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I started the original Whatcha Sawin' ?? topic with this picture back in 2014. Wow, how many of our logs have become lumber and sawdust in the past 9 years??
My next sawing year will begin busy with 16 firm jobs on the schedule book and six maybe's. I have a whole house SYP framing lumber job sawing mostly 2X6's and a fairly large Cypress job sawing timbers. This one is seven tree length logs of 37' to 56' with the largest butt being 37". I believe that the longest timber will be 16'. It will be a fun job to saw. The furthest job is 107 miles for a repeat customer.
The 2023 topic is now locked so the question is: Whatcha Sawin' 2024 ??
Wait! You locked the old one already? There is still 7+ hours left for this year (out here). :D
Well I evidently slid in and was called safe. I just posted there and it took!
lol
Actually I can not lock it. I sent Jeff a message and he will when he gets a "Round Tuit". ;D
We have a nice pile of White Pine waiting for us will saw on the first day above freezing temps . Randy
With that photo it's like we are going "Back to the Future" :D
Well, hopefully no one else is like me, but 2024 will probably begin with me sawing my logs before they completely disappear. I'll not need the debarker as the bark has slipped off awhile ago.
This is by no means the "Magicman Special " I alluded to closing out 2023. I need to get a bit more information about the upcoming job, and when I do, it's possible a renaming would be appropriate. I most certainly would not want to besmirch the name of a reputable man and his craft.
A site visit last week and initial info from the potential customer immediately popped the title into my brain.
Not to tease, but you know the saying:
"Don't count your chickens before they come out of the fryer..."
I have been disappointed before.
Update asap. Maybe this afternoon or tomorrow.
CC
Currently, no log sawing planned, yet.
Jim Rogers
I'm taking the winter off. 8)
Georgia and I helped with a new year's party at my MILs restaurant/bar in Kingman, Ks. She is selling and the new owners were there. She will work with the new owners for a few weeks. We got home about 2am.... and I sawed logs all night, and just woke up a while ago. :)
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she is on the left, 80 years old, and keeps all the young drinkers in line.
Quote from: doc henderson on January 01, 2024, 10:20:16 AM
she is on the left, 80 years old, and keeps all the young drinkers in line.
No doubt she can handle just about any situation... bat_smailey
We have her on life 360 so we can keep track of her. She got home at 04:30.
I spent a minutes Saturday moving a medium size white oak to the mill for today, More importantly, Menu is hog jaws-collards, BE peas, cornbread and ham. God has given us a beautiful day. It's going to be a great year!! JH
Quote from: Sixacresand on January 01, 2024, 01:09:28 PM
More importantly, Menu is hog jaws-collards, BE peas, cornbread and ham. God has given us a beautiful day. It's going to be a great year!! JH
Amen!
And pass the buttermilk.
8)
I'm thinkin hog jowls and collard greens. Yuummm!!
First batch of pine, 10 foot material on right, 8 foot on left...all I was able to do was 3 logs. This could take me the rest of my life :D
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This morning I did 2 walnut logs 8' x 18" and 11 ft x 23", first was two 6" thick boards and several white 1-1/8" thick.
Second was four 4" x 11' and top and bottom bench slab scraps. All live edge. Customer very happy.
In and out in 3 hr wasnt trying to rush anything.
He put all 6 boards in back of a van and the springs were still not quite flattened straight. Back doors didnt close but he only had 15 miles to go.
37 miles from home, wife helped me set up and pack up and she got the $20 tip.
Dont think I sawed on new years day before.
Happy new year! :) :) :)
Got a whack of logs accumulating. All tulip poplar. There's a two red oak logs, two maples and 6 or 8 more tulip poplar logs to skid out.
I'm thinking solar kiln.
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Ted
Does that top butt log belong to me? It has a ID tag like mine tend to have.
:D
CC
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Saved this 22" walnut for today, lots of rotating but I was able to get some very nice boards out of it
Very nice indeed.
Your log or a customer?
Quote from: Magicman on December 31, 2023, 06:10:42 PM
Actually I can not lock it. I sent Jeff a message and he will when he gets a "Round Tuit". ;D
Is dis da "Round Tuit" you speak of @Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) ? ;D
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Yup dat's da very one but I guess dat Jeff found his. :snowball:
Picked up 8 walnut logs 16"- 24" in return he wanted a few gun stock blanks. Figured it was a good trade.
still cutting spruce for my wood shop build. get some pics later.
Wishful that we all have a great 2024. Planning to retire at the end of the year,then I will have time to be half as busy as M.M. :D
So after you retire you may think that it will be five o'clock everywhere, but in actuality, it will be five o'clock nowhere. My advice is to tighten your drawers string because you will be in for a rough ride. :D
I work for a cruel taskmaster. ::)
Quote from: Magicman on January 02, 2024, 12:52:33 PM
I work for a cruel taskmaster. ::)
Wow! I didn't realize she had been crossing state lines. She gets back home quick!
If you get bored during retirement, you are doing it wrong!
Quote from: SawyerTed on January 02, 2024, 07:41:44 PM
If you get bored during retirement, you are doing it wrong!
Wise words :)
Quote from: richhiway on January 02, 2024, 11:52:46 AM
Planning to retire at the end of the year, then I will have time to be half as busy as M.M. :D
I hope you fail at retirement as amny of us have done. Then and only then will you not be bored.
GAB
How the heck did I spend 40-50 hours a week doing whatever was so important plus everything else that was/is truly important?
I failed so I suppose that I am a "retirement dropout".
Quote from: SawyerTed on January 01, 2024, 04:11:24 PM
Got a whack of logs accumulating. All tulip poplar. There's a two red oak logs, two maples and 6 or 8 more tulip poplar logs to skid out.
I'm thinking solar kiln.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/IMG_2281.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1704143404)
I have thoughts of a small solar kiln in the future. Keep us updated!
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Been doing this as a hobby for a while now. So far I have cut my own logs or picked up free ones. I plan on buying logs and getting a little busier starting this year. So I figured I better start paying attention to a logs yield.
Still on the Spruce pile.
Richiway, the good news is that pretty much every scale favors the sawmill, as far as I can tell anyhow.
The nice thing about a thin kerf band mill is it can beat the scales in the hands of a good sawyer.
We should be able to get 20% over Doyle and Scribner blindfolded with bandmills🙂
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We are dodging the weather but as of now I am scheduled to begin a Cypress job Tuesday. This is 7 tree length logs from 37' to 56' with the largest butt being 36". I do not know the cut list but I do know that there will be some beams/timbers and the longest lengths will be 16. What a way to start the year because I loves sawing Cypress. :)
Man, is that beautiful stuff Magic!
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I got the mill back up and running so I opened up an Ash log, had 3 clear sides and an off center pith. The last side had this laughing face. Supposed to snow this weekend so I may be done for awhile.
WOW! I never get ANYTHING like that in ash and I have milled a bunch of it! You lucky dog, make something sweet with it. Nice chunk of wood!
So what was the fix on the mill?
Full dimension red and white pine 2x4x16' for uprights on shipping crates (they get cut down to 2-6' and 1-4'). Boring, but they pile up fast and pay the bills👍 These go to a local outfit that buys decorative white birch poles, and ships them nationwide. They even shipped a container to the Netherlands recently.
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Quote from: barbender on January 04, 2024, 10:56:36 PM
. . . a local outfit that buys decorative white bitch poles, and ships them nationwide. They even shipped a container to the Netherlands recently. . .
Oh, that spell check must've been on siesta.
OTH , I was born in the Netherlands, so I'll check in with some relatives to see if there's some cultural traditions that have slipped past me.
😁😉😁
Oh it was spelled correctly. :P :D
Rust, crud, various corrosion removal on the charging surfaces. It bucked and missed a little bit the first 30 to 45 seconds but ran satisfactorily when warmed up. It just needs a roof over its head.
I was finally able to go verify the "Magicman Special"....
The potential customer called me yesterday with a couple of questions and said they had managed to drop a few trees and he was in the process of bucking, limbing and cleaning up.
I went for another site evaluation today. His cut list was primarily 6"x12" beams...loblolly pine.
Side lumber 1xs and some 2x8s.
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All of them...
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25" small end.
27" large end.
20ft in length.
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Largest DBH still standing.
I won't say I'm nervous...but I'm heading into uncharted territory.
He's consulting a couple of builders familiar with beams. Possibly adjust the length down.
MM - I am persuaded EVERYTHING you saw is a Magicman Special - so I will rename my topic if appropriate.
CC
Anything goes my Friend. When I saw the trees I was concerned, but the growth rings dispelled any reservations that I might have had. Those are truly "special". thumbs-up
Hopefully they will all be tight grained like the above. :)
The pics of those logs qualify as sawyers porn!
Yes Sir, those logs qualify as Magical, Special, Exceptional, or any other description that one chooses to use. 8)
Andries, why does spell check never come through for me when I need it, but then change words that I do mean to write?🤷😂
I'm going to get in trouble with Jeff for writing swear words!😁
You would probably git an extended Admin timeout. smiley_whip
Someone did a nice job clearing that land CC. As far as your poles go Barbender that's too funny, around here you see birch firewood that came from that Netherplace all bundled up and sold in retail stores.
The irony🤷
Quote from: barbender on January 05, 2024, 11:20:25 PM
Andries, why does spell check never come through for me when I need it, but then change words that I do mean to write?🤷😂
I'm going to get in trouble with Jeff for writing swear words!😁
BB:
I have a suggestion for you, remember this is only a suggestion;
Prior to using the post button read and reread what you are about to post.
It just might reduce your penalty box time.
I do and still miss things. GGRRRR
GAB
GAB- thanks. Often I'm guilty of not proof reading my posts, but I had actually went over this one. I actually didn't know what was being referred to, and had to read through it a couple of times before WHOA! there it is!😂😂😂
My wife is threatening to join the Forum just so she can watch people make fun of me😁😂
Barbender, what county are you from. I would watch the "white beaches of Barbender county" 8) :) :D
Maybe Jeff can find a function to summarize the ridicule for each member for the year, we give to our wives as a gift at Christmas. :)
Rough Crowd.....
:D :D :D :D
Quote from: barbender on January 06, 2024, 10:57:33 AM
My wife is threatening to join the Forum just so she can watch people make fun of me😁😂
I wonder if Jeff has seen that as a reason for joining!
GAB
Good one GAB!!! :)
My wife tried to join a couple years ago during the Project at Jakes.
She listed her reason for joining as "To keep an eye on SawyerTed" or something similar!
WHD aka Danny BLOCKED her believing her to be a stalker! :D :D :D :D
Well, WHD wasn't necessarily wrong, in a sense😂
If I'm getting some guff, please always realize that I'm getting what I give so no sympathy for me. That's what my wife would say, anyhow😁
Doc, "White Beaches of Barbender County" has a nicer ring to it than, "White Beaches of Itasca County"🤷 You go with whichever you like☺️
Or maybe the "12,000-pound winches of West Virgina". :snowball: What say you, Howard. :)
As usual, Danny was prob. right. keep your head on a swivel Ted. :o :o :o
Ted, I sent her packin' da first time for lack of reason, then poor Danny thought she was a stalker 'cause she came right back with da reason you gave. :D :D :D :D
THAT is even funnier! :D :D :D :D
She met Danny at the Project and they worked it out, I think. :D :D
As far as I know she's never logged in.
i think my wife joined after that as well. there was a group of the ladies that went on several "walks"! I thought they were trying to be healthy. I now realize it may have been a conspiracy. :)
It's not over....
. . . and it never will be.
Gawd, aren't we the lucky ones!
Geez Doc, how long you been married? ANYTIME two or more of 'them' are together it means rough times, or at a least a roasting for 'us'. :D
Actually this whole conversation begs the questions as to how many of us have spouses who are on the forum? I know there are one or two, but if I knew my wife was or MIGHT read my postings here I would certainly be a bit more tempered in what I share. I share a lot of stuff here I never share with her (mostly because she either doesn't bother listening, it sounds like white noise to her, or she sees no interest in it whatsoever) but there are some things I would rather she did not know. In the back of my mind I know my kids may find this site or one of my prior blogs after I am dead and look into my posts. I'm OK with that, they have a sense of humor and know their Dad was always a half bubble off plumb anyway. But the wife? Eh, maybe not so much.
Something to think about anyway.
Quote from: barbender on January 06, 2024, 10:57:33 AM
My wife is threatening to join the Forum just so she can watch people make fun of me😁😂
Tell her to post pictures of you in the hat. :D
PatD has been a member for several years, but there is a Granddaughter that logs on quite often. She keeps close tabs on what's goin' on. :P.
The thread with Tom the Sawyer has been a God send to him and his wife, even though he can no longer navigate electronics well.
Lynn, maybe it will be the granddaughter that takes over Papa's sawmilling business. smiley_gorgeous
One of the questions that I ask myself sometimes is "what's the point?"
I've beaten myself into the ground for 10 years building this thing,and I've probably got another 10 years of working myself into the ground to get it to where I want it. Neither of my daughters is interested in the business (and I can't blame them because they saw how tough I did it doing the uphill pushing before it started rolling) which leaves me wondering exactly what I'm trying to achieve sometimes.
I mean I could pull my head in, slow.down and coast along making a comfortable living until I didn't want to do it anymore. Or I can keep going where I'm going building myself the most perfect of hamster wheels until it kills me eventually.
The idea that a kid, or a grandkid (those haven't happened yet) or some keen youngun would be interested in taking what I'm building and carrying it forward is something that would be very fulfilling, and maybe make some of my sacrifices worthwhile. A man would like to think he's left behind more than a mountain of sawdust no?
Having a grandkid interested would be fantastic.
I had potentials but they have developed a much higher income producing business so my little sawdust producing business will fade by the wayside.
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We can not direct nor predict the future, only live our lives and be comfortable in our own shoes.
Well you can certainly be proud of them Lynn.
In the end I suppose as long as we guide the next generation(s) to be people of high integrity and prepare them for a career they can excel at and hopefully better themselves beyond what we have then we have succeeded.
Sometimes my Son (now 22) surprises me with what he knows and what I can learn from him.
If I'm getting some guff, please always realize that I'm getting what I give so no sympathy for me. That's what my wife would say, anyhow😁
I just thought that the "R" is silent in the Minnesota dialect.......
Quote from: doc henderson on January 06, 2024, 06:33:25 PM
Or maybe the "12,000-pound winches of West Virgina". :snowball: What say you, Howard. :)
As usual, Danny was prob. right. keep your head on a swivel Ted. :o :o :o
Doc,
Sorry, I just noticed this. And in response: "No Comment" ;)
Olcowhand, the Minnesota accent makes full use of the "R". If it is in a word, we are saying it!😂 One could make the case that we make use of the r's that folks in New England don't use😁
Rs and gs have been endangered for a long time in many accents. In a place called Pine Hall, NC, 10 or 12 miles from here, they are nearly forgotten. Their accent is distinctly theirs and has been for decades.
Same with a place called Robersonville, NC. I was in Alaska, on a cruise, and heard a group of men and women talking. I stopped in my tracks and asked if they were from NC. They were and I asked if they were from Robersonville. They were genuinely shocked. No Rs - but "ah" instead and not a g at then of any word.
What rubs me wrong is the loss of Ts among some groups of millennials! Moun'ans instead of mountains makes me turn the channel from our local news. There are a couple of young 30ish women news persons who slip and forget their Ts.
You use your O's too.
Quick true story:
PatD and I were high up on a Colorado mountain and met another hunter. We chatted for a bit and I asked him what part of Minnesota he was from? He asked how I knew that he was from Minnesota and I replied, "the way you talk". He said that he knew that we were from the South, but he could not tell the state, maybe Texas.
After we parted ways, Pat said, "you ought to be ashamed of yourself". I asked "why" and she said, "you know very well that you saw the tag on his truck when we parked".
Ted, for the most part, we have also lost our T's and ing's. Moun'uns & shoo'un'. It is quite common for me to overhear two people talking and not understand any of the conversation.
Sounds like me and my wife!
We drop g's a lot. Shootin', fishin', etc.
I've had people call my accent out many, many times. And I don't think they saw my license plate, either😁
The fad type of language changes are a huge pet peeve of mine.
Quote from: SawyerTed on January 08, 2024, 05:44:53 PMWhat rubs me wrong is the loss of Ts among some groups of millennials! Moun'ans instead of mountains makes me turn the channel from our local news. There are a couple of young 30ish women news persons who slip and forget their Ts.
All the kids around here live in "Mann-unn"......
Quote from: barbender on January 08, 2024, 05:30:24 PM
Olcowhand, the Minnesota accent makes full use of the "R". If it is in a word, we are saying it!😂 One could make the case that we make use of the r's that folks in New England don't use😁
Just for the record: that's only Mass and Maine - just sayin... ;)
Quote from: jpassardi on January 09, 2024, 07:15:46 AM
Quote from: barbender on January 08, 2024, 05:30:24 PM
Olcowhand, the Minnesota accent makes full use of the "R". If it is in a word, we are saying it!😂 One could make the case that we make use of the r's that folks in New England don't use😁
Just for the record: that's only Mass and Maine - just sayin... ;)
What's a "R"?
Jpassardi, I'm pretty sure I've heard some New Hampshire and Vermont residents getting real light in the "r's" too😁
For the record, this is what is called "rhoticism" by linguists. If you pronounce r's it is rhotic, if you drop them it is non-rhotic.
Language fascinates me. For instance, why are British and North American accents so different, and accents so different regionally in America. One thing I found interesting, is the theory that modern American speech may be more similar to the common speech that English settlers brought across, than modern British. That is to say, British has changed more.
While their obviously no recordings of what speech sounded like in 1650, linguists piece things together by comparing poetry and things like that, that gives an indication of how a word was pronounced then.
British English was rhotic (they pronounced their r's) up until the mid 1800's. From what I understand, it was the London elites that began dropping r's, and that began to spread with the advent of radio. England supposedly had a lot of markedly different regional accents, often village by village.
If you made a Brit say their r's, it would immediately cause them to sound less uppity😁
While I'm not well studied in linguistics, I am fascinated by the accents/dialects from a historical view especially in this neck of the woods.
Tidewater Virginia, Eastern NC and the Low Country of SC all have similar but distinctive accents. Of course the Gullah of the Low Country have an dialect/language of their own.
The Downeast (Carteret County) and Hyde County (Ocracoke) accents are featured in this NCSU Linguistics Project video. The more isolated the population, the more likely the Carolina Brogue will still be spoken. There's lots of letters left out or added to their words.
THE CAROLINA BROGUE (full movie) - YouTube (https://youtu.be/Bhqv7LRQpec?si=F-f_IHTjprlIdf3W)
I do spend a lot of time in these areas but I'm still a dingbatter. :).
Quote from: barbender on January 09, 2024, 09:45:05 AM
. . . If you made a Brit say their r's, it would immediately cause them to sound less uppity😁
There's a lot of those London Elites up here. Archibald Highnostril will
always find a way to be better than the rest.
Um... is anyone sawing any lumber? ???
My mill is taking it's winter nap, and currently getting covered with snow. :snowman:
We sawed three big White pine logs yesterday just to get them out of the yard so I could plow snow we may not saw again until warmer weather arrives again. Randy
It's been pouring rain since before daylight. We are on inch 2. Thundering but haven't seen lightning, yet.
2 inches of rain coming over 18hr starting now according to forecast. Of course it isn't actually raining yet. Radar looks like gets here around 2pm.
Here in central Alabama we got 4 inches of rain last night with some wind. I've not seen any damage.....from my windows.
Very windy here today at the coast of NC.
Supposed to be until 9pm or later.
No raining hard but wet out.
Jim Rogers
Rain and winter mix here. I bucked a big 12' poplar log off a tree I had down in the woods but have not tried to drag it down yet. I'll saw and use it on my shed project.
My son lives 10 miles away and had bad wind last night and power and water have been out since 1:30 this morning. We're okay here and I have a well and back up genset so we would be okay even if the lines go down.
The word is that we got over 5" of rain last night. :o
Quote from: Resonator on January 09, 2024, 11:08:18 AMUm... is anyone sawing any lumber? ???
Yes, I sawed today.
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I started my New Sawing Year with this 23" top X 16' Cypress log.
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16' X 2X8's.
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Various beams & timbers. Total scaled, 1555 bf. There were two other whacks that I did not picture nor scale yet.
I'll be back at 7 tomorrow morning and hopefully we will finish this job Thursday. We have rain Friday and 14° weather predicted for next week, so I would rather warm the fire.
I am sawing when weather cooperates. Here's a 10 foot length of SYP...started out at 26 in. And squared it to 20x20. Cutting 40-1X10s (of course with some later trimmed to eliminate wane)
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3" here and had a tornado warning came across the phone earlier, ironically when it was calm out. I was closing up birds thinking - oh this is great. As far as accents go - Maine has quite the variety. You go Down East and one would swear they have marbles in their mouth, far north and it's Franglaise, half Canadian-French, half English, Allagash however has the most unique accent of all. The town is 30 or so miles west of Ft Kent, but you would never know it with the "twang" a native "Moosetowner" has, it's ummm... interesting.
I prefer the cold to the nasty ice storms that many of you get in milder areas.
I have a couple thousand feet of pine I'd like to saw tomorrow. The high should be around 20°. I think it is good sawing weather, aside from getting machines started and warmed up. Softwoods saw better frozen, down to the point around 0° where sawdust starts to freeze to the blade😁
I had foot surgery last month. Just before that, I removed the loader and backhoe subframes off of my Mahindra so I could take it to the local dealer for a clutch R&R while I was recuperating.
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Hopefully I will get in back in a few days.
I did manage to saw a ERC bar for my log supplier's new house.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Cedar_Pool_Table_Bar~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1704858427)
It will go into the pool table room as a narrow bar.
I went into my gallery and rotated the photo upright, but how do I save it like that? It keeps coming out on it's side.
You might have to delete the photo in the post, and re add the edited one from your gallery, Brandi. I'm not sure- a tech whiz I ain't ☺️
I deleted the photo from the post, then rotated it 90 degrees, then put it in the post again and it came out back on it's side. I am missing something after I rotate it, but can't find what that is.
When I first moved to Massachusetts in the 1990s, I was so fascinated by the accent. I made up my own linguistic theory about Rs, though. It's common knowledge that Rs are like energy- they cannot be created nor destroyed. They just move from one word to another. So every time someone pahks the cah in Hahvahd Yahd, those displaced Rs reappear in other words. For example, I worked with a guy whose wife was introduced to me as Linder. (Linda) And if you multiply a rectangle's base and height, you get the airier. (area). I think you get the idear.
Local trivia knowledge - Harvard Yard is surrounded by a tall wrought iron fence with pedestrian-only gates. Yuh cahn't even drive yeh cah in theyah, nevahmind pahk it.
Re: Sawing in 2024- nothing yet. I was thinking about an unusual sawing project but I decided against it. I made some slide out drawers to fit inside a cabinet. I failed to account for the drawer slides so my drawers were a little too wide. Well, deep actually, because the drawers are going to be mounted sideways. Anyway, I got the drawers (like miniature bookshelves in shape) all built and realized they were too deep. How to make them the right depth without taking them all apart? I was thinking I could mount them to the sawmill bed and slice the fronts off of them. In the end I redesigned the mounting system to avoid the need to do that. Has anyone got any good stories of sawing things other than logs on their mills?
See picture, the miniature bookshelf was 6" deep but needed to be 5.5". I thought I might be able to just sneak past all the finish nails that hold the shelves in.... probably a bad idea!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32289/IMG_1751.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1704861254)
Brandi- sorry, I'm not much help with this stuff. Someone else more adept will be along🙂
alecs, I think your theory on r's is spot on. I notice speakers of British English do the same. "Presenters" on the BBC sounded a little silly saying things like, " it was fah, fah, out on the peninsular"🤷
Quote from: Bindian on January 09, 2024, 11:14:33 PM
I deleted the photo from the post, then rotated it 90 degrees, then put it in the post again and it came out back on it's side. I am missing something after I rotate it, but can't find what that is.
