6-Month review of LT15(S) and moving to LT40?

[WDFL]

Got my LT15 Start last summer, added the "Go" trailer, and have been making boards.    It's enjoyable and has brought out many "friends" I didn't know I had who want wood products.  

I already have a tractor for log moving.  Wife is on me to find some rural ag land to hunt and harvest timber from.  

LT15 Start Thoughts
- Initial entry price got me started and I should recover most/all of it
- Working manually helps me to read the wood, learn sawmilling, and visualize the cut
- Adding the trailer makes it 10x more usable for me, and I can't imagine not having it
- I'm not a fan of the pull start, and the extra $1500 needed for Powerfeed.  
- When we picked up the mill from WM South, wife asked "Why didn't you just get one of those to start with?" (Pointing at LT35).  

Saw the WM Team at the Sunbelt AgExpo, and they were running a LT40 demo that was a sweet rig.   

Now, I'm considering moving to a LT40, for the following reasons:
- I'm 44, and I'd like to get a tool I can use for the next 25 years
- Hydraulics; I'm a 90% alone operation with no chance of that changing anytime soon
- Turn-key operation, with computer controls (Accuset)
- I believe a mill is, like a tractor, a decent store of value for the future
- There is a wide-head upgrade until the EOM and prices don't show any sign of going down

Which leads me to the same over analysis-paralysis I had when initially choosing a mill:
- Why a LT40 vs LT35?
- Should I get bed mounted, or walk along controls, and why?
- Is Accuset that much better than SimpleSetworks?
- I've pretty much decided on debarker, FAO, and Lubemizer.  

I will keep the LT15S until the new mill arrives, then sell it.   A year lead time gives me enough time to get everything lined up correctly.   

[WV Sawmiller]

   I'll throw in my 2 cents and wait for my change.

   I have and love my LT35. I see very little difference in it and would never upgrade to an LT40 - I'd go to the LT50 Wide if I changed.

   As I understand the bed/frame and hydraulics are the same so either one would handle the same log.

   I love my SimpleSet and use it religiously with a cheat sheet to maximize return with minimal effort. The Accuset has a lot more settings than the SimpleSet. One I'd use if I had it would be the blade up. If I got smart enough I'd hope to use the pattern function.

   The normal gas engine options are only one hp less on the LT35 than the LT40. I don't know why WM just doesn't standardize on one engine size. Buy as much hp as you can afford. I bought the 25 Kohler for cost savings and fear the diesel would not start in cold weather. That was likely a mistaken impression.

   The LT35 has 8.5" clearance IIRC while the LT40 has 10.5" of clearance. That would make it much easier to cut wider quartersawn lumber with the LT40 if you are interested in that.

   I think the distance between the band rollers is the same. I can really only normally cut a 23" wide board. I have cut up to 26" by pushing the log/can to overhand the rail to the left a little but that is not normal sawing. Even a couple inches wider would be nice so I could cut 2- 12" wide cants side by side although I would rarely do it.

   Band change on the LT35 is dirt simple using hinged covers while I think you have to remove the LT40 covers and set them aside. Not a big issue but ...

   The LT35 uses a single connection to hold the mast one - one cam follower bearing attaches the whole head to the rail. Replacing this bearing is not hard but if don't do it correctly you can dump the entire head with is dangerous and can be costly. (Don't ask me how I know this. :) IIRC the LT40 has 2 cam follower bearings running along the rail so while replacing one the other is there for back up. 

   I walk beside my mill because I need the exercise and I feel it gives me a little better feel for how much it is straining to help tell me when to change a dull blade or such. That is probably just me. Other sawyers no doubt do the same thing by listening to the engine, watching the sawdust and finish on the boards.

   The debarker is a must! I probably should use more lube but many woods I saw don't seem to need it - I might be better off on blade life and cut quality if I were using more. Absolutely buy the extra side supports as it makes sawing shorter logs.

   You won't go wrong with either choice but your usage and business plans will determine which is the better option. Don't overlook the LT50 wide till you decide you don't need the extra features. Keep us posted on what you decide and do.

