OI first got my feet wet with a belsaw m14. After making some decent cuts and blowing up the power unit I had. I found a good deal on a lane sawmill at auction. With cat power unit. Log deck and log turner. I got the site work completed this spring and just started putting the pieces together. I disassembled it myself after seeing it in operation. So I think I remember how it all goes back haha. I'm very green at this. Constructive criticism is greatly appreciated. Thank you guys for the info and knowledge so far!
https://youtu.be/-jktzqeLcSk (https://youtu.be/-jktzqeLcSk)
Good on you!!
get those rails true!
what do you have for power now??
Best
D
Quote from: dgdrls on May 10, 2021, 07:44:11 PM
Good on you!!
get those rails true!
what do you have for power now??
Best
D
D333a. It's a 6 cylinder cat diesel. 4.5"x5.5" cylinders iirc. Has a clutch/V belt pulley setup on it.
Well, well, well. Lane, that's my brand. And I started with a bellsaw in 1980, should not have done that but had empty pockets. So I see the V rail. Is it a green mountain or 030? I don't think it is an 036 but it could be. Hand set? What do you have for dogs? Love to know all about it and where in N.Y.
Quote from: moodnacreek on May 10, 2021, 09:29:22 PM
Well, well, well. Lane, that's my brand. And I started with a bellsaw in 1980, should not have done that but had empty pockets. So I see the V rail. Is it a green mountain or 030? I don't think it is an 036 but it could be. Hand set? What do you have for dogs? Love to know all about it and where in N.Y.
It does have a green mountain tag on track I believe. Yes hand set. And I do not have a pic of the dogs specifically. But they are cast and have "lane" on the side of them. And unfortunately I'm in the other side of the state from you. Western ny. But if you make it out this way PM me. Your more then welcome to come check out my setup and give pointers! :D
Hey good luck to you!!
Quote from: Ventryjr on May 11, 2021, 05:49:27 AM
Quote from: moodnacreek on May 10, 2021, 09:29:22 PM
Well, well, well. Lane, that's my brand. And I started with a bellsaw in 1980, should not have done that but had empty pockets. So I see the V rail. Is it a green mountain or 030? I don't think it is an 036 but it could be. Hand set? What do you have for dogs? Love to know all about it and where in N.Y.
It does have a green mountain tag on track I believe. Yes hand set. And I do not have a pic of the dogs specifically. But they are cast and have "lane" on the side of them. And unfortunately I'm in the other side of the state from you. Western ny. But if you make it out this way PM me. Your more then welcome to come check out my setup and give pointers! :D
Ok, with the green paint and V rail ; green mt. The set works and the feed are the same on all the 30" mills, 'O', tractor mill, 030 and green mt. Now you can saw with the notches in the set wheel and you will like that. If you find any old 6" leather belting save it to make your next friction. Is there a big screw dog on it? Western N.Y. is less likely to have Lane than e.n.y. New England and north eastern n,y. is loaded with them.
Quote from: Ventryjr on May 11, 2021, 05:49:27 AM
Quote from: moodnacreek on May 10, 2021, 09:29:22 PM
Well, well, well. Lane, that's my brand. And I started with a bellsaw in 1980, should not have done that but had empty pockets. So I see the V rail. Is it a green mountain or 030? I don't think it is an 036 but it could be. Hand set? What do you have for dogs? Love to know all about it and where in N.Y.
It does have a green mountain tag on track I believe. Yes hand set. And I do not have a pic of the dogs specifically. But they are cast and have "lane" on the side of them. And unfortunately I'm in the other side of the state from you. Western ny. But if you make it out this way PM me. Your more then welcome to come check out my setup and give pointers! :D
Western NY is pretty large, County??
D
Looks good mr. I too am putting together a very similar lane mill, also started with an m14 6 years ago. Looks good, I wish I had videoed like you. I'm at the same stage. Next step for me is placing the caterpillar d4400. Can't wait to see you setup in action. What was the power plant on the m14? And where did you buy this mill?
Quote from: Osterman.r on May 11, 2021, 09:38:51 PM
Looks good mr. I too am putting together a very similar lane mill, also started with an m14 6 years ago. Looks good, I wish I had videoed like you. I'm at the same stage. Next step for me is placing the caterpillar d4400. Can't wait to see you setup in action. What was the power plant on the m14? And where did you buy this mill?
