Shop air

[metalspinner]

I picked this air compressor up last year from a local paint and body shop. It's a 7 1/2 hp, 120 gallon tank with a two stage pump.  They were upgrading to screw compressors. 



 
Finally, today, I got it up and running. 
The guy that used to maintain this unit for the paint and body shop came out to give it a once over for me. 
I still need to plumb it in and will get to that in the next couple weeks. I'm thinking about using Rapidair piping system. Anyone here use this for their shop?
I need clean, clean air because I also spray auto paints and clears. 
Part of the package I bought was a refrigerated dryer. The guy that came to the shop, he and his dad actually designed and manufactured these dryers them sold the company. He was very happy to reunite with the dryer and was eager to share his passion for air. 😉
Here's the dryer when it was hooked up at the body shop. 


 

[Walnut Beast]

Nice setup. Dryer further away from compressor. Copper pipe with a tee fitting pointed up then make a riser coming back down with a connection for your air hose and various locations a few tees down with a shut off to open and let moisture out. I had a looped system this way and a moisture separator and never had moisture problems painting or sandblasting in a cabinet inside and sandblasting outside with a pressure sandblaster 

[21incher]

I used the 3/4inch size that comes in a roll out in my machine and auto shops. It works good but looks terrible.  It is impossible to get perfectly straight rolled out piping. Doesn't  really  bother me because  it was the cheapest option and works good for my needs.  Now I see they sell rigid systems that would  look better.  I use a toilet paper type filter  as the final filter  for my plasma cutter and painting because  they will remove the synthetic  oil that seems to always find a way into  compressed air systems when using it in the pump for longer life. Most std separators will not.  I think rapid air piping is approved by most building  codes.

[Walnut Beast]

This is a 10hp pressure lube air compressor and ran copper piping with a pipe going down with shut off to drain moisture coming out of compressor plus automatic on the bottom of the 80 gallon tank. Hard copper to compressor because this unit has virtually no vibration. No moisture problems with copper

 

[sawguy21]

Nice setup! You definitely want the oil separator with your usage. We ran a blast cabinet with soda so the air had to be dry, the lines were run high on the wall and each drop had a ball valve below the hose bib to drain any condensation. I question a toilet paper filter, you don't want the fibers in your guns.

[Southside]

A buddy of mine bought a highway painting truck for the cab and frame.  Asked me if I would be interested in the compressor that is run via a hydraulic pump powered off a 4BT Cummins.  Need to go take a look at that.  Was thinking along the lines of a 1,000 gallon propane tank for storage and a quick connect to keep the unit portable when necessary.  I am jealous of the setups you both have.  My "shop" compressor has been found wanting on many occasions.  

[Larry]

I bought this low hour Champion at auction about 10 years ago.



It ran a Walmart tire shop and came with a 15 hp motor.  Couldn't start it with my RPC reliably, so I swapped it for a 10 hp single phase.  One of my better buys.  I thought about getting a dryer but with the big tank and low usage I don't have any problem with water.  I use it with my plasma, sandblaster, widebelt, and spray lots of lacquer.  I also use it with my Dynabrade ROS, the Festool got sold!

I won't show my plumbing......not quite professional :D :D.

Good luck with your machine, it looks sweet.

Edit, I should add that I do use a water separator and toilet paper filter on the plasma.  I found spraying lacquer the air is dry enough I don't need the filter.

[21incher]

Nice setup! You definitely want the oil separator with your usage. We ran a blast cabinet with soda so the air had to be dry, the lines were run high on the wall and each drop had a ball valve below the hose bib to drain any condensation. I question a toilet paper filter, you don't want the fibers in your guns.

Look up motor guard m60 it's a sub micron filter.  They call them toilet paper filters because the cartridge looks like a roll of toilet paper.  Ingersoll synthetic oil goes through most standard filters.

[doc henderson]

I have an IR 7.5 hp 80 gallon tank in the basement under the wood shop. 34 x 50.  It starts out 1.25 inch black iron pipe and transitions down to 3/4 the goes in a loop around the basement.  there are two drops to drain any condensate.  the air to the shop goes up inside the wall and out.  so the flow can come from both directions.  the pipe added 11 gallons of storage.  I have another 80 gallon tank. and a spare 60 gallon tank.  if you mount the intake remote in the attic or outside, it will reduce the noise.  Mine in the basement is barely audible in the shop.
I made a base and added 4 inch casters.  I also bought a 2 foot section of flex hose so the compressor does not vibrate the actual pipe.

[Erik A]

A word of caution... I worked at an auto shop that had run pvc for the air, it was up high above the lights, not that that is any better, but a kid jumped up on a bench to drive a nail with a hammer and hit the pipe! It blew 2 to 3 ft pieces out of a 50 ft run all over the shop!

[doc henderson]

yes! do not use pvc.  it degrades over time and will explode after you have grown to trust it into shards.  I made a potatoe/confetti gun out of 3 inch pvc in the shape of an H.  used it in a cub scout parade.  it worked fine.  we won first place for a Christmas theme and shot "snow in the air twice a block.  5 years later pulled it out to test it and at 30 pound I heard a creaking sound and told my son to get behind a pallet.  i thought it was warped and rocking in the sand.  I touched it with my foot.  It exploded with enough force to dent metal and break trim on the garage door.  5 different neighbors came to see if we were ok.  we found pieces of it 150 feet away.  I had a tiny dot of blood on my sternum.  eyes got lucky.  thank got it was not in the back of my truck at that July 4th parade.  I could still be in prison if they thought I brought a bomb.  I got a bead seater and used it for the confetti gun tank.