[GAB]

WDFL:
If you order a mill that has a cat track you are limited to a 6' extension max., I have been told.
Not knowing the future, you may gravitate towards sawing long speciality timbers which would require a walk along mill or the acquisition of a ride along seat like MM uses when ever he can.
Just something to consider as it might affect resale value.
The calibration sticker on my crystall ball ran out and I can't find anybody reliable to recalibrate it for me.
GAB

[terrifictimbersllc]

Accuset2 knows how high above the bed the band is.  Simpleset does not. If Accuset has more settings – it does-it's because the pattern mode replaces the cheat sheets that are referred to by users of simple set.

Accuset2 on a LT40 super/ LT50 Takes the head to the correct height position extremely quickly compared to "bumping it there" otherwise with the height control.

LT40 super has more powerful feed and up-down motors, as well as faster hydraulics. It introduces the potential for meaningful board return assistance, and can accommodate a heavier engine.

The removable doors on the 40 and 50 have a plus side in that when they are removed they are not in the way. ive found hinged doors can be unpleasant sometimes, although overall I'd say they are a plus.

I've had both a 40 super and a 70 super. IMO the 40 super is the sweet spot in the Woodmizer lineup, the 50 can be regarded as a several feature buy up from it.

I have been 100% portable for about 20 years.Both of my sawmills have been front remotes. I've only sawn on a few boards on a walk along mill. But as I stand in front of my sawmill to finish cutting a cant into 20 boards with 19 passes,  there is some advantage to not walking down and back for every one of these.  And not being bundled up in any more PPE than i already am, would i be nearer to the noise and dust.

[SawyerTed]

Which leads me to the same over analysis-paralysis I had when initially choosing a mill:
- Why a LT40 vs LT35?
- Should I get bed mounted, or walk along controls, and why?
- Is Accuset that much better than SimpleSetworks?
- I've pretty much decided on debarker, FAO, and Lubemizer.  

I will keep the LT15S until the new mill arrives, then sell it.   A year lead time gives me enough time to get everything lined up correctly.  

Why the LT 40 over 35?
The difference between the 35 Hydraulic and 40 Hydraulic is not much.
The difference between the 35 Hydraulic and the 40 Super Hydraulic is much bigger. The 40 Super offers more hp, Accuset2, board return, much faster hydraulics.  I agree 40 Super is the sweet spot of portability, features and production.  Either way, 40 of 40 Super Hydraulic, get the highest hp engine you can afford.  If I had to choose between an engine upgrade and FAOs and Lubemizer, I'd get the hp.  

Walk With or Command Control?
I'm a Command Control advocate.  After 4 years of the debarker throwing stuff at me, the wind blowing sawdust into places I never knew sawdust could go and filling my pockets with sawdust, I'm ready to have stationary controls.  Add in the board return of the 40 Super and (as Southside and Yellowhammer mentioned in the other thread) you have a one man productivity boost.  

Is Accuset2 better than Simpleset?
Better?  Depends on what you think better is.  Accuset 2 has more features and programmability but all that's useless if not used.  When used the Accuset2 speeds up the sawing and is more accurate than Simpleset and a cheat sheet.  I've only used Accuset2 once but it is far more capable than Simpleset.

Buy the most mill you can.  I showed my wife the LT15 and an LT35, she said get the 35.   I should have showed her the 15 and the 50! :D

[SawyerTed]

Wide is not available on the 35....

[KWH]

How did you get her to move up to LT50?

[Resonator]

My thoughts...

I'm going into my 6th year of owning a LT28, which is the in between mill of the LT15 and LT35. Agree with all you said on your LT15, mine has paid for itself a few times over in business revenue since I've owned it. Having a trailer is great if nothing else just to be able to move it around my property where logs are stacked, along with going to occasional portable jobs. And yes, you learn all the basics up close running a manual mill, and the labor involved will make you appreciate hydraulics all the more.

Having said that, my intentions (and still are) to get a LT40 hydraulic. Still optimistic the business situation will improve. 
Difference between a LT35 and a LT40? Answer: hobby vs commercial. How much sawing do you want to do? Each bigger - faster - stronger mill is a move up the food chain in board footage capability and price. If you can justify the initial investment, it can pay for itself, and have a high resale value.

[SawyerTed]

I sawed successfully for four years with the LT35.  It paid for itself, sharpening equipment and all blades and maintenance.  In addition, I made a respectable profit each year.  When I sold, it went for more than new.  