Keep the photo you have, but go back into your gallery and use the "Rotate" function there. Then go back and refresh your view of the post, and it should have changed.
There are some weird things that seem to get added into the .jpeg info by modern cameras, where a picture is tagged with portrait / landscape as it's taken. Then different software may or may not act on that info, and may or may not rotate the picture automatically. But if you get the picture looking right in the gallery, it should look right in the post.
Two (of the engine/front wheels) are right, and one is on its side. Selection may be the problem. ??
Quote from: Ianab on January 10, 2024, 12:29:21 AM
Quote from: Bindian on January 09, 2024, 11:14:33 PM
I deleted the photo from the post, then rotated it 90 degrees, then put it in the post again and it came out back on it's side. I am missing something after I rotate it, but can't find what that is.
Keep the photo you have, but go back into your gallery and use the "Rotate" function there. Then go back and refresh your view of the post, and it should have changed.
There are some weird things that seem to get added into the .jpeg info by modern cameras, where a picture is tagged with portrait / landscape as it's taken. Then different software may or may not act on that info, and may or may not rotate the picture automatically. But if you get the picture looking right in the gallery, it should look right in the post.
That worked, Ianab! Thanks!
Quote from: Resonator on January 09, 2024, 11:08:18 AMUm... is anyone sawing any lumber?
Sorry @Resonator (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37685) I didn't mean to start a whole new "Meandering" on this thread related to the pronunciation (or lack thereof...) of the letter "R". I just didn't see anything positive that could have resulted in the fact that we started with a mis-spelled word, then immediately went into a discussion about our wives. My bride sometimes reads these posts, and I didn't want to answer any questions about how that transpired.
Quote from: Bindian on January 09, 2024, 10:47:32 PMI did manage to saw a ERC bar for my log supplier's new house.
That is an awesome bar top, and you hit the mark sawing it. thumbs-up
Quote from: olcowhand on January 10, 2024, 07:32:54 AMI didn't mean to start a whole new "Meandering" on this thread related to the pronunciation (or lack thereof...) of the letter "R".
But you can't leave the R out of lumber, just don't work. There is no R in food and we did not even get there yet.
Quote from: Magicman on January 10, 2024, 07:39:02 AM
Quote from: olcowhand on January 10, 2024, 07:32:54 AMI didn't mean to start a whole new "Meandering" on this thread related to the pronunciation (or lack thereof...) of the letter "R".
But you can't leave the R out of lumber, just don't work. There is no R in food and we did not even get there yet.
Well, Lynn- the new thread is young, and I'm sure we'll get around to all that other stuff. I was just hoping to steer the discussion into a different tack. Sort of like putting a little "English" on the ball......
No worries, just good to see some lumber being sawn to keep those not sawing inspired. smiley_thumbsup
Back to sawing Cypress this morning:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5075~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704919425)
A very nice Cypress, and how 'bout by tailgunner? He stands 6' 7". :o
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5076~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704919430)
I think that this one has a problem. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5077~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704919434)
And it did.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5078~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704919443)
Ready to saw a whack of 2X6's. I sawed forty 1 9/16" X 6"from this log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5080.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704919445)
1117 bf of 2X4's & 2X6's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5079.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704919439)
Misc 8' and 10' lumber that I have not scaled yet.
We had to stop at noon today but tomorrow should be a full day. I have seven 16' logs left and will be sawing 2X8's, 4X4's and random width 1".
No pictures because I lost my camera. (I later remembered it was in my hunting gear I had put away on 31 December when our deer season ended so all is well.) I dragged down one previously bucked 12' poplar log. It was about 24" in diameter SED and I cut 268 bf of lumber from it. All 2X4s (Actually I saved 3-2X2s) and 1X12's. I should have cut more 4/4 and less 2X4s.
My hydraulics were very slow and weak to start with. I had to use the FEL to help load the log and had to turn it by hand the first time. As it got smaller the hydraulics seemed to work okay plus the whole engine and hydraulic oil warmed up. It was actually a real nice day out there. The weather was cool but there was some sun. The ground is still muddy and it was scary dragging the log down but I kept it pointed straight and it did not try to roll away on the steep hillside.
I stacked and stickered the 2X4s and took the 1X12's to the barn and put most of them up today so I can use a few more bins I built out there last week. (Did you know Siding goes up real fast when it is 12" wide?) I see I will still have to cut another log to have enough sheeting to make 2 doors. One is 48" and the other is about 45". I only have one set of hinges now so I'll make one frame and partially sheet it and worry about the other one later.
I don't know what is up with my hydraulics but I see did not replace a gallon of the hydraulic fluid yet for winterization as I am supposed to so I will try that first. They worked but slow and weak and killed the engine at first and I had to jump it off so I may be looking at a battery in the not too distant future.
I used to have my belt slip on the hydro pump when cold. tightened that up, and then it shredded next time it was cold. now I put an engine block mag. heater on the tank hours before I saw, and everything works great. Katz.
No belts on the WM system that I can find so that's not going to fix my problem. ::)
the belt is the evidence that you need to warm the fluid if it is cold. that is what I assume killed your engine and made it run slow. the cold hydraulic oil.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7663.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1705018100)
I use the bigger one on the hydraulic tank. even if on overnight, the tank just feels warm to touch. runs like summer. be sure and remove it before milling legs off a bench, especially if they have wedged through tenons! :snowball: :D :D :D
My Cypress job is out of the Schedule Book and into the Invoice Book. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5082~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1705020641)
My tailgunner bringing the last two 16' logs. All of the lumber is dead stacked and will be moved to an open shed for stickering.
4118 bf sawed in 2½ days. Certainly not a record but not too shabby with only one tailgunner.
I parked the sawmill at home and will tighten the drive belt and replace a LubeMizer check valve before I saw again, which will not be next week with 14° forecast for a couple of days....Yikes !!!
WV
What you described is almost exactly what I experienced the previous day. Rain overnight and cold rain/snow mix early. I decided to give it a go when the sun peeked through a few times.
The engine cranked normally and when I began to use the hydraulics- slow and I could hear the engine struggling. A few minutes later the display on my Setworks began to act funky. Up/down and power feed jerky or non responsive. I would push the head to another position on the strip...staccato functions. The response was actually somewhat better on auxiliary vs normal operating key position.
My thoughts were the battery or alternator. The switch is maybe 20 hours old so I wasn't concerned about it.
I pulled the battery and put it on charger/maintainer.
Yesterday I put the battery on and tried again.
1) it was sunny and maybe 5-10 degrees warmer.
2) the mill had a chance to dry somewhat.
I've had issues occasionally with wet foggy conditions and the hydraulics. The mill is outside the majority of the time
3) the battery was fully charged
The functions were better but I still had spots with slow or no function.
I had came prepared to address the copper strip as I usually do with the Scotch Brite pad...but I decided to try something new first.
I had a can of spray electronic contact cleaner I had picked up for another application.
I sprayed the copper strip and engaged F/R a couple of times. The hydraulics functioned noticeably better. I sprayed the strip and the contact block especially...and while in motion.
I now have excellent function everywhere except the one problematic area that I have learned to avoid. I feel like this is a grounding issue and will address it indoors.
I was going to post the question about using contact cleaner but opportunity to do it here seemed appropriate.
Doc's advice on fluid temperature is probably more relevant for you but I was impressed with the results of the spray.
CC
CC,
It has been a month or so since I ran the mill. It lives outside under a nylon cover I bought from WM when I got the mill (and probably should replace due to the number of patches from burn holes and such). The last time I ran it I had to jump it off but this time it fired right up. I let it idle while I rolled the log on the arms. It lifted it about half way but no more so I got the FEL and helped and the arms would raise a little more till I got loaded but the claw would not turn it or the clamp slide it over. While doing that I ran the clamp or claw all the way down and it killed the engine which would not re-start do I drove my truck over and jumped it. I got the log in place and sawed the first slab and a couple of flitches. The engine was running good and the blade cut good. I turned it 90 degrees and had to manually move it over to get it tight against the side supports. I clamped (probably light but adequate) and sawed another slab then a flitch or two and rotated again. This time it was easier because the mill and oil was warm and the cant was getting lighter with every cut. I cut more then rotated with no problems on any system then one more rotation to align the heart check and sawed to the rails.
The engine and head cut normally. Only the hydraulics were not working properly or at normal speed. I got some phone calls and had to shut the mill off a couple of times and it stated back immediately. I had 1.6 engine hours on the mill when I finished the log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52943/20240111_164212.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1705023857)
Milled 2000 BF of Ash for 2nd Floor decking of a barn I'm going to build. 12, 10 and 8 foot random width. Pine siding milled and stickered. Next: red oak studs rafters and joists.
Very nice whack stack!
jpassardi
Do you see a good line-up of stickers and load transferred down to the supporting bolsters at the ground? I do not.
Hope that doesn't cause boards to be warped.
Quote from: doc henderson on January 11, 2024, 07:10:15 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7663.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1705018100)
I use the bigger one on the hydraulic tank. even if on overnight, the tank just feels warm to touch. runs like summer. be sure and remove it before milling legs off a bench, especially if they have wedged through tenons! :snowball: :D :D :D
When sizing in tank immersion heaters for hydraulic reservoirs, you typically never want to exceed 20 Watts per inch of element length. This is to avoid scorching the oil. I only mention this to point out that you must be careful when using other types of heaters because too much heat concentrated in a small area can degrade the oil.
Quote from: beenthere on January 11, 2024, 11:56:38 PM
jpassardi
Do you see a good line-up of stickers and load transferred down to the supporting bolsters at the ground? I do not.
Hope that doesn't cause boards to be warped.
I'm aware and figured someone might comment but the 8s can't be fully lined up with the 10s and 12s. They're going to go on their own pile but I just had to get them all covered before rain came.
Doc - There ain't no freak in fries on that WM hydraulic system that WV has. :D
@WV Sawmiller (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=28064), if you haven't check that bottom rail contact.
My 35 did something similar with slow hydraulics and dying battery, I replaced the battery in the middle of a job. The problem returned in the afternoon. Turned out I had neglected that bottom rail contact.
When operating in cold weather it is a good idea to warm the hydraulic oil. Definitely should change the oil and filter and or clean any pick up screen in the fall. Synthetic oils help.
Also you can buy snowplow hydraulic oil that stays fluid to below zero.
Electric hydraulic systems only run on demand so the oil will never warm up as in a tractor that is continuously circulating the oil.
Thick oil puts a huge electrical load on your system.
If you want to prove it to yourself just leave a quart of tranny fluid outside when it is below 25 degrees and try to pour it. It will be like honey. At zero, it will not pour.
Always service all your equipment before cold weather, winter is hard on everything.
Also if you think your battery is getting weak, change it. Half bad batteries keep the starter and alternator guys in business. They also cause voltage spikes and all kinds of electrical demons. Electric hydraulic systems put a high demand on electrical systems. It is like starting your car a hundred times a day.
Getting to the end of the Spruce logs.
Warming up the diesel on a cool morning. Love that sound.
cool morning at the sawmill. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/ZAueSjZ0I1c?si=Dr6Q9EDmNZk97uhe)
Quote from: Magicman on January 10, 2024, 07:35:38 AM
Quote from: Bindian on January 09, 2024, 10:47:32 PMI did manage to saw a ERC bar for my log supplier's new house.
That is an awesome bar top, and you hit the mark sawing it. thumbs-up
Thanks Lynn! He picked it up yesterday and loved it. I should get an installation photo in a week or so.
No mill sawing, but I did give the 290 Farm Boss and the 462 a workout today. The 290 is no match for the 462, but way easier to tote around the woodpile.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/White_Oak_Firewood.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1705190149)
White Oak firewood. Going to my daughter's tomorrow before Monday's freezing rain.
Yup Tim, I believe that all of us "Non-Glaciated" members will be staying close to a fire this week. fire_smiley
There my be a few of us glaciated members that will be staying close to the fire to.
Quote from: Magicman on January 14, 2024, 02:41:17 PM
Yup Tim, I believe that all of us "Non-Glaciated" members will be staying close to a fire this week. fire_smiley
8* here this morning. Sunny some snow tomorrow, lows in the single digits the rest of the week. Probably mill some in the afternoons.
I see ole mis is having some winter, stay warm, MM.
It was about -20° F here this morning, thanks Andries for sending it😁
Barbender, when it's this pretty outside, a guy just has to share, right?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20180114_155928.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1517495828)
Sun dogs at Deer River today?
-7° air temp (before wind chill) when I went out plowing this morning. Only thing I'm cutting today is snow drifts. :snowman:
-7° here as well this am. wave res, and I will see if I can see you. we muat not be too far aprat if we are the same temp! :D
My Sawmill said "I ain't sawin' nutin"....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/100_0210.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1267041239)
And I'm staying home with it. ;D
Good idea.. me either
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/Snow_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1705430411)
.
Quote from: Magicman on January 16, 2024, 08:54:48 AM
My Sawmill said "I ain't sawin' nutin"....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/100_0210.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1267041239)
MM,
You took your sawmill to the Colorado Elk hunt? ;)
Looks like it, but it ain't talking. :-X
When is the last time you had that much on the ground Magic?
It has been cold enough that we still have 6 inches on the yards and shady spots on the roads. got a dusting last night, but covered sidewalks as it was cold. often, we only have a day or two of snow on the ground.
Quote from: Southside on January 16, 2024, 10:13:37 PMWhen is the last time you had that much on the ground Magic?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0648.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1267041283)
Looking back I see that it was in 2010 when we had our last snow. The last time that we had temperatures this cold was 1996.
What am I sawing?
White oak, red oak, poplar, maple, cedar and pine...firewood and kindling.
13 degrees this morning. Wind chill near 4. My customers are rescheduling sawmill work like crazy.
"Ah, Ted? We think it's too cold to do something that's supposed to be fun. You have another date we can cut our logs?" :D
My answer, "Absolutely!" :D
Wassa white stuff?
I am flying across from LAX to DFW looking out the window... salt pan, 'nother salt pan, bit more salt pan... must be Utah they have salt pans I've heard... tap ex on the shoulder and say "Hey Missi, this idiots built a house on a salt pan"
"John, that's snow"
Ahhh, never thought about that. :D
Monsoon trough is here, hot and wet and steamy and muddy and truckloads of rock trying to get the new hardstand to hold up.
At least it's warm.
The weather has been crazy since Sunday.
I had temps in the mid 30's while it was snowing/sleet/freezing rain.
I ended up with a couple inches of slush. Knoxville (10mi away) had 9 1/2 " people a few miles away had 6"
Then it dropped to 8 degrees overnight. so now I have a couple inches of ice.
Yesterday evening a friend I made in Alaska said it was 19 degrees, the same as I had here in TN.
I am planning to saw Thursday.
Thursday I will go back and finish the job where my engine failed. Friday will be a job that has been postponed by the weather since mid-November.
3 out of 4 of my post failed. I don't see how to notify admin or know what I'm doing wrong.
You posted that so you can make a reply. I tried to quote but Jeff said that has a problem.
What I get says Database error - report to admin. I tried to message but that failed too.
I suspect operator error but don't know what else I need to do.
I am sure that Jeff will be working on glitches for a while.
Here is a small trailer load of Cypress "cutoffs" from my last job that I gave to my Pastor. He has a Norwood and does hobby stuff so he will find good use for the short stuff.
I'll try again. I changed the hydraulic fluid the other day but snow and rain have kept me from sawing anything. I tried out the hydraulics 2 days ago and killed the battery (It had started the mill and was running) so I took the battery to the dealer for a check up. It tested okay and he put about a half charge on with a quick charge. I put it in yesterday and tested sitting and ready 12.5V. I cranked it and tested and had 14.9V so looks like the alternator is working fine. Due to bad weather I could not do more and not looking good today either.
Database error shows when I tried to post above. (Worked on second attempt)
Testing picture posting but that did not work.
Will there be a new tutorial on picture posting with new screens and such I wonder?
At the present time it is just like uploading a picture from your source into the gallery except the gallery is now your posting window.
For now we do not have the gallery to serve as our "Picture Bank" to store our pictures until the next time that we want to post a particular picture. That plus using a picture address as a search object to find a topic that we posted in, plus, plus, plus....
Can you tell that I loved that Gallery??
Tried that. Failed with too large message. Same size jpg I have been using. Plus this message failed 1st time l tried with Database error.
There may be a size limit here. ?? I do not know about the size limits because I always resize my pictures before uploading although the FF Gallery automatically resized your pictures. It just took longer to resize & upload so I did it beforehand.
Same problem here Howard�
If there is a size limit on photos what is it? I don't see how to open and add photos to my gallery.
Yup, Jeff is still working on it, but he did say in the beginning that the old Gallery probably would not actually connect to the new FF and that the old Gallery would probably be "read only".
We will have to wait and see but I know that he will do everything possible to accommodate the FF members.
Doc and I, with Jeff's consent and request started 2 new threads over in the technical issues forum. One is for reporting issues, the other is for us to all offer solutions and local fixes we have found in dealing with the new platform. We are all seeing issues being posted and discussed in MANY different thread, and that doesn't help us leverage the new knowledge to help each other. So making 2 threads for problems and fixes will consolidate the knowledge and help everyone. Also it will keep threads like this on their main topic better, hopefully.
Spread the word and check out those threads fellas.
Trying a drag and drop. We were rounding up some white pine before it warms up. The bottom 2 logs of this one yielded close to 300 bf of 1x12's.
I'm new here but I'm milling some 2.5"x10' random width (mostly 10-13") boards for the bridge deck of a 34' x 9' covered bridge I am getting ready to build on my property. The steel work is already done (got the steel I-beams from a bridge being torn down but that is another story) so I am milling up the lumber for it now
.IMG_7324.jpg
My sawing morning yesterday began with:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5129~0.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352201)
Being marked by the customer's dawg. :-\
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5124.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352199)
This job is finishing the sawing job that I was on when my engine blew. You can see a whack of stickered framing lumber in the background.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5130.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352200)
The customer is tallying the 816 bf of 1X6's that we sawed in 3 hours. Not record setting but still not too shabby. The stickered framing lumber is again shown in the background.
No sawing for me until next week.
Smart Dog.
Going to saw the last Spruce log today. Someone gave them to me and I milled a nice stack of framing lumber from the load. Going to be my new wood shop. I came up with a name for my milling/woodworking enterprise. After I retire at the end of the year, I plan on putting more time towards it.
Hackeldam was a small community in the 1800's located along the Neversink river. There was a sawmill located there along the river, it is all state forest now. There are remains of water power along a tributary.
It is about two miles from me.
We have been having a lot of rain, been just warm enough not to snow. The next week is high pressure with sunshine. Teens at night, mid 30's during the day. After about a month of clouds, it feels like an early Spring!
Keep up the good work!
Nice Logo. ;)
Lets see, I could have named mine; Coonbox Sawmill, Shankstown Sawmill, or Red Lick Sawmill after three long time gone towns near where I grew up. Shankstown is gone, Coon Box is now only a crossroad, and I went to school at Red Lick.
For me it could have been Neatman, Rosstown, Flat Shoals or Wilson's Store. All communities within a short distance from here.
Neatman Creek has a big part of its headwaters on our farm. The Weather Channel actually lists the weather for Neatman, NC. It is of course the suburbs of Mountain View, NC. :)
Finished the spruce. Onto the Hemlock and Pine. Beautiful day great to see the sun!
Easy to add pictures now.
M.M. I would have picked Coonbox with Red Lick a close second.
What is a Coonbox?
Quote from: richhiway on February 03, 2024, 04:11:15 PMWhat is a Coonbox?
Legend said that it was exactly what the name said but it pre-dates me so I am no witness. Something to do with trapping and coons. Red Lick was a red salt lick that deer came to. Shankstown also pre-dates me and I have no idea. Shankstown creek crosses under the highway and there is a sign. My Brother and I went to the supposedly location but found very little evidence of the town.
Not sure where Neatman came from. Probably a family name. Nobody can tell me exactly where downtown Neatman is. My wife doesn't know.
Flat Shoals creek runs east on the other side of Flat Shoals Mountain from here. We have a good view of the mountain.
Of course a mile down the road there was Mr Wilson's store and the Ross family lived a little further. IG Ross was the last Ross who lived there, he also ran a store.
We also live in the Greater Quaker Gap community. The gap cuts through the Sauratown Mountains but as far as I know, no Quakers live there now.
As best I can tell, no Neatmans, Rosses or Wilsons live in the community any more either.
The reality is my sawmill business is listed as a "service" for insurance purposes- Summey Lumber Services.
I've wondered if it was Quakers or Moravians from W-S that got mislabeled?
For those that don't know, the real cradle of forestry in the US was there.
No pictures because the battery in my little point and shoot camera was dead. :-\
I sawed a 5' long White oak that was about 18-20 inches diameter. I wanted to test my hydraulics with a little weight. The controls all worked okay. This week I'll buck and try it again with a big 12' poplar log I need to saw to finish my barn project before I take the mill on another mobile job.
I sawed this white oak into about 16 dozen 1-1/8" X 1-1/8" tomato stakes. I'll sell most for $15/dozen and about 18 of them that trimmed out at 4' at $1 each so not a bad return off a short log and an hour on the mill. Yeah, I spent another hour or so on the table saw and shrink wrapping into bundles of a dozen each but my retired time is not as big an issue since I can pick when I choose to use them.
I had a "minimum rate" sawing job this morning sawing Red Oak.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5137.JPG)
Eight of these 2" X live edge X 12' plus four 4X6's and a whack of 2X4's.
No scale but three hours including travel & setup, plus he tipped 50 bucks!
Another minimum rate job Wednesday sawing a fallen Pecan tree which will be primarily slabs. He is sending me pictures but it sounded like three 8' logs. I love these $400+ half day job$. ;)
Tomato stakes from yesterday
High tech jig for holding and wrapping 12 tomato stakes (Patent pending
I went up and bucked a 12' poplar log. I still have 25' of butt log left for future use.
I dragged it down and sawed it into 4/4 boards 6"-14" wide. Was largely a test of my hydraulics which worked fine even with a big heavy log.
Here is the lumber from the above post. (Still struggling with this picture limit process - sorry never took.)
(Update - Looks like Jeff and crew fixed the issue. Thanks boss.)
That's a nice looking poplar log. Not many are that big in my neck of the woods.
There are at least 2 more even bigger still waiting to be bucked to length and dragged down. As mentioned 25' of butt log is still up there.
Different "poplar". MN would be aspen (popple) and WV is tulip poplar, the largest eastern tree.
Night moves☺️
20240129_174525.jpg
Quote from: Don P on February 05, 2024, 11:00:20 PMDifferent "poplar". MN would be aspen (popple) and WV is tulip poplar, the largest eastern tree.
Thanks, I learned something today. So are they a totally different tree?
Short answer is "yes". Each have their nicknames that leads to confusion.
Quote from: fluidpowerpro on February 06, 2024, 01:17:00 AMQuote from: Don P on February 05, 2024, 11:00:20 PMDifferent "poplar". MN would be aspen (popple) and WV is tulip poplar, the largest eastern tree.
Thanks, I learned something today. So are they a totally different tree?
Although... aspen is the largest organism, there is one aspen grove, all one root from one seed, that covers over 100 acres ~40,000 stems. Pando in Utah.
Quote from: barbender on February 05, 2024, 11:30:55 PMNight moves☺️
Looks cold. So you are set up relatively permanent/stationary?
How do you move your sawdust out?
