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Author Topic: Board and Batten  (Read 1798 times)

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Offline hemlock man

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Board and Batten
« on: August 11, 2014, 07:47:06 PM »
Hi Folks. I purchased some 1x8 rough cut pine siding boards and when I picked up the boards I was asked if jointer. Well I don't, and I realized why I was asked this question. while going through the siding I noticed the boards are not exactly 8'' over the entire length. up to 1/2'' difference on some boards.
How much will this effect my lay out? My approach is to choose the straightest side to use my level on. The spacing between the boards will not be consistent and the reveal will not be consistent but I wouldn't think it would be that noticeable.

is this standard procedure? am I asking for trouble?

Offline Dave Shepard

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2014, 09:29:47 PM »
Make your batten wide enough to cover the gap. Is it a taper from one end to the other, or are the boards wavy?
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Offline hemlock man

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2014, 07:10:06 AM »
Its a taper from one end to the other.

Online Magicman

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2014, 09:11:32 AM »
That is pitiful sawing.   :-\

Sounds like you will be alternating top/bottom.   ;D
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Offline beenthere

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2014, 10:49:27 AM »
Joint or rip one edge straight on a jointer or a table saw.
Then rip them all to the same width end to end, and cover with battens that are also ripped to the same width.
The reveal will be straight.
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Offline hemlock man

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2014, 12:29:20 PM »
thanks for the responses. wasnt expecting this to be a problem coming from the mill.

another question. on 8 inch boards is two nails (at the header, nailer and rim joist) sufficient? i was going to only use 1 nail in the center of the batten and not nail through the siding. I've heard different opinions on this. I'm using green wood.

Offline danreed76

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2014, 12:56:25 PM »
My experience with yellow pine, I put one nail on center on both the boards and battens.  After the boards have had some time to stabilize acclimate (or when I finally remember), I'll go back and put another nail or two in each location.

When I put my toolshed up I used two nails at each location and the tops and bottoms of the boards split horribly in several places.  Those were a pain to replace after the girts (also put up green) had dried around the ring shank nails.

I also try to put the board up so it will cup toward the building, the nail in the center can typically hold it flat.  If it cups away from the building, it's a lost cause (my experience).
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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2014, 07:15:49 PM »
I would have one or preferably two purlings to nail to, and yes center nailing will do OK.  Put the smile outward on the boards.  In other words, the side of the board that was closest to the log's center (pith).  The side of the board that was closest to the bark goes in.  This will insure that the board will cup inward as "danreed76" described above.
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Offline timberwrestler

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2014, 08:50:43 PM »
I disagree on the re-ripping.  That's a lot of work.  If you're type A go for it.  You won't see the taper over a board that wide.  And if you really were type A, you wouldn't be putting B&B on.

There's no way I wouldn't nail the board.  I've never had problems with splitting, but you can always move the nails closer together.

Offline hemlock man

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2014, 01:42:04 PM »
Ripping each board is a lot of work. This is just a tool shed, nothing fancy. Im planning on leveling one side and it is what is for the spacing beyween the boards. It will be covered with the batten.

Offline Jim_Rogers

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2014, 04:27:37 PM »
I noticed the boards are not exactly 8'' over the entire length. up to 1/2'' difference on some boards.

That sawyer needs a lesson in checking his own work. Have you pointed out these things to him?

Jim Rogers
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Offline ljmathias

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Re: Board and Batten
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2014, 07:10:54 AM »
Have you considered lap siding?  Intuitively, it seems to me it would shed water better than board and batten.  Houses I've constructed lately have lap siding on the bottom 8' using live edge wood- even some taper would not show with this approach- and then board and batten for the gable ends for contrast.  Overhang from the roof protects that B&B area so water shed is not as crucial.  Over the years I've come to realize that water intrusion is one of the most damaging environmental affects possible, second only to carpenter bees which will eat an entire uncoated house in a matter of years.  Oh, and don't forget to house wrap under the siding with good quality air breathable plastic, then tape all the seams, tape and seal around all windows and doors, use good flashing over the window and door openings, and caulk... don't ask how I know this is so important.

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