Confused Sawyer

[Randy]

THANKS TO ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR ADVICE!!!!! I have been sawing for myself for several part-time days and my Wood piles looks so much better-------Alot straighter, alot more stable--------------I got  a couple of "old" piles that I would hate for a Good sawyer to see-----------------Any one need some porch rocker material , I got the rocker pieces:D------------I was about ready to sell the mill, but you Guys and Ladies helped me to get a better understanding on how to Take A Log Apart. I really Thank Some of you Guys that Took so much time with me on this topic!! I feel now that I can go out and cut for my customers and Give them alot better lumber for their money. Not a Pro, but more educated. Randy

[customsawyer]

This may not apply but one of the things I have learned is that if you are sawing logs that came off the edge of a field or any open area where the trees had other on one side and the open area on the other there will be alot of stress in those logs from growing torwards the open area/more sunlight all of there life. This kind of relates to what arky said crooked logs make crooked lumber. The only other thing that I might be able to share with you is to take notice where the heart is. In logs and in your self.

[Tex-saw]

I have found after cuting several mbf of pine framing lumber,to get almost perfect,straight and something easy to build with,I saw for thickness,usually 1/5/8",after it shrinks your at 1/1/2",saw as wide as you can,usually i have a target size,this should make 2 2x4 and 1 2x6 etc. then i roll it in the kiln and 3 days later i roll it out and run it through my edger,makeing straight pretty boards,sure some will bend a little as you release tension,but all are well usable,but cutting to size after dry makes the difference,sawing to sizes on the mill is ok but its more a crapshot. if you dont have a edger yous the mill works just as good,set a couple up ther make a trim cut on top to straighten them flip them over a start taking boards.