When we discussed upgrading, I ran the numbers with a moderate increase in production (2/3 Woodmizer's hourly production for the 50).  In round numbers the 35 was averaging 250 to 300 board feet per hour.   I figured I could make an average of 400 or 450 with the 50.  Woodmizer says 700 board feet per hour. 

Basically, I wrote a mini-business plan on how the 50 would pay for itself in 12-18 months along with the other operating expenses (including my wages).  The 35 did better than 12 months payback. 

One of the other things that convinced her is my son and DIL are planning on building a house.   He wants to mill his flooring, moldings and materials for cabinet faces.  We are going to start cutting logs the end of January.  

The final thing was watching Yellowhammer's video with his wife helping at the milll.  My wife enjoys working around the mill.  Once she saw the slabs dragging back and boards dropping on the table for stacking she was convinced.

[WV Sawmiller]

Ted,

  A comment on the production numbers. I am confident the mills will consistently cut the kind of numbers you list but unless you are sawing in a stationary environment with good trained help and support equipment I think the higher numbers will be hard to achieve. Not because of the machine but because of the time it is going to take your helpers to unload, load, and general cleanup associated with the milling. I have met and bettered those numbers many times with good wood, a well laid out site and good help but normally it is less. I've sawed about 240,000 bf and am averaging about 184 bf/hr comparing production to the engine hours on the mill and there are many more hours not included in set up, breakdown, etc.

  I am lucky - I was going to buy a manual mill and my wife and neighbors talked me into buying the hydraulic mill and I probably would have quit after the first year or two if I'd bought the manual mill.

  I had never run a mill or even seen one in operation till Tyler brought mine up from WM North Carolina. Maintenance is on-going but the mills are well designed and WM provides good customer support.

[Crossroads]

The plus or minus (depending on how you look at it) to having a year to make changes. You also have a year to change your order. I put my name in the hat last January for an Lt70w and fortunately got in before the price increase. Then realized the 70 might not be the right mill for my business model. So, I changed my order to an Lt40w super. Then after talking to a few guys who have used the chain turner and envisioning a chain turner in place of my claw turner. I called and changed my order to the 50w. Enjoy the process, it's half the fun of buying a new mill. 

[SawyerTed]

Howard,

The biggest factor in hitting a higher average is log quality.   Four or five 16-20" SED 12' good quality logs doesn't take long to hit 1 MBFT.  In logs like that getting 200 bdft plus an hour is very doable. 

I quit putting up with crappy logs, poor help and lack of proper log handling equipment.  Once I got customers to take responsibility for the log quality, quality help and log staging, production jumped up.  I can't count how many times a customer has said "I'm glad you made me (fill in the blank).  It really made a big difference" at the end of the day.  I've made customers call for more help in a couple of occasions. 

That's all stuff the experienced sawyers here said would be determining factors in production and profit from the very beginning. 

Now if I went back and averaged over the 4 years, I suspect my numbers would be lower.  But the last 2 years of sawing with LT 35 was easily over 200 bdft per hour.

With the board return, higher hp and faster hydraulics, I believe 400 plus an hour is doable with the LT 50.  I have plans for a portable lumber and slab handling setup similar to Yellowhammer's.

[WV Sawmiller]

Ted,

   Very good point on the log quality. I am too easy too often and will saw a 6-7 inch diameter "log" for a customer who wants a 4X4 from it. I advise I have a different rate for such work but I very seldom apply it if it is only a log or two in a decent whack of logs and it is a nice customer. Then again, I am mostly a cost neutral hobby to keep me occupied and meet people and less than depending on it for a living.

   Same with the help - I am usually sawing for a "neighbor" although I have often never met them before. Lots of time it is someone older than me who is my customer and my helper and I end up helping him with the stacking and heavier slabs.

[SawyerTed]

I've learned, I'm not always doing my customers favors by sawing those skinny logs into 4x4s or 4x6s.   

[WDFL]

I'm impressed at the quality of replies, though given the wealth of experience here, I shouldn't be.

Very much looking into a LT40 Hydraulic, not a Super Hydraulic as that's a budget buster.   I picked the 40 as it has the wide head option, and I don't want to get the LT35 and then a few years down the road be in the same position as now.