Bought it from a gentleman in northern pa. And if you check out my YouTube channel you can see I had a farmall m on the belsaw first then a Chevy c3500. It was a cool saw and cut some wood with it. Got my interest sparked. Then I came across this lane mill. I just setup the belsaw in the fall.
I Need some input From some more experienced sawyers. I currently have the mill track lagged to the wood base and where ever I check the track it's either level or off very slightly. Where the bubble on my 6ft level is touching alike and not perfectly centered. So maybe off 1/8" between the 2 rails in 2 spots on the mill. Is this critical? I can loosen the lags and shim it up. Or am I better off with no shims and leave it lagged down tight to the timbers? Leaving it slightly off in 2 spots.
The previous Owner told me to get it within 1/4" of level and it will be fine. I forgot to check the level on his setup before I disassembled. Thanks in advance.
I suggest you shim the tracks and get them as level and square as you can.
an 1/8" here and there can add up to sawing frustration.
D
Neat to see lots of people putting circular mills back in action
https://youtu.be/zb7H5e1y31U (https://youtu.be/zb7H5e1y31U)
Part 2! It's coming together. I'm in the process of building a better base for the motor. Just wanted to get everything turning before I made a permanent mount. I also shimmed the rails up a bit so it's all flat. I string lined the track and it looks good.
Question to the more experienced circle mill fellas. How do you judge how fast to feed the carriage when cutting? The carriage seems to move really quickly when fully engaged. Thanks in advance!
You may judge the feed of the carriage easily by the sound of the power unit. Feed just fast enough to maintain the rpm at the governed speed. Feeding too fast risks stalling the blade, which is VERY bad. Go slow until you get the knack of listening to the mill. It will tell what is right. The carriage feed has a lot more speed than you need for sawing.
Quick comment about shimming your rails. On some mills, if you measure your rails across the guide rail to the flat rail, you'll find the guide rail is higher than the flat rail. The grooved wheel should fit over top of the guide rail. When your carriage is sitting on the track, the headblocks should be level. If you leveled using the inside track brace, you should be okay. When the headblocks are level, and the saw hangs at a 90° angle, you should be cutting square lumber.
I didn't check the wheel to head block. I'll be sure to do that. And I leveled from the bottom of the frame tubes and on the cross members.
Everything was square. Made a few cuts and produced a 2"x7.5"x16'. More like 2"x7.5" at beginning. And 2 1/16"x 7 9/16" at the end of the 16'.
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As to the feed speed question; you feed as fast as you can while maintaining a straight line and rpm. This will take some time as you have to learn to see and here trouble before it becomes a wreck. The saw must stay cold and as another member said don't sthal your saw in the log because this may dent or worse the drive pins and tighten the nut. All a no no as it may bend the stub end of the mandrel.
I fed pretty slow but I'm busting getting a hang of the friction drive. By stahl the blade do you mean that it actually stops rotating?
Quote from: Ventryjr on June 03, 2021, 06:38:37 PM
I fed pretty slow but I'm busting getting a hang of the friction drive. By stahl the blade do you mean that it actually stops rotating?
I mean don't overfeed and have the saw come to a sudden stop in the log. Many things could cause this like running out of fuel or more likely sawing into a broken log and get 'shimmed'. It's no different than a car or airplane crash, it's always that sudden stop.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57944/7CEDE524-9D53-4840-874F-95785F38FEC0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1622942710)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57944/B5D450CF-3A46-44F4-A0AF-47CF4C92B98A.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1622942683)Swapped a new set of bits onto the wheel. And produced quite a bit of straight lumber. Cut/Built a operators platform.
The wheel? You must mean the saw. Are you using the notches to saw?
Quote from: moodnacreek on June 05, 2021, 10:18:49 PM
The wheel? You must mean the saw. Are you using the notches to saw?
Yes I do mean the saw! ;D I knew wheel was the wrong term I just couldn't remember. What do you mean by notches? Sorry I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve. Thanks for the help so far!
When you have a flat side [of the log that is now a cant] up against the bunks, dogged and ready to saw off a slab, how do you know where to set? Or said another way how will you know the thickness of the last board? You would have to do the math in your head or on a cheat sheet. Every piece to be sawn has a 1/4" kerf except the last board or whatever. On a Lane you have the famous Lane setworks with the notches and they tell you where to set. Remember to add 5 when needed. They go : 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 ["] If you drop the pawl in 6 that will get you to 6" by sawing off 1" boards and so on.If you need to get 8" you use 3 because 3 and 5 is 8 . Play with it and we can talk again.
