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Metal Cutting Blades

Started by den, August 11, 2006, 09:10:29 AM

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den

Has anyone tried using, used metal cutting band saw blades.
You would have to cut them to length and reset the teeth.
I'm thinking if it can cut metal you wouldn't need a metal detector ;D
Dennis
Homelite SuperXL, 360, Super2, Stihl MS251CB-E, Sotz M-20 20lb. Monster Maul, Wallenstein BXM-42

Tom

But.....  You would need a lot of time to get through a log.  Metal cutting blades advancing at the speed of wood cutting blades would let the nail get below the tip of the tooth and you would probably knock teeth off of it too.

Teeth close enough together to hold the nail outside of the gullet would cut wood slowly, if at all. :)

WH_Conley

Tom beat me to it. I have a metal cutter hanging in the garage that I tried one time, it was so slow you could start a cut on a long large log and sit down to wait on it. After two cuts I took it off.

3/8 x 1.25
Bill

rewimmer

Hello Den,
Are you talking about a bandsaw mill? If so I cut old barn beams, logs from old homes, and antique woods. There is a bi-metal blade that I use that has worked well for me. You do have to take your time but the teeth are not as fine as a regular metal bandsaw.
Call: Ms. Connie Flanagan
U' Cut Enterprises,
Drawer 420
Jamesville, NY 13078
800-952-8288
They can really help you with all types of blades, resharpening and applications.

Robert in Virginia

beenthere

Welcome rewimmer

Get the 'U Cut on board as a sponsor, as 'we' like to support our sponsors best of all. They are important to the FF and its members.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Tom

bi-metal blades are made by several manufacturers.  Here again, speed of advance is one of the most critical things for salvaging blades cutting metal.   Our Sponsors sell these blades as well and their patronage is strongly recommended since they, so loyally, support the forum.  

Look to the left and you will find bandsaw blades at the links of Timberking, Wood-Mizer, Baker, Menominee and Norwood

You will also find an abundance of information as to preferences of blades here on the forum as well as from the experts at the sponsor's sites. :)

rewimmer

I posted a response to Den today and we are new to this forum. I am sorry for listing U-Cut as one of my suppliers and will speak to them soon about being a sponser on this forum. However I just spent over $26,000.00 dollars with TimberKing on my last mill and do around $5,000.00 per year with Pay Pal, which are sponsers of this forum. Do I also have to contact Lenox which is the brand of bi-metal blades I purchase from U-Cut at $58.00 each?
Just trying hard to help Den and do it right.

Robert in Virginia


beenthere

Stick with us, as we are harmless. You are doing just fine, and we're interested in hearing about your Timberking and all the etc that goes with it too.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ADfields

rewimmer
Dont take it to hard.  I dont think it was the slap on the hand that it looks like. :-\
Loads of good info and good people hear and I for one was glad to have your input! 8)
Andy

den

Thanks guys
The blades I'm referring to are what we use a work,there 1 5/8" and the teeth are 1/2" apart. The concern is,would they take the high (fast)feet per min. Would they brake easy?
Den
Homelite SuperXL, 360, Super2, Stihl MS251CB-E, Sotz M-20 20lb. Monster Maul, Wallenstein BXM-42

Chris Burchfield

With metal cutting blades, the intent is to have at least two or three teeth touching the surface to be cut. Also, metal cutting blades are used at a much slower speed. 10 to 32 teeth per inch are normal for metal cutting blades. The rate to pass through the log or cant would be so slow. I don't see where this would work without lots of coolant. Just my two cents.
Woodmizer LT40SH W/Command Control; 51HP Cat, Memphis TN.

Tom

The closer the teeth are together, "pitch", the more horsepower it takes to drive the blade.  There are other tooth configurations that make a blade a good wood blade, like rake, tooth height, gullet shape, etc.  Your blade might cut wood, but the chances of it doing a good job are "iffy".

Most band mill blades start at 3/4 pitch.  The standard in the industry has become 7/8", though 1" is also common.  The smaller pitches are used on resaws.

The best way to find out if your blade will cut wood is to put it on a mill.  I think you will probably find that it will be too slow in wood to be a good choice.

If it does cut wood fast, then the speed will be enough that the metal may get inside of the gullet.  If the face of the tooth captures the metal instead of the tip of the tooth, then shearing of teeth will occur.  

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