Some things:
Definitely looking at the 38-HP option.  
Accuset2 (for $1k difference, why not?)
Command Control (bed mounted controls, not saw head mounted). 

What I saw at the AgExpo is exactly what I am shooting to get. 

However, I'm still working out my use cases.  

[SawyerTed]

The 40 Hydraulic WILL saw lots of fine lumber.  It will make more slabs and sawdust than you'll want to manage. And you can make money with it if you want.  Nothing shabby about an LT40. 

Just be aware of the unwritten rule that forum members may indiscriminately spend another member's money.   :D :D  We strictly follow this rule when given a chance.  :D :D

[dbroswoods]

I've had a 40 Hydraulic since 2018 the 2 thing's the sales person talked me out of  were the FAO and the 38 hp motor and I wish I had spent the extra couple thousand dollars and had these two items on my mill.

Mark 

[YellowHammer]

I started with an LT15.  

Then we sawed a lot of lumber and got our business going with an LT40.  Very reliable mill.  

[Southside]

I use the pattern mode on my Super 70 all the time.  Often I will use the drop down for two faces and pattern after I have the cant to target size.  My 35 has simple set, and yes that's nice, but pattern mode really improves production.  If Accuset II has temporary set values like my 70 does then you will find those to be invaluable.  

[Crossroads]

If there is an option that you think you want, it is about 30% cheaper to order it with the mill and have WM install it. Compared to buying it later and installing it yourself. 

[stavebuyer]

Hydraulic mills are very nice. They also are expensive. They can be an excellent investment if you are using them to run a business or have an ancillary business that could use the tax savings to pay for it rather than send the money to DC. If its mostly a hobby or "want" then it would be wise to compare the return of a $40K investment in a CD at 4.75% or an index fund at 8%. If you are going to roll your own flooring and trim, you could easily spend $100k by the time you include the means to dry and machine green lumber into "buildable" lumber. Hard to justify for occasional use. 

Better returns on machines to dry and process. Keep your LT15 and build a solar kiln and order a decent planer-molder. Replace and upgrade when you can't meet the demand.

[OlJarhead]

I constantly run 250 to 350 bfh on my LT40 and have milled over 500.  However not alone.

I started with the LT10 2011-2916 and moved to the LT40 Feb 2016.

The LT35 is kinda like and LT40lite.  It's a lighter mast slightly narrower throat etc.  It is not equal to the 40.  

I can mill 27.5" wide if I push over the side supports (done it many many times) can mill 23.5" if I don't.

It can take the bigger motors (38hps) because of the mast though not quite the biggest. 

I paid mine off in 13 months!  .aybe today's prices would. ake that harder but selling the 15 should cover a lot and you'll have cut enough to feel confident doing it.

If it were me, I'd go wide and more hp but anything else is a nice to have if money is no object.  Many hear have run standard 40s for years successfully;)

Oh and I'm not sure the 35 can run 1.5" bands which I think is a game changer.

There's my 2c 😉

[caveman]

The Accuset II is worth having if it is in the budget and available on the mill you are seeking to purchase.  What's so good about it?
1.  You can program the kerf thickness (determined by blade thickness and amount of tooth set)
2.  When want to saw at an inch mark, get it within 1/2" and hit the down arrow and it will go there.  Ie.  12 7/16", hit the down arrow and it automatically sets the blade 12" above the saw bed.
3.  Auto up and down.  We use down a when on the opening faces of the log.  Up gets used mostly at the end of the bottom cut to move the head to say 20" as the carriage is moving back to the tongue end of the mill.  This is so another log can quickly be rolled onto the mill.
4.  16 programmable thicknesses are available in pattern mode.  This sets the saw blade at the right height above the bed to end up with the proper thickness board on the bottom.  If you have an odd thickness for a particular job, it is easy to change in settings and if you don't hit "save save", it will revert to your previous settings when you turn off the mill.  We have one pattern setting set for checking the blade with the BGAT and a square.  This is done at just about every blade change and before each day of sawing.

WDFL, you are not too far away from us.  Stop in one day and say hello.

[OlJarhead]

One question that often comes up on my channel and I thought I'd share here is whether or not you can run 1.5" bands on an LT35?

