_Creek]

What a great build along.

I always enjoy threads like these.

Thank you, we're looking forward to project being completed.
We do relax in the evening with a cold drink and watch the animals.

[DDW_OR]

i like the photos, and the covered deck!

i see you use Cuddeback cameras.
i use the Cuddeback CuddeLink, the Black Flash type. CUD-01144
i found that the Long Range IR would flash a single red LED when the battery's where getting low. thus giving way its location.

one thing i dislike about the CuddeLink is it uses 12 AA batteries for each camera.
Costco Kirkland AA 72 pack = $20 = $3.34 per camera.
batteries last 60 days

[Coffee_Creek]

yes sir, it's just what I grabbed off the shelf, I prefer the long range IR and use the optional battery pack that takes 6 D cell, I've used it two years so far onthe same batteries.

[Planman1954]

You get an A+ for documentation photos! Thanks for doing it.

[Coffee_Creek]

You get an A+ for documentation photos! Thanks for doing it.

Thank you sir, I enjoy doing it......

[Coffee_Creek]

finishing out the inside,
we spray foamed all exterior walls, attic was blown in with 16", interior walls we use bat for minimizing sound.













Rocked the fireplace using real rock instead of man made, the mantle is an old sweet gum (I think) cross tie that was used as a fence post in our pasture....













Had the custom cabinets built and installed.....

[Andries]

Beautiful work CC!
You're building a beautiful home.
Question: when the exterior walls are foamed-what is used to shave the foam so that it isn't 'proud' to the framing studs?

[Coffee_Creek]

The company I hired used a battery operated saws all with a long blade, the pic showing a guy on the ladder is using it, the long blackand skinny thing on his left side is the blade, I've also seen people use what looks like a big wishbone with a heated piano wire.

[gdaddy01]

is it closed cell foam ?

[Coffee_Creek]

I went with open cell

[gdaddy01]

do you know the pros and cons of both ?

[Coffee_Creek]

do you know the pros and cons of both ?

The company that did mine said the closed cell has a slightly higher R value but a much higher price and considering where I live, central Alabama, he recommended the open cell.

[doc henderson]

sorry, I tried to add a comp chart.  you all can google it as well.  cost and water permeability is a big diff.  R value and structural stiffness are also a consideration

[DDW_OR]

Difference Between Open Cell And Closed Cell Foam | Foam By Mail

[gdaddy01]

thanks fellows , is the foam in the post the same type stuff used for spare in insulation ? 

[Coffee_Creek]

thanks fellows , is the foam in the post the same type stuff used for spare in insulation ?

I'm not sure what you mean by "spare in insulation"?

[terrifictimbersllc]

probably spray in, blame Siri

[gdaddy01]

yes spray , no bodies fault but mine .