Don P,
Thanks for jumping in. I forgot that other folks think of Aspen as Poplar when we mention it. It is a real pleasant tree to cut as a soft hardwood. It is actually in the Magnolia family. It grows fast and straight and in a wide range of soils, I know they get really big but I did not know it is the largest tree in the east. I have a White oak nearly 5' in diameter. I lost a 40"+ fork off it in Superstorm Sandy a few years ago but the trunk and other fork seem healthy. I thought there were oaks or maybe elms that got bigger than tulip poplar and I'd bet Bald Cypress are the biggest we grow although they are not a hardwood species.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 06, 2024, 09:02:36 AMI forgot that other folks think of Aspen as Poplar when we mention it.
Actually Aspen
is Poplar and although our Tulip/Yellow Poplar is called Poplar,
it is not an actual bonafide member of the Poplar family.
LINK (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liriodendron_tulipifera)
The Poplar we have up north grows like a weed, the paper mills here grew thousands of acres of it for pulp production back in the day. It can be clear cut, and then will re-grow itself by thousands of stems growing up from the stumps. Down south they have fancy wood like "Tulip" and "Rainbow", up here we have "Pulp". smiley_grin
Tulip Poplar is a joy to saw. It's relatively soft, straight grained and knots aren't too hard to cut. It has a spicy or peppery odor that's not unpleasant. Our farm has plenty of big poplars and logs yield lots of board feet. It's satisfying to mill. Next to cherry, it's my favorite to mill.
I recommend poplar for siding when customers have a choice of pine, poplar or oak, especially if they paint or solid stain it.
Here's a whack waiting on me.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/IMG_2281.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=351406)
Ted,
Good looking logs.
I did a workshop for the USDA/Forestry folks a few years back and the forester told the crowd that Tulip poplar is comparable in strength to Southern Yellow pine for framing and such.
Don't let it touch the ground though as it rots real quick. I have a barn built from it and the siding that is 3" above ground is as solid as the day I built it 15-20 years ago. On the high side where I let it touch the ground it rotted within 2 years.
The one log I sawed yesterday in the previous post returned the following 4/4 boards:
4- 1X14X12
15- 1X12X12
4-1X10 X12
1-1X8X12
1- 1X6X12
I've sawn quite a bit of tulip poplar and like others found it saws really good into 1" sheeting.Seems to stay flat and straight.As far as framing lumber I've had various results.It may be my lack of experience but 2"x4"s,2"x6"s seem to want to bow and I've started cutting them oversize in width and drying awhile and then re-sawing to get straight.I mostly use pine for framing lumber now.Just wondering if others have the same problem.
Tulip Poplar is probably my most favorite Species to saw for all of the reasons that
Ted described above.
Quote from: Wlmedley on February 06, 2024, 10:55:12 AMI've sawn quite a bit of tulip poplar and like others found it saws really good into 1" sheeting.Seems to stay flat and straight.As far as framing lumber I've had various results.It may be my lack of experience but 2"x4"s,2"x6"s seem to want to bow and I've started cutting them oversize in width and drying awhile and then re-sawing to get straight.I mostly use pine for framing lumber now.Just wondering if others have the same problem.
There have been studies to overcome the dimension (2x ) cut from Tulip poplar, where 2" flitches are sawn, then dried before ripping into the dimension width (4, 6, 8"). Done to overcome the growth stresses and drying stresses in tulip. Referred to as SDR (saw, dry, rip).
https://www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/pdf1985/maegl85b.pdf
I don't recall ever sawing Poplar framing lumber. It's mostly 1X12's and 1X4's for board and batten siding. If it's for wall paneling it will be 1X8's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2185.JPG)
A nice Poplar job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2196.JPG)
One day's stickered lumber with fans to circulate the air. If I remember correctly, this job was entirely 1X8's. I did not get a picture of the entire job's lumber.
LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=78871.msg1197322#msg1197322)
I noticed from my narrative that 10 years ago I was nearly 100% using 10º blades. Now I am 100% using Turbo 7's.
It is not as strong as SYP but it is in the lumber calc in the toolbox. I've framed several houses with it and as beenthere noted, use the SDR method. It does not appear in the heavy timber tables and I suspect it is the heavy checking it does as a timber. Watch horizontal shear and one engineer told me to be aware that it does not give warning the way longer fibered wood does. I do borate all of it or sapwood becomes riddled with ppb's as fast as it rots in ground contact.
I'm parroting what the smart people say. When we lost the chestnut it became the largest eastern tree. I have laid on a stump, at almost ground level, with room to spare. The NC champion was ~6' dbh IIRC. Often if you find yourself in a stand you are in what was an old chestnut stand.
It is one of my "go to" woods. In the cabinet shop we had a very good finishing man, he could fool you more with poplar than about anything.
In the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest there are several old growth poplars 9' feet in diameter and over 27' in circumference. They approach 200 feet tall maybe more if wind damage hadn't "topped" them.
The JKMF is a tract of old growth that has never been timbered. The timber company just never got around to it. It eventually wasn't cost effective to cut it. The tract got donated to the Nantahala National Forest.
There are maples, beech, sycamore, oaks, hemlock and poplar in the tract.
https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/nfsnc/null/recarea/?recid=48920&actid=70
The only problem with popular for inside paneling is over time it gets darker .
JMoore and I sawed 60, 1x6x16's this evening after work. We have 10 2x6's to finish the order but we ran out of daylight tonight. The wind was from the north, so I was not eating sawdust and the edger created some smiles for us at about the time darkness set in. I despise edging on the mill. I did not take time for pictures. These were good logs and they had very few knots. They were all slash pine.
My sawmill shed is all poplar.It has gotten quite a bit darker but the boring bees don't like it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/1E3AF56F-29E3-4224-8FF7-9F89E10C2EAA.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=325028)
Quote from: slider on February 06, 2024, 08:16:26 PMThe only problem with popular for inside paneling is over time it gets darker .
Left unfinished, yes. We have a Poplar V-Groove ceiling that we finished with MINWAX Whitewash Pickling stain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1010_28Small29.JPG)
It has held up quite nicely. Of course also it is not subject to direct sunlight.
Aspen can have a lot of tension in it.
Magic, I'm set up outside. Under the stars in that pic☺️ I talk about building a saw shed all the time, but I'm starting to doubt I'll ever do it🤷 The sawdust is pushed into a big pile that I don't know what to do with, just outside the picture. Oh, it wasn't cold. At least not to me, in northern MN in February. It was right around freezing.
OK, you have adequate sawdust pushing room. ;)
I am also set up outside 100% of the time, except in different locations for each sawing job. I am headed out to saw a "one log" job this morning. A blown over Pecan that will probably all be live edge.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5142~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5143.JPG)
Here is the fallen Pecan tree that my customer wanted sawed. A look determined that with the limbs on the top end, this would only make one 8' log. There was no log handling equipment available soooo:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5152.JPG)
I used the Magic Hook and truck to adjust the log for sawing before I moved the sawmill to the log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5153.JPG)
It was 36" on both ends with bulges between but the cantilever sawmill easily handled it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5154.JPG)
I took 6/4 live edge side lumber off until I had a 20" centered cant. I then took 6/4 slabs until I neared the pith and then took four 4/4X20" center cuts. I then turned the remaining cant and sawed it 5/4 with one 2 1/4" mantel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5157.JPG)
The 6/4 & 5/4 lumber and mantel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5155.JPG)
Oval cookies from some of the limbs. Yes, that is Water Oak on the far right.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5156.JPG)
The minimum rate job sawed in 4 hours which included my chainsawing time.
If the weather (rain) holds off I will be sawing SYP Friday & Saturday.
That is pretty wood.
Another Chamber of Commerce day, we must have hit 60 today.
This is where we are set up sawing EWP. It's a little snug. We've pulled the rails off the swingblade and walked them and the carriage left so I could clear the slab pile beyond it. The dropoff behind it is about 60' above where I had the dozer parked on the knob in the dirtwork thread. I had moved another pallet of 1x12's like the one behind the dozer at this point. We're getting some good siding.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/sawingEWP.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352336)
The tree that died and instigated this had already turned blue. We got some good out of it and enough for about 8 pallets, I've made 4 so far.
Snug or not, that is a spectacular sawing location. :thumbsup:
Light was nice coming back up from the waste fire this evening. I'd say something about fall.colours but it's the guts of the wet season and the pretty yellow is courtesy of Monsanto.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32746/IMG_20240208_191123_HDR.jpg)
Magic, a lot of lumber from one log and very nice looking lumber at that. Pecan like hickory is dense wood, did your blades cut well on those wide cuts?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_7906.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352344)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_7907.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352345)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_7908.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352346)
I grabbed what looked to be a pretty good slash pine log yesterday afternoon to get 10 2x6's out of to finish the order. The heart was centered and the board out of the middle of the cant had the pith centered up and down and left to right. This log had other ideas. As I was sawing it it (Tom) showed a bit of stress, so I flipped it a few times to try to relieve it as I made my way towards the cant. On one cut after it had become a cant, a board nearly hit me when the blade came out of the cut. In the bottom picture, you can see it over on the left. After that one, I had to put a block on what was left of the cant to get it to clamp to the mill, make a skim cut, flip and salvage a very good 2x6.
Quote from: cutterboy on February 08, 2024, 07:08:44 AMPecan like hickory is dense wood, did your blades cut well on those wide cuts?
Yes, the Turbo 7 blade sawed as expected. It had only been a few days since this tree fell so it was fresh.
Cavey,
I saw that picture and thought you were sawing gunnels for a canoe or something!
Or a mighty big rockin' chair. :rocking_in_chair_with_shotgun
When life gives Magic lemons, he makes Pecan cookies. :thumbsup:
But Magic ain't making nuttin tomorrow. Rained out again. :-\
Ground has dried up enough to load my log deck. I've got two hemlock and two spruce. All are pretty rough looking but are from trees I planted myself years ago and got to big being they were close to the house. I've never cut either species and don't have particular use for them. Any suggestions on what wood is best for?(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/ED13FBF8-9548-447C-9DF8-ADB1DAAC28AE_adobe_express.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352351)
Very knotty paneling ??
Look forward to seeing them opened up. Will you be sawing them soon?
Beenthere, I hope to saw them the next rainy day if nothing else comes up. I'm curious what they will look like myself. I'll take some pictures .
Bill.
I saw my Spruce about 3/4" thick and use it for making the walls on my Composting toilet buildings. I like it because it is lighter than most other woods I use. I sell it to customers for trim and they like it to match pine or hemlock. I saw hemlock for customers but have never used any for my purposes. Both make pretty boards.
I use 4 degree dh blades to saw both because of the knots. A bigger hook angle tends to want to jump over the knots and leaves ripples in the boards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/55256/IMG_7514.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352354)I don't exactly know how I got the picture here, but I will take it. I was sawin Ash but was seein a really pretty sky.
20240129_183240.jpg
That is tamarack in the picture, it had so much tension it split before the blade could cut all the way through😬
Wow, no sawing here in 3 days. I plan on sawing full size 2x10s tomorrow.
Sawed the first hemlock I've ever sawn. A lot of knots and a lot of taper and took quite awhile to get squared up but it sawed straight and didn't seem to have any tension. Probably more trouble than what it was worth but I now have about 60 board feet of 1" hemlock I didn't have before gallery/displayimage.php?pid=l=https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352428](https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/9B4B863A-91C2-4E18-BCE6-196AA3D55B5B_adobe_express.jpeg)[/url][/url]
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/64FA6B34-BBA9-4A6F-84A1-1B1DF0390406_adobe_express_2.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352429)
I have milled a bunch of hemlock, but only have one single board air drying in the shop. All the rest have gone to customer orders or woodshed builds. I have never built anything with it...yet. But I really like the grain appearance and we live in Hemlock country. I'd like to try working with some soon. Some of the logs I have opened have huge stress and I have had 2x10' snap up off the cant. I flip a lot on those looking to reduce the stress. Some logs just don't want to give in, but many are very pleasant. It's pretty wood.
Hemlock is rare in my area. I dug a few up approximately 30 years ago while working in the southern part of the state and brought home and planted them. They all grew well but were to close to the house. This was the last one.
They are pretty much gone from here although young ones are trying. One of our last to go was a Carolina Hemlock, the petals on the cone open to wide open, almost laid back, when they drop seed and then dry out compared to open enough to drop seed, more like a pine cone, on an eastern. The carpenter bees tend to leave hemlock alone most of the time.
They grow here like weeds, really, almost like bamboo thickets. When I set my mill on it's first location down in the woods I must have cut out over 100 'trees' that ranged from 3" up to 10". They grow so thick they shade each other out. Almost like plantation seeded, but they do it on their own. The eastern Catskills were so loaded with hemlock in the 'early times' that it brought the entire tanning industry here because they could get all the hemlock bark they needed. There were no less than 3 entire towns founded around the tannery company stores for various companies. Hides were skinned from all over as far away as Brazil and shipped to NYC, then up the Hudson and then by wagon to the tanneries. They were tanned, then sold to the leather brokers in NYC.
The inner bark of the Hemlock was used in tanning because of it's very high tannin content. First growth trees as big as 3' diameter were cut and dropped then the bark was peeled off and carried out on bark sleds (like light duty stone boats) to the tanneries. The Catskills still have many miles of bark roads all over if you know how to recognize them. Many became skidder trails a century later but some can still be walked as they were, usually they were around 8-10' wide. Barkers would live in the woods harvesting for months at a time. The trees were left to rot. The entire Catskills were cleared of all the hemlock during this period except for some very difficult to access sections where first growth trees still exist. Eventually the technology changed and hemlock was not required and the industry left these mountains, it was replaced by the chair making industry and new towns popped up for that, the process was repeated for the hardwoods, especially Maple for chair making. Chestnut were very prevalent and that was harvested for flooring and building too. Eventually the mountains were bare. Now they have grown back but in a very messy manner and without natural burning to clean things out it is a very green tree filled environment with a lot of poor trees.
We are being clobbered by the wooly algedid right now and they say it will devastate the hemlocks. It hard to find a tree that doesn't have the little buggers hanging out on the bottom of the leaves. They are so tiny, but they say they are going to kill all the trees eventually, just like all our Ash. My grandchildren will have to deal with that.
Hemlock grows in patches around here. A couple years ago they cut a bunch about 7-8 miles up the road from me. I have a few small ones on my land with only one big enough to saw on my place but I put a tree stand in it the first year I was here and drove so many railroad spikes in for climbers I pity the sawyer who tries to cut it. I saw it for several customers in adjacent counties. I use 4 degree DH blades because of the knots. It is bad to have ring shake so you have to work around that.
There were Tanneries near me too. In western Sullivan and Delaware counties they cut all the hardwood into 4 ft lengths and heated them to collect all the wood gases. They were called acid factories. One of the products was used in gunpowder until the Germans invented a synthetic replacement in WW1. By the 1930's they were all gone.
If you Google Acidalia NY you can see some old pictures of the naked mountains.
https://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/the-wood-chemical-industry-in-the-northeast#:~:text=At%20the%20height%20of%20the,was%20hard%20and%20often%20dangerous.
Sawed up a spruce log today. Another species I had never sawn. This one was a Christmas tree in our house approximately 30 years ago and planted in the corner of the yard. Got a lot bigger than expected so I cut it last year. It was a little harder to deal with than the hemlock.Knots were larger and harder and all boards had to be edged to get straight. Wood seemed a little whiter and surface rougher than hemlock. Have to see how it drys but from what I've experienced so far it's not a species I'll go looking for. Got approximately 50 bf and spent a couple hours on it. Again I've got more spruce lumber than I had yesterday.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/FE351419-5163-4D49-9821-2923FD92CF01_adobe_express.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/l=https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352438)
Rough looking log and a trailer load of scrap wood. log.l=https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352437](https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/9A1EA556-A32E-4A6A-811E-9DDA7A431695_adobe_express.jpeg)[/url]
We are soaked wet so I am waiting on customers to dry out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5182.JPG)
A customer did deliver a small load (5 logs) of "Sinker Cypress" to me yesterday and hopefully we will saw it this week. He will have to take everything but the sawdust with him when he leaves with the lumber.
Lynn,
Is the orange dot on the logs a color code?
I have one customer who has me come cut his logs into timbers for timber framing and he color codes the logs with paint dots like that and at the start of the job hands me a piece of cardboard with a dot and a legend/cut list of what each means. He is well organized and I really enjoy sawing for him.
Not my dots Howard ??
Cut up 8 full size 2x10s, yesterday, for a repeat customer. He is going to make raised garden boxes. I had a 10x17 inch cant left over from a 33 inch SYP log.
Can someone explain how one photo was added twice and how to delete it?
TimW
Go to that post and click on "quick edit" and you should be able to remove the extra one.
Yup , open it, then click modify, click the red x top right of picture then click save.
Thanks Mooseherder! I didn't see it at first, but your instructions were spot on.
Quote from: beenthere on February 14, 2024, 04:51:15 PMTimW
Go to that post and click on "quick edit" and you should be able to remove the extra one.
If only it was that easy. I did that and couldn't figure it out, until Mooseherder gave the......click modify tip.
Aha! I don't have the modify button until I click the "More" box first. I thought it was gone with the new change/release. Learned another trick. Thanks Mooseherder
Exactly. It kinda just pops up. Not sure if I can find it again!
I'm learning also and forgot to mention the more tab. Jeff talked me through posting reduced size pics on my Android phone just a couple days ago. Gotta learn something new everyday right?!
I started a sawing job this morning that, because of weather, we have been trying to saw since Nov. 17th.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5188.JPG)
22 SYP logs of varying lengths and diameters. I'll saw the 7 logs where I first set up and then move the sawmill to the remainder.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5189.JPG)
As planned, the sawmill has been moved to the second whack of logs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5190.JPG)
I only sawed 1X6's and 1X12's today. Tomorrow I will finish sawing the 1X12's first and then saw 2X4's and six 4X4's. We should finish tomorrow, but if not then Monday.
Lynn,
How is/are your helper(s) doing? Seems like a pretty leisurely pace there for 22 logs even with a mill move included. Customers really love that when you tell them it is faster and easier for you to just move the mill than for them to move the logs. I love it when the customers say "You can really do that?"
Yes, this is a really good job. We had a large 24" butt lightening struck tree yesterday with 3 logs that had enough loss that the loss made it hardly worth the gain. It was mostly an hour wasted. Stuff like that is what it is, so nothing to fret over. Just move on. I saw one log yesterday that will probably be discarded.
The reason for the long delay was because the customer is off on Friday and he has a nephew to help on Saturday so we needed both days to be rain free and it just would not happen. The nephew came yesterday when he got off from work and I saw very quickly that he is a good worker. I have little doubt that we will finish today.
This one moved from the Schedule Book to the Invoice Book today. ffsmiley
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5192.JPG)
3351 bf of various lengths, widths, and thicknesses based on the customer's cut list. We got-r-done in a day and a half so I was very pleased with the productivity and the customer was pleased with the lumber. There was more lumber in the background that I could not squeeze into the picture.
I have no plans to saw any more this month. I realize that I have customers that are ready, but the only way that I can slow down is to slow down. :wink_2:
This isn't what I am sawing, but what I have sawn. I cut these 20 foot White Oak 2x8s a couple of months ago, and didn't get to installing them fast enough.
Do you think I can put them in my pond for awhile, then try to straighten with weights while drying, or just cut another White Oak down (killed by the heat last summer) and cut more 2x8s?
Here it is in progress...........
I would not be concerned about drying trailer decking boards. Put um down green/wet jam tight and they will sort themselves out as they dry.
And the pond is free, nothing lost in trying.
Quote from: Magicman on February 21, 2024, 01:49:00 PMI would not be concerned about drying trailer decking boards. Put um down green/wet jam tight and they will sort themselves out as they dry.
Quote from: Magicman on February 21, 2024, 01:49:00 PMI would not be concerned about drying trailer decking boards. Put um down green/wet jam tight and they will sort themselves out as they dry.
Lynn,
Right on green. But these are warped and was wondering about soaking in water to get them to straighten them out enough to drill and install.
Quote from: Don P on February 21, 2024, 03:15:52 PMAnd the pond is free, nothing lost in trying.
Don,
When it comes to that pond, free is an ambiguous word. help_me
QuoteBut these are warped and was wondering about soaking in water to get them to straighten them out enough to drill and install.
Not very likely that soaking will work in your favor.
I found this little walnut log a couple days ago when I went to cut a dead locust I found uproooted. When I cut into it I found it was walnut. Most was split and trashy but I saved this little 8'9" log. The boards will trim out 8'. I got a handful of decent 1X6 and a 1X4. About 25 bf total yield but its better than firewood.
Quote from: TimW on February 21, 2024, 01:35:11 PMThis isn't what I am sawing, but what I have sawn. I cut these 20 foot White Oak 2x8s a couple of months ago, and didn't get to installing them fast enough.
Do you think I can put them in my pond for awhile, then try to straighten with weights while drying, or just cut another White Oak down (killed by the heat last summer) and cut more 2x8s?
Throw those 2xs on the mill and edge them to 2x6 or what they will make. Who says trailer decking needs to be 2x8?
I believe I would use a porta power to straighten those boards as you put them down.
I am replacing one board at a time so I can use the trailer if needed. Just replacing boards that need to be replaced. Which is every board installed upside down. 2x6s would require drilling new holes in the metal, after the work on the mill. If I gotta mill more, 2x8s would be choice. Putting 20 foot White Oak 2x8s back on the mill is not fun.
Quote from: SawyerTed on February 21, 2024, 05:56:26 PMQuote from: TimW on February 21, 2024, 01:35:11 PMThis isn't what I am sawing, but what I have sawn. I cut these 20 foot White Oak 2x8s a couple of months ago, and didn't get to installing them fast enough.
Do you think I can put them in my pond for awhile, then try to straighten with weights while drying, or just cut another White Oak down (killed by the heat last summer) and cut more 2x8s?
Throw those 2xs on the mill and edge them to 2x6 or what they will make. Who says trailer decking needs to be 2x8?
Yes, that is right. But I am replacing one board at a time and the setup now is 2x8s. 2x6s would require drilling new holes in the metal, after the work on the mill. If I gotta mill more, 2x8s would be choice. Putting 20 foot White Oak 2x8s back on the mill is not fun.
Quote from: Wlmedley on February 21, 2024, 06:13:23 PMI believe I would use a porta power to straighten those boards as you put them down.
I could pry them into place. But I am laying the old board over the new board and drilling. The boards bolt into C channels and it is impossible to drill a straight hole without chewing up the existing threads.
Thanks to all for the ideas. I still wanna try getting them wet. My tractor is at the shop getting shop screwups fixed after a clutch R&R anyway. So if I sawed, it would be with the old Lull running everywhere.
Just cleaning up the lot and salvaging a spruce top I cut last year. I cut the bottom half into beams for a lady in Fla who has a home up here and a contractor was doing some repair work on it for her. I probably should have cut it into stock much sooner as I see I had lots of character in the form of worm holes. I cut it in 8" and 6" wide 3/4" siding and 3" X 1/2" battens and will use it for making composting toilets and such so it is still fine for that purpose. I probably should raise the price on it accordingly. smiley_smug01
Anyway the top was about 12" diameter at the big end and under 6" at the little end and about 41' long. I cut it into 7' and 6.5' lengths as that is what my "Pooh Houses" use.
I had about 206 sf of boards when I finished which is all stacked and stickered now. That thin soft wood will dry pretty quickly.
Grabbed 8-8 foot Hemlocks off the beach from one log and cut them into what's in the PU. Used the loader to load the log deck. Cut some fir from a reclaimed bridge timber into 6x6s
Dan
Nice logs and sawing. That is a mighty fine "log loader" that your sawmill has. ffsmiley :thumbsup:
DanR,
The forked tractor looks like it might very handy for taking some of the strain out of moving boards and slabs.
John Hogue
Lynn,
I have my LT 15 set up at my Daughters property. Her FIL has the KW log truck.It comes in very handi for log moving.