The answer according to WM is that while you could run them, both mills really lack the power to utilize them though perhaps the 25hp LT35 would be ok but also that they are much harder to get on and off then an LT40.

I think this is another good point in the difference between the LT35 and LT40.  I run 1.5" bands (as many do) on my LT40 without issue.  In fact I think they are much better and I'm converting over to them exclusively -- and once all I have are 1.5"s I'll change out the guide rollers too so I can get even better results from them (from what I've been told here and by WM).

So, LT35 vs LT40?  The LT40 is definitely a step up IMO.

[summit154]

I suggest getting the walk behind controls along with the wireless remote. I use the remote 99% of the time and it is incredibly handy.

[Durf700]

I started out with an LT 15 used mill.  I built a trailer for it before I ever milled a board with it.  I also built a log turner and log clamp that were winch powered that helped tremendously.  I started milling mid March of 2020 with the mill during covid for my pole barn build.  I milled all my barn lumber including rafters and 6x6's the first month I had the manual mill.  I spent the next 2 months milling for people that wanted lumber since we were shut down at work from Covid.  that short period of time I saved about 20k in lumber for my barn build and sold about 15k worth of lumber to customers off my logs from my property where we cleared for a home.  I saw a great deal in June on FB on an 8 month old LT 35 HDG and pulled the trigger on it.  I was able to get 100 % of my money back on the used LT 15 I started with in about 8 hours on FB classifieds.  so I was able to purchase the 8 month old LT 35 with my profits and selling the LT 15 literally the next day.  I then milled the rest of the year on my 1 day off per week and was able to make about 15k or so in 2020.  I think I did about the same in 2021 milling part time on my day off.  long story short, if you are unsure of spending the extra money on an LT 40 or bigger, the LT 35 has been a very good mill for me.  it all just depends on how many hours per week or month your planning on using it. 

I would never mill again without hydraulics!!  for sure.. lol

i'm sure you will be happy with all of them, just figure out how often you will run it for resale work and work the numbers.   bigger is usually better..  everyone else has given great advice so far on here as well.  all very honest reviews.

[WDFL]

Thanks to all for the comments and feedback.
We're all lucky to have such great equipment.
Will keep you appraised on what I decide to do and when; I'd wait a year or two, but with the price increases they're largely making a significant upgrade even more unaffordable.  

[WDFL]

Lots has happened since last post in this thread, mainly:
- A good time up at Jake's - education and meeting quite a few of you fine folks
- I purchased 30 acres of longleaf pine natural growth - havested back in 2004.   A few acres of oaks as well.

Now, I am learning to play forester and part of my experience will be to maximize the tree growth, thin some of the smaller trees, and mill some of them for barn lumber.

After talking with Mr. Collins today at th AgExpo, I placed an order for an LT-40 Wide, 38HP Gas, debarker, extra hydraulic side supports, and SimpleSet.  We talked through the options and I *think* it makes the most sense for me at this point.

I almost went LT50, but just couldn't get over the $10k difference hump

Now the 48-week wait starts!

[John S]

I have the mill that you ordered, if you will be mobile, I suggest the Fine Adjust Outriggers.  Also, I highly recommend Accuset 2.  My previous mill had Simple Set, no comparison to Accuset.  Good luck!

[Magicman]

Since we are spending his $$, I would also recommend a Super, Wide, and with a Diesel engine.  Of course it would also have an operator's seat.

I am 100% portable and those 6 options would not be luxuries, they would be necessities.  ;D

[terrifictimbersllc]

I think we got him back to the LT50 wide, diesel, with Accuset 2. May i suggest front remote, carriage cover, and spare tire too.

[Southside]

Just my $0.02, and your dollars  :D, just pull the band-aid off and get the Super 70.   :D

[WDFL]

I have the mill that you ordered, if you will be mobile, I suggest the Fine Adjust Outriggers.  Also, I highly recommend Accuset 2.  My previous mill had Simple Set, no comparison to Accuset.  Good luck!

We specifically discussed both of these options while ordering.    The thoughts were
1- FAO - Not worth it on sand, as mill kind of settles in.  on concrete yes.  Since I work in sand it was a no.
2. Accuset 2 - I Am still torn on this one.   It was suggested that SimpleSet will be easiest since the mill will be an occasional use item.   I understand there are 16 patterns available with AS, and I'm a computer guy a comfortable with the programming, but is it worth the $2200?   
I'm all ears to a logical argument why I should buy the FAO and AS.

