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Stihl clutch locked up,

Started by bama20a, September 06, 2015, 11:09:23 AM

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bama20a

I have a stihl saw that hasn't been used much,Starts up good,but the clutch is locked.Was looking to take apart,but not sure how it comes apart & didn't want to force anything.Are they any thing I need to know about taking it apart or maybe a vid-on it ?
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

beenthere

Maybe help to say which Stihl saw model you have.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bama20a

Quote from: beenthere on September 06, 2015, 11:15:43 AM
Maybe help to say which Stihl saw model you have.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention,It's an 021.
It is better to ask forgiveness than permission

Al_Smith

According to the illustrated parts list it has an E clip and a washer.Remove same and with a little bit of effort the drum should come off .

Might have broken a clutch spring or a shoe.Left hand threads on the clutch spider.

After thought :If you need to remove the clutch assembley best to remove the recoil starter .Reason being if you force it backwards you take a chance of damaging the starter pawls.Block the piston by stuffing some starter rope though the sparkplug hole .Works better than a piston stop .

ktowne030311

http://www.smaf-touseau.com/fr/eclates-tronconneuses-thermiques

I posted that link in a thread I started a while back, which I though should be a sticky..... it has ALL ipls for 010av all the way to the ms880. It is in german, however navigating the site is a breeze. And when you click on the link you want, it comes up in english, deutsch, and spanish
McCulloch 5-49, Ms290/390 frankenstein, 030av, 051av

Dixon700

On both my old 034 I had and my ms460 I just used an impact. Held the flywheel with my hand and as soon as you hit the flywheel with the impact it comes right loose. Is this a bad practice or something?
Ms 460 mag 25" b/c muffler modded 010av  14" b/c
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sawguy21

It's ok to remove it that way but it should be tightened by hand ideally with a torque wrench.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Dixon700

I just tighten it up with my flex 3/8" ratchet that's longer than the average ratchet and run the crap out of it. I've never had a clutch come off and I've never even known the torque spec otherwise used it... it's been all German torque specs on all of my saws. Gudntite
Ms 460 mag 25" b/c muffler modded 010av  14" b/c
94 case 580sk 04.5 ram 2500

limbwood

be carefull not to hammer on it to much with a impact gun, the key in the flywheel is made into flywheel and can be sheared off real easy dont ask how I know this.

sawguy21

I had one come off, never did find the springs.  ::)
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Al_Smith

 :D I had one come loose once on a McCulloch and shoot down my driveway about 100 MPH .Clutch never left the drum,it was okay after I found it about 200 feet away .

Just tighten it up and  put a bar and chain on . As such it will self tighten .They come off otherwise with no bar and chain as the engine is decelerating

sablatnic

With a bit of luck you will not have to unscrew the clutch, but only the drum. Check the bearing, it can be filled up with grass or string. I have often changed the clutch spring without removing the clutch.

I have made the disappearing clutch act too - it went up in the sky till I couldn't see it any more - never found it!!

CTYank

Yup. Never run a saw with the clutch on the crankshaft, without the drum in place.

I'm betting that if the clutch is "locked" vice dragging, the bearing is rusted in place. Chrysler used to make "manifold heat control valve solvent" aka "the blue stuff" that could probably loosen that up in minutes. If all else, a REASONABLE amount of heat in the area of the bearing and some penetrating oil might help. Here's hoping that the bearing surface on the crank is salvageable. Anybody taking my bet?

With an inboard clutch, you should spot that real quick when you try to remove the drum.

Good Luck.
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beenthere

Quote from: CTYank on September 10, 2015, 12:12:07 PM
Yup. Never run a saw with the clutch on the crankshaft, without the drum in place.

I'm betting that if the clutch is "locked" vice dragging, the bearing is rusted in place. Chrysler used to make "manifold heat control valve solvent" aka "the blue stuff" that could probably loosen that up in minutes. If all else, a REASONABLE amount of heat in the area of the bearing and some penetrating oil might help. Here's hoping that the bearing surface on the crank is salvageable. Anybody taking my bet?

With an inboard clutch, you should spot that real quick when you try to remove the drum.

Good Luck.

The right stuff is called Blue Creeper

See this sponsors logo on the left column. Best penetrating oil you will ever lay your hands on...
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Dixon700

Quote from: limbwood on September 07, 2015, 03:37:02 PM
be carefull not to hammer on it to much with a impact gun, the key in the flywheel is made into flywheel and can be sheared off real easy dont ask how I know this.
With my craftsman air impact or my milwaukee 1/2" cordless as soon as I hit the button a clutch comes right off, with pretty much no hammering.



Until this forum I've never heard of blue creeper. For years I used pb blaster and then about a year ago a friend turned me onto acetone and atf in a 50/50 mix and it seems to work better than any other penetrant I've used.
Ms 460 mag 25" b/c muffler modded 010av  14" b/c
94 case 580sk 04.5 ram 2500

sawguy21

I think he was referring to overdoing it while installing, it would be easy to do. I'll pass on your penetrant, I can't handle acetone fumes.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

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