Sixacresand,
Yes the little Kabota is handi. That location is my Parents old property. They have both passed and the new owner is the fellow on his tractor. That's where I still get beach wood to saw. At the mill site I have a JCB 314 backhoe. Also have a Cat 303.5 mini excavator with a hydraulic thumb which is great for log moves.
Lots of equipment to make life easier.
Dan
I haven't sawed any boards in a while in the frozen north.
I really like the new photo layout on the posts and the fact that you can click on them to expand!! ffcool
Cut some 6x6 fir A few 1x6 for strapping and some Red Cedar for a fellow that builds bird houses.
In addition to the normal pine, I sawed a few short logs a friend of mine brought me from a yard in Tampa. I'm not sure what they were and when he stopped by yesterday and saw the short slabs, he apologized for not bringing the butt log.
I have not quite figured out how to reliably get my pictures into my gallery yet, so y'all have to take my word for it. The wood was dark like Paroda or walnut, heavier than live oak but it sawed fast, flat and easy. The bark was almost like cottonwood. The guy who brought the logs said the tree produced flowers, but it was not a Poinciana or tabebuia.
From your description, it sounds like Paulownia.
MM, it may have been but I did saw some Paulowina for a fellow several years ago and this seemed different. One other thing, they had some rot in some limb holes, but the logs smelled like grain-fed cow manure when sawed. They were kind of crappy logs, but people buy weird stuff.
I have never sawn Paulowina but I am familiar with the rich brown heartwood and it's flowers. It is some purdy stuff.
I sawed a red oak 8x12 beam yesterday from a real nice 22 inch clear log. The opening cut and second pass were like going through concrete. So I figured need to change the band. Sure enough the next pass ran great. But then I turned the log and the first two passes were a struggle then great. Happen on all sides. I had put the log up on the mill a couple days ago, could it have been frozen all around to the depth of my first two passes?
Before I finished reading your post I was thinking it sounded like a case hardened log. (Partially frozen. Toughest sawing there is on a circle mill when you have a large half frozen log. Freeze solid, no prodem. Thaw out. No prodem.
@caveman ,
Any chance it was Tree of Heaven? Allanthus. Often called stink tree as it has a foul odor. Leaves and such look similar to sumac but of course you did not have the leaves. Light weight wood and often has a hollow heart. I've sawed Paulowia and Allanthus and could not swear I could tell them apart if all I had was a few short logs.
Think spelling is Parota
https://parotas.com/en/parota-wood-furniture/
I thought tree of heaven is a very light-colored wood.
It is also very light weight. If it is that dark any chance it could be Persimmon which is an Ebony and has blocky bark?
yes, persimmon is very dense.
When I went back out to the mill today and looked at the wood after it had oxidized some, I realized what it was. It was probably Honduran Rosewood or at least something in the Dalbergia species . What I sawed was mainly short sections of limbs. I talked to the guy who brought me the logs and he said that this tree was growing in a backyard in Tampa, and he was using a walk-behind skid steer and could only move small pieces. He evidently cut up the butt log into manageable chunks. That butt log would likely have been worth $1000's. I did not tell him but suggested that in the future, bring them to us, they are worth sawing.
This was the first time I've sawn Honduran Rosewood, but John (JMoore) and I built some benches out of some sawn by someone else for a customer last year. It was odd to grab a log heavier than live oak.
A week or so ago, I gave Furby a small scrap of rosewood left over from the benches that may make some pen blanks.
Ironically, rosewood is named rosewood because of the smell of the wood when sawing. To me it did not smell like flowers at all but much more like cow crap. I suppose if we can dry it flat, it will smell like money. I sawed cookies out of the really short log. Hopefully it does not crack up too badly.
I have never been negatively affected by poison ivy but mango sap and evidently, Indian Rosewood sap and sawdust do not play kindly with me. After sawing a couple of small Indian Rosewood logs today, I noticed my forearms were whelping up and itching. I went and washed with Borax soap and the itching abated. The mango sap that I was exposed to while pruning a mango tree brought me some misery a few years ago-bloody, itchy forearms from the sap exposure.
More 6x6s and strapping. 24 inch log took a bit to turn.
I fired up my mill for the first time since last spring. I struggled a bit at first but a couple minor tweaks and a new blade got it cutting well.
I had a few small logs that I milled because they are different.
American Hornbeam
Persimmon (this really smelled bad while cutting)
and a large maple, I kept 1 live edge slab that has some birds eye, 2" x19"
MB,
I never saw a hornbeam big enough to saw. What are you making out of it? I guess those are old knots in the persimmon that look like nails in the boards.
The hornbeam was pretty small, I usually don't mill that small, maybe 10" dia
the dark spots aren't nails, I think they're from knots.
I don't have any plans for the lumber yet. I have an awefull lot that I don't have plans for.
I enjoy milling and do use some of the lumber on variuos projects, i need to work on finishing some before I start more.
That Persimmon stands out with the black knots and streaks. :thumbsup:
You need a blade. ffsmiley
Or at least reset the one he has. smiley_smug01
I did replace the blade, it was cutting pretty poorly.
I did a few other adjustments first
I haven't figured up the board feet, but its a good size stack of boards.
As many might know
Big Bob has a blown engine.
I had 2 big ash logs to saw for a customer the butt log was 38.5 " on the small end the other was the 37" on the small end. The Kubota wouldn't move them so I made a sled with black locust and red pine. Rolled them on the sled and pulled the logs to the front of the mill. The customer wanted 5" and 4" 5/4 boards.
How come I can't put pics in from my gallery?
You should be able to.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/thumb_1000002013.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/thumb_1000001972.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/thumb_1000002012.jpg)
Had a warm rainy day today. Couldn't do anything else so thought I would tackle a spruce that I probably should have rolled on my brush pile but it was on the deck and I put on a new blade and set in on it. Had a time getting it squared up but although I only got 64 bf it turned out pretty good. Still have several poplar and hemlock I need to get sawn before hot weather. Slow but sure.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/0E42981E-2DE6-43E2-AD90-AE65D0E0C20B.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352710)
Bruno
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/1000002012.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352707)
Copy the code under your pic and paste it in your post, another way.
Are the trusses holding up your sawmill shed roof okay?
That's a big log Bruno. I do my best to stay away from them. ffcheesy
I plan to keep one that size to saw as a test log the next time the WM service loop team comes to service my mill. No more of these 12" green 8' long tulip poplar logs. From now on it's gonna be real world test logs! ffcheesy
I sawed a kinda small Cherrybark Red Oak job today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5258.JPG)Fourteen 8' & 10' logs but I culled three of them because they would not have made quality lumber. It's tougher to make good production with these shorter logs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5259.JPG)
We had finished sawing @2:30 so not a bad partial day of sawing. 1318 bf of 1X6, 1X8, 1X10, & 1X12's.
I don't know how to copy and paste
Right clic over a phrase (highlighting the part you want) or image and clic "copy" in the drop down. then put the cursor in the area you want to put it, right clic and select "paste". it will place a copy there. this includes the picture url. If you want to move something, clic "cut" in the drop down and it will remove from the original spot and place it in the new spot by right clic and select "paste".
I only have a phone
Quote from: doc henderson on February 29, 2024, 08:39:14 AMRight clic over a phrase (highlighting the part you want) or image and clic "copy" in the drop down. then put the cursor in the area you want to put it, right clic and select "paste". it will place a copy there. this includes the picture url. If you want to move something, clic "cut" in the drop down and it will remove from the original spot and place it in the new spot by right clic and select "paste".
I would have to be shown. Non of those terms mean a thing to me. No offence . When others where learning this computer stuff I was working on one of my sawmills every night.
the clic refers to the mouse with a left and right button. glad to help, but may be easier to ask a local friend.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on February 29, 2024, 04:00:34 PMI only have a phone
If you have an android phone this is how to copy and paste.
Android For Beginners - How to Copy & Paste (youtube.com) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiL9kvdWyTQ)
Resizing picture on Android phones.
Edit: Select 20 % for uploading to the FF.
I sawed 4 logs into 51 1x12's of eastern red cedar.
Those Cedar logs must of been dandies!
Jeff they were el primo logs and I got el primo price!
Logs large enough to produce defect free lumber like that deserve the "el primo" moniker. :thumbsup:
I was going to say that now you are just showing off. ffcheesy That's some sweet cedar for sure!!
Not worth posting a picture but I sawed up another hemlock log today that I didn't have much hope of getting good lumber from. Maybe just a fluke but this hemlock seems to saw some really nice lumber and doesn't have any tension at all. To bad it is the only one I had on the property. Also found a fellow to sharpen my old bands at $7.00 each. I took him 21 and he said 2 were not fit to sharpen. He had a Cooks sharpener and seemed to know what he was doing so hopefully they will cut good. I was getting ready to cut them up and trash them but kept putting it off. Now I have about 40 bands so that should keep me cutting for quite awhile.
I was clearing a path up the main draw that runs through my property last week so I can haul some roof repair tools and items up to my shooting house up there. I knew there were several fallen trees across the trail so I took my chainsaw and cut sever out of the way and dragged them down the hill for firewood. One was buckeye, another was poplar but I cut one I was pretty sure was elm. It was uprooted at the stump and the bulk of the log was off the ground so the log was very sound. I cut several lengths off and dragged them to my firewood shed. The butt log was a little over 10' long, 10" SED with just a little sweep. The grain and wood color was so pretty I decided to saw it into LE slabs to make benches. I sawed 3 9/4 slabs but then resawed one of them into square stock to use for legs. I plan to make about 6 benches in the 3' range. Looking back I should have just kept all 3 slabs intact and sawed some short square stock for the legs out of one of the other firewood logs. I may still saw another 5' or so of the next log for some more legs to be sure I have plenty. It is real pretty wood and I think it will make nice benches. I ended up with about 53 bf of lumber from the log. Better than firewood.
The wood reminds me a lot of chestnut beams I have resawed as far as color and grain pattern.
An uprooted Elm is not something that I normally find. Look at the end grain. Elm's wavy pattern is unmistakable.
I looked at 14 Oak logs this morning that I should begin sawing Monday morning.
Well, if the sawmill destroys the legs in the process, they can still go in the stove. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcool ffwave smiley_smug01 :thumbsup: :usa: . Just pokin the bear. :snowball: maybe i can demo my way this year. will you be at the sawing project Howard?
Doc,
It is still iffy whether we will get to come or not. I'd like to but it will depend on my wife's health (and mood) and such as to whether we try to come again. I sure enjoyed it last year.
If we do come after the workshop we'll go to Lake City Fla (again) for a day or so and visit with my last surviving aunt (98 y/o Paternal) then go to Escambia County Fla just below the Ala line and be there for Mom's 94th birthday on the 28th. I don't know if we can afford or survive that much time on the road and away from home.
Maybe I'll win the lottery between now and then. Anybody want to send me a winning ticket? ffcheesy
Lynn,
There is a little spalting for a foot or so around the very butt cut. I wondered at one point if it might be an old Sycamore but it was growing on the hillside and all the sycamore I've sawed was a real ight and often greeniish tint but of course they were fresh cut. It looks like the elm I have sawed in the past.
hope you can make it so we can meet but understand of you cannot! :thumbsup: :usa:
I was not really questioning, but Elm is deep rooted and unless there is some kinda root rot, it does not easily give up it's perch. I don't remember ever seeing an Elm blow down here. The end grain will easily tell the species.
I cut some standing dead elm after 5 years but had to push it over with the track loader. made good firewood. pre sawmill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/048.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=258398)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/047.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=258396)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/049.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=258397)
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352791
Picture of some Red Cedar closet liner I sawed several weeks ago. One board got a little sun my wife and oldest son were doing the intallation while I was wiring outlets.
Lynn.
I sure won't swear it is elm but I can't think of what else we have around here it could be. Elm may be deep rooted but remember we have a lot more rocks and shallower bedrock than you are seeing in Mississippi. This tree was on a steep slope and over a run off. I bet it was 15' above the ground in the middle. That is a tree that was about 12" at the stump and 60-80 feet tall. I wonder if the spalting at the stump could be a root rot indication too?
Its a dense hardwood, smooth skinned, no bark. Not an oak, poplar, ash, beech, buckeye, maple or locust. Dark brown wood. Only others I could think of is sycamore or scaly bark hickory. I don't know what color sycamore turns when it is dead. There is very little moisture left in this log and no splitting/checking noted. No real heavy or distinct smell. Straight trunk with few limbs. It sawed good with a new resharpened 4 degree blade. As I said the wood looked a lot like chestnut I have resawed for customers but I highly doubt it is chestnut.
Doc,
I like the way you park the log over your containers and cut from your trailer. Nice setup. :thumbsup:
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 07, 2024, 07:34:11 PMElm may be deep rooted but remember we have a lot more rocks and shallower bedrock than you are seeing in Mississippi.
Which is why I was always careful to note that I was only talking about Elm "here" and what I normally see. :wink_2:
And I guess we had elm in N. Fla but I don't ever remember recognizing it as a kid growing up there.
Elms find the sewer lines faster than any other tree.
We had them where we lived when I was a kid. I always helped Dad remove the tile sewer pipes and run a water hose into the line to find the roots, then we dug there. Run if the hose "turned" around and came back out at you. Run I did.
I am very familiar with elm. The place I grew up at had a lot of big elm trees. Can't say we were in the woods but we had quite a few in our yard (about 10 ) and we were well shaded in the summer.
In the late 70's dutch elm disease came through and we lost them all. Within a few years we went from a nice shaded property to an open yard.
Of course my dad put in a wood stove because we now had lots of wood to burn.
About that time I built my dad a log splitter that I still use to this day. The I beam still has a slight twist in it from splitting that elm. I have yet to find a nastier wood to split.
Another thing I remember about elm trees is that they are very dirty. They constantly shed tons of small twigs and the seeds in the spring were also a big nuisance.
I still have fond memories of growing up around elm and they are big and beautiful. I just wouldn't choose to have them in my yard.
Quote from: TimW on March 08, 2024, 12:23:58 AMElms find the sewer lines faster than any other tree.
We had them where we lived when I was a kid. I always helped Dad remove the tile sewer pipes and run a water hose into the line to find the roots, then we dug there. Run if the hose "turned" around and came back out at you. Run I did.
I don't know what the order is, however I know willow and spruce are also up there.
GAB
Loaded my deck up today with random logs I had laying different places that need sawn before long. Bark peeled off a couple poplar logs pretty easy so I peeled them.These will give me something to do for a day or two.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/3DD42FBF-40F0-475D-A800-3E0F4415E7FD.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352856)
Bill,
That picture of the poplar with no bark shows the fluted areas common with poplar. IIRC Lind/Basswood will do pretty much the same thing.
I should have added............on our property.
Recently was contacted by someone that makes reproduction cannons. He needed some red oak for a small naval cannon he is building. He said he would send me some pics when he has it done so I hope he does.
Had rain all day today so I thought I would saw a couple ugly spruce logs.Didn't set any production record but got some nice straight boards.From now on I'm aiming for quality over quantity.Here's a few of them.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/BF1C94D0-B579-4AC3-AC2F-32CC97A27A7D.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352881)
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Nice job.
Quote from: Wlmedley on March 09, 2024, 08:27:23 PMHad rain all day today so I thought I would saw a couple ugly spruce logs.Didn't set any production record but got some nice straight boards.From now on I'm aiming for quality over quantity.Here's a few of them.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/BF1C94D0-B579-4AC3-AC2F-32CC97A27A7D.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352881)
And board quality begins in the quality of the log. :snowball: :wink_2: :wink_2:
i.e. "can't get a silk purse out of a sows ear"
Your boards look great.
What am I sawing? White oak and lots of it. Seems like every customer has white oak that's "been down two or three years." It's dry and hard to saw. I've had three jobs in the last two weeks like this. Two wanted trailer decking, one wanted 5/4, 6/4 and 8/4. The last guy had a "tractor" to move logs, it was a Kubota BX series big lawnmower/TLB
Those rotten sapwood logs look like what I was into two weeks ago. So much loss.
My tomorrow's job will be Oak, but thankfully I did not see rotten logs. Water, Cherrybark, and Post Oak. I have never met the customer and have no idea what the cut list will be.
Ted, At least you won't have to worry about the grass getting high around your mill.
Lately, the mill moves 3 times a week if not more! No grass has time to grow around it! ffcheesy On the other hand mud, mud and more mud due to all the rain!
My neighbor asked me if they could drop a Water Oak tree onto my property. I got about 12 foot length of 30 inch trunk before the huge limbs started. What can it be used for?
(about:invalid)
(about:invalid)
You said Water Oak which I see in the picture so I assume that you mislabeled it White Oak? Those are unusually solid logs with no evidence of bacteria, etc. Actually, very good.
Generally speaking, it will make anything for interior use such as furniture, etc.
I would consider quartersawing that one at 5/4.
What caveman said times two.
Also, trim that butt end square and put anchor seal, or a log sealer of some kind of on both ends.
There's some mighty nice furniture lumber in there.
Quote from: Magicman on March 10, 2024, 08:09:57 AMMy tomorrow's job will be Oak
Such as is very common when dealing with customers and their schedules, my tomorrow's job got moved to Wednesday. There is some rain forecast for Thursday so if it pushes into two days, we will finish sawing next week or however it works out.
Yeah, I labeled the photos wrong when I was resizing them and in a hurry.
I am gonna cut it in a day or two. Since it is over 12 foot and will be bucked shorter, won't it just be fine to not apply anything? I will have them cut before any sealer gets here.
The same forces that cause logs to crack cause boards to split...
Coat them either way.
I ordered some AnchorSeal. Suppose to be here Tuesday.
first class. sometimes I use the color to remember the tree and species of a log in my yard. I have had red, green, blue, as well as clear.
Coating the lumber ends after it has been sawn is more labor intensive but coating the log ends before sawing can interfere with your ability to see the growth rings while sawing, especially QS which those logs need.
The Anchor-Seal that I have goes on white and then turns mostly clear.
Many of the forces that split logs are alleviated by sawing them into lumber. I'm not saying don't coat them, but the best thing to do is saw them quickly imo.
Studying the log and properly turning it to avoid having the log's pith check vertical within the "saw through" cant will prevent much board splitting. EXAMPLE (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=46535.msg673835#msg673835)
Had the above log been sawed differently, every board would have split from end to end. Note that the customer only wanted 12" boards so orienting the pith check @ 45° and edging was not an option.
I am rereading Yellowhammer's Reverse Quarter Sawing thread and he doesn't anchorseal before cutting to see the grain, like MM mentioned.
Quote from: TimW on March 11, 2024, 02:43:00 PM. . . I am rereading Yellowhammer's Reverse Quarter Sawing thread and he doesn't anchorseal before cutting to see the grain, like MM mentioned. . .
Quote from: Magicman on March 11, 2024, 08:42:32 AM. . The Anchor-Seal that I have goes on white and then turns mostly clear. . .
My log sealer does the same thing.
This guy's glacial experience in the up yonder, is that the sooner you apply the sealer, mill the log, sticker and stack, the less waste (checking, twist and bow) there is.
.
@YellowHammer is generally acknowledged to the Yoda of Sawmillers - his felled trees doesn't bounce twice before he has them milled, stacked and air drying in a shady nook. They just don't know what hit'em.
We may try, however, it's
difficult impossible for the rest of us mere mortals to raise ourselves to his levels . . . unless it's say, Customsawyer. :snowball: (favourite Canadian emoji)
Careful Andries, while most of what you said is true, say much more and Yellowhammer's head might not fit his new gun!
Good advice Troy.
Sounds like you know him well.
That new sharpshooter's dream could probably reach out and 'touch' me where I live.
What's your group spacing at that distance Robert?
I went out and cut another 7' "log" off my elm (???) for bench legs. I just cut it into 3 slabs then cut them in thirds at 9/4. Some had too much wane to really use but I got enough to make another 5 and probably 6 benches out of it. I cut a cookie off one end so viewers can see and maybe help confirm if it is elm or other thoughts on it.
The look at the end almost looks like cherry and it could be but the wood is much darker brown than what it seems to be in the picture.
MM, thank you for putting the example link in your post. I went back and read the whole thread and hopefully learned a little more about sawing. There sure is a lot of good information in alot of the old threads if you know where to look.
Howard, Take your magnifying glass and look at the end grain. Elm will be wavy.
I have a customer coming in the morning to resaw some beams and I'll check the cookie if I can find it and the boards if not. The lines look wavy in the picture when I blow it up but I've shrunk it so much it gets unclear when I blow it up. I've got to come up with a better system on this photo resizing thing. rayrock
I finished up this cant cutting it into six 1x15s and three 4x4s.https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=11417;image
I got the Water Oak on the mill. First time 25 cent sawing will be tomorrow. My eyeball measurements taken from the tractor seat were off. It is 10 foot long and 26 inches big end.
I went to buck it today and saw a clothes line wire buried into it just past 8 foot. So I bucked it down to a hair over 8 feet.
Tim, nice looking lumber.
I had a couple of reverse snowbirds (Live in Fla but have 260 acres and an old farmhouse here) come by today to have me re-saw some old barn timbers into beams and posts for them. They wanted to save the hewed side for faces and the sawed sides will be against the wall. Not a big job but they were happy and tipped well. I suspect they will be back in the future.
I checked my cookie from yesterday and can't find the waves like in the picture Lynn posted so now I am not sure what kind of wood it is.
Quote from: caveman on March 10, 2024, 07:41:47 PMI would consider quartersawing that one at 5/4.
I have been reading threads on RRQS here and watching youtube videos. Normally, to me, 5/4 would be 1.25 inches. But I have seen other thicknesses being used for 5/4. I gather quarter sawn boards shrink a little more. So what do you cut your quarter sawn boards to? 1& 3/8"? 1& 7/16"?
Thankfully I only saw what the customer wants, and that generally ranges from 1" to 1 3/8".
I just saws um and leaves um. ffsmiley
Same here on customer picking the thickness. I will often saw a true 1" then a 1-1/8" or 1-3/16"and let them decide . Usually they want 1" or 1-1/8" depending on whether they are using it for sheeting or furniture or such but sometimes they will want to see what 3/4" or even 5/8" looks like. I am happy to cut a sample of each - it's their wood. I bill 5/4 (1.25") as 5/4 and anything thinner as 1" including if it is less than one inch where I tell the customer I drop back to square foot instead of board foot pricing. I bill my 6/4 (1.5") as 1.5". Today's sawing just was hourly. 3-4 cuts per log and we were done so the customer was happy with .4 hours. I mostly use the run meter on the mill like today. Once I start the mill I just leave it running on hourly jobs whereas I would normally shut it off between logs.
We only found one nail and the customer spotted it before I sawed into it so no blades were injured in the making of today's movie.
Tim,
I would always think of 1-1/4" for 5/4 but would understand 1-3/8" to allow for shrinkage. I'd be surprised if anyone would accept less then 1.25" as 5/4.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 12, 2024, 05:43:27 PMSame here on customer picking the thickness. I will often saw a true 1" then a 1-1/8" or 1-3/16"and let them decide . Usually they want 1" or 1-1/8" depending on whether they are using it for sheeting or furniture or such but sometimes they will want to see what 3/4" or even 5/8" looks like. I am happy to cut a sample of each - it's their wood. I bill 5/4 (1.25") as 5/4 and anything thinner as 1" including if it is less than one inch where I tell the customer I drop back to square foot instead of board foot pricing. I bill my 6/4 (1.5") as 1.5". Today's sawing just was hourly. 3-4 cuts per log and we were done so the customer was happy with .4 hours. I mostly use the run meter on the mill like today. Once I start the mill I just leave it running on hourly jobs whereas I would normally shut it off between logs.
We only found one nail and the customer spotted it before I sawed into it so no blades were injured in the making of today's movie.
Tim,
I would always think of 1-1/4" for 5/4 but would understand 1-3/8" to allow for shrinkage. I'd be surprised if anyone would accept less then 1.25" as 5/4.
