Belsaw hydraulic conversion (pics added)

[Dave_]

Thanks for the input

[captain_crunch]

Dave
I forgot to get numbers of motor but here is what they llok like

here is pic of drive

You need to scrounge as these motors sell fer around 300 new will get you numbers tomorrow

[Dave_]

Thanks!

[Magicman]

Thanks for the pictures.  It's obvious that you have put your heart into that rebuild.  Congratulations for doing a quality job.

[apm]

Welcome Dave! Your power unit arrangement looks very interesting. Do you have other pictures of it? How are you going to get the sawdust out?

Greg

[paul case]

i was wondering about the sawdust thing myself. usually if a fella ever gets started using one of those circle mills there isnt green grass growing under it.
however that is a mighty fine looking setup. pc

[Dave_]

Greg, I wanted to run the saw a bit before I put my drag chain under the unit.  I figured a fresh pile of sawdust would be a good target for setting my trough.

[Dave_]

As for the drive setup, it's a jury rigged mess :D  My goal was to keep the engine on the trailer to make the whole thing portable, but the trade off is a Rube Goldberg tangle of gear head, chain drive and V belts.  I'm not getting all my horsepower to the saw because of all this, but, again, the trade off is portability.

[mad murdock]

Dave, those motors are Char-Lyn geroter motors, Eaton makes them and we get ours from Spencer Fluid Power in PDX.  We use alot of those motors on our custom built equipment that we use in the application business.  Those motors are very reliable, and not too terribly expensive.  We use love-joy couplers to drive them, or in harsher environs, or higher torque applications, we use the martin chain couplers.  Nice looking mill set up!

[bandmiller2]

Dave,good job on the mill,your flat belt feed looks like whats called a Heacock feed.It looks like your flat belts are a little too tight and fighting each outher,usally they look a little more floppy. Frank C.

[captain_crunch]

Dave
The motor is a Char-lynn/ Eaton  Mod 101-1007-009 with a keyed 1" shaft. It has a broken mounting bracket hoped the one with spline would donate case but no go different bearing. You need to be very careful with bolt lengths as too long a bolt will go against houseing and crack it. This one was wobbling so I decided to tighten it Duane had used 1" bolts and 3/4" was almost too long so this is how I learned about bolt length >:( >:(

[Dave_]

Thanks all.

Bandmiller2, the problem with Belsaw's version of the Heacock drive is the size of the drive pulley on the live shaft.  Because they are so small in diameter, the belts have an excessive slippage.  I am running both belts at this tightness because any looser adds to the slippage issue.  Hence the reason I want to switch to hydraulic.  I think it is telling that Belsaw changed over to a V-belt drive while larger mills stayed with the flat belt design with no problems.  In looking at old Belsaw catalogs, this drive is one of about five different designs that they tried throughout the years starting with a hand crank and finishing with the V-belt.

[customdave]

Dave, very nice job on the restoration of your mill!!  8) 8)



                Dave

[Dave_]

Thank you!

[captain_crunch]

Dave do you have any of the bellsaw manauls if I can remember how, I have them saved somewhere on the blasted Majic box :P :P

[Dave_]

http://owwm.com/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=86&tab=3

[argyle1]

hi Dave
any small hyd mtr will run your carriage----the smaller the mtr, the less gal per min of oil it will take---there are several ways to get the rpm you want, starting with your pump. if your pump is coupled to its drive, you are stuck with the rpm of your power supply, but if its belted you can change the ratio of pulleys to change the gal per min.
you can also change the ratio between the motor and the carriage feed spool by changing sprockets.
a third option is to add a flow control between the valve and mtr(as long as it's to fast).---this can give you the option of the carriage returning faster than it feeds, as i expect your belt feed does.
as someone said earlier, you should use a motor spool in your valve to relieve jerkiness and allow younto freewheel your carriage
if you want you can phone me at 250 692 3002--after a few questions we can sort it out in no time, then you can post what you did on the forum

brian

[bandmiller2]

Dave,when I built my bandmill I used hydraulic feed,a simple drum mounted right on the motor shaft,but for your application better to chain drive due to the stresses.Best to figure the speed you want for gig back then use a speed control for feed.The control I used has a needle valve feed adjust and a check valve giving you full speed gig back.Mount it next to the motor spool valve and if you start to drag down in the cut simple to slow the feed.Looks like you have a heavy truck diesel,for most you can get a flange mount hyd. pump intended for power steering that will do the trick.The hydraulic system also gives you the option of outher log handling devices.Keep us posted Frank C.

[Dave_]

Thanks again guys for the great input!

[captain_crunch]

Dave not a good pic But my valve is a rotary valve works in and out like reg valve but must have some kind of coarse thread internaly rotateing lever moves spool in and out but has infinite speed control

In the pic is is set to run carrage ahead and that looks to be at about 2/3 speed

Also thanks for the Bellsaw link gonna have to look at it closer
Brian

[argyle1]

hi Dave
I sent you a long winded reply early this am and just now when I checked, i see it didn't post---there's a few questions need to be answered on your hydraulic drive plan(like what you have for a pump, and how are you driving it). I have put hyd drives, setworks, and dogs on several small head rig sawmills. If you want you can phone me most evenings around 8 bc time (250 692 3002), and we can discuss it. You should be able to pick up everything close by fairly cheap, if you use a hydraulic shop it'll cost a lot
cheers
Brian