Hello All, This is a test to see if I can upload videos. Spoke to the admin and he says it might be based on my time on the board more than anything technical. So let's see.
First, quick re-intro: I'm John, and I live in Japan. Just learning to TF in order to build my own house on a piece of mountain land I bought a few years ago. I have a YouTube channel tracking everything from clearing the land to (in time) building my very own TF home. Before I start building my real home, I'm trying to learn some of the basics of TF'ing, so I decided to build a small 8' x 12' "tiny house" based on Will Beemer's book "Learn to Timber Frame." I'm tracking this build on my channel.
There are 12 videos in the mini-series now, and each is about 15 minutes long. They cover various stages of the build, from sills to posts to bents to plates to rafters. My lastest is on making pegs in preparation for the final assembly. As I said, I'm a complete beginner at TF'ing, construction in general, land-clearing, road-building,... all of that that goes into homesteading on virgin land. So the purpose of the videos is not "to teach," but "to be taught." Bear with me.
Let's see how this goes:
Timber Frame Tiny House in Japan â€" Measuring and Marking (S2E17) - YouTube (https://youtu.be/x5s8835qQiE)
PS-1. If I'm breaking any forum rules, please let me know. I can always grab screen shots from the videos and post image-based posts if need be.
PS-2. if only the YouTube link shows up above, can someone tell me how to make it appear like an image or "click-able" video image?
Thanks and Cheers.
Well, that seemed to work. I'll wait a couple days and follow up with a new vid, unless I hear otherwise from the forum.
Thanks,
JT
Well, I suggest using the videos as a companion to your posts with the major content on the subject to stay within rules, such as the rule about starting a topic for the purpose of directing someone to another website rule such as to purposely promote a youtube channel, like you just did.
This admin talked to no one, and no one is allowed to upload videos here as we can't host videos. Photos however must be in a forestry forum gallery. No offsite photos.
Quote from: Jeff on March 15, 2021, 03:56:30 PM
Well, I suggest using the videos as a companion to your posts with the major content on the subject to stay within rules, such as the rule about starting a topic for the purpose of directing someone to another website rule such as to purposely promote a youtube channel, like you just did.
This admin talked to no one, and no one is allowed to upload videos here as we can't host videos. Photos however must be in a forestry forum gallery. No offsite photos.
Ah, I thought it was too easy. My apologies for breaking the rules, Jeff, though I did try to avoid that by reaching out to Jim before making the post.
I had hoped the videos themselves would open up conversations on any number of TF topics, from cutting plates to length of rafter tails to hand-ripping vs power tools to benefits of housings, etc,...and that the member response would be educational to me *and* to everyone who took the time to read the post.
Like you suggest, if I reframe my post, perhaps with a question about one of the above topics, and use the video to illustrate the question, I can get the engagement I want and stay within the rules.
Thank you.
JT
Very good video, it's great to come across on this forum. Nice square and enjoyed seeing the ways you used it. A couple comments:
For things like tackling a half wedged dovetail, this is where this forum can help you. Search the archives or ask a question.
One important thing about starting out timber framing is to take your time and you seem to be doing this. It's better to spend the time up front to diagnose anything that isn't quite right, even if it takes days, than blow through something that's off in order to meet a schedule and end up repeating the mistake over and over forever and dealing with the even more time consuming aftermath.
I think the term you want is "plate" rather than "upper sill".
It's a good idea to clamp lighter work pieces like the braces. More accuracy and less energy waste.
I don't know your reasoning, but ideally knee braces are 1/3rd the height of the post they are bracing. But they can be in many cases adjusted for clearances. It's a good idea to have an engineer look over a design.
It's a personal choice, but unless all sizing is done around a traditional framing square I found switching to metric to be easier and less error prone than imperial units and haven't looked back. Everything is millimeters: there are no feet, inches, fractions, and different scales (1/16's, 1/8's, etc) to convert. Everything becomes simpler and consistent.
This may be tough, but try to find a timber framer to work with you for even a day or try to get to a timber framing event. You have learned a great deal from books and that's commendable and valuable. But there's an incredible amount you can learn from an experienced person that you'll love to have in your knowledge bank. And another possibility. You are building an American style timber frame in Japan. I am sure there are a lot of Japanese framers who would love to see your project and how you work and could exchange ideas.
You are very handy with that circular saw and some do use them, but there will be cases you won't be able to use a circular saw so hand sawing all joints is nice for consistency, practice, and precision. You look to already have a good japanese hand saw.
Quote from: canopy on March 15, 2021, 09:29:17 PM
For things like tackling a half wedged dovetail, this is where this forum can help you. Search the archives or ask a question.
I think the term you want is "plate" rather than "upper sill".
It's a good idea to clamp lighter work pieces like the braces. More accuracy and less energy waste.
It's a personal choice, but unless all sizing is done around a traditional framing square I found switching to metric to be easier and less error prone than imperial units and haven't looked back. Everything is millimeters: there are no feet, inches, fractions, and different scales (1/16's, 1/8's, etc) to convert. Everything becomes simpler and consistent.
I am sure there are a lot of Japanese framers who would love to see your project and how you work and could exchange ideas.
Thanks for all the great feedback, Canopy. Just what I was hoping for. Much appreciated.
Cheers,
JT