I'm shooting in the dark here on what the customer's use or wanted thickness would be. First time I have sawn Oak not in a 3 inch slab.
So we agree on at least 1-3/8. So the main question is............how much more does quarter sawn lumber shrink compared to framing lumber?
Tim,
I'm sure not the right guy to ask about this as I don't own or use a kiln and those who dry wood would be a better source so hopefully they will chime in. I did find this article that may help. I know species will make a big difference.
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/dimensional-shrinkage/
My suggestion would be to ask the customer what thickness they want.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 12, 2024, 06:49:00 PMTim,
I'm sure not the right guy to ask about this as I don't own or use a kiln and those who dry wood would be a better source so hopefully they will chime in. I did find this article that may help. I know species will make a big difference.
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/dimensional-shrinkage/
My suggestion would be to ask the customer what thickness they want.
Thanks Howard. That is the problem with speculation sawing for an unknown customer....I can't ask him.
Sorry, I thought you had a customer lined up for the wood. What I can tell for speculation sawing is "It is always the wrong size." :uhoh: No matter what I saw they want it thicker/thinner, longer,/shorter wider/narrower.
One thing to remember is you/they can always make it shorter/smaller. Just tell the customer this is what you have and they can take it or leave it. That is why I try to keep mine in log form as long as possible. I only saw stock when I am afraid it will go bad on me. Then I saw what I figure I can use or what has sold well in the past.
Good luck.
There are many here who saw much more hardwood than we do. Generally, we saw 1/8" more than the 5/4 or 4/4 (1 3/8 and 1 1/8 respectively).
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 12, 2024, 07:54:45 PM"It is always the wrong size." :uhoh: No matter what I saw they want it thicker/thinner, longer,/shorter wider/narrower.
Murphy is cruel!
Quote from: caveman on March 12, 2024, 08:04:12 PMThere are many here who saw much more hardwood than we do. Generally, we saw 1/8" more than the 5/4 or 4/4 (1 3/8 and 1 1/8 respectively).
Thanks Caveman. I had the simple set at 1 7/16th today, but when I start quarter sawing the cant, I will do 1 3/8th. 1/8th over is what I do for SYP framing lumber.
Another question......Yellowhammer has a video where he quarter sawed a square cant after cutting it in half. Yet in his posts, he says go octagon. Which is better?
may be a smaller log. the octagon he refers to as a gun barrel. the key I think is that you can rock and roll the log and the pith is centered at each end so you do not need to keep adjusting as you go. so, a cant will do the same. you may get wider bords in spots with an octagon.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 12, 2024, 07:54:45 PMNo matter what I saw they want it thicker/thinner, longer,/shorter wider/narrower.
Inventory plus the lack of sheds is what put me out of the selling business and into the sawing only business.
I buy nothing, saw nothing on speculation, and sell nothing. That business profile is certainly not for everyone, but it has worked for me for over 20 years and over 3 million bf sawed.
I consider the longer shorter, thicker, thinner described by Howard, to be woodworking! ffsmiley
Good point. That's why they make glue, clamps, table saws, planers and epoxy.
The rains and wet ground are wrecking havoc with all of my sawing plans. Last week was pushed to this week and this week has been pushed to next week.
Even so, the forecast looks iffy for next week. whiteflag_smiley
I beat up on the Water Oak today.
I also dodged a nail by 1/8th inch. Only lost about 3 boards cause there was metal I couldn't locate.
Octagons tilt real easy.
As Eric OJH would say Cut up some Doug Fir. Got a 8x8 and some side lumber
Dan
Sawing spalted Maple from a standing dead tree. the boards are 6-8" wide. It's pretty stuff!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/IMG_0298.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352927)
I helped a neighbor a few years back to get 18 beautiful black walnut that had been on his land from the time he bought the 650 acre farm. He said they were decent sized in 1968 when he first moved in. They were along a field edge by the river with plenty of water and direct sunlight for the entire day. The smallest was around 20" at the small end and he wanted to give me half for helping him. He is 85 but I told him he should just keep all of it for his kitchen and dining table/chairs project. I couldn't bring myself to cheat him that bad and take advantage of his good nature. Wow they were very nice logs. I did cut some very nice red cedar that will be getting the benefit of my new mikron setworks when i get it installed on my mill. I have 10 tulip poplar that I wil be using to make sure everything's right before starting the cedar.
How about documenting the Mikron install with pictures and giving us a report.
I second that request. I'm very interested in how it goes for you.
Quote from: Magicman on March 14, 2024, 08:55:57 PMHow about documenting the Mikron install with pictures and giving us a report.
I think it's stuck in customs but it's only been there a couple of days. Don't know how long it will take but the last time I ordered from out of the country it took about a week for customs to clear it but I would be happy to document the install on my 2003 Timberking B20. I did tell them it's for the B20 and the kit is supposed to be customized for it. I would like to think it will make my investment worth it. I don't have any business plans for my mill but just the few projects I have planned will save enough money to at least break even and from there it's all gravy.
The Mikron would certainly get some serious consideration if my old non-supported SetWorks ever died. Less than $2k vs over $4k for AccuSet 2.
Old growth cedar for a Friend to repair his dock up the coast and some more Douglas fir.
Earlier this week I sawed up a bunch of logs I recovered as a result of the county clearing the right of way on my property. None of the logs were anything worth writing home about, but I still managed to get some 2x4, 2x6 and 2x8 plus some 1x to replenish my stash for personal use.
Everything went great and I think I cut some of the best wood I have ever cut. The saw was running great and cutting really straight. Especially considering most of the wood was Red Pine. Another great thing is that none of the wood has stained (so far). Every other time I had cut RP it has been warmer out and it immediately would begin to stain. I think its because the trees were dropped early enough that the sap hadnt started running plus cool weather and low humidity.
I did get one small maple log that I sawed. It was too small but figured Id saw it just because I dont get much maple. When I was sawing it I swear it smelled a little like fish??
Quote from: TimW on March 13, 2024, 12:10:00 AMQuote from: caveman on March 12, 2024, 08:04:12 PMThere are many here who saw much more hardwood than we do. Generally, we saw 1/8" more than the 5/4 or 4/4 (1 3/8 and 1 1/8 respectively).
Thanks Caveman. I had the simple set at 1 7/16th today, but when I start quarter sawing the cant, I will do 1 3/8th. 1/8th over is what I do for SYP framing lumber.
Another question......Yellowhammer has a video where he quarter sawed a square cant after cutting it in half. Yet in his posts, he says go octagon. Which is better?
TimW I alaws saw according to the WM scale on the mill. I set my SS works for hardwood @ 1.25 and then the board comes off the mill at 1 1/8". 5/4 is set at 1.5" and it comes off the mill at 1 3/8".
Some will cut that down at bit, 1/16' , if they have good stacking and stickering and KD, or they use the wood for themselves and know they can shave a bit off.
The soft wood scale is 1 1/8" and the board comes off the mill at 1"
I would much rather be sawing than doing this crappy carpenter work. It takes me back to the reason that I bought a sawmill 22 years ago. ffsmiley
Quote from: Stephen1 on March 19, 2024, 08:27:19 AMQuote from: TimW on March 13, 2024, 12:10:00 AMQuote from: caveman on March 12, 2024, 08:04:12 PMThere are many here who saw much more hardwood than we do. Generally, we saw 1/8" more than the 5/4 or 4/4 (1 3/8 and 1 1/8 respectively).
Thanks Caveman. I had the simple set at 1 7/16th today, but when I start quarter sawing the cant, I will do 1 3/8th. 1/8th over is what I do for SYP framing lumber.
Another question......Yellowhammer has a video where he quarter sawed a square cant after cutting it in half. Yet in his posts, he says go octagon. Which is better?
TimW I alaws saw according to the WM scale on the mill. I set my SS works for hardwood @ 1.25 and then the board comes off the mill at 1 1/8". 5/4 is set at 1.5" and it comes off the mill at 1 3/8".
Some will cut that down at bit, 1/16' , if they have good stacking and stickering and KD, or they use the wood for themselves and know they can shave a bit off.
The soft wood scale is 1 1/8" and the board comes off the mill at 1"
I was just trying to find the exact extra shrinkage of quarter sawn wood over straight cut wood for the simple set settings. I read on here somewhere quarter sawn shrinks more.
I think quarter sawn shrinks more in thickness and flat in width. if you look at the grain, it is the same base on grain orientation by %. but thick at 4/4 by % is less overall vs width. so, a smaller number, if that makes sense. flat will tend to cup more as it dries.
Quote from: Magicman on March 19, 2024, 01:46:57 PMI would much rather be sawing than doing this crappy carpenter work.
I got two texts yesterday wanting to know "when"?
I told both of them "when I finish the job that I am on". I did not tell either of them that the job that I am on is PatD's deck rebuild. :wink_2:
Cut some Magnolia yesterday evening for a customer. I guess 6" mantels are in style now? My wife has requested the 4/4 boards be used for a boxed beam in the living room.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/71398/IMG_0675.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353003)
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Spalted Maple
IMG_4337.jpg
I'm trying to master the pic posting protocol.....
Quote from: Hamajama on March 20, 2024, 08:15:55 AMCut some Magnolia yesterday evening for a customer..... My wife has requested the 4/4 boards be used for a boxed beam
Magnolia is some strange but beautiful wood with those blackish streaks. I call it "character".
And I also milled a 7"x7" Spalted Maple Mantel for one of my best Customers. Hobby Sawmilling for fun & $$$$$IMG_4281.jpgIMG_4280.jpg
Purdy. :thumbsup:
Quote from: Magicman on March 20, 2024, 09:04:59 AMPurdy. :thumbsup:
"Does this money in my wallet make me look fat?"
Nope! no more than usual!!! ffcool ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffsmiley ffsmiley ffsmiley :thumbsup: :usa:
Okay, My first off-site job of the year. 51 miles away, past the 38th Parallel, past the big Boy Scout Campground and just short of the famous "Longest Single Arch Bridge in the Northern Hemisphere" (Was the longest int he world till China built one longer. Reminds Me "You sit here. No talk. I go work on bridge. Come back for you later -maybe").
The customer asked for a 9:00 start which is late for me. Usually is is first daylight till can't see no more! I stopped by HF and got some more gloves and a 4 gallon sprayer they had on sale and I had a coupon. I arrived 2 minutes early and nobody was there. I made a couple of calls and visited with her dogs then 15-20 minutes later the lady came up from the barn. Her help was a no show so just her (Us?) and her boyfriend I had met and who had referred me. She showed me the logs which were very scattered so I picked a fairly central down hill spot and set up while she dragged pallets out and we waited for her beau who showed up with a trailer load of round bales he had to unload first.
I cut off a 6' chunk from a scrap log and he loaded it on the mill and I sawed stickers while she arranged pallets for stacking different lengths and sizes.
We finally got rolling and the two of them were fair but not great help so I ended up moving more logs and slabs than I like but they were nice folks and I was enjoying their company. We sawed toll about 5:30 or so, 4.8 hours on the mill. 3.4 gallons of gas. One blade change which immediately hit a bullet and knocked one tooth out of set.
I left the mill set up for tomorrow and tools scattered around as she is at the end of the road with 4-5 big alert dogs. I did not tally today but probably 1100 or so BF of mostly 8/4 poplar, mostly 12' with a little 8/4 and 4/4 8' boards. We'll start again tomorrow and hopefully can finish. I hope she finds more help as we wore her 70+ y/o boyfriend (and this old miller) to a frazzle. I'd guess we finished half the logs in the mix. We are already set up. The mill is working good so hopefully we can knock out the rest. Once we finish the framing lumber it will be a lot more 8' and 4/4 siding.
The lady has a very large farm and rents out one house as a BNB and part of the attraction is a farm tour. If she can con them into stacking hay and castrating pigs she will be golden. She says it is amazing the city slickers who love the farm life! She is retired from the park service and moved here from Massychoostits.
Sounds like you are gonna make a good situation out of it after all. :thumbsup:
Yeah, I met the guy years ago sawing logs for his neighbor. he brought his tractor in and moved some logs and lumber for us then set it for me to do a workshop for the USDA and WV Forestry people and I got more customers and contacts from that so I can do a little more here than for some. He also told me about a kiln service the Amish near here have set up which is open to the public which is a very good thing to know.
Some jobs are like that, sometimes more labour than we have planned but all good. especially the 1st job of the year.
One of my repeat customers is tight with his money. Oh he's got money, he just hates to part with it. The last job for him was a white oak job. He wanted a "few" 12/4 live edge pieces, mostly 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 all 6" and 8" wide. On the phone I suggested he get a helper for the day.
On the day of the job, I asked did he have any help coming? His response was, "we can handle it." Reading between the lines, I heard, "I ain't paying for help, I have YOU!"
I bit my tongue before I asked "We? Do you have a mouse in your pocket?" Instead I resolved to just do as he wanted. So I cut a 12/4x20" wide 12' long early on. We slid it off on the bucket of his little 23 hp Kubota BX TBL/lawn mower.
After we got it moved and resting on some dunnage, he said he only "needed that one." ffsmiley
Then I started on 8/4 x 8s and 8/4 x 6s 12' long. It was funny how as the day went on he wanted more and more 5/4 lumber and we finished with 4/4. ffsmiley
Sometimes I give a little discount for a good day with good help. That wasn't one of those times...the rate is the rate if I'm sawing or moving lumber!
that may be why he has money, but at some point, it will cost him more. you were surely the highest paid help there that day. that is why I charge (when I charge) by the hour, and it starts at my drive as we unload the logs and ends with a handshake before they leave. If I spend an hour helping them load, talking about stickering etc., that is included. If they are a vet, or a family that I work with, I am generous to the point of no charge. If they are an affluent out of the blue person, I charge a hundred bucks and hour. If I enjoy them and we chat a bit, no charge for that time.
I went back today and the lady had located a good young man who turned out to be a decent helper. Not the best I have had but I've sure had a lot worse. Unfortunately he had to leave at 5:30 pm to go to his regular job. We had 3 logs left in the pile to cut. I have an important engagement tomorrow afternoon I cannot miss ( 12 y/o GD birthday party) but I agreed to come back in the morning. She has 3 logs in the original pile and 3 oak log on the entrance road. One is real big but has a big split in the middle that I may have to split with a chain saw. She mentioned a cherry log on the other side of a fence so we will see if she tries to bring it in.
We had one gnarly 8' poplar log with sweep and swell and loaded off center that was a bear but finally produced after way too much effort. My drive belt jumped off one time and I have no idea why but was a quick and easy fix to jump it back on and back to sawing. I'm having an issue with my debarker not wanting to swing out properly at times. I better check in the AM to see if something is stuck in it like a piece of bark. I'd like something simple. Worst case the WM service loop team can look at in in a couple of weeks as I signed up for them to come visit.
Still no tally but we did a quick estimate on the 8' stack of 4/4 boards on the right int he picture below. Tallest stack. It has 700 bf in it but there may be more in the 12' framing stacks and I have some 4X6 posts which add up quick. One 12' log for tomorrow I think will yield 5 more such posts.
I've had many better jobs but many were worse and it was good company. I used 4 blades - one of which broke through normal wear and tear. 4.9 engine hours and used 3.8 gallons of gas.
Well, I went back and arrived at 8 am. Unfortunately our big strong young helper did not show up till noon. We only had 3 logs left to saw. The one in the picture with the hole we did not bother with. The long one I cut into a 12' and a 7'. The big 12' one we cut into 4X6X12 posts. I think I cut 10 out of it but one was only 10' due to bark on one end. They were a handful for this old sawyer and a skinny 68 y/o lady client to tote! But we got them stacked. I forgot to take a final picture as I was rushed to get loaded and back to a BD party for my 12 y/o GD. I came hoe, left the tools covered in my truck, threw the cover over the mill and left it hooked to the truck to unload tomorrow.
Final tally for the job was 2718 bf. The lady was thrilled with the lumber and paid with a nice tip. I enjoy working with people who appreciate the effort I put out and skill I have developed. It makes all the hard work worthwhile even though I normally don't plan on stacking heavy timbers and lumber. For special people you can do more.
My debarker is still not swinging out of the way properly and I haven't figured out why. It seems to struggle to swing out of the way. I did find if I swing it all the way in it seems to give it more momentum an it swings out better.
Howard, I do believe your mill lives outside like mine. The shaft that the debarker pivots on can get gummed up from moisture, even though you keep it well greased. That will hinder it from moving freely. That's what happened to mine once, anyhow.
I realize that my 3/4 hp Leeson motor is much heavier but I tend to set my mill up with the loader side a bit higher to allow the weight of the debarker to provide some advantage. If the loader side is much lower, it may/will not pull tightly into the log.
BB,
Yes, my mill lives outside. I am diligent (Anal?) about keeping it covered with the nylon cover but it is getting pretty ragged and I am sure there is plenty of moisture in the area. Any suggestions on how to "ungum" it if that is the case? I squirt ATF up there pretty regular. You'd think just working it would remove any rust and I really don't think it is rust.
I do have the service team coming on their loop soon and if not fixed by then we will pick their brains about it.
Lynn,
You may have just answered my problem because I did have the loader side a little higher than the other on this set up so the arm would have had to be swinging more uphill. I'll check it in an hour or two when I unhook the mill and set it up here at home on level ground. I bet that is part if not the entire problem. Thanks.
It was working good against the log - the spring there works as designed but it was struggling to swing away when not needed.
I never have a problem with the debarker pulling away from the log, just hesitant to pull tightly into the log if the loader is not a bit high.
When I grease my swing shaft, I get the help to continually swing it in and out while I am pumping grease. While doing this, I give it a very excessive greasing to completely change out the grease. That plus use a good high pressure #2 grease. The cleanup can be a bit messy, but the joint is well greased.
Lynn,
Grease for a debarker? Maybe I'm missing a grease zerk (zert) in my service. Never seen one up there? I just squirt ATF around the moving areas in mine.
"Um, no I didn't get any new logs, I just moved those from the back of the pile" ;)
I finally found a good Ash log big enough to cut a 8.5"x14.5" tie beam to match my other one. Somehow it's 4 brothers followed me home too. I couldn't vary well break up the set, could I?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/thumbnail_processed-9026AF0E-C1E7-45B4-AA6F-F3234EEB439F.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353137)
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Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 23, 2024, 07:46:24 AMGrease for a debarker? Maybe I'm missing a grease zerk (zert) in my service. Never seen one up there?
The LT40 and the LT35 may very well be completely different. There are actually two on mine.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 23, 2024, 07:46:24 AMLynn,
Grease for a debarker? Maybe I'm missing a grease zerk (zert) in my service. Never seen one up there? I just squirt ATF around the moving areas in mine.
MMs and yours probably different. My old 2001 super and his debarker pivots on zerk-greased shaft. My 70super wide has shaft with bearings no zerk.
Feeble/erratic in out could come from pivot motor pulley belt loose, pulley roll pin broken, pivot motor brushes almost gone, motor wire connection compromised. Ive had all these happen plus relays giving out. Dont tighten belt too tight will break pivot motor shaft early. Like MM said have loader side 1/2 bubble high in setup helps.
I went out and washed and checked the mill and the debarker seemed to work fine but i have the mill set up on level. The other day when I had problems the arm was swinging uphill and was in more of a strain.
I did check and there is no grease zerk on my debarker so MM and I have different designs on our mills.
I do wish WM had included a chart of the grease points on my mill in my manual. I think I service them all but it would be nice to have a factory checklist to verify against. Maybe the WM folks will read this suggestion and add such a checklist on manuals for future mills they make.
I bet the service guy will have one in writing or in their head.
Seems like I was told there were 12 or 13 grease fittings on the LT35.
I was told there are a bunch of grease fittings on the LT50, I would just have to look for them. There are six just on the FAOs.
A chart or diagram would be very useful.
Ted,
Further to your earlier comment about a possible loose belt I had thought that but the only belt I can find seems to run the blade on the debarker but I don't see where it would have anything to do with the swing in and out function. I honestly have not tracked down or figured that out yet. It always just worked before and the only adjustments I have ever had to make was in the tracking to make sure it runs right ahead of the blade and right now that is perfect. I love seeing that 1/8" band spinning right in the middle of that 1/4" groove from the debarker blade. I had considered changing the the half inch blade but backed off when I heard it could cause the braker to trip more which seems highly likely with more surface area and no additional power to the blade.
Thinking back that blade is directly on the shaft of the motor I better go check that belt gain because a loose belt slipping would have caused the issue I had the other day. Especially now I remember the blade is directly on the motor.
Howard, I'm tired and haven't had lunch yet (yeah it's almost 7:30), but I have wanted to chime in here for a day or so. First, woodmizer has so many revisions on these debarker assemblies that I think they can't keep track of them all. Between my experience trying to troubleshoot the constant breaker popping issue and then replacing a busted up swing arm and them sending us 2 totally different arms that would not fit the machine in any way. I realized there was an engineering documentation issue, big time. They don't mark their parts with revision letters and have no idea which revision is on which machine serial number. That's a problem. Between my experience and talking with Terrifictimbers in a long conversation on the road to last year's Pro-ject, I realized we are all on our own. Which is fine. Zerks? Bearings? No zerks and no bearings? Pin thru the whole arm and welded on both sides? Pin welded into only one side? Whatever. It just tales time and patience. In your case with the belt, the swing motor belt is the one being talked about, it goes from the small swing motor to a pulley on the swing arm. That is a pretty small belt, Adjusting that properly does matter. As said, don't over tighten it, but do make sure it's not slipping. The swing motor is not cheap (and they have had revisions on that too, adding a brake for some machines like the 50). It should be in the debarker manual.
You'll figure this out. I know when I was working on ours I adjusted the belt and normal woork and the swing got snappier, of course I have just put in the updated motor with brake at the same time, so who's to know what did it. I did notice it was terribly tight when I tore it down.
Good lick, you got this. Take you time, think it through and keep all the preceding guidance form the smart guys in mind, maybe even mine too. ffcheesy
Yeah and as I said before I have the WM service loop team/tech coming real soon so I can mention it to them/him and get professional input. It is working as designed and just the swing function as a little out of whack when parked off level but seems fine when set up level.
The 35 does have a belt.
Here's the debarker for the LT 35 exploded view parts diagram. Item 17 is the belt.
https://apps.woodmizer.com/Manuals/EngDoc.aspx?man=%5c%5cSkynet.Woodmizer.Indy%5cmanuals2%5csawmill%5coptions%5cdebarker%5cpdf%5c2048.pdf
The blade is direct drive of the motor shaft.
Over time the belt will dry out and become stiff. And will keep a memory to the shape. See the belt only turns 1/2 way to get the thing in and out. A new belt will fix it. I use ATF too. Up here in the cold grease will get hard.
Yes, it has a belt. I had never really considered what made the arm swing in and out (I hit the toggle and it went in and out for the last 8 years) but I looked at it a few minutes ago and it clearly the belt. Flip the toggle switch right and the belt spins one way and the arm swings out. Flip the switch to the left and the gelt rotates the opposite direction and the arm swings in. I checked and can't find any bark or sawdust in there interfering with the operation. The problem last week was certainly consistent with a slipping belt. The belt seems tight. but works good when set up level. If it happens again I'll tighten the belt or replace it. I will check again but am pretty sure it is the same belt as the power feed belt and also same as the up down belt and I keep a spare in my kit all the time.
BTW it has bearings and little pulleys and no need to grease a zerk. ATF should work fine on it.
While I was at it I took my sewing kit and patched a couple of holes in my cover. I forgot how easy it was so I won't wait that long the next time I tear or burn a hole in the nylon cover.
My 2018 LT40 wide only has one zert fitting on the debarker pivot lock latch.
I'll try here not to generalize very much, because there are so many versions of the WM debarker out there and mine is the most primitive. On mine, it doesn't spin the belt so much as the one pulley kind of rides it around. You'll see wear marks on the belt where it goes back and forth. The belt never makes a full revolution, and it tends to get glazed where the pulley rides back and forth.