V. I probably should have said this; When you are 1 click up from a notch and all the way forward you must be 1" from the saw. [2 clicks=2", 3 clicks=3", 4 clicks=4" ,5 clicks= 5" and 6 clicks= 6" and then it starts over again. You pull all the way forward to start, that sets it up to use the clicks and notches. This is for the 1/4" pawl, the other 2 are pinned up as they are for 1/16" and 1/8" kerf and use different pin holes and should be stamped. If the setworks is not put together right non of this will work. Once you learn this you will not be able to saw lumber without it.
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I played with it all day today. Cut a bunch of mostly the right size lumber. 2x12s-2x4s. A bunch came off thick or thin due to my math ???
M. I didn't know about the notches! I'll play around next weekend and figure it out. Thank you.
Also any reason I shouldn't make a metal cover to go over the friction belt / carriage pulley area? Seems like a lot of unnecessary saw dust shooting on it.
V. I am so glad you are sawing, So many who start a circle mill give up. It does not always go easy with your first mill. The thing to do maybe to box everything on top in and have hinged doors and a way to lift the whole thing off when needed. Another project. I am also glad you are telling me you messed up some sets because we are going to fix that by learning the notches. You will be glad you have a Lane. Doug
Doug. I spent the dropping trees and loading them onto the mill. So I figured out a full stroke with the set handle cuts a 1" board so the setworks move 1-1/4" per full stroke. So after making an initial cut I would pull a "full stroke" then count the clicks back and pull forward an additional inch to cut 2x lumber. Is this the right method? I was using the scale still to double check. The majority of my boards came off correct tho. I meant to snag a picture of the setworks. Maybe next weekend ;)
I am glad all is sawing well for you!!
Quote from: Ventryjr on June 14, 2021, 05:55:14 AM
Doug. I spent the dropping trees and loading them onto the mill. So I figured out a full stroke with the set handle cuts a 1" board so the setworks move 1-1/4" per full stroke. So after making an initial cut I would pull a "full stroke" then count the clicks back and pull forward an additional inch to cut 2x lumber. Is this the right method? I was using the scale still to double check. The majority of my boards came off correct tho. I meant to snag a picture of the setworks. Maybe next weekend
You are learning faster than I did. You shoot for the numbers that you know and add or subtract clicks to get what you need. It is all based on the 1 " pull to stop [5 clicks, 1 for the kerf] Example: you need to get to 12", go to notch, which would wind up 12 1/4", and go back 1 click to get 12". If you stayed in the notch and wanted 12 1/2 you would come forward 1 click. When I was learning I would always forget the last board did not need a kerf.
On our mill which I've only run a couple of times but off beared plenty. always run by the notches and use numbered board as a guide sometimes the smaller notches (I think there 1/16) will be halfway in or whatever just set back half a click to get where you need to be and go from there. Handle just needs a little bump one way or the other just something to keep in mind. They are speedy so don't gig back so fast as to run part of the carriage off the tracks hahhah happened to me.
Once you get a handle on it they are the best set works out there imo. Very fast and accurate.
That's the extent of my knowledge on them which isn't much but congrats on the new mill!
Also on ours you can change I think it's a pin to make the full pull a few different sizes. Ours is always left at 1 1/4 like you have setup now.
What are the center pieces of each dog for? They in/out with the handle one
the back and lock in to notches. Is it for similar to a toe board on a band mill? Used for holding the log square?
Quote from: Ventryjr on June 14, 2021, 12:32:03 PM
What are the center pieces of each dog for? They in/out with the handle one
the back and lock in to notches. Is it for similar to a toe board on a band mill? Used for holding the log square?
I think you have green mt. dogs, that is the modern ones. [You should see the original ones] So you might have a dog point with notches in it to hold it when pulled out like for a log. Keep your eyes open for screw dogs or even a sawyers favorite. Doug
I do have pointed L shaped notched dogs, Doug! I am missing one tho. When I bought the mill the dog assembly was broken and only was missing the L shaped dog part. I brazed the cast pieces back together and am waiting for my plasma table to get repaired before I cut a new dog. Also need to figure out something for the sawdust. It's starting to mound up in a hurry.
https://youtu.be/Vjjm4FNDG7M (https://youtu.be/Vjjm4FNDG7M)
Everything on the mill seems to be running right except the operator ??? helpful criticisms are welcome! Thanks for all the help so far fellas!
