iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Standard shingles Vs Metal Roofs

Started by MichaelMPerez, November 25, 2016, 02:28:09 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Al_Smith

Aluminum fibered roof coating .It has to be stirred .I use a thing like a little boat motor  propeller with a 1/2" drill motor .Applied with a soft bristle roof brush .When it's brushed on you only go in one direction .

This stuff is sold by the amount of aluminum in the mix from what they tell me .Higher the content the better it's suppossed to be .Higher the price also .

4x4American

Thanks Don.  Most of the old barns here are post and beam and are real heavy built prolly with American Chestnut
Boy, back in my day..

Czech_Made

I replaced the barn roof with MasterRib (screw on) metal panels.  Easy on and works great.




Al_Smith

I have about 12 to 14000 square feet of 22 gauge Steelox standing seam I acquired. Concealed fasteners ,needs a power seam closure .Didn't have one so I made one .

Must have taken me a couple of weeks to do it .Uses a  Milwaukee 1/2" right angle drill for a power source .Works fine ,probably as well as a commercially built one to the tune of 3 grand give or take .

This stuff is painted "galvalume",when Armco made it they had a 40 year warranty on the paint and panels .It's under a different ownership  now in Mason Ohio .

Al_Smith

A lot of these old farm houses in this area are over 100 years old .Some were roofed with hand formed standing seam .If it was installed properly and recoated on a regular bassis that stuff is still good after all these years .Most of the slate or tiled roofs are no longer even seen in this area although there were a few at one time .

Every so often at farm auctions the slate tools come up for sale,cutter and punches.If I recall from the old timers they used copper nails on this stuff .

Copper standing seam you only see on gov. buildings and churches .That stuff will last  forever but few could afford it

MichaelMPerez

Quote from: jwilly3879 on November 25, 2016, 08:05:47 AM
As a contractor I have installed both shingles and screw down metal roofing. If the roof has valleys I prefer shingles because they are easier to install. With metal the detailing in the valley is very critical. Additionally with metal roofing , in my area snow sliding is a major concern. The snow will accumulate in the valleys as it slides down the adjoining roofs which can lead to meltwater backing up. With proper installation this will not create leaks but one small puncture in the underlayment is trouble. Another concern in snow areas is large amounts of snow sliding off the roof which can create safety hazards.
I am thinking of metal roofing considering its energy efficiency and cooling ability. Would like to get a cost estimate from experts in this regard. Which would be a cheaper option? And I would like to thank all who have come up with valuable suggestions.

MikeON

The metal roof on my garage, installed in 2004, is developing surface rust on the lower edge, where the panels were cut to length.  The rusting area extends about 1/2" from the edge, the whole way around the building.  I plan to touch it up with Rustoleum before it gets worse.  Might have been better if the installers had put the cut edge up under the ridge vent.  But then maybe it would rust anyway and I wouldn't have seen it.
Woodmizer LT40HD Super.  WM Single Blade Edger,  John Deere 4310 tractor, M35A2C Deuce and a Half truck

Ox

The cut edge is supposed to go up under the flashing or ridge vent.  It'll rust a little then stop.  As long as you aren't disturbing the rust it'll stay that way for decades.  If the cut edge has to be exposed, it's supposed to be painted immediately after the cut.  If you try to paint over the rust, it'll just fail after awhile.  Your problem sounds like a pain.  I guess I'd call the installer and bring them out and point it out and ask for opinions.

Maybe spray some rust converter on first, then paint? 
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Al_Smith

FWIW in case nobody knows it you can order formed roofing in any length you want ,right down to the inch or fraction.

When I was looking for roofing I visited a rolling mill in Greenfield Indiana and watched it being made .Talked to the lady who owned the business .It's  computer controlled,measures and paints in one fell swoop.Counts the sheets as it makes them .Fact my order  of decking from another place was all cut to length so there was no cutting involved on the installation .

Another thing ,some mills will get odd lots where the paint doesn't match .Those they sit aside and discount it very much in job lots of say ten or more squares .They sell it as " rainbow ".It's been 20 years ago but at that time it only fetched 12-15 bucks a square and was fine for siding .You just had to paint it if you wanted it to match .

David Freed

The pole barn company I used to work for has a dealer in NY state that buys truckloads of the rainbow at a time from them and sorts it by color before he sells it. I delivered to him every week.

MichaelMPerez

Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 10:22:31 AM
For me, steel is the way to go.  I've had nothing but problems and water intrusion with shingles.  I just had a new steel roof with 40 year warranty put on a 26 x 40 building for $2500 total.  I got a heckuva good deal, I know, but had an Amish roofer quote me $3500.  Most of the bigger roofing companies were around $4500.  For something that will last the rest of my life, I'm happy with it.

Thanks for the suggestion of steel.This idea never crossed my mind

Al_Smith

Depending upon how creative and resourchfull a person is there are a lot of options when it comes to metal roofing and siding.

For example my shop which is 60 by 70 is all sided with Wayne-Dalton rejected garage door panels .I found them in trading magazines and they sold cheaper than new metal siding at the time .I think the garage door dealers got to crying alligator tears over it and as far as I know they don't sell them any more .However if you look around you can find huge lots of metal siding on the cheap .You might have to go 500 miles to pick it up though .

Kind of funny on the panels.I had a door installer quote me 2100 bucks a door for 16 wide,14 high doors ,times 3 .I made 3 big doors,one 10 by 10 and one 16 by 7 for 2100 after I found the hardware and panels .--Al the tightwad strikes again ;)

thecfarm

MichaelMPerez,this is in my little world.
I built the wife a Garden Shed,now it's a Woman Cave.  ;D I think 12x20. I priced shingles and steel at the local lumber yard. Shingles were $25-50 cheaper. He told me that's how it would happen.
A few months later I go into a big box store. I think they was a little bit cheaper on the steel panels,but the finish pieces were A LOT higher,some was almost twice as much.  :o For the same brand too. Theses are the ridge cap and the pieces that run along the sides of the trim boards.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Peter Drouin

If you put steel over the old shingles the sun will heat the shingles. Over the years the shingles will shrink and all the tin, 2x4s, or what ever the strapping will be loose.

I see it all the time, tin over asphalt, trying to save a buck, not good.
I have tin on my house. I removed all the shingles, put down water shield. No strapping,
Put the tin on the water shield.
No leaks. 8)

The trick with valleys is to make them wide, not 6" or 8" but 12,16"
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

David Freed

Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 09, 2016, 06:33:39 AMThe trick with valleys is to make them wide, not 6" or 8" but 12,16"
I delivered a lot of valleys for GPB. I never put a tape measure to it, but they were at least 3' wide.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: David Freed on December 10, 2016, 05:27:56 AM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 09, 2016, 06:33:39 AMThe trick with valleys is to make them wide, not 6" or 8" but 12,16"
I delivered a lot of valleys for GPB. I never put a tape measure to it, but they were at least 3' wide.


Well, yeah, the tin comes 3" wide
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

David Freed

I just got back from a short run for a guy that used to be on a pole barn crew. The valleys are made from 40" wide metal. Outside legs of the "W" are 18", inside legs are 2".

Al_Smith

I've never installed valleys on a metal roof .I have however done so on shingled roofs using "ice guard "  which is around 3 feet wide . Fact being I use the stuff on all the eave sides because that portion will get the most water flow,gravity you know .I doesn't cost that much more to do it .Besides that with a 30- 40 year roof and being on the short side of 70 I won't ever have to do it again in my lifetime .

Thank You Sponsors!