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Criterion for choosing a mill

Started by Treedroid, February 20, 2021, 12:29:53 PM

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Treedroid

Could you all direct me towards a thread that will help me decide which size mill I should get?

I have 25 acres of Douglas fir and pine.  Size of trees is 24" and smaller.  (Larger ones have earned my respect and love so I shall not cut them down:-))

I want to build projects around the property.  Not planning on  doing any other mill work.

This is a hobby thing.  So as much as I like hydraulics, for example but probably not appropriate to cut 400 2x6's a year...

I have a tractor and front end loader.

I'm also 66 7/8 years old so...I want to be mindful of what is reasonable for me to take on....

Thanks!

WV Sawmiller

    I suggest you look at the sponsors listed here on the FF. They all make good quality mills and I don't know of a one that do not have a good reputation for customer service and support. Each mill is going to have different features you may or not want. 

   Go visit other mills in your area and get a better understanding about the different features and what they could do for you so you can help decide on their value for your planned operations. Include your location and ask here and you may find there are members close by who will let you come watch and maybe help stack a board or two. :D Go visit every sawmill demo available in your area. You will learn different shortcuts and step saving tips at every one even if you do not select the same mill being demoed.

    When I was looking I stopped by the Woodmizer dealer and looked at the features and especially how hard they would be to maintain as I am not particularly mechanically inclined. I had never run or even watched a mill in operation. I found the WM to be pretty straightforward, sturdy and felt I could operate and maintain a machine I could operate and maintain.

    Don't sell the hydraulics short. You will definitely find it is more fun and possibly safer to operate. I feel the same about the electronics setworks. I am convinced they help me produce consistently better lumber. 

   Search and read through this section as this question has been asked and answered many, many time.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

arky217

Well, for 25" and smaller trees, I would suggest at least a 26" mill.
I have had a Norwood LM29 for about a year now and though I
don't have a lot of experience with bandmills, I have milled enough
to build a workshop with the lumber.

You mentioned being 66 years old. Well age does figure into it quite
a bit. I'm 75 and I am sure glad I got a mill that has an electric start engine.
Without having hydraulics, it takes me quite a while just to turn a log on the mill.
I wouldn't want the engine to run all that time and at 75, it's no little effort to
manually start the engine.

And concerning turning the logs on the mill, there's no way I can turn a 25" log
with just a cant hook, so I made a log turner using a hand winch cantilevered off of
a nearby tree. Definitely consider how you're going to turn the logs if you don't go
with hydraulics; some mills offer a hand winch as an accessory that mounts on the mill.

Arky217

farmfromkansas

I am 69, and have had a Cooks MP32 for 16 years now.  It is manual, but has electric up and down, electric feed is available, I use a winch to turn big logs, mostly because I am not strong enough to turn a big log any more.  Having a skid steer with forks also helps a lot to load the mill.  My use is also for myself mostly, but your friends will find out you have a mill and have you cut things for them.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

Walnut Beast

Quote from: Treedroid on February 20, 2021, 12:29:53 PM
Could you all direct me towards a thread that will help me decide which size mill I should get?

I have 25 acres of Douglas fir and pine.  Size of trees is 24" and smaller.  (Larger ones have earned my respect and love so I shall not cut them down:-))

I want to build projects around the property.  Not planning on  doing any other mill work.

This is a hobby thing.  So as much as I like hydraulics, for example but probably not appropriate to cut 400 2x6's a year...

I have a tractor and front end loader.

I'm also 66 7/8 years old so...I want to be mindful of what is reasonable for me to take on....