I see the [girls-- sisters] have a new 70. With all the videos they do I wonder if WM gives them a big discount on the mill, or free. Or they make more $$ on the videos than cutting logs. I see videos even some from here. They start with old stuff. In no time they have all kinds of new toys in the yard. You can see they don't cut enough wood to pay for all the stuff.
I mean looking at YH and customsawer with there new stuff. But there cutting wood and a lot of it to get there toys like me. You can see it, the real deal. Most don't have a log or lumber in the yard but have all the toys. ffcheesy
Maybe if I hire a tall blond in spandex to walk around the mill while I take videos I could get another HOT ROD. ffcheesy
Peter,
What girls/sisters are you talking about.
I think they are in PA. I won't say their name here, The BOSS might not like that. ffsmiley
I believe they saw more than appears on YouTube.
Their dad bought an LT 15 in 2008 to saw crossties to make it through the downturn. He did. He is a logger, their facility has a file room, edger, kilns, firewood processor and so on. They still saw crossties on the LT15.
A few months back they showed several building projects that used their products.
Yes, I'm a bit of a follower. Is what they do always the best, not by far, but they appear to be a whole family operation - dad, mom, 2 daughters, a son and grandpa all have been in videos.
If you've ever seen their mother, you'll know where the girls get their looks! A video a few weeks ago showed mom helping grandpa route a new hydraulic line on the LT40.
All good, they have a nice family. I just think WM helps them a lot to advertise WM stuff. Not a bad thing. Don't know about the PC stuff and $$ for videos on the net.
That must help some with $$. Making videos is work too I bet. ffsmiley
they are fun to watch. the grandpa does much of the maintenance. i wonder if much of the content is coached, but they were home schooled and you cannot teach someone to handle lumber and slabs like that, so to some degree, they must be the real deal. They recently started dancing in videos and that turned me off as far as the legitimacy of the girls and the operation. the one girl can back a trailer shown in a firewood video. I think the girls worked there and brought YouTube/social media to the mill. I recently watched the video of the new mill, and recommended in the comment that they get the yellowhammer drag back mod. so they can move the slabs and lumber to the far end. the saw direction is reversed on this mill, so the drag back is more of a push forward, and the mill cuts towards you. I follow Robert, Nathan, Jeff and a few others as well as these gals on you tube.
How Fast Can I Mill a Railroad Tie with Our New LT70 Woodmizer Sawmill (huh, who knew...) (youtube.com) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Piu0BOnQAFc)
See post 434.
My son was eager to learn to operate the equipment including the chainsaw and got pretty decent but then he got a girlfriend and a job at manufacturing plant and just flat out quit. He hasn't been on any equipment in about 5-6 yrs. I like to watch the girls work and pick up the reins and carry it forward. I follow several of the sawyers on the tube. My boy has a good work ethic like them but no longer takes any interest in the trees or farm work. But I went off and worked out and about myself for several yrs before I came back to it so I guess I'll have to wait and see how it turns out.
Father and son work their circular saw operation together and make some good videos. Each change off sawing and doing the off bearing.
One of their recent ones, sawing 4 x 8's.
Watching this video, it seems that they are sawing strictly to achieve their target dimension without any account for the location of the pith or possible stress in the log. Is that typical of a circle mill? Are these things less critical because they are sawing large 4 x 8 pieces?
Hey! I've been to that sawmill! "Dad" is the Saw Doctor on Watertank Road in Fleetwood NC - Ashe County. I took him a circle saw blade to so he could hammer it.
That little mill was just getting going because the young man wanted to have a sawmill.
Dad was a saw filer for a couple different mills in the area and runs his own shop now.
beenthere (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=180) i I used that video to show my wife what the mill i sawed on 60 years ago was like.. Only difference was the mill I sawed with had an electric motor and was in a building and the logs first ran through a debarker.
fluidpowerpro, Would you put up that pix of your blade de-setter?
I'm making one and having trouble.
Here's mine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180607_de-setter_b.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=248187)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20180607_de-setter_a.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=248186)
Mounted on a plate I had laying around.
Has anybody used the rollers that are put on the back of trailers and campers to keep them from dragging to build a desetter?
I have a set of those 2" diameter RV rollers.
Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 28, 2024, 06:46:22 AMfluidpowerpro, Would you put up that pix of your blade de-setter?
I'm making one and having troub
I used roller bearings for the one I built. If I were to build another one I would use larger bearings. I think it would roll easier when pulling the blade through.
If you would like, I can make a dimensional sketch of mine and post it.
Realize that it's a one off prototype so there are probably things that can be improved.
I'm having trouble posting the pix. Says file is too large. Is there a way to post from your gallery like in the past? There are pix in my gallery. I'll work on it...
Quote from: fluidpowerpro on March 28, 2024, 12:34:56 PMQuote from: Peter Drouin on March 28, 2024, 06:46:22 AMfluidpowerpro, Would you put up that pix of your blade de-setter?
I'm making one and having troub
I used roller bearings for the one I built. If I were to build another one I would use larger bearings. I think it would roll easier when pulling the blade through.
If you would like, I can make a dimensional sketch of mine and post it.
Realize that it's a one off prototype so there are probably things that can be improved.
I'm having trouble posting the pix. Says file is too large. Is there a way to post from your gallery like in the past? There are pix in my gallery. I'll work on it...
The word "PROTOTYPE" speaks volumes.
GAB
Yes, everything I build is a prototype.
Here are some pix.
To describe a bit.
Its 2 rectangular steel blocks.
One is welded to an angle iron to facilitate mounting into a vice.
The other is movable allows me to adjust the gap on the rollers.
The T handle bolt pushes on the movable block to adjust the gap.
If you have an android phone you can edit your picture in your phone gallery. It will give you options of 20, 40, 60, 80% to resize to. 60% usually works for me.
Thank you. I will explore that.
Thanks. I think I went with too thin of steel 1/4" or less. I was getting flex in the base plate. I have some 3/8"---1/2" around flat stock I will add to the bottom.
Sawed a poplar log I had on deck that was old enough that the bark was coming off pretty easily so I peeled it.Wasn't sure it would still be good but it made some pretty good sheeting although I had to turn it several times to release tension. I'm getting a little better but not any faster. forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=om/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=(blob:https://forestryforum.com/262fa86a-362b-48bc-a088-fb440fd33e69)[/url][/url]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jF71Q7Wz5B8
I asked twice who the girls were but never got an answer so I am assuming it is the 2 young ladies in the above video. If not, please feel free to correct me. They are very attractive and if they got an LT70 and are speeding up their sawing I am happy for them because if they saw any slower than they did in this video the next seedling will grow into a sawlog before they finish sawing this log.
Howard, I posted a video on about #439 post. Might be off by one as I look in reverse order. they seem like nice kids, but the one cannot say log yard very fast. ffsmiley
Doc,
Thanks. I missed the railroad tie. Does not look like the same 2 girls as this looked like a middle age lady instead of the 2 blondes. They may be her daughters. I know the girls in the video I posted never turned a heavy log/cant on their own.
Those are bad. Way too fat to show off in those outfits. But sex sells, so guess they will go for it.
Those aren't the sisters we've been talking about, that are part of a family sawing operation. They dress decent, unlike the spandex twins in Howard's link.
Howard, that was da ultimate in spandex sawmill videos ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Emerald and Jade are the young ladies who are part of the family business, Lumber Capital Log Yard.
They aren't fast at sawing in their videos -remember slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
Howard- "here's those nice young ladies y'all been talkin' 'bout!" 😁😂
Someone made a parody with that spandex gal that was pretty rich, I'd link it but it's a TikTok and it doesn't work.
Jade and Emerald seem like decent folk. Home schooled. they do or did competitive dance. they seem like they actually work there. Younger brother Judah does mostly firewood. I do not know how much support they get for the videos but some of the slow is talking and making a point to take a drink of coffee. The grandpa does the mechanical and maint. work. they at least show family meals with three generations. the dad does the bigger logging with a skidder. They recently did a rebuild with a new engine. No big drama, other than now they occasionally break into a dance. Prob to get likes and followers. The mom works there as well. you can tell they all actually work and are not just putting lipstick on a pig. A little more "hippish" rather than red neck. I made a comment recently with the new mill recommending the grandpa look at
@YellowHammer mill mod. for the drag back. I got a response from someone I had not heard of. It must be an online coordinator.
It surprises me that they haven't gotten a reality TV show offer.
Quote from: barbender on April 02, 2024, 07:59:16 AMHoward- "here's those nice young ladies y'all been talkin' 'bout!" 😁😂
Where?
looks like from the post it was tik Tok and it did not work to post it. their business is called lumber capitol log yard. Emerald (red hair) has a strong PA accent and slows her speech on Log Yard. they have tons of you tube stuff. They are the ones from my video. I assume. they wear Carhart not spandex.
We started out not wanting to say their name, as it is like advertising for them. but now you barely need to even watch the videos. ffsmiley
That was tongue in cheek. We were all talking about the Luumber Capitol videos, with the nice young ladies in Carharts. Howard came along and posted a video of a couple of spandex queens, thinking that he found the girls we were talking about.
I did a search and found several videos of Emerald and Jade. They are light years ahead of the spandex queens when it comes to sawing. Wearing jeans and flannel shirts or shorts and work shirts which seem much more appropriate for the work. I am surprised I am not seeming them wearing gloves for the most part.
Like Howard, scanning YT for sawmill info and ideas is much better than turning into a mental vegetable by watching Netflix.
Well, ok. . . maybe a little
less of a vegetable.
Do you guys find that there seems to be three broad categories of this content?
- The "Entry Level" footage that manufacturers publish, so that the new folks can get an easy start and brag about their stack of lumber to the family. It's got that justify the purchase tone.
- The "Click Bait" content that has one purpose only. To get you to give a thumbs up, comment and subscribe. If it takes nubile cleavage and spandex to do it, well, then that's what they'll do. Entertainment, yes. Informative, nope not for this wood butcher. They're in it for the money, honey.
The gals at Lumber Capital operate at the higher end of this grouping, but the yoga poses and dance moves pretty much lock em into the eye-candy category.
- My personal opinion: the very best "Masters Level" YouTube series, for stay-at-home millers, are put up by our very own
@YellowHammer.
The David Letterman of band sawmill YouTubers. Young Robert has found his on-screen voice, which is detailed and logical while being humorous at his own expense. "Well, I probably solved your insomnia problem with this video." Another personal preference;
@PAmizerman has really good workflow videos that show how a single person can process lumber without breaking their back. Funny, I've never heard him say a single word on a video, he's similar to Jimmy DiResta that way.
There's a bunch of FF members that produce great video content. All of them contribute to the collection of skills and knowledge required to remove the sawdust from between high quality lumber.
The ones that appeal to each of us probably relate to where we are - looking to make ourselves better sawyers.
Still sawing poplar and I learned a little trick.Some probably already do this but I'm a slow learner.I pull each board off as I saw it mostly because I don't like cranking head up and down.Blade drags some sawdust off when pulling head back but not all so I started running blade at slow speed while dragging back and found it cleaned all sawdust off.Nothing spectacular but I like it.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/388C7561-2452-4323-A444-15C20B4FE228.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353296)
Another small stack of boards (blob:https://forestryforum.com/b726acf0-2290-44cd-807d-4816755f2748)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/55B0A6B5-1E2D-4EE5-905E-17BED9484836.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/g%20gallery)
Tulip has to be one of my most favorite species to saw. While I was typing that I was thinking; well what is my most favorite?? I certainly saw more SYP than anything so it's my "money" species and I love to saw Cypress. I saw a lot of ERC, but it would never be a favorite. The Oaks are OK and QS is nice but they are what they are. Walnut & Cherry are specialty trees but not enough nor often enough. I dislike sawing troublesome species such as Sycamore, Elm, Sweetgum, Hackberry, etc. that may not produce for the customer.
I have gone through them all and I'm back to.....Tulip. :thumbsup:
Dug up another White Oak tree that died from the heat last summer. I thought it would be enough to finish decking the trailer deck, but it had some major rot and I need to dig up another one for 4 more deck boards.
(about:invalid)
A repeat customer wanted a 8 foot long mantel with massive 12 x12 live edge dimensions. I took off a lot of one inch boards and edged 5 of them to 20 inches.
I didn't take a photo of the mantel, so I will get that tomorrow, as someone (Howard) might holler it didn't happen.
(about:invalid)
My first whole house customer wants to had a huge awning to his shop, so I cut 20 foot full size 2x10s today.
(about:invalid)
Looking good Tim. :thumbsup:
If the White Oak is not heartwood, yes it will rot. :uhoh:
Tim,
Are the darker boards on your trailer just older cuts?
Did your customer have you square up the back side of the mantel to fit against the wall? Did I real this right he wanted a 12" thick mantel??? I like a 3 to 4 inch thick mantel and try to make them at least 12" wide free of bark. If they turn the live edge sloping up the get a wider face on top. If they turn it down they get to see more of the live edge but have a narrower face on top. I cut most of my mantels 8' to 10' long even though often they only need about 6'. I tell them the extra is available for making corbels.
One tip I learned washing watching Poston one day was to give them a thin trim cut off the mantle log to let them use to test various stains and finishes. I thought it was a good idea (even though he was from SC :wink_2: ).
Lynn,
I did not see hickory or pecan listed in your wood favorites so I assume they are an "etc". ffcheesy
I agree on the tulip poplar and I bet over half of what I was is tulip. I do drool when I see those nice straight STYP though.
Howard,
All the 4 foot boards are new from two different trees, cut months apart. Likewise, 4 of the 20 foot darker boards are new and 4 of the 20 foot darker boards are needing to be replaced.
This is the tree for the replacing the rest of the boards. It died in last year's heat. It had a severe lean directly into huge Water Oak. I tried to dig it (and push it) so it would fall 90 degrees to the lean. It worked, but only changing the direction of lean only 45 degrees.
Right into another huge Water Oak and the top forks straddled the Water Oak. You can see how far up the trunk it was wedged from the missing bark.
From a 15x15 foot hole dug around the tree, I had to dig behind the root ball and pull it down out of the other tree. I ended up with about a 30 x 15 foot hole after dragging the whole tree out of the standing tree. I backfilled the hole as I dug out more room to drag it.
So Y'all up in the hills are not the only forks having problems fetchin trees off of your place.
(about:invalid) (about:invalid)
(about:invalid)
The customer wanted a 12x12 mantel with live edge. It finished up 11.5 with the live edge. That is a neat idea providing wood sample to try different stains!
Quote from: Magicman on April 03, 2024, 07:41:36 AMLooking good Tim. :thumbsup:
If the White Oak is not heartwood, yes it will rot. :uhoh:
It was odd as it was heartwood and near a knot with lots of soft wood tissue. Some kind of fungus?
On one board at the side edge of the trailer, I took a draw knife and removed the soft tissue and used the board. Functional, but kinda ugly. Wouldn't have done that to a customer's board.
Yup, stuff still happens which is why there are no hard fast rules. I have some sapwood on my trailer that got a good dose of whatever oil was in the "discard" bucket. Oil softens wood but it also may keep the moisture out and prolong trailer decking's life. The heartwood really will not soak up the oil for the same reason that it sheds water. :thumbsup:
Tim,
What kind of wood did you use for the 12X12 mantel? I'm thinking if it is oak its gonna be real heavy!
I remember one time I had a Black Cherry log with a lot of sweep and I cut at least 2 3" thick mantels out of it. I centered the curve down on my mill and used my rollers to level it up on both ends and sawed the back square to fit against the wall then I flipped it 90 degrees, put the square edge against the side supports and sawed parallel to the curve (Like big boomerangs). The mantels started at about 7-8 inches on each end and widened to 12" in the middle with the front live edge of course. I had a thin trim cut and one of my customers commented that it looked like an old cross-cut saw that went from narrow to wide on each end. I had a customer come by who had 2 fireplaces in his new home and he jumped on those curved mantels and bought both of them from me. It was a real different and real pretty way to use that piece of wood.
WV
Why were you washing Poston? :uhoh: :uhoh:
Quote One tip I learned washing Poston one day was to give them a thin trim
BT,
I guess I was working down wind of him. ffcheesy Dang that spell check/auto-correct.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 03, 2024, 09:01:56 AMLynn,
I did not see hickory or pecan listed in your wood favorites so I assume they are an "etc". ffcheesy
Yes, a very distant etc. :veryangry:
Quote from: beenthere on April 03, 2024, 01:55:28 PMWV
Why were you washing Poston? :uhoh: :uhoh:
QuoteOne tip I learned washing Poston one day was to give them a thin trim
I was gonna reply to this but forgot when I finished laughing.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 03, 2024, 01:49:04 PMTim,
What kind of wood did you use for the 12X12 mantel? I'm thinking if it is oak its gonna be real heavy!
I remember one time I had a Black Cherry log with a lot of sweep and I cut at least 2 3" thick mantels out of it. I centered the curve down on my mill and used my rollers to level it up on both ends and sawed the back square to fit against the wall then I flipped it 90 degrees, put the square edge against the side supports and sawed parallel to the curve (Like big boomerangs). The mantels started at about 7-8 inches on each end and widened to 12" in the middle with the front live edge of course. I had a thin trim cut and one of my customers commented that it looked like an old cross-cut saw that went from narrow to wide on each end. I had a customer come by who had 2 fireplaces in his new home and he jumped on those curved mantels and bought both of them from me. It was a real different and real pretty way to use that piece of wood.
How about a photo of those curved mantels?
I will give you a hint. It is on the left in the photo...........
(about:invalid)
I'm guessing pine from what I see.
I could not find a picture of the curved mantels. I probably never took one of them. They are easy to make if you come across the right piece of wood.
Tim,
(Only for you) I walked out to the barn and pulled a similar cherry mantel out of stock to the 2 I talked about earlier. This one is 4" thick instead of 3" and is still rough (no sanding or finish). It is about 14-15 inches wide at the center and 10" or so at each end. This one has some character (Splitting) but will make someone a beautiful mantel with very little work. It probably weighs around 200 lbs or so.
The back has been sawed square to fit against the wall. It looks to be about 10' long but I did not measure it. I really need to do a better job of marketing these I need to run a special ad or Craigslist and start taking a sample with me to my flea market shows to let people know they are available.
Pine....hit a pig win a prize. You win! The mantel is huge.
I took some photos outside with my phone, but I don't know how to resize them. I will have to take more with my Kodak camera.
(about:invalid)
(about:invalid)
Lynn,
I cut the White Oak open and got 6 more boards for the trailer deck. Here is the majority of the defects in the heart. It is intermittent where ERC has a chimney of defects or decay.
I cut all the sapwood into firewood for my daughter. Forklift pallet with sideboards for a truck ride. This makes two pallets ready to go for a ride.
(about:invalid)
Depending upon the use, defects such as that are not a problem with trailer decking, or for me, bridge decking.
I would not want Holy WO on my trailer but agree it might work fine for bridge timbers if it is thick enough.
After we had been here a few years my bridge wore out and I bought 27 2"X8"X12' WO boards from a local mill. My wife drover her Ford half toon P/U over to get them. When she got in the truck she told the folks there "My truck drives funny now." They looked and said "Yeah, that happens when the front wheels are off the ground." They unloaded half and she made 2 slow trips down the mountain with them.
Quote from: Magicman on April 04, 2024, 07:06:08 AMDepending upon the use, defects such as that are not a problem with trailer decking, or for me, bridge decking.
Oh I am using these boards on the trailer.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 04, 2024, 08:14:58 AMI would not want Holy WO on my trailer but agree it might work fine for bridge timbers if it is thick enough.
After we had been here a few years my bridge wore out and I bought 27 2"X8"X12' WO boards from a local mill. My wife drover her Ford half toon P/U over to get them. When she got in the truck she told the folks there "My truck drives funny now." They looked and said "Yeah, that happens when the front wheels are off the ground." They unloaded half and she made 2 slow trips down the mountain with them.
It won't matter on my trailer as it is always full and no one can see the holiness. smiley_smug01 :sunny: :thumbsup: ffcool ffcheesy ffwave ffsmiley :snowball: :snowball: :snowball:
Amen! :sunny:
Well, I went out and milled today. When I started the tractor I realized I wasn't gonna be milling a lot. I had a bad hose on the loader and couldn't use it. So, I milled the cedar log that has been on the mill for several months. Then I milled a little one that was closeby and able to be manhandled. I did that without using my left arm too much. It was a customer log that has been here for several months. It was supposed to walnut and turned out to be rotten red oak. I called the customer to tell him his "walnuts" were actually rotten red oak and not worth milling. But it felt good to get back at it. I'm sure dad was smiling when I realized the log mis-identity. Then I went to Napa and got a new hose for next time.
Glad to read that! ffsmiley
I milled for a bit and the stupid predator blew the oil cooler hose and spewed oil all over the rest of the little Ash log I was trying to mill...For the record I don't like this motor..
My customer picked up his 8 foot Pine 12x12 live edge mantel yesterday. I mentioned about putting it in a kiln before sanding. In his broken English, he stated he is gonna age it outside and also do some kind of physical aging.
Super repeat customer is adding a roof over his barndominium garage door opening. Twenty foot full size 2x10s for rafters and 20 foot full size 2x8s for purlins.
I'm tired of cutting 20 footers, but I need some full size 2x12s. So whatever day next week that it doesn't rain, you will know what I am doing.
Nice Tim. I am hopeful that our rain will be gone by Friday so I can saw.
With the rain plus my deck/porch project, I have not sawed since February 28th. :uhoh:
Lynn,
Do you want me to ship you some SYP sawdust so you won't have too many sawing withdrawal pains?
I also finished redecking the trailer.
(about:invalid)
Those dark boards look purple from here. ffcheesy
Good job.
Them'er racin' stripes
Quote from: Magicman on April 06, 2024, 07:30:23 PMWith the rain plus my deck/porch project, I have not sawed since February 28th.
MM, Your a "little" older than I am. Do your projects seem to take twice as long as you anticipate? Mine never seem to run on schedule.
Absolutely, it's not necessarily what I can do, but rather what I want to do. I am an early starter on almost everything, but 4PM starts to look good. I very seldom set deadlines anymore.
When a customer asks "when?", I generally say "lets work through it and the job will tell us when". They understand before we finish. If you try to push sawing a log, it will often push back.
Quote from: Magicman on April 07, 2024, 07:45:21 AMIf you try to push sawing a log, it will often push back.
Very good advice! True for more than logs!
Finally got a few logs on the mill. My "customer" who has an axe throwing venue asked for another 30 boards. 2 x 10 x 48 inches in cottonwood. 8 bucks each.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8164.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353350)
hit this. it was rainy and getting dark and it barely made a sound and made this happen. artsy!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8165.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353351)
still got some good boards. had some rot in the wood. I have a fresh cut log you saw the other day. looked good on day one but has revealed ring shake so sawed an older log I had. it (the one with ringshake)was a limb that fell on a house.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8108.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353245)
got 19 boards, and some stock to make into skid bottoms.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8161.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353353)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8163.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353352)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8162.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353354)
some will go to firepit wood!
Doc, are you cutting the 48 in the cant while on the mill? I see the vertical chainsaw kerf.
It didn't take but a couple of times of cutting green poplar 2x10x12, stacking them and later cutting the 48" pieces to decide I needed a better way.
OK SawyerTed, I'll bite. What better way did you find? My neighbor wants to know....... ffwave
Well, I knew there were some defects in the log, and the thought was cut the log at 12 foot 4 inches. and have the ability to cut around and in-between the defects that reveal themself. they are heavy and too big for the chop saw I leave out by the mill. so, I would remove the cant in mass after cutting. make marks on the top board, and keeping them lined up, cut through all the boards. of course, the bottom two were art projects... abstract art projects. ffcheesy
I do this with my thin stock for coasters and use a skill saw to cut about 5 thicknesses at a time to get 2-foot lengths. Might be from a 10-foot log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_8075.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353030)
you can see about every 5 boards, some from a different part of the log.
