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Split this...

Started by Good Feller, October 02, 2008, 10:54:51 AM

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Good Feller

I think I'm going to make my own splitter.  Anybody have any good ideas,experiences,plans?  I have access to everything I'll need in the dumpsters where I work... ie I found 2 brand new hydraulic rams lastnight.  They were discontinued....  Amazing what big companies throw away.  Looks like they're 3 1/2" X 18".  I also run an angle saw at work and cut every kind of steel you can imagine.  I can get scrap steel cheap! 

I want something that will go from the horizontal position to vertical (that's a must).  Would you make something that could be pulled down a highway?  I was thinking about making the splitter so it could only be towed with my 4 wheeler (or truck at very slow speeds).  I have a trailer long enough that I could haul the splitter and 4 wheeler to the woods.  

I'm wanting to make this for as cheap as possible.  I might be able to find the axle, pump,valve, and hoses at work.  I don't know where I'll get the engine or what size-8hp? 

Also, I made a wedge out of 1 inch thick bar.  It's
6 5/8" tall.  Is that going to be tall enough?   I think 8-12" would be better.... 
       

Good Feller

beenthere

The cylinders seem a bit small...at least in length. By the time you put a wedge on the end of the cylinder (s?) you will lose a few of those 18".

I like the 8hp engine size myself. I know there are splitters with smaller engines, but I prefer not to run them at WOT, but just at a good idle.

Google for some plans, and for some good pics of the tip-up splitter models.

Good luck with your project. Would like some pics of it in progress. We like pics.  ;D ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ely

i have .02 cents again. i am gonna say the wedge needs to be taller than you say. the 8 to 12 inch would do ok. the wedge would also be better if it was wider, i am talking about a stationary wedge, not one on a ram. my wedge i replaced  on a 10 ton lay down splitter was short but now it is tall. the pump was changed to a 20 ton before i got it and the 5 horse would balk after i put the taller wedge on it. it now has a china made 6.5 horse and it will split wood like a champ, within reason. no 20 inch elm or stuff like that.

just like beenthere said about running wide open, we run the small engine wide open, but when we run the bigger splitter with a 12 horse engine we run it just off an idle for most everything. it has the wedge on the ram and it is way wider than the small splitter ram. i bet it is 3 inches. my staionary ram is maybe 1.5 or so.

above all if i was buildng a splitter i would put a filter on the hyd system. the small one i have did not have a filter in it.

if all you have is the 18 inch cyl. you may be able to hook them end for end and extend them at the same time. but this would create a lot more weight to move around. you really only need 20 -22 inches of stroke as a minimum. you can use more. just dont let the wedge meet the push block in your design.


we use ours splitters behind atv's and just pull them up on trailers to make a big move. our small wheels without bearing would not take much hiway use.  good luck

Stephen Alford

To me the basic construction theory for your own self built splitter is  a unit capable of handling the species and size of wood which you intend to handle. There are a couple of ideas which have been of benefit to me.  I am not an expert in fluid mechanics so the the purchase of an inline oil pressure guage is helpful, great for setting the detent on the selector and so so usefull when things don't work as they should. Not all pistons are the same so finding out what they were designed for can contribute to the performance of your splitter. For example stabilizer pistons for heavy equipment are great.  The purpose of a stabilizer piston is pressure in one direction and to hold it.  When you open one up the seals are of v shape on the power stroke.  As mentioned a filter is a good idea and back that up with a magnet on the outside of the tank, in the middle under the tank. Keep restrictions to a minimum in the lines ie use of 90's etc it only adds to the temp of the oil which becomes relative when you blow a line.  If you plan to make it self propelled older mazda rearends are great as they have a flat flange on the front of the rearend which faciliates hydraulic drive. A knife which is 2 way or 4way helps if you serve a broad market. Automated selectors have an increased risk factor.  Good luck with your project. Stephen.
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Good Feller

Ok here's what I have to work with....

1 beam: 5"sq. X 3/8" Wall 77" long

2 wedges: 1" thick 6 5/8" tall ,,,, 1" thick 81/2" tall 

3 new cylinders: 2 3/4" X 26" ,,,, (2) 3 1/4" X 19"

Which combination should I use???  I'll be splitting oak,hickory,ash,,, I'd like to split stuff up to 20" diameter.  I'm thinking about trading off the cylinders for a bigger one.    I've also decided this will not be for highway use. 