[sawguy21]

@doc henderson  brought up a good point. We had a larger unit in an upstairs store room to free up floor space and eliminate the noise but it got so hot in the summer the pump paint started to discolour. The maintenance man ran an intake pipe outside to a Donaldson filter, it made all the difference. The pump ran cooler, quieter, cycle times were shorter and there was far less condensation. The intake was screened to keep birds and insects out.

[doc henderson]

you could use pvc for the intake, but not the pressure.

[Crusarius]

if you want straight runs look up maxline pipe straightener. 

[Walnut Beast]

The reason why copper is so good for piping is it dissipates heat the best and that's what you want to get the moisture out. Downside is it's expensive and a little labor involved

[firefighter ontheside]

I was all impressed with my new to me 33 gallon compressor for my shop, but now I have envy.

[Tom King]

What refrigerant does your dryer run?   Mine is old enough to use R12 (or R22-haven't looked at it in years), and I'm undecided what to do whenever it needs work.  I put the rebuild kit on it (new automatic drain, and bits), which doesn't have anything to do with the refrigerant system, but have never messed with it, and fortunately, it still works like a new one.

[blackfoot griz]

 





My favorite tool. Best $450 I've ever spent. Right now it's a scabbed-together setup in my basement.

[Al_Smith]

At my shop I have a 5 HP two stage dumping into two 60 gallon tanks with a drier and oil/water  filter .It's connected to the main line using hydraulic hose just because I have an abundance of same .Most of the shop is just 1/2" black iron pipe with ball valves below the drops .On at 140 PSI and off at 160 .It's just a system I cobbled together from junk I already had . I also  have I think a "speed air " or what ever Grainger sells 10 HP sitting on top of a 120 gallon tank that is a works in progress so to speak .Again just stuff I amassed from holding my hand up at an auction ,several sales .

I might add that double tank deal I usually only dump into one tank .However with both tanks on the line it will raise my car lift at least a half dozen times before the compressor fires up .That lift has a 13.5 " air/over hydraulics cylinder and will lift a pick up truck on 60 PSI . 

[doc henderson]

on the topic of additional tank storage, I am a fan.  you have to be careful that your compressor has a duty cycle that can support the volume (especially if you tend to go all out on these projects).  I think if you had an oiless with a plastic piston and reed valves, you could burn the thing up.  I am not sure if any compressor is intended to have 100% duty cycle.  all the moisture has been in the tank attached to the compressor.  the second is 10 feet down the line, and never has water to drain.

[Al_Smith]

I have the 5 HP set up to run all the time if I want .Much to my surprise I over looked that and before I noticed it it was upwards of 200 PSI before I switched it back  to pressure switch control .My word would that auto hoist move fast with that much pressure on it .Impact wrench had a lot of extra grunt too .
The little compressor in my home garage is a 3HP Craftsman I've had for 40 years .On at 90 and off at 120 PSI I think .At those pressures the impact tools don't have nearly the power as at my shop which is 22 miles from my home .Not real handy .

[sawguy21]

  Be careful, if something gives at that pressure you won't be able to move fast enough!

[Al_Smith]

That 200 PSI was just me not paying attention .

[Larry]

I am not sure if any compressor is intended to have 100% duty cycle.

My Champion as some others have a 100% duty cycle.  I doubt they are intended to be run this way.

My compressor sits outside under the shop shed.  When I wired it up I installed a relay next to it with a remote toggle switch inside to turn it off and on.  While doing that, I also put a light next to the switch by the door so I know when its on.  The light reminds me to turn the compressor off when I leave the shop.

[doc henderson]

Mine is a 100% duty cycle too.  but if you had a leak like a broken pipe and it ran for hours or days, not good.  also at the highest pressures, it works hard and puts out less volume.  just like a heart, it only moves volume when the piston compression exceeds the tank (systemic diastolic)  pressure.  be sure and have a pop off, that should be at the rated pressure for the tank.  If you push (exceed) the limits of the system, do not be fooled if it works day one.  it may fail after 20 years of "abuse" when you least expect it, like when grand kids are over.  I ran a pex line underground from my shop air to my pool house, so I could blow lines out.  I was at work and a filter cup in the pool area blew off.  the neighbor heard it and came to the door to tell my wife.  I was able to tell them where the shut of was .  but when I looked at the system the paint was bubbled up on the compressor cylinder.  too save space I thought about puttin a spare 80 gallon tank outside, and even considered putting it underground outside.  the cool would prob. condense moisture/dry air, and require a drain at the bottom with a valve above ground.  It is fun to have spare time to think of ways to maximize systems like compressed air.  final thought, little leaks add up.  wear and tear on equipment, and electricity costs.  I currently have two spare tanks.  my system is off at 175psi.  the 80 gallon tank is rated at that.  I have a 60 gal rated at 160.  it would prob be fine as I am sure there is a margin.  could change out the pressure relief, but is it worth the risk.