[SawyerTed]

If I were to pick one or the other, Accuset 2 would be my choice.  

I like the FAOs, if one sinks a little a few rounds on the nut firms things back up.  Sinking is a bit of a hassle with the regular outriggers.  A ix6 under the feet is an easy fix.  The problem is being between the manual outrigger holes.  Honestly, the manual outriggers were faster for me to setup.   

BUT Accuset 2 makes sawing faster, very little figuring in your head is necessary.  It  eliminates many errors.   Learning how to use it isn't necessarily intuitive but it's not difficult.  Leave your cheat sheets in the truck. 

 

[Southside]

In all seriousness I would agree with Ted.  Simpleset is a good setworks, but Accuset II will serve you better.  

[terrifictimbersllc]

FAOs are always below the blade.
Cutting long, 14-20' , have to keep mill rail straight, ends drooping causes same for beams/cants, FAO makes adjusting easy.

Accuset2, just my opinion but in this day a sawmill with setworks ought to know where the bed is.

[Old Greenhorn]

Sand comes in different consistencies around the country. Sand on Long Island (NY) can be like a soupy quagmire, but sand in TX or GA can be hard as a rock. Cut some foot square pieces of 3/4 plywood and throw that under each foot. It works miracles. FAO's for mobile are pretty much a no-brainer.
 Same with the accuset II, once you learn it it helps you zip through the work and the pre-programs allow you to tailor it for your common work with no fiddling. A huge timesaver. Like Ted said, you can leave your cheat sheets in the truck. I call that a no-brainer too. Save a few bucks now and you will be paying for it in all the years to come.

[Magicman]

I am 100% portable and see many different soils, including sand.  With soft conditions such as sand, a 2X10 X2' must must be used and I always carry 6.  I removed the standard outriggers and added the FAO's because of this.  terrific mentioned in Reply#35 above, the outriggers are always below the bed rails, so no digging in to get a standard outrigger below the bed rails.

In my mind, there is no question about either option....get both.

[YellowHammer]

Simplest is an open reference, you can set it to the top of the log, the top of the cant, etc.  That's handy but...

Accuset can do the same, it's called Auto Down mode.  However, Accuset also has pattern mode, which is so much more than just sawing "patterns."  It is in a system that is always referenced to the bed of the mill, and always knows where the saw head is in relation to that.  

So firstly, you will never have another miscut "dog board" or lowest board on the mill.  For example, I have pattern #1 set to 1-1/8" and so if I want to cut all the boards to that thickness, I don't have to calculate the height of the head on a 25" tall cant, I simply hit the button for Pattern 1 and the mill goes to the correct height, including the saw kerf and I know that when I get to the dogboard, it will be right on the money.  

Anyway, that's just 1 of a dozen examples of how good it is.    

[SawyerTed]

The Accuset 2 feature I like best in Pattern Mode is setting the blade close to my top cut, hit down and the setworks calculates the correct height and adjusts the blade automatically to the nearest increment to give even boards to the bed. No bumping up and down while looking at a cheat sheet.  

If done correctly Accuset 2 keeps your place when flipping the cant 180°

Another benefit is programming your cant size as the bottom board.   If your target can't is 8" and you are sawing 4/4 boards as side lumber, it will auto down with 4/4 cuts and calculate the correct height to get 4/4 boards down to 8".  No calculations in your head, no cheat sheet.  

As YH mentioned, there are dozens of ways to program it.  

[John S]

Accuset is Simple Set on steroids.  The pattern mode is amazing but I use Reference and Auto Up constantly. Auto Down is essentially Simple Set.

[customsawyer]

I don't know what the mills cost new now days but I will just throw out a number. If you are spending close to 50K on a piece of equipment and 4 or 5K more makes it a lot easier to run, then spend the extra. There is enough work involved in this business. Don't need to be making it more difficult by cutting corners on your equipment. I really enjoy spending other peoples money. I might have to run for office. :D

[GAB]

I really enjoy spending other peoples money. I might have to run for office. :D

Only if you want to increase your blood pressure.
GAB

[KenMac]

I really enjoy spending other peoples money. I might have to run for office. :D

Only if you want to increase your blood pressure.
GAB

And probably lose most of your friends!!

