iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

What, how and where is your first cut with a bandsaw mill

Started by rasorbackQ, July 09, 2013, 01:19:41 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

longtime lurker

I don't own a bandsaw mill but I figure my opening cut is going to be not much different (or I'm about to make total fool of myself again) so...

Log 12"SED flaring to 18" . I'm going to work out what I want in terms of working surface on the small end... so say I'm thinking a 4 x 1 backsawn board there then I want a  4 inch wide surface at that point. Then I'm going to eyeball down the log and figure what I'm going to lose above that cut in terms of saleable recovery. Saleable recovery means if it's not long enough to sell at a given dimension I don't want it. That might be 24" of inch at not less then 3" wide in a cabinet timber, or a pallet board, or a 36" 10x 2 stairtread maybe. Depends on the log. If I can see something I can recover and sell for more then it costs me in time to recover it above that opening cut I lift the desired thickness and make that my opener.

If it's a long log though I might split the difference and pull my first 4 x 1 out at a shorter length. Then think about a 5 "or 6" underneath him. 

Every log is always a compromise between:
What cut pattern would give me the highest $ value
What cut pattern would give me what I'm after in terms of filling orders or cutting sizes that sell quick.
What cut pattern the log wants to give me.

I've never had one yet where those three things were all the same. When I do I think I'll retire. :D
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

customsawyer

All that I am going to add to what has been said is that the way I open up a log depends on what my target is. If I am going for hardwood grade I turn the log for the best face. If I am sawing timbers out of hardwood or softwood and the log has sweep in it I put the horns at a 45° angle up towards the loader arms. This lets me remove stress in two sides of the log instead of just one and it will give you a timber with less wane on it. If I am cutting framing lumber from softwood then I put the horns up like others.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

hookdrvr

I'm following this post, after cutting this weekend on cedar and feeling like I wasted some wood, this helps to answer some of my questions.
One thing I will ask, what are "horns" on a tree?
I've been trying to figure out the best way to turn a log to maximize my lumber I'm getting out of it.
I've been taking the difference in the measurement of the large end from the small end, dividing that and raising the small end of the log that distance from the bed of the mill. Is this the best way to get a better cut, especially for post? When I roll the log 180, Do I let it lay flat on the bed since I've already made the initial cut on less of an angle?
Thanks for any advice.
Timber King B16
For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
Leonardo da Vinci

drobertson

howdy hook, and to answer one of the questions, in my opinion, yes, once you have, as you stated, taken out the taper on one face, the opposite side should be cut parallel to that first cut, not to say you still won't end up with a few short boards getting to full length cut, only other option is to slab heavy, and this causes the waste you are talking about.  I saw the horns off first most of the time, these are the high ends of the logs that have a sweeping curve to them.  The main reason I do the horns first is because many times the log turner will get under center of the log making turning a pain for me, I like to get what I call the trouble out of the way first, I have in mind what direction I am going, but the next two cuts will ultimately determine how I get there.  I am quite sure some others will chime ,  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

hookdrvr

David,
I understand now on the horns. I've had to cut a few off for the necessity for turning, like you say.
I got into a situation saturday on a long cedar where I wound up wasting more than I should have. A glass of sweet tea helped in calming the nerves and think a little clearer on how better to do it next time. Experience of others is always a great teacher though. 
Thanks
:P
Timber King B16
For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
Leonardo da Vinci

drobertson

I think the main trick is having a face with enough surface to get the 90 degree turn is critical. Otherwise one must have a good eye or square level. There are times I rotate 180 degrees, but not often. I like to take off each side evenly. Just my way, there are so many ways to accomplish the task, I just like to keep the head close to the same height for many reasons,  With the Accuset there are so many advantages that one can use to speed up the process.  Keep on cutting, glad to hear of dust and boards being made,  Lots of fun, and a lil cash to boot!  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Deese

Holy Moley! I wish I hadn't read thus discussion so soon! My mill won't be here for at least another week and I was all calm and collected until reading this. I am now a nervous wreck---now Im going to have nightmares about horns, piths, sweeps, and whatever else was mentioned. I've got a LOT of hardwoods to cut as building material for our house and now I'm unsure of where to start. Its unnerving to imagine that i wont realize ive made a bunch of mistakes until several months later as the  lumber dries and begins to twist and warp :-( Heck- I won't even remember what I did by that time! LOL!
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Magicman

This indeed is a good thread, but remember that everything depends upon what and where your target is in the log.  When opening the first face, there is no "one size fits all". 

After you get your sawmill up and running, just grab a few logs and have a good time.  Experience is the best teacher.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

dboyt

Quote from: hookdrvr on July 15, 2013, 11:26:24 AM
A glass of sweet tea helped in calming the nerves and think a little clearer on how better to do it next time.

That's some of the best advice on this thread.  Just relax about things.  Accept the fact that you're going to lose some wood, especially at first.  When a board warps, you can reconstruct how you cut it by looking at the ends of the board and visualizing how it was cut relative to the center of the growth rings (pith).

Not to stress you more, but I'd estimate 10 times as much wood gets wasted by improper drying than from sawing technique.  Cut stickers & blocking before starting in on the lumber for the house, and cover your stacks.  There are lots of threads on the subject.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

Thank You Sponsors!