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Everything is running pretty smooth. Just got a saw dust conveyor from a pallet company at auction. Going to need it soon. Saw dust is piling up in a hurry. Along with a mountain of slab wood. Probably cut 25 logs so far. Still getting used to the set works and cutting consistent size lumber.
congratulations on your progress so far. After watching the video of you sawing,I am wondering how the hydraulic pump is mounted on the end of the mandrel? It seemed to have an excessive amount of movement which could be a problem over time. What does the hydraulics power?
That pump must be for the live log deck and turner if there is one. It is common to shaft mount a hyd. pump or motor ridged to the shaft and chained if it only goes on way or 'wrenched' if it is reversable. This way there is no alienment issues. That mill needs a screw dog or a sawyers favorite. When the owner gets used to it and with the logs seen it will go much faster, saw alot of lumber and last a long time.
It appears the hydraulic pump was setup by the previous. It has a custom coupler to mate the mandrel and the pump shaft. It does seems to wobble a bit. I was working on plans to mount it on the frame a use a v belt. But I'm worried about the belt slipping.
And yes the pump does run the live deck and log turner. They sold at auction separately from the mill and I'm very happy I picked those up as well.
Doug, I've been keeping my eyes out for another dog to add. They seem a little hard to come by. :)
Quote from: Ventryjr on July 07, 2021, 05:58:29 AM
It appears the hydraulic pump was setup by the previous. It has a custom coupler to mate the mandrel and the pump shaft. It does seems to wobble a bit. I was working on plans to mount it on the frame a use a v belt. But I'm worried about the belt slipping.
And yes the pump does run the live deck and log turner. They sold at auction separately from the mill and I'm very happy I picked those up as well.
Doug, I've been keeping my eyes out for another dog to add. They seem a little hard to come by. :)
They are hard to find but they are out there. When I pull my carriage out [ to put the no. 1 in ] I will have 1 or 2 for sale but they will not be cheap and the forum gets a commission. A lane or chase screw dog would really help you.
I'm looking for some input, maybe @moodnacreek (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=34989) can help.
I'm looking to purchase another saw. I found a saw shop w/ a used 60" I can have delivered for ~$1200. Hammered to my rpm and new carbide bits. The gentleman at the saw shop told me it's a 8 gauge. I'm not sure what gauge I currently have. I have a 52" right now so I realize I'll have to more the blade guide and splitter. Probably adjust the lead. My current saw bits say 8/9 on them does this mean they would fit on a 8 gauge saw? Is there any reason I should avoid buying this? Thanks in advance.
And the saw has been running great. I spent all day shoveling sawdust and stickering 2x8s for the roof.
If the saw bits are the same style they will work or at least fit even if they are less kerf. A 60 " saw would want to run slower rpm because it will have more rim speed. I could use a larger saw, in fact I really need one but if i ever get the new mill in I would like to do a top saw instead. Please keep us posted on your progress.
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Got moving on a roof for the mill before the weather turns. I used larch for the posts and I'm using hemlock for the framing lumber
Now this is what I like to see! A roof over the mill not only saves it but allows you to schedule sawing for a rainy day. As I don't saw everyday I try to keep the board end clear and the next order on the log deck. If it is a nice morning with rain coming tomorrow I often work outside when I should be sawing. [why do today what you can put off until tomorrow] Now when you see and old sawmill covered with a rotten blue tarp you can make a face like I do :(.
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This green hemlock lumber is significantly heavier then I was anticipating haha.
Yes it is.
One of my friends has the same feeling.
Had full 2X8's off to the side for a month while I was sawing. My friend was much happier with the weight of the ones that was a month old. ;D
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Sorry for the crappy picture. But check out my new to me 60" head saw. Picked up from piper saw shop last week.
Quote from: Ventryjr on October 15, 2021, 05:56:55 AM
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Sorry for the crappy picture. But check out my new to me 60" head saw. Picked up from piper saw shop last week.
Based on a recent reply in the "Watcha Sawin' 2021" thread (#1346), I thought you were going to tell us that hanging new Head Saws from the ceiling keeps them in balance......
Steve
A 60" is big for a green mt. or tractor Lane. They said 54" was the largest. But other makers claimed you could do 60" on the 2 7/16" mandrel . What make and style is it? Piper's makes some of there own saws, head saws, and not many do that these days