I'd like to have an I-beam but all I have is the square tube.  I think I'll weld a 1/4" plate to the bottom of the wedge.  This is what the wedge will slide down the beam on.  To keep it on track I'm thinking about welding 2 seperate pieces of angle iron down the beam.  I believe the "husky" at Tractor supply is set up that way.  Think this will work? 





Good Feller

beenthere

You look to be in good shape with that beam.
My splitter has a 5" sq box beam, and tho the wedge doesn't move, there is a slide that wraps around the 5" beam that tracks the push head. It should work for moving the wedge as well. This pic might explain it better.
I prefer the stationary wedge but that isn't possible if the splitter tilts up to split large pieces on the ground.
Probaly preference is what one gets used to over time.  :)




south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Good Feller

Cool beenthere!  I've never seen one with a slide like that.  What size cylinder is that? 
Good Feller

sawguy21

Beenthere is right, the stationary wedge will not work if you intend to split vertically. You probably want a minimum 4" ram. This diameter works well with a 6hp engine and suitably sized pump. If you want to quarter you will definitely need a larger ram, larger pump and more power. Remember that a large cylinder=power, small =speed.
The unit in the picture is interesting, it appears that the beam serves as the hydraulic reservoir. Do you have a wheel brake to keep it in one spot during use? It is probably quite heavy.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

wannabeonetoo

Here goes ....my latest recipe .... 12" high wedge(if you can incorporate a 4 way ,excellent  ;D),5" dia. bore cyl.,24" stroke (a must have!), 16gpm 2 stage pump,12" high "pusher",10 gal.res.,6x6x3/8  I-beam,9hp.honda (or equiv.), 2" sq.tubing removable tongue because these things have been known to disappear when left unattended  :'(.
Go to the auto wrecker and have them cut out the rear bearing assbly's from a small fwd car, weld onto 3' dia pipe,voila instant hwy. axel .Use the little dougnut spares for your wheels,it keeps the package more compact. Make sure your control valve has a detent on the retract stroke to allow you to "run" off to get the next block  ;D ;D.Don't skimp on the weld,this is a case of more is better (penetration too).
Mine is not a vert./horiz. model,Idrilled some holes through the bottom web to allow me to add a couple of 30" ramps (2x6x30 with a nail left protruding to enguage the hole),works great ,I roll 24'+dia. x24" long hard maple blocks with ease !!
If you use your "box" tubing,just stitch weld on a pc. of 3/8"-1/2" flat plate for your "deck".If you stay horiz. you can eliminate a tank by using the core of the tubing as it.Then weld a vert. pc. of the tube (allowing the internal cavities to connect (kind of "L" shaped)),then you have something to weld the back connector for your cyl. to,and also the oil filler.
And yes...filter..filter..filter. Same goes for the guage , they are a must to "tweak" the max.out of the valve (which translates into MAX. tonnage for the system).
Be sure to wire brush and paint it real purdy, when you post the pics. we all want to ....OOOOH   and ....AWWWW ;) ;D ;)
Have fun !!!!!!!
          Steve 

beenthere

I'll check the cyl. out tomorrow, but am sure it is 4" cyl bore, 2" rod, and 24" throw (4x24x2).

The splitting beam doesn't have oil in it, but there is also the same size beam for an axle, which houses the hyd. oil, and holds the motor/pump. Not too heavy to roll around, but no wheel brakes needed...if on a slope, then a wheel chock works. On the flat, it sits still. I've added the third wheel in place of a stand. Remove the third wheel and a trailer coupler behind the wedge allows it to be towed on the road. Lots of road miles on this one...but now it rides in a trailer if on the road. :)

A tough crotch split from the wrong end can stick the piece onto the wedge pretty tight. Most (99%) of the wood gets split however.

Simple but good design.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

wannabeonetoo

Depending on what you are splitting ,you may not require the tonnage of my splitter (approx. 31 tons),however once you've used "THE BEAST" you kind of feel spoiled  ;D.The only challenge it has had was a couple of 32" elm crotchs,one pass through with the chainsaw then back to the splitter (no problemo once the stress was relieved).It is also plenty fast enough 12 1/2 sec. no load cycle.
I guess what I'm trying to say is go as big as possible.
  Thanks
   Steve

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