When cutting short length boards out of longer logs, I cut the part way through the cant vertically at the lengths I need. Then I saw boards.
For example to produce 2x10x48 (like Doc was making), I cut a cant 10" wide and 16" tall, 12'-6" long. Using a speed square to guide the skillsaw I cut partway through the cant at 0" (to square the end), 48", 96" and 144". Then I saw with the mill in 2" increments - three 2x10x48 come off each pass. No need to handle the 12' material and 24 2x10x48 come off the mill. Setting the skillsaw to cut through the top layer and score the second layer allows eliminating the tape measure and speed square on subsequent layers,
The photo below is how I make stickers in a similar way. I stack boards or flitches like for edging. Cut vertically with a chainsaw or skill saw at my sticker length but not all the way through. Then saw with the sawmill. A batch of stickers cut to length come off with each repetition.
Thanks! The poplar I did was cut 8'4" to get out of the woods relatively easy with the grapple. Milled the boards 2x10x8'4", loaded on forks and transport to RAS. Squared end, then stop block to cut 48". Handling 8'4" wasn't bad but I can see the advantage to 12' log. My customer was pleased with the nice square ends and Anchorseal on the target boards. I expect I'll hear from him again soon.
that makes sense and kinda the reverse of what I am doing.
Quote from: Andries on April 02, 2024, 02:46:15 PMLike Howard, scanning YT for sawmill info and ideas is much better than turning into a mental vegetable by watching Netflix.
Well, ok. . . maybe a little less of a vegetable.
Do you guys find that there seems to be three broad categories of this content?
- The "Entry Level" footage that manufacturers publish, so that the new folks can get an easy start and brag about their stack of lumber to the family. It's got that justify the purchase tone.
- The "Click Bait" content that has one purpose only. To get you to give a thumbs up, comment and subscribe. If it takes nubile cleavage and spandex to do it, well, then that's what they'll do. Entertainment, yes. Informative, nope not for this wood butcher. They're in it for the money, honey.
The gals at Lumber Capital operate at the higher end of this grouping, but the yoga poses and dance moves pretty much lock em into the eye-candy category.
- My personal opinion: the very best "Masters Level" YouTube series, for stay-at-home millers, are put up by our very own @YellowHammer. The David Letterman of band sawmill YouTubers. Young Robert has found his on-screen voice, which is detailed and logical while being humorous at his own expense. "Well, I probably solved your insomnia problem with this video." Another personal preference; @PAmizerman has really good workflow videos that show how a single person can process lumber without breaking their back. Funny, I've never heard him say a single word on a video, he's similar to Jimmy DiResta that way.
There's a bunch of FF members that produce great video content. All of them contribute to the collection of skills and knowledge required to remove the sawdust from between high quality lumber.
The ones that appeal to each of us probably relate to where we are - looking to make ourselves better sawyers.
I'm not much of a talker. I think there is one video I talked in🤣
My son wanted to go out to dinner with friends last night. I said, do you have money for dinner? He said no. I gave him $40 and told him he could earn it today helping me mill some cedar. That worked out well for both of us.
well at 5 buck and hour, at least you got a full day's work out of him. just tell him what you made at his age. :snowball: ffcheesy
Man I long for days like that!
We only worked for 2 hours. I'd say did pretty well.
Sawing poplar 2x6x14. Working by myself and made 18 in about an hour!
Shew buddy! I gotta slow down!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/image~36.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353360)
My dad suggesting I go cut a pickup load of firewood in the morning is what probably started me down this road. You know that sawdust thing ....(There was no pay involved, just payback from not being home on time the night before and causing him heartburn.)
I will have to do this post in several stages because I ain't smart enough to get this picture gallery thing sorted so bear with me.
I loaded up and hooked up yesterday to go do a mobile job for a many times repeat customer. My wife and I looked at the logs last week and I showed him where I'd like them staged and what size I felt were worth sawing. He did put me a couple of sticker logs in the front to get me started. All the logs are white pine and either 8' or 10' long and all are being sawed into 1" sheeting. I am doing the stacking and stickering and adjusted my rate accordingly. I had hopes to get some teenagers to help last week during Spring Break but the weather was lousy or at least predicted to me. Several were good days and it annoyed me I lost out on them.
I left in drizzling rain. The site is 16 miles away. It is well laid out but I only had 2 pallets so I placed them for 10' stacks 40" wide. I sawed one of the sticker logs into 4X4's and cut them 4' long as his forks are 4'.
I should have moved the mill a foot forward to center it better but it was close enough. I did move one big 10' log with a lot of sweep but when I hooked my Magic Hook to it and the side support and with both rollers up, the sweep in the log and my bad luck when I lowered the arms to move the log to the rear, I dumped it off the side. I rolled it out of the way and figured I'd drag it out with my truck, get the customer to move it or turn the mill around when I was done to reach it but a friend of the customer came over to borrow his Bobcat with a FEL and a thumb and I asked him and he set it back on the mill for me. (All the pictures this post will accept so on to the next one.
Here are my pallets set out near the rear of the mill so they are close since I have to move the boards. I set the 8' stack about 15" away for easy access between the two. Since I'm stacking I make sure all the stacks are the same width and stage my boards at the end of the mill till I have the right mix for 40" for 10' boards and 48" for the 8' boards. At least the tally is easy and accurate.
This is the log stack at the end of the day. I think I did nearly half and looks like there are 21 logs left to saw.
Third chapter
I called the customer for more pallets and he brought me some 8' dunnage. I will lay them out in the morning and use the short left over 4X4s I cut for the 8' stack to start a second stack of 10 lumber at the end of the mill. The tall stack below is the 10' boards and it is getting uncomfortably tall to stack on so I will finish i toff soon. The customer also brought me some really nice 3' metal roofing so at the end of the day I covered the stacks and put some slab wood on to keep it from blowing off.
I left a 10' log on the mill to help deter thieves. Tomorrow is supposed to be a nicer day than today which was very cloudy (I missed the Eclipse entirely). Total sawed, stacked , stickered, lay out, covered, etc was 1108. I don't know if I can finish tomorrow or not. I have the WM Service loop team coming Friday so I have to have to mill back home by then.
Nice looking lumber Howard, thanks for the pictures.
Is white pine common in WV or is it mostly the southern pines?
White pine is our native pine here. I don't think SYP grows naturally but I have sawed a little that was planted. Most of my boards were 1X10s with a few cants that made 1X12a. The smaller boards are from the side lumber.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 08, 2024, 10:55:15 PMI have the WM Service loop team coming Friday so I have to have to mill back home by then.
I always had the service loop done at a customer's location on a sawing job somewhere.
I had a couple of walnut logs to slab this morning. Beautiful day but the wind was gusty, switching, and generally out of the wrong direction to keep sawdust out of my eyes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4303.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353375)
I have goggles and a face shield that I sometimes wear in these conditions but most generally I just don't saw. I wanted to get this little job complete so I used a different strategy to keep out of the sawdust.
Enter my custom made cruise control or feed lock. (Definitely not TK approved.)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4304.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353373)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4306.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353376)
Lock the feed down and step back out of the sawdust.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4292.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353374)
A little job completed in short order without dust in my eyes! ffcool ffcool
I'm getting blasted by locust dust. I'm wearing a mask, so I'm not breathing it, but it does get under my safety glasses, which is not much fun.
Freshly cut White Oak did that to me. It kept getting past my safety glasses.
Okay the saga continues. I returned to my site today, set up 4' X 10' base for more boards.
I sawed till about 4:00 pm and we had a slow steady drizzling rain and I hate sawing in wet sawdust and mud and such so I packed it in with one log on the mill and 7 more on the hillside. Weather permitting I'll finish them in the morning.
My first stack of 10' boards is 40" tall and 24 rows and getting uncomfortable to reach so I put the roofing on it and am done with it. My 8' stack is 4' wide and 22 rows so far and not much if any more 8' to do.
My new stack is 4' wide X 10' and 9 rows high so far. I think I can stack all the remaining 10' lumber on it.
I figure it was 13 logs and 750 bf of all 4/4 white pine today.
Here is the last of the logs plus there is one 10' log on the mill for security and to be ready tomorrow.
Lynn,
I know the service team will go to the customer site but I prefer to have them come to my home and I have my mill washed and ready for them when they get here.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 09, 2024, 05:54:01 PMI prefer to have them come to my home
OK, you used the words "have to" sorta inferring, to me, that it was a requirement.
I wish that the service loop was still available to me.
Sorry for the mix up. WM is very accommodating and has always told me they'd go to where the mill was but I prefer them come here.
Larry your fab skills are light years ahead of mine, I would have made use of the hole in the factory plate, a bungee cord, and some duct tape to keep the bungee from rolling down the handle. ffcheesy
Small Cherry Burl "Log" (it sure wouldn't roll.....)
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OCH that is pretty. Now what are you going to do with it?
Thanks Doc! I'm probably going to sell them....
I milled them at 4/4, so they may sell as knife handles/ pistol grips. I'll probably give a couple to my NDN, who produces some stunning epoxy/ live edge stuff, but is also very generous.....
Okay, the final chapter. I went over a little after 8:00 am and unpacked, uncovered my lumber stack and resumed sawing and finished and was pulling out at 1:30pm. The 8 additional logs turned out 667 bf so a total of 2435 bf for the job. About 2 days sawing although I took 3 because of the weather.
I learned or remembered several new things this trip.
1. You need to hug your helper if you have one!
2. If you are sawing and stacking by yourself a handy tip is to slide the lumber to the end of the mill to get it out of the way till you finish sawing the cant then go stack it. I'd slide several boards off the cant and give them a little sideways shove at the end so the boards are resting/leaning on the end of the mill. That way I was able to pick and match the boards to make every row the same width for easier tally
3. When cutting stickers make them 2-3 inches longer than the width of your stack. That allows you to see the end of the sticker past the boards on the other side and makes it easier to keep your sickers lined up properly. (Some of you may have strong disagreements with this but it worked better for me.)
4. Use a short stick as a pivot stick when edging a stack of flitches. I often saw my flitches in 1" drops especially when I need to generate stickers. As I get a clean face on a flitch I remove it from the stack and flip it over. When both edges are free of bark and the board is a standard width (I normally cut all my lumber in 2" widths for ease of stacking and tally purposes) I remove the finished board and stack or set it aside. To remove the board or flitch from the middle of the stack I lift my end higher than the other flitches, take a 2' stick and stick it under the raised flitch and on top of the ones to be edged, bear down on my end till the opposite end of the board/flitch rises free of the others then I set it aside or flip it over. Placing the stick crossways as a pivot is a handy tool to free the flitch/board from the stack.
A Maple Burl "Log"..... (This one didn't roll, either)
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Wow, I am amazed nobody read my previous post and said "Hey, that's a great idea" or "Are you crazy? I ain't cutting stickers longer than my stacks of boards" or such.
True genius is so often overlooked. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
No comment does not indicate overlooked. I thought longer stickers were SOP. :thumbsup: ffcheesy
well, I use skids for wide or feet with groves for single log stacks. I do not like longer sticker as they interfere with my strapping being in line with the top and bottom cauls with the groove. as well, I have caught my leg on them walking past them in a group of stacks. As well if you are moving them and staking, they catch on stuff. I line up with the sticker below by looking at them. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy. I do have some manufactured sticker at 48 inches and my skids are only 42. I hate to shorten them although they will always fit my skids after shortened.
Lynn, what is SOP.
Howard, we all know you are crazy, and keeping like company here on the forum. ffsmiley
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 11, 2024, 08:10:03 AMWow, I am amazed nobody read my previous post and said "Hey, that's a great idea" or "Are you crazy? I ain't cutting stickers longer than my stacks of boards" or such.
True genius is so often overlooked. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Howard,
Please note that I made sure my pics all showed the stickers protruding from the pieces....
Some of us recognize true genius, even when it ain't me.....
Standard Operating Practice to trim the longer stickers after the lumber is stacked. :thumbsup:
Doc,
The problem with lining up the stickers with the one below is you can only see one end - the one facing you - and the other end may not be directly in line. If it sticks out on the other side you can see and line that end up too. I'm not talking leaving them sticking out a foot so so to get in the way, I'm only talking a couple of inches.
I use stacking skids too when I am sawing at home but there are none to be had at the mobile sites.
I guess everybody else has a helper picking up the other end of their flitches when edging so they don't need to use a short stick to make a pivot.
Also sliding the boards to rest on the end of the mil so you can finish sawing the cant only applies if you have to stack your own lumber. I may use that technique the next time I have a slow customer slowing me down.
OCH,
Yeah, I guess that is our lot in life for people like me and you not to be recognized for our talents when dealing with lesser men.
SOP here is longer stickers, trimmed to 1-2" longer than the stack is wide after the stack is made. Scraps get used sometimes for small stacks and stacks of live edge but most go in the firewood bin.
SOP on a portable job is cut stickers per customer specs. Sometimes they want something specific. That's one of my on site questions for customers, "How do you want stickers cut?" They often don't know so we talk about their plans for stacking and drying.
Genius has its limits...some of us are more limited than others. ffcheesy
longer is easier to line up, even after the fact could use a straight edge. I made a 90o square out of Masonite so I could bump my sticker in line and perpendicular to the stack.
long stickers is starting to sound like an accommodation. ffwave ffsmiley
I cut my stickers one inch longer to 49 inches. If the stickers snag you, your cutting too many corners. ffcheesy
Howard,
I leave air gaps between my boards on each level. This way, I can see the sticker and put one directly over the one below it.
Weather again. I was scheduled to saw tomorrow morning, but the customer texted that he had 5 trees down in his front yard plus the other storm cleanup.
We had gotten over 5" of rain this week before yesterday and last night. The ground is soaked so it does not take a huge amount of wind to tip trees over.
I know that it will all get done in due time, so I will have another day off. ffsmiley
Chance of thunderstorm and showers predicted tomorrow. I am still loaded for a mobile job this weekend for a couple of repeat customers at their camp down on the Greenbrier River. The weekend looks nice. I can use the money as I have to buy gas for a trip down south.
I do not charge for cutting stickers. I guess that would be another advantage to ho9urly rate sawing as I'd get paid to make them. In the last case I told the customer to leave me a smalls ticker log in front and he left a 7' log about 8" diameter and a 6' one about 12". I made stickers to get me started and sawed some 4X4's for dunnage for my 8' stack After that I just sawed my edgings in 1" drops and the ones with more than 4' of clean wood went int he sticker pile The barky ones went in the slab pile.
I tried lining up 10-12 stickers to saw to length then found it was easier to just grab 3-4, stand them on end. lay them on the stack and saw with my cordless 6.5" circle saw, repeat as long as I needed stickers then stack. My little battery powered saw worked real good on the small stacks but tended to get hung on the bigger stacks. I'd get enough stickers off each set of edging to stay a long or two ahead.
The WM service team will be here tomorrow to do a service. It is time for the 50 hour service anyway but I assume the service loop does everything I would be doing anyway. I'll put brushes in a spare hydraulic motor while they are here. I bought the brushes right after I replaced the motor and just never put them in. This way I know they will be done right.
Here I thought you were calling Howard a Simple Old Person.
BB,
I think your phone is ringing. You better go answer it. :veryangry: :veryangry: rayrock
Quote from: TimW on April 11, 2024, 11:30:20 AMHoward,
I leave air gaps between my boards on each level. This way, I can see the sticker and put one directly over the one below it.
Tim,
This brings up a good question. Are air gaps needed, useful or desirable when stacking lumber?
I am sure I read here on the forum somewhere when I first started sawing lumber that stacking the wood against the next board was fine for drying purposes as long as it was properly stickered with good air flow from the sides.
How many others leave gaps or do you stack the boards tight against each other?
I know it makes it easier to see the sticker below but it would make it harder for me to tally at the end of the job as I just measure the width of the rows. on my last job since I was doing the stacking every row except the last one was exactly the same as the one below and made the tally process dirt simple and accurate.
I would say tight is fine with good air flow. the question is what good air flow is. airdrying outside is questionable as you have no control over or consistent airflow. drying shed with fans better. kiln great. if you stack your boards that are all the same width with same gap, you can subtract the overall gap amount from your side width. On a still day with no air movement, the top wood will dry faster on the top. the bottoms will be impacted by humid air from below, and overall, I expect the lower levels to dry slower. the air gap might help even that out.
In practice, boards are stacked edge to edge as often as not for air drying.
Customers do and don't even though I suggest they do leave space. Spaces get lost sometimes when stacks get moved with a fork machine.
USDA/Forest Service guidance is to leave a space. Kiln drying benefits from the space.
I would agree with Ted on this. I leave a space between boards as well.
If there is no space between, the air can only travel horizontally, with space there is potential for some vertical flow as well as the 4th face of the lumber to get exposure to air.
The disadvantage is without enough weight from above, it's less apt to help prevent crook as boards dry.
I stack each layer with the outside edge boards aligned straight to the outside board below, then fill in as best you can with what fits between the outside edge boards. Stack then looks like teakwood's.
ffcool
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 12, 2024, 09:14:19 AMQuote from: TimW on April 11, 2024, 11:30:20 AMHoward,
I leave air gaps between my boards on each level. This way, I can see the sticker and put one directly over the one below it.
Tim,
This brings up a good question. Are air gaps needed, useful or desirable when stacking lumber?
I am sure I read here on the forum somewhere when I first started sawing lumber that stacking the wood against the next board was fine for drying purposes as long as it was properly stickered with good air flow from the sides.
How many others leave gaps or do you stack the boards tight against each other?
I know it makes it easier to see the sticker below but it would make it harder for me to tally at the end of the job as I just measure the width of the rows. on my last job since I was doing the stacking every row except the last one was exactly the same as the one below and made the tally process dirt simple and accurate.
I just thought, since airflow is wanted under and over the boards, one would want airflow vertically thru the stack.
Well, I am down for a few days. WM service team came by and repaired or replaced several items but a linkage in the blade tensioner broke and not a part on the truck so I'm down till it gets here and I replace it. Part was less than $14 so not a big cost. Went to replace the bearings in the idler wheel and found too much wear inside so had to get a new wheel also not on the truck. That one was about $188. Another simple replacement and apparently I have been over tensioning the blade which caused such wear. They replaced the rollers on the rails where getting grooved and my alternator belt was shredded. I had a spare and need to order another replacement. I was well pleased with their service under the circumstances and the training is always a valuable as the repairs and service made. They showed me how to replace the brushes in my hydraulic motor so I have spare ready to use not. Not hard but not what I was expecting - my ignorance not design or such.
CORRECTION: It was not the blade tensioner it was on the clutch assembly. I looked high and low in my manual last night to make sure there was not a second more difficult part to replace that was needed and I could not find the part. This morning I thought "Clutch" equals Engine and there it was and just the one part. I don't know why it chose to break when Logan pulled down on the arm. It is not a part you can abuse and just luck of the draw it broke for him. I am sure it would have broken in my hands if I'd have been the next one to pull down/engage the arm. I still bet it made him feel bad but honestly I see no way it was abuse just normal wear and tear.
The original idle side bearings on my 97 LT40 were not up to the job. I went through a few sets of those, until mine also walliwed out the bores. Actually, one set wallowed the bores, and I put a set in with a Loctite product that is made for loose bearings and sleeves. Since they were basically glued in, when those bearings failed, I ordered the new, updated wheel which has a much beefier bearing.
My understanding is that space between the boards in a pack is problematic when kiln drying.
When you have no space air is forced into the stack on the high pressure side and exits the same course on the low pressure side.
When you have vertical gaps it forms chimneys so hot air entering a course can rise as it goes through resulting in uneven drying.
Lurker,
But this lumber was stacked for air drying.
Should there be a difference in stacking for AD vs KD?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47685/415_pine.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353419)
Spruce and pine.
The snow finally melted here and had warm sunny weather last couple days, so I got my mill fired up and made some sawdust. ffcool
Began working my way through my winter logging pile, starting with the spruce and white pine. The spruce was mostly standing dead trees that I just wanted to salvage what I could from them, mostly 6x6 and a few 2x's. The white pine were all healthy trees and made some nice 8', 10', and 12' 2x's. I also wanted to get the pine cut before the bark boring bugs start making tunnels.
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Got about half of the closer pile cut, still have a few to go. Other logs piled up are an assortment of black cherry, black ash, and good old stinky pulp poplar. ffsmiley
It has been excellent sawing, and softwood lumber drying weather, the last few days👍👍
Resonator,
Nice looking stack of lumber. Glad Y'all are thawing out up there. I have had the 5 foot fan running behind the sawmill, the last 3 days, down here.
Thanks, I gotta drive down to Georgia in a couple days and may have to find me a sombrero to keep the sun off my head. :sunny: fred_head ffsmiley
It would seem to me that tightly stacked green fresh cut lumber will develop air gaps quicky as it dries anyway. My stacks are never that tight. FWIW.
Nebraska is now my new hero! ffcool
This is a picture of my recently laid kiln dried pressure treated 2X6 deck. I laid it tight with absolutely no gap.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5540.JPG)
Since March 21st, the boards now have 1/8" to 1/4" spacing.
I do it for spacing to the edge. if I have 10 inchwide boards, and 42-inch pallets, even spacing across the stack. Howard, Nebraska the state or the man? ffsmiley
Our main man Nebraska, of course!
Lynn,
They design that lumber that way so it doesn't hold water, freeze in the winter and cause slip hazards. :sunny:
Freeze?? :shocked2: This Mississippi made lumber ain't gonna freeze here. ffcheesy
I was very pleased with the lumber and am now very pleased with the spacing.
6x8 Beams 16, 12, and 6
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Foot.
20 foot full size 2
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x10s, 2x8s, and 18 foot 2x6s.
............and 12 foot 2x6s from size boards for sawmill shed girts.
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Tim you must have some nice timber there, anything around here over 16' and it will have sweep or some sort of massive defect, even 18' can be a challenge, but 20' on a regular basis - no way.
Thanks.
The 18 foot 2x6s I cut today was ornery. I cut for bow as the log had horns at each end. What I didn't see, was some hard pine knots inside. The ends tried to crook. I made 2 huge mental errors that negated getting any full size 2x10s for me.
Glad that log is gone. The 20 footers were well behaved and a pleasure (as 20 footers go) to cut. Got 4 more logs just like them on the log deck. The 20 footers were out of over 30 inch logs.
Testing photo gallery
No joy. I was able to add a new album which did not work last time. I added a photo to the album but can't see how to get it from the album to this thread. Can't find album under Drag and drop. Go straight to Gallery, click on the picture and double click and try control C for copy but that is not the ticket. smiley_thumbsdown
My stacks are just lucky they happened, I so much need to build with the wood I have sawn because I am running out of space to stack it.
Hero not so much, I more resemble a master BORP producer, (designer firewood name from Crossroads) ffsmiley
I had dreams of sawing a little chunk of Red Cedar this evening but am sleep deprived from the results of calving season the night before on call. I have definitely proven to myself that not stickering a stack of wet lumber promptly will lead to funky colored mold firmly holding the boards together requiring a pry bar to pull apart.
WV
Just click on your pic in the gallery and scroll down under to highlight the next to the bottom url, click it and it should highlight. Copy that and paste it in your post. Looks like this for me.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/WVSawmiller.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353480)
Result:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3981.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353478)
Cut some 2 nd growth Wester Red Cedar tonight after dinner. Got 4 2x12 s 2 2x10s
2 2x8s and some side lumber. Will be used for my Daughters rebuild of her sun deck.
BT,
Thanks. I'll try that when I get to the hotel in Ga tonight if I get the chance.
