Watch those falling trees

[WV Sawmiller]

   Just about too cold to saw today (around 17 degrees - I sawed 2 ash logs yesterday for my shed extension but still need half dozen 14' 2X6 rafters) so I cut down another dying ash tree. Was the twin to one I cut last week. Cut the brother stump off out of the way and notched the tree toward my 4 wheeler road where most clear of overhead limbs. Put a snatch block to a maple and the end of the cable as high up on the ash as I could reach. Ran my long cable to the ball hitch on the back of my 4 wheeler, decided looked a little short so added another 6-7' long short cable I use to drag logs and tops. Decided still close so added a 6' chain from my 4 wheeler basket. Decided not enough pull from 4 wheeler alone so I hooked the 4 wheeler winch to a big buckeye and pulled tight till back wheels started coming off the ground. Went back to the tree and made my backcut with a plunge cut for my hinge. Cut all the way through but as soon as the chain came out the back the tree sat on my bar and the tree just sat there. I headed over to the 4 wheeler to see about winching a little more. Heard a loud pop behind me and I took off running and did not stop till I was 20' in front of my 4 wheeler. The tree fell right where I wanted it but also right where I had been standing when it I heard it pop. Top branches landed about 6' behind the back of my 4 wheeler. Everything worked out okay but was too close a call. The butt log was about 22" in diameter where I cut it off the stump.

   Next time I'll add another long cable till I am sure I am at least half again the estimated max height of whatever tree I am cutting.

[beenthere]

And don't forget to put in a couple wedges to keep it from setting back on you...  glad you are ok... and lucky.

[WV Sawmiller]

BT,

   I had the wedge and sledge ready to drive it but I used a plunge cut and the bar got pinched before it came clear so could not drive the wedge in. The tree was growing right out of an old rock pile which did not help access any either.

[beenthere]

The plunge cut doesn't keep you from using wedges... and you don't complete the backcut after the plunge.
Leave a bit of wood that does one of two things. Acts as a wedge so the cut doesn't close on the bar, or it acts as a tension piece to keep the tree from falling until you are ready to nip it when all is clear.
In your case, you should have left about an inch, removed the saw, put two wedges in place in the kerf and tapped in snug. Then nipped the last inch and driven the wedges in further.

These are good techniques to know and practice to avoid the situation you had here.

[OntarioAl]

beenthere
X2
I use that technique on a. regular basis
Al

[WV Sawmiller]

The plunge cut doesn't keep you from using wedges... and you don't complete the backcut after the plunge.
Leave a bit of wood that does one of two things. Acts as a wedge so the cut doesn't close on the bar, or it acts as a tension piece to keep the tree from falling until you are ready to nip it when all is clear.
In your case, you should have left about an inch, removed the saw, put two wedges in place in the kerf and tapped in snug. Then nipped the last inch and driven the wedges in further.

These are good techniques to know and practice to avoid the situation you had here.

   Thx for the advice. I'll try that next time. I guess using this technique you swing the blade tip to both sides to just leave a small section of holding wood at the back. I had left an inch or so in the middle between the back cut and the plunge cut as a hinge and that part worked fine.

   Not sure I could have gotten a wedge in from one side because of the rock pile. Did not want to stand on that side as unstable footing.  Must have been nearly perfectly balanced as just stood on the stump. Guess a light breeze freed it as I was heading to the 4 wheeler to add a little more tension. Obviously didn't take much  since it went ahead and fell with no extra tension.

   Terrain up here makes it tough to work as steep, often slippery slopes. Sometimes hard to find safe, stable ground to stand so you still have safe escape lanes. I use cables and snatch blocks way more often than an experienced logger would have to do to help ensure the trees fall where I need them to go. Getting my mill and cutting more, bigger trees makes me respect the guys who do this for a living even more.

[dboyt]

With experience, I think you'll find a 20" diameter tree is much easier to fell than an 8" tree.  Get some Game of Logging training, if it is possible.  It isn't rocket science, but there is a lot to learn.  I bore cut 95% of the time.  Here is a link to a pretty good Youtube video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTOlmCijjs It is a small tree, and the technique works even better on bigger ones.  There are other videos on using the plunge cut for bigger trees, once you know what to watch for.  Be careful!  Treacherous footing can be a real issue.  Glad you're OK.

[WV Sawmiller]

With experience, I think you'll find a 20" diameter tree is much easier to fell than an 8" tree.  Get some Game of Logging training, if it is possible.  It isn't rocket science, but there is a lot to learn.  I bore cut 95% of the time.  Here is a link to a pretty good Youtube video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTOlmCijjs It is a small tree, and the technique works even better on bigger ones.  There are other videos on using the plunge cut for bigger trees, once you know what to watch for.  Be careful!  Treacherous footing can be a real issue.  Glad you're OK.

Dboyt,

   Very good video. Video said use wedge or cable to control fall direction and showed proper wedge use. I had set up with a cable  but did not have quite enough tension on the cable to pull the tree and it sat on my saw at the end of the plunge cut. I should have used the wedge as insurance in addition to the cable and used it as shown on video. I had enough back lean I'd have been leery of using just wedges alone.