[Southside]

A lot of times I will toggle between auto down and pattern mode, and let the saw remember where each face is.  So I will use auto down say for 1" jacket grade lumber, working multiple faces and a reference for A and B so the saw always knows where to land after a flip.  Then when the grade drops I will toggle into pattern mode, cut off the dog board, and finish off with whatever lower grade is going to become in a hurry.  So in pine it will likely be clear flooring jacket lumber in auto down 1" then 2x stuff out of the knotty core.   

[WDFL]

I don't know what the mills cost new now days but I will just throw out a number. If you are spending close to 50K on a piece of equipment and 4 or 5K more makes it a lot easier to run, then spend the extra. There is enough work involved in this business. Don't need to be making it more difficult by cutting corners on your equipment. I really enjoy spending other peoples money. I might have to run for office. :D

You and other make a good point.  I'm adding Accuset to my order.  Even if I don't use it I'll have it.  And it's hardly no cost in the big scheme.  

[Old Greenhorn]

I'll bet a nickel that 6 weeks after you have that mill and have settled in you will realize why you got the accuset and never look back. ;D

[Stephen1]

The bigger engine on the 40wide gets you the bigger axle and frame of the 50, so you might as well get the 50 with the chain turner, wide, diesel, accuset, remote control, 
I agree with the accused for sure now,  after running the simple set, especially as I am producing more grade lumber for me to sell. 
I also agree with the walk along with remote controls especially  when you are sawing by yourself all the time. It allows you to control the head while you are sticking or pulling a board or other small chores, versus running to catch the head before it hits the end of the mill. 
I still say FAOR are only really needed on the front and back . The middle 4 are great as drop downs, but that is because I set up and take down my mill at least 100 XS a year if not more. The drop downs use less steps to raise and lower versus the FAOR. Having the ends as FAOR allows you to keep the weight on the ends of the mill where  it belongs. My mill came with FAOR on the front and back and then I added them after, in the middle 4, regret that now as I compare all the steps I need to take to set up and take down. 

[WDFL]

The bigger engine on the 40wide gets you the bigger axle and frame of the 50, so you might as well get the 50 with the chain turner, wide, diesel, accuset, remote control,

That's the whole over-thinking process I've had going on since I first started this thread.  Started with LT40, then to LT-50, then down to LT-35, and finally settled on LT-40W.
I was darn close to going with an LT50 as it's about $6500 more, configured like-for-like with the same engine.  
But realistically for my use-case a LT-35 would be fine.  I should have listened to my wife when she told me to order an LT-40 in July 2022 when picking up my LT-15 @ Newnan.  

[WDFL]

Unfortunately I'm going to have to call Newnan and cancel my LT40 build.  I had been meaning to change the order a bit (add Accuset, FAO) and then had a couple setbacks and realistically it would just be sitting around for a while so I'll let it go to someone else who is waiting on their mill.

I have been watching the book of faces and it seems like there are actually hydraulic mills available from WM Texas, and I've seen a couple pop up at Newnan too.  Plus there is suddenly a plethora of lightly used mills for sale right now, some at pretty attractive prices.    Maybe the market will be much better in 6-12 months from a purchasing standpoint.  

Anyways sucks to walk away from it especially since I ordered it with Mr. Collins and he really helped me out a number of times with configuration and planning, and he retired last year.  

[Peter Drouin]

I see more and more mills for sale. When some people see how much work it is they sell.

[Magicman]

There was never a shortage of sawmills, lumber, nor toilet tissue but there was an abundance of idiots doing panic buying and creating an artificial market.

Two years ago I declined an offer to sell my sawmill @ $55k.  Was it worth that?  No but had I sold, my sawing business would have been shut down for two years.  I easily made that $55k sawing that year so I had the $55k and still had the sawmill.  Funny thing was that I sawed that prospective buyer's logs that year.

I suspect that my sawmill's selling value today would fall somewhere in the $35-$40k range. I am seeing sawmills for sale on fb plus the usual sawmill selling websites.  I seldom see sawmills for sale here on the Forestry Forum because our members are sawing...not selling.  I actually bought my sawmill through Sawmill Exchange in 2002.