Thanks!
If you have the money then get it with hydraulics and use it and have fun, then if or when you decide to sell, it should hold its value pretty decent

firefighter ontheside

I only have experience with my LT15 Woodmizer.  It fits your description of what you're looking for.  The logs will fit easily.  It does not have hydraulics.  Power feed is an option that I might recommend.  I will be adding it to my mill this year.  Since you are not wanting to be mobile and have equipment to move logs, that can take the place of hydraulics.  The loader can be used to load logs and turn them if used carefully.  There will be manual work to be done, such as turning cants and such.  You will want at least one good cant hook.  I have a 48" one and a 72" one for the bigger logs.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

47sawdust

How about a Mobile Dimension mill or similar Mighty Mite.
No log turning.Make a lot of framing lumber and siding boards in short order.
Good re-sale value.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

SawyerTed

Horsepower, buy the most you can afford. 
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

thecfarm

Better go see other mills run. That is really the best way to see what you want or need. 
I have a manual mill. Like you, I don't need the expense of hyds just to cut a few pieces of lumber. Mu tractor will turn logs, if needed. 
How are you getting the logs out of the woods? I suppose that tractor you mentioned? What kind and hp?
Working in the woods is fun. Keep it that way.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Treedroid

Thank you all!  I really appreciate the input and encouragement !

Looks like my next step is to go look at some mills and try my hand at a couple to see for myself.  I do have one friend with a mill that will demonstrate and a woodmizer is about 4 hours away....but it's close to my grandkids so happy to take a road trip.

Thanks again!

Treedroid

Quote from: thecfarm on February 20, 2021, 09:30:50 PM
Better go see other mills run. That is really the best way to see what you want or need.
I have a manual mill. Like you, I don't need the expense of hyds just to cut a few pieces of lumber. Mu tractor will turn logs, if needed.
How are you getting the logs out of the woods? I suppose that tractor you mentioned? What kind and hp?
Working in the woods is fun. Keep it that way.  ;D
:-). I am planning on skidding with the tractor, cables, and snatch block.  Nice and careful like!  I'm planning on mounting the saw on a concrete pad with a slight ramp so I can gently nudge the logs up on the deck with the tractor.
I am currently looking at a 14 HP sequoia mill because the builder lives 15 minutes from my place.  Won't take me long to track him down if I need parts.  All the parts for the mill is locally available and it sure looks stout!

thecfarm

I have a manual mill for maybe 15 years, I have only went to my dealer once for parts, I needed a guide wheel. If the short piece of cedar would of stayed in place and not jammed up against the wheel I would not of damaged the guide wheel. Not much to go wrong on a manual mill. And probably like you will, I do not saw every week either.  ;D
I made a log brough. I sawed 2 logs flat on one side and I put my logs on them. I spaced them about 7 feet wide, so the tractor can go between them. I put them about a foot away from the mill. I lay down a piece of metal flat stock, ¼" thick, 4 inch wide and about 3 feet long to bridge the gap to roll logs onto the mill. But at least one peavey or a cantdog from Logrite, sponsor on the left, nice people. It is money well spent. That tool will last you years.
Once sawing, do something that I did not. Build just a shed for the head, where the motor is, of the mill. Keep that part out of the weather.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Nebraska

If you have a mill built 15 minutes  away, I think you would smart to stick with that. Probably  makes adding  options  or updating things later on much easier than it is for most of us. That's neighbor distance around here. Good luck with your adventure.

Treedroid

Quote from: thecfarm on February 21, 2021, 07:11:50 AM
I have a manual mill for maybe 15 years, I have only went to my dealer once for parts, I needed a guide wheel. If the short piece of cedar would of stayed in place and not jammed up against the wheel I would not of damaged the guide wheel. Not much to go wrong on a manual mill. And probably like you will, I do not saw every week either.  ;D
I made a log brough. I sawed 2 logs flat on one side and I put my logs on them. I spaced them about 7 feet wide, so the tractor can go between them. I put them about a foot away from the mill. I lay down a piece of metal flat stock, ¼" thick, 4 inch wide and about 3 feet long to bridge the gap to roll logs onto the mill. But at least one peavey or a cantdog from Logrite, sponsor on the left, nice people. It is money well spent. That tool will last you years.
Once sawing, do something that I did not. Build just a shed for the head, where the motor is, of the mill. Keep that part out of the weather.
That sounds like a great way to load the logs!  Thank you.
I think that shed idea would be great idea...plus, I'd like to keep the sun off of me poor head...

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