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sawing old barn timbers

Started by climber2, December 21, 2015, 11:27:57 AM

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climber2

Looking for some pointers on sawing old beams...
I have a lead on milling a bunch of old (75+yrs) white oak barn beams for an interior decorator builder. I'm going out on a limb and thinking these will need special attention. Blades, lube, whatever you can think of.
Any feedback is appreciated!
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

WellandportRob

Charge by the hour. It will be very slow going.  4 degree blade slow feed.  Good luck!
2016 Wood-Mizer LT40HG 35 , Alaskan MKIII 60", Chev Duramax, Anderson logging trailer. Lucas DSM 23-19.

Jim_Rogers

Pull every nail from every surface and check with metal detector carefully.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Sheepkeeper

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on December 21, 2015, 12:31:16 PM
Pull every nail from every surface and check with metal detector carefully.

Jim Rogers

x2 ... or 3 ...or 4 ... and you'll probably still hit something. Been there, done that. More than once  :-[
The hurry-er I go the behind-er I get.

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

beenthere

And a dust mask like MM wears...
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Bandmill Bandit

I do "re-claim" barn, ware house, grain elevator, other old lumber fairly regular.

Rate    $100 and hour.
Blades $50  per nail/metal strike

Minimum is $150, customer brings timbers to me and is responsible for the waste removal/disposal.

Don't find dust to be a real significant issue but do wear a dust mask if the wind is in my face.

I keep 2 or 3 blades set at 32 to 35 for cutting dry material so lube has yet to be an issue. I use water with 1oz per gallon of a bio degradable pine base heavy duty industrial "soap" but that is the same as I always use, but add windshield concentrate in winter.
   
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

climber2

Right now all I have is ten degree blades. Will they work, or do I have to get something else?
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

Magicman

Since that is what you have then give them a try, but I suspect that 4° would be better.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: climber2 on December 21, 2015, 08:18:49 PM
Right now all I have is ten degree blades. Will they work, or do I have to get something else?

Trust me.....take the advice from the others. Please use the 4 degree blades. It will save you heartache.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

climber2

Thanks for the pointers guys.  Any suggestions as far as which manufacturer to use on those four degree blades?
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

Magicman

Adding your sawmill to your profile generally helps with questions.

I use WM because I also use their Resharpening services.  I have not heard of any "bad" blades so I would go for what is convenient to obtain.  There are several sources listed by the Sponsors on the left.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

47sawdust

I think he is the proud owner of a sweet Timber Harvester.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

climber2

Quote from: Magicman on December 22, 2015, 10:57:06 AM
Adding your sawmill to your profile generally helps with questions.

I use WM because I also use their Resharpening services.  I have not heard of any "bad" blades so I would go for what is convenient to obtain.  There are several sources listed by the Sponsors on the left.

Updated, thanks for pointing it out. I had not updated it since I got my first mill last month.
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

Bandmill Bandit

Yes 4* blade do work better on dry material but i find that the wider set works almost as good, as long is it isn't a sappy dry pine you are sawing. That will give you more than heartaches and headaches than you need for sure.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Brad_bb

I sawed 120 reclaimed beams last winter - beech, and some white oak.

De-nailing will take you as much time as milling or sometimes more.  I used a Lumber Wizard 4.  I still managed to hit some nails that were hidden and didn't seem to set off the wizard.  Do a very thorough job de-nailing.  I used woodmizer 7 degree and 9 degree(mostly 7).  Lube was not critical with these woods. i just ran straight water.  Where you really need the lube is wood with pitch like pine or spruce.

This is also an opportunity to make sure your mill is cutting very level to the bed.

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

terrifictimbersllc

I saw old beams regularly for an outfit that sells antique lumber gathered here in the northeast.  Most of it is some form of sappy pine and the rest oak.

They do all the de-nailing and believe me it is time consuming, often I get ahead and am waiting but this is fine with them.

I charge hourly for the whole time there plus a mileage charge to get there. Bands are $20 each, my cost. But I have only hit metal several times in a couple years there.

I use 4 degree blades exclusively for this work. WoodMizer double hard 0.045 x 1-1/4".  I sharpen and set, about 0.025 inches.

The oak requires almost no lube but in wide critical cuts I often am watching very carefully for tension drop and turn on the lube for cooling.  This would be from a bit of dulling perhaps.

With respect to lube use the pine is very different, I use lube fast pulsing mostly when I see any buildup, full on beyond that if needed, which usually keeps the blade clean.

Some pine beams are so sappy they look like candlesticks. Or portions of beams.  These require spinning the blade with lube full on, not cutting to clear the sap.  I can mostly monitor buildup in suspect beams,  by watching the tension gauge.   Sap buildup will cause diving or climbing of the blade.  Sometimes the lube will not clear the blade, in that case I scrape lumps off  with a utility knife.  Not very often though.

I use Cascade in water for lube.

Merry Christmas!!
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Bandmill Bandit

FYI My pricing is in Canadian dollars so you have to knock off 30% minimum to get a comparable USD price.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

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