I need Y'alls input on this Texas sized ERC, please. I was going to set this cedar butt on the sawmill and cut 3 inch cookies for small tables and such. I already have 2 potential buyers. The big end is 39.5 inches by 34 inches. It seems like it will fit on my LT40HD Wide, but any miscalculation and the need to be bibbied.
Should I set it on the mill, and bibby anything past the blade guides. I really don't wanna bibby anymore as I think that would lower the sale price. I already trimmed back two huge forks. Comments?
Do Y'all think 3 inch cookies of this will sale or a waste of time and to just chainsaw it into a cant and mill it that way. It is only 45 inches long
The 2 inch wide duct tape in the photo below is 39.5 inches and will parallel the sawmill frame.
Here is the 18 foot log as I found it.
Since we are just barnstorming and looking for off of the wall ideas that might work, plus this is probably a one time project, what about removing one or both of your blade guide rollers to make room for the blade to pass. You could try it on something junky to see what happens. I guess that the worse thing that could happen is throwing a blade off and ruining it.
This being ERC and proceeding slowly, I would be interested in seeing what would happen, especially since it's you taking the chance and not me. ffcheesy
The rollers give me more room than the roller mounts. Each mount has about a 1/2" rounded hump pointing inboard.....and I think that is one big chunk of metal. Not sure how much needs to removed to get the roller mount off of the mill The guide arm cover/shroud could get mangled if I tried that. But THANKS. I will look at this again tomorrow on the mill.
Maybe I can cut those humps off.
I do follow what you are saying and the movable arm would have the greatest possibility to gain some width.
This could be exciting !! ffcool
Careful Lynn. I can easily load that ERC chunk in my pickup and drive to Mississippi. :uhoh:
Oh wait............you don't have a W-I-D-E. smiley_smug01
If all goes to plan, I cut 14 three inch cookies and sell them as small table tops $50 to $100 each. But I am counting my chickens before they hatch.
So, Yes it has the potential to be exciting. ffcool
I will carefully move it tomorrow with slings on the forks. I would use the grapple, but don't want to pierce past the bark.
You know very well that doubting my humor is very serious indeed !!! :wacky:
oz_smiley oz_smiley oz_smiley
Could you cut the cookies with a chain saw? Just plan them to be a tad thicker for the lack of accuracy?
I could do that, but still no way to make it look good enough to sell as table tops. I could do that to the smaller end and put it on the mill, but the clamp only opens approx. 29.5 inches and would just have the weight holding it will sawing.
I'm just gonna sling it securely and gingerly set it on the mill and go from there. As MM said.........it will be exciting.
Yes but that would get you the rough in work done, from there a router sled would clean it up once dry.
Thanks SS. ffwave I understand, but you're a little far to borrow a router sled. smiley_thumbsdown
Router sleds are pretty easy to make. (as long as you have a router). Cookies from that fluted ERC would make a pretty, impressive table. Especially with some of LogRite's legs.
If you did cut it with a chainsaw then put it on the mill. With a hardwood backstop. You could see better. Then turn it to to fit better. Not sure I don't make or cut cookies.
Peter,
Think round table tops 3 inches thick 39x34 inches in size. Not really a cookie. I was thinking about an angle iron stop on the fixed mill stops, but not sure it that would help or hurt until I just try it.
Quote from: beenthere on April 19, 2024, 01:52:57 AMRouter sleds are pretty easy to make. (as long as you have a router). Cookies from that fluted ERC would make a pretty, impressive table. Especially with some of LogRite's legs.
I had a router years ago, but lost it in the divorce. Looking at router sleds, now, online.
I always can use more tools. :sunny: What I need is more time. move_it smiley_thumbsup Seems the older I get, the more I want to sleep. zzzz_smiley
I chickened out and cut the butt chunk into 2 halves. I cut 6 three inch cookies. The pallet they are stacked on is 40x48 inches.
The cookie on the top of the stack is 3.5 inches thick.
deleted
Cut some Douglas Fir. Use it for re decking at Flat deck.
8 2x-12s on the pick up.
Looks good TimW :thumbsup:
Man, I wish I had Fir around here. Have an order for 8"x16"x18' and 16' All I have that big is W Pine. Hemlock no way.
Thanks Peter!
Quote from: Dan R on April 20, 2024, 12:39:44 AMCut some Douglas Fir. Use it for re decking at Flat deck.
8 2x-12s on the pick up.
Is this deck a trailer deck or a house deck? What is the wood of choice up there for trailer decking?
Down here it is White Oak.
I got the new quick connector for the fuel tank for my mill. Once I got the fuel flowing I think this has fixed it. I proceeded to slice a small cherry 5/4 live edge. Obviously the squirrel placed a walnut in the crotch of a branch and the cherry grew around it, and I sliced right through the middle of the walnut. So I have a book matched set with each half of the walnut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/processed-35F5F07F-A8F3-423B-B70C-C670E13FD306.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353505)
Tim
Fir is probably used the most for trailer decking. The PT hemlock is garbage. It is used for sun decks because Red Cedar is very expensive.
Peter that fir was salvaged from a setting and was left behind after logging.
Today's cutting Red Cedar for fencing at a project of my Sons. It is now inside drying beside my Dads old work truck. Thought I'd show it off in a picture. He restored it with my Son in 1997. He was very proud of it. We take good care of it now in it's retirement
Dan
Brad bb that is a interesting piece of wood.I'd love to run into something like that.
Dan R,
I am guessing 1966 C-10.
It was such a gorgeous day, I couldn't resist doing something outside. So I put the Cedar Butt Chunk on the mill on 3 pieces of C channel so I could slide it over. I figured out to wedge blocks of wood between the Chunk and the C channel. I think this will work cutting soft ERC.
I didn't want any excitement today, so I will saw it tomorrow, after putting on a fresh blade.
Tim
65 C 20
I'm doing a little building project for a fellow and need some rot resistant 4x4s and I had one approx. 25" white oak log 6 1/2' long that fit the bill.Got some pretty nice boards out of it but was a little hard to turn. I'm going to have to quit putting such big logs on the mill.My back is not what it used to be.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/A10A7DF1-AE34-425D-8983-D4947BC8FB40.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353560)
Them there are purty.
I cut six more 3 inch ERC cookies today. Here is the biggest.
Outstanding. Keep that up and you will be known as da Cookie Man !! ffsmiley
I might put a huge clock on it. ffcool Now if I can only find one in the shape of Texas. :sunny:
Not an inserted clock like this.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=12504;type=preview)
But one with numbers on the cedar and the mechanism inside with a hole for the movement and arms. That would be awesome.
da Cookie Man? I am a friend of da Cookie Monster!
Pretty well have gotten all the logs I had scattered around my place sawn up and stacked except this walnut. I saved it for last and need to decide how to cut it.May cut crotch off and saw it separately.Log is 25" in forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353561](https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/284B7FDC-98D6-4465-A298-157E77C1AA1E.jpeg)[/url]
I have a chance to bid on a Cypress log about 15 foot long and about 34 inches in diameter.
What's a good bid price to offer? If I get it, what should I cut it into?
Quote from: TimW on April 25, 2024, 03:07:30 PMI have a chance to bid on a Cypress log about 15 foot long and about 34 inches in diameter.
What's a good bid price to offer? If I get it, what should I cut it into?
Think you will need the answer to the "cut it into" question first.
Price would be up to your wallet and feeling good about it. But a $10 bid sounds good to me. ffcool
Tim,
Is it delivered or do you have to pick up the cypress log? Do you have any customers wanting cypress?
If not I would bid low and be happy if I got it but not worry if I didn't.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 25, 2024, 09:51:39 PMTim,
Is it delivered or do you have to pick up the cypress log? Do you have any customers wanting cypress?
If not I would bid low and be happy if I got it but not worry if I didn't.
Howard,
I have to go get it. The folks cutting it down or digging it up would load it. No customers, but I am sure someone in H town would want something.
Tim,
Looks like about 800 bf estimate for yield. I'd offer him $100 if I had to pick it up. If he agrees and you sell it you've done good if you can't sell it you haven't lost much. If he says no you haven't lost anything.
Thanks Howard! I will do that.
Is it a yard tree, near a house?
More lovely Maple Burl....
IMG_4541.jpg
IMG_4544.jpg
IMG_4548.jpg
IMG_4549.jpg
Sawed up some nice black walnut yesterday evening.
Quote from: oldgraysawyer on March 16, 2024, 06:14:49 PMQuote from: Magicman on March 14, 2024, 08:55:57 PMHow about documenting the Mikron install with pictures and giving us a report.
I think it's stuck in customs but it's only been there a couple of days. Don't know how long it will take but the last time I ordered from out of the country it took about a week for customs to clear it but I would be happy to document the install on my 2003 Timberking B20. I did tell them it's for the B20 and the kit is supposed to be customized for it. I would like to think it will make my investment worth it. I don't have any business plans for my mill but just the few projects I have planned will save enough money to at least break even and from there it's all gravy.
Did you ever get this installed? Would like to here more!
Quote from: Peter Drouin on April 26, 2024, 05:05:43 AMIs it a yard tree, near a house?
Peter, I forgot to ask that, but I suspect it is as it is in Old Town Spring, which is the refurbished downtown of Spring, Texas.
I suppose to get photos today. It just died.
Probably Full of iron. Get a good metal detector, not a wand type. one that will go 12" + into the log. Or buy a bunch of blades. ffcheesy If it was me I would pass on it. I get a lot of people who want to give me logs. Free 1 or 2 at a time. I just say thanks but no thanks. smiley_thumbsdown I get my logs from the forest from loggers by the truckload, Have one coming tomorrow. About 5000 bf.
Thanks Peter. I think I will pass on it.
I texted him asking how much and that was a day ago. No photos either.
Weekend work - This is more like a: Whatcha need to get sawing post... running-doggy
Took out 2 loads of 14' red and chestnut oak as well as hickory that we felled. We'll saw them into 2x8's for rafters and joists for my barn build. The hickory will be a PITA to nail (gotta pre-drill) I know...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52943/20240427_104102.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353612)
Bucked, skidded and hauled 3 loads of 10' and 12' - up to 36" White Pine a neighbor had felled. We have another 3 heaping loads to go. They'll be sawed into cants for timber frame use, jacket wood into 1" boards. Felled in the Fall, bark slipping easily - surprisingly the pine weevils haven't gotten deeper than the cambium. Peeled all the bark and stacked on bunks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52943/20240427_170814.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353611)
Speaking recently about "park-like" stands, maybe this woods qualifies for such.
@livemusic may like this and want to know how it happened. :wink_2: :wink_2:
Looks nice and a great place to see and walk through.
Quote from: beenthere on April 29, 2024, 12:50:02 PMSpeaking recently about "park-like" stands, maybe this woods qualifies for such. @livemusic may like this and want to know how it happened. :wink_2: :wink_2:
Looks nice and a great place to see and walk through.
I agree. It looks tranquil there.
I got out and started repairs on my mill today. I got the broken clutch piece installed although I probably dud not use the proper technique. I had to remove the pulley on the other side to move the shaft enough to get the new piece to fit on the shaft. I got it all back together and adjusted the drive belt tension to approximate specification tension. It still seems very stiff when I pull it to tension. It is a brand new belt plus the new parts and I hope it loosens up when I test run it. I put the idler pulley assembly on but did not adjust to band rollers and such yet but will tomorrow. I also need to replace that little wooden block that helps dampen the blade vibration.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4342.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353616)
First and longest of about 40 walnut logs I'll start slabbing in the morning. All about the same diameter, 14 - 16" dbh. Most will be for charcuterie stock and a few will go for live edge mantels.
At the project several of us were talking during the quarter sawing demo about the best way to get the halves and quarters off the mill when first breaking down the log. I remarked that I put bearings on my loader arms.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4339.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353617)
The bearings were actually installed to make edging faster on the mill but have helped with quarter sawing and are outstanding when slabbing. When the slabs hit those bearings they take off like a jet and land near perfect in the waiting loader fork arms. Lots faster than dragging back or any other method to get them off the mill.
I am sawing my first "official" Pine Beetle killed job. There are others in the schedule book but they are not ready and this one was. Well almost because the customer still has 5 more trees to fall and skid.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5600.JPG)
There are about 30 ranging from about 15" to 32" top ends. About a dozen 8 footers and the rest are 16'. The 8' logs will be 2X4's & 4X4's. The good 16' logs will all be 2X6's. The knotty/limby ones will all be 4X4's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5609~0.JPG)
I set the sawmill up on the 8' logs first and will reposition on the first 16' whack then this is done, and afterwards move on the the last 16' whack.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5610~0.JPG)
Speaking of whacks, I whacked 4 nails deeply inside of the largest log that I sawed today.
This is actually a good job and only 2 miles from home. The forecast is for 90° tomorrow. :sunny:
Didn't get any pictures mostly because I don't want to remember today but I knocked out a pair of 8x10x33', yes 33', White Oak Beams for a historic bridge reconstruction job today. I have a 6' extension for my 70, but it's still on the shipping pallet that WM bolted it to when they shipped it to me - sure did a lot of good for me today. Fortunately the Lull makes for a fine bed extension replacement and I actually managed to keep the beams to true dimension as a result.
A very ugly log with some very nice-looking boards underneath:
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I bought some pine logs and picked up some live oak on Monday. We sawed some live oak for a friend. He's going to use it to build a really heavy mineral block feeder for his cattle. These boards range in width from 6"-14", with most being 8" and 10".
Note to self: Setting blades at .030-.032 seems to cut live oak faster and flatter than blades with less set. This is the first live oak we've sawn since sharpening and setting our own blades. I generally dread sawing it, even though it is beautiful wood. Yesterday's logs were not too bad. The full 2" flitches we ran through the edger made the Kohler grunt a little but also produced good results.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_8176.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353625)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_8172.jpeg)
My 8:00 O'Clock tailgunners arrived at 9:30 so my day went just dandy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5616.JPG)
The tractor needed jumping off 3 times before they finally decided to bring the charger out to give it a boost. Buncha 4X4's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5615.JPG)
I finished the short logs and moved the sawmill up to the 16' logs, but something happened to my picture. My phone decided to edit it somehow and the sawmill portion with the first 16' log is gone. Notice on top there is one of about 8 "logs" that will need nubbin before they will all be sawn into 4X4's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_5614~0.JPG)
Another view of the second setup. I got the first two logs sawn into 2X6's before my help quit for the day.
I have two more good logs to saw tomorrow morning before the nubbin begins.
My lumber grader Hank, got mad when I called this slab a dog leg for some reason.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4352.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353635)
He gave it the "Pee" grade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4364.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353636)
What does he know?
2x live oak for a mineral feeder? What is your neighbor running for cattle? Bodacious clones?
Larry: speaking of bodacious clones, is your lumber grader also known as Sampson, log dog extraordinaire?
Its good to see hime on the job, keeping you (maybe not your logs) on the straight and narrow.
Andries,
I think you mean Larry's log dog Hank.
My log dog is Sampson. Now if I could just wake him up and get him off the couch to go to work. ffcheesy
Howard, it is sad he may be on your lap on the couch. You might not get anything done either.! ffcheesy :snowball: running-doggy
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4347.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353640)
Working hard on the green chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4368.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353641)
On breaks from grading lumber Hank can be found guarding our property from dangerous beasts. Who knows that thing could have rabies.
Looking at his coat is Hank a Chesapeake?
Bird Flu...
Finally got some of that cedar on the mill:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/74868/CedarSlab.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353645)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/74868/EatYourHeartOut.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353644)
Got her cut down to square 1.5" sticks. Tomato stakes are coming!
My today was a re-run of yesterday. The eight o'clock tailgunners arrived at 9:35, and then had to move yesterday's lumber and sticker it.
Meanwhile back on the sawmill, first one and then two, each costing $45.
I finished the 2X8's from the first log and now have an 18' almost sawed into 2X6's when the rain came. I shut er down and we will resume Monday morning.
I previously mentioned that this job is only two miles from home, so I really don't care.
Starting my 20 ft Tulip Poplar logs for 4 x 10 rafters. This log yielded three rafters and some jacket boards. As I expected the pith centered rafter is flat. The two off center have about 1/2 inch curl away from the center. They will be stacked with curl down then a big log set on top for weight. 26 more to go.
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We just sent out a good-sized pack of 1x6 and 1x8's and also sawed a 12"x18" live oak for a fellow. The fellows who bought the pine drove from a couple of hours away and showed up with a box trailer with a ramp. John nor I wanted to handle these boards again. With the telehandler and a little creativity, we were able to load the whole pack in one shot.f
The last little (12" small end) pine log we sawed was loaded with pitch. Logs like this and the live oak have us considering installing/making a lubemizer type arrangement. I think we have just about enough spare parts, minus a pump, to build one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_8198.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353682)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_8201.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353683)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_8200.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353686)
The band was slipping a bit on the new B56 belts, even when running the blade tension over 3000 psi.
I hate seeing logs like that smiley_thumbsdown and that is enough pitch buildup to wave the blade. :uhoh:
That is when I am running my LubeMizer on continuous.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47685/IMG_20240503_143901339.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353694)
Black Cherry.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47685/IMG_20240425_105521537.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353693)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47685/IMG_20240430_131524219.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353695)
Finished sawing the white pine and spruce I logged over last winter, and have got through most of the black cherry logs I cut.
Tried to more or less box the heart and grade saw, working around the usual center rot so many have. Got quite a few good grade boards, and lots with nice color. Sent a pic of the boards with curl to one of my best customers, and now those are spoken for. ffcool
Those are some nice looking boards!
Wow, those sure look nice. Wish we had Cherry down here. Is it easy sawing?
Thanks! Yes black cherry saws real nice, and as always the fresher the logs the better. Like I said the difficult part is working around the center rot area. I'll often only get a couple good red boards per face side once I get below the sapwood, and before I get to the rot. Also it's hard to get good 8' boards because of how crooked they grow here. Luckily my customer can use the shorter odd lengths for charcuterie boards, and small cabinets he builds.
Black cherry is my favorite wood to saw and to use for furniture. I have trouble selling it, but on the other hand I can usually buy logs cheap. The commercial mills usually have a few old logs they have been holding waiting for the market to improve. Cherry here is usually good big logs thanks to the low demand. If the market was hot it would be impossible to get logs as we don't have a lot.
I also use lots of boards with sapwood as a design feature.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1010.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=260559)
A many times previous customer just texted me wanting to know when?? He has Cherry to saw. He is a hobby furniture builder so it is always fun to saw for him. "Bout 10 logs total.
There is a possibility that I may finish the beetle killed Pine job that I am sawing tomorrow. I think that we are down to 5 logs in the 26" class which will all be 2X6's.
John (JMoore) got the call on a CL ad for us to saw some hickory logs into slabs. He raised our hourly rate by $50 an hour without talking to his partner. We sawed the logs, and the customer paid the rate and gave us a $20 tip. He may be CEO material. At first, he said saw the slabs as you would your own. We sawed at 2 1/2" thick. After the first two or three he said cut them at 1 1/8". He's the boss, but this is hickory. I suggested a sticker every 16" and to park a truck on top of them while they dry.
Yellowhamer would have had a conniption fit had these logs rolled (been dragged unwillingly) into his yard. They would not roll, had more points than the mine that sank the Maine but at least they were clean and without hardware.
The customer has a book coming out on Amazon this week about detectives. I told him I probably would not leave a copy lying around my house, fearing my wife would think I switched teams, due to the title.
Cypress, red oak and more pine are up next.
Wow Larry - that's impressive Cherry. Around here it's twisted, small, full of rot, and basically only grows on the edge of fields. Never seen it like that.
Yeah, same here SS - I find myself milling small cherry logs because that's all we have. Cut out the pith and sapwood and there are surprisingly useful boards within though. Same deal: twisted, branched and small diameter though.
It's my favorite to mill also Larry.
That cherry Larry sawed... Wowzer! :shocked2: :shocked2: :shocked2:
Quote from: caveman on May 06, 2024, 09:46:09 PMJohn (JMoore) got the call on a CL ad for us to saw some hickory logs into slabs. He raised our hourly rate by $50 an hour without talking to his partner. We sawed the logs, and the customer paid the rate and gave us a $20 tip. He may be CEO material.
I would suggest not telling him that as it just might cause his head to swell and then his hat won't fit.
GAB
If he got me that much of a raise, I'd buy him a bigger hat😊
some may take offense to the CEO comment. not always a complement in some circles! :thumbsup: :snowball: ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Love some cherry (old pics) :thumbsup:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37318/IMG_20230717_164512053_HDR.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=344874)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37318/IMG_20230717_181424916_HDR.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=344875)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37318/IMG_20230717_175257590_HDR.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=344879)
Oops started a new page. This is related to the stuff back there
Quote from: doc henderson on May 07, 2024, 11:33:23 AMsome may take offense to the CEO comment. not always a complement in some circles! :thumbsup: :snowball: ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
We may elect him CFO.
This is a LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=40713.0) to probably the largest total Cherry job that I have sawn, 2609bf.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0722.JPG)
I believe that this 31" butt Cherry is the largest that I have sawn.
I reduced my blade inventory again today by 2. A nail and yup an eye screw. 5 blades lost so far on this job. This is some of the 9200+bf that I have sawn on this job. Only two logs left that we will finish sawing Thursday morning. Mostly 2X6 & 2X8 framing lumber for a new home for the customer.
Dug it out, put a new blade on, and kept on keeping on. ffcool
Quite a cherry log there...
That looks all too familiar Lynn: -Customer's hickory below
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52943/20230610_111026.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=344122)
Wow Lynn, that makes you the Cherry King!
Does Cherry saw like ERC or more like SYP?
Never thought much about comparing Tim, but there is not much different between sawing anything unless there is blade buildup. Sawing is sawing.
Pitchy Pine and Longleaf are my worst blade buildup species that I regularly saw. Ash and Live Oak are bad, but I seldom saw either.
I guess I should ask.............is Cherry a hard hardwood or a soft hardwood?
I would consider it hard like Sycamore and Beech.
Quote from: Magicman on May 07, 2024, 07:13:24 PMThis is a LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=40713.0) to probably the largest total Cherry job that I have sawn, 2609bf.
I believe that this 31" butt Cherry is the largest that I have sawn.
I think the past tense for see is seen! ffsmiley Or maybe down south it is seeed! ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Got nothing to do with see nor seeing.
Sawn as in sawed....verb, past participle of saw. LINK (https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sawn)
Deleted
Quote from: Magicman on May 07, 2024, 08:59:30 PMI would consider it hard like Sycamore and Beech.
DanG it all Lynn, I have never sawn Sycamore or Beech either.
On your list of favorite woods to saw, where is Cherry on your list?
I don't have such a list, I just saws um and leaves um. Actually never thought about a "favorite". I saw very little Cherry.
Well OK, Walnut would have to be a favorite simply because it is.....Walnut. ffsmiley
come on Lynn, don't dangle your participle. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcool
doc, Just stick with your "other" language.......Latin. ffcheesy
Doc,
I guess Magicman needs a prescription. He's asking for you to Latin speak. smiley_smug01
My biggest cherry job is what I call the golf course job. In 2019 a tornado and high winds hit a local golf course taking down a huge amount of trees including a lot of cherry.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSCF1238~1.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353712)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSCF1236~1.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353711)
The downed trees were on the golf course and the only way to get them off the golf course was over the course. Lots of 36" logs but to reduce impact on the grounds the big ones would be cut a little over 6' long.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSCF1242.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353713)
Of course there was some poor logs but not without value. We have a Bikes, Blues, BBQ festival. Cherry smoking wood is in high demand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSCF1261~0.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353714)
The golf course grounds crew would bring out a trailer load of good logs about every two or three weeks for the 6 months it took to clean up the course. I sawed all the cherry on a share basics as I wanted the wood. The golf course is on the LPGA tour and iffen you want a little cherry table made from cherry wood that came from the course just give me a hollar......and bring lots of $$$$$'s.
36" cherry is a honker, the only thing I touch that big is EWP