New Shed in the Works

[WV Sawmiller]

 


The deck is done! 8) 8)

I used up my stack of unsellable but useable for this purpose maple all except 1 - 1X4X8. You can see the watermarks on a lot of it where it was stored outside under old used roofing. It is solid but stained. Today was much slower than yesterday because of the maple. I had to splice several pieces and rip to width on my table saw in some cases. Because it was so much harder than the poplar I had started with that I had to pre-drill every nail hole. I trimmed an 8' poplar 1X12 to fit around and between the poles on the right. Then I used the trimmed off wedge piece on the left to add some more space there too.

Now I need to do a good clean up of all the cut off pieces of wood and see what I can use for birdhouses, short sawhorses, or to make my LE slab shelves which was the purpose for this whole shed extension, floor/deck, etc. Then I need to do a normal 50 hour (1300 actual) service on the mill and saw some 10' 4/4 boards for siding. Before I wall in  this new bay I want to build my LE storage racks so access will be easier to build them.

I'm thinking I'll need to add doors on the front of this bay to keep the rain off the floor and LE slabs stored there. I'll check my stock but I don't think I have the heavy duty hinges and J-bolts. We have a hardware dealer who comes to our flea market with a good selection of such with good prices but Flea Market season is a couple months away. If I found a good deal on the hardware and track I could build a single sliding door but I'm betting I go with hinges and J-bolts. The heavy duty locust poles will support them. I can hang a temporary tarp till I get a door if I need to.

Today was a good day but this Covid kicked my butt and it was hard to keep on putting down one more board at a time till it was done.

[Ljohnsaw]

After you sand the floor, how many coats of tung oil do you think you will use? 
Then a good hard wax?

;)  Looking great!

[WV Sawmiller]

   Won't the wax make it hard for the White plush pile carpet the design committee specified to stick to the floor? :D :D

[Ljohnsaw]

No, you don't want carpet on the dance floor! :D

[WV Sawmiller]

 

 
That reminds me of this customer about 75 miles away. He had me come saw the timbers in this shed then when he got it in the air the wife decided it would be a great venue for their line dancing parties so he called me back on this case last year to saw some more timbers and beams for modifications and extensions as he still needed a place to store his equipment. :D

[Wlmedley]

Looks good Howard. I need to update my old lumber shed.Wood floor would be nice.

[WV Sawmiller]

Bill,

  I still have the walls, doors and racks to build but for less than 3 weeks from the start I am real happy with this and these are observations I have noted so far:

Lessons Learned:

1.   Don’t wait – if you’re going to build something build it. Assemble a reasonable list of materials and get started. You can cut or buy more materials as needed but if you wait for every piece you may need, you will never start.

2.      You can never have too many ladders – they are handy for holding up materials in place and if you have them in strategic locations you don’t have to keep moving them back and forth.

3.      Don’t forget to remove your nail apron before you go pee (I don’t know how that got in here)

4.      If building with used roofing, repair old nail holes before installation using the Tom King pop rivet process.

5.      For a gravel bed under flooring build your form work/backing to hold the gravel in place before putting the gravel down.

6.      If hauling gravel in a flat bed trailer simple sides can be quickly and effectively built using scrap 2X4’s for corners and wide 4/4 boards for side boards – the weight of the gravel will push the sideboards against the ends and sides stabilizing them.

7.      Live edge locust, or other durable wood, cut into 8/4 sleepers laid flat on plastic covered gravel works well.

8.      2”X2” strips nailed on the sleepers as “Floor joists” are easy to install using 16d nails or long screws nailed/screwed from above. (Note: Time will tell if more height and more air flow/ventilation would have improved the longevity of the floor.)

9.      A couple of pieces of roofing or a sheet of plywood makes a very good square if you need to square up one end and one side of the floor on a badly out of square structure.

10.  Running the floor all the way to the wall and out past the “joists” added significant floor space (12+ sf) in this case.

11.  Using unsellable rough boards was a great way to get some value from it and helped clear up some space and another stacking pallet.

[Old Greenhorn]

It looks great Howard, an you are going to love hearing your feet stomp on that floor. Maybe you could take up clogging and maximize the enjoyment? :D
 I missed the meeting about the carpet and the tung oil so I will stay out of that. It's come along way from what you proposed and I hope the committee got you to a better end than you originally had planned. As I recall, it was a dirt floor? Yeah, I could read back, but it's late and I'm tired. All I know is you look to be in great shape for your desired storage.

 Now lets talk about the type on insulation you are putting in the walls.......

[Ljohnsaw]

2. You can never have too many ladders – they are handy for holding up materials in place and if you have them in strategic locations you don't have to keep moving them back and forth.

Yeah.  Every time I see a free ladder on CL, I jump on it.  Rough count, Step: two 2', two 4', three 6', two 7' (combo step/extension), three 8' (one is combo), Extension: two single sections 12', one 12' (6' sections), two 24', three 20' sections (messed up my 40' extension :( - snow damage).  I'm still collecting!

[WV Sawmiller]

Tom,

   I confess I think I will get much more use out of this wood floor than I would have out of the original dirt or even the 3' pad. I have learned a lot from the process. I can still honestly say "I am no carpenter and I can prove it!"  :D

   I think the committee canceled the insulation plan because it interfered with the ventilation. :D

John,

   I picked up a 6' stepladder and a 12-14 ft extension ladder for about $10 each last year at a big yard sale. Money very well spent. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I suppose we could ditch the insulation, good ventilation makes sense. But let's talk about paint colors. I know you are partial to purple because you talk about it a lot .....

[DonW]

i suggest a celebration.

https://ia802503.us.archive.org/10/items/video_20220722/Video.MOV

[gspren]

I have 3 extension ladders, 20' 24' and 32'. the 24'er got quite a workout today with probably 20+ trips up and down to run wires on the 16' high trusses in my building. My neck is now stiff from watching the guy use it.

[WV Sawmiller]

    I started on my LE slab rack and basically have one section pretty much built now. I may add one more 30" crossbar on the outside edge of it.

    I need to either rip some stock 2X8s or go ahead and cut a few 10' 2X4s out of a poplar log I have bucked and resting in a run-off about 250 yards from the mill but first I need to drag my weary butt out there and so a service on the mill.


 

 
The rack is about 30" wide X30" deep and a little over 11' tall. It is lag screwed to the corner upright and the framing to the back wall. The 2 tall 2X4 uprights are lagged to the 2X6 rafter above which makes for a rock solid connection.

[Don P]

The design committee would sure like to see some diagonals on those walls, triangles brace things.

[WV Sawmiller]

  If you will look back at replay 193 that should give an idea what the plan for the finished wall should be. I am surprised there is any concern about strength or ricking here when you look at the size and amount of framing material used in this build.

[Don P]

Must be a new guy, I'm always saying add more  :D
Vertical and horizontal is not braced tho, triangles are... immutable.

Uhh, yeah, I just looked back, not a single brace in the building that I see.

[WV Sawmiller]

 

 

 
   Are you saying they should look like my other lumber shed or my woodshed as shown above?

[Don P]

Basically, that is best, but some single diagonal boards well attached inside between girts would work fine.  4 sides or more is flexible. When everything is vertical and horizontal the building leans over time. When you brace it into 3 sided "frames", triangles are fixed, you lock things.

[WV Sawmiller]

   I might can swing an angle or two between the girts. I think the Statute of Limitations has run out on the rest of the walls which are just battenless B&B.

[Don P]

I don't get too excited about outbuildings, you are awake and on your feet.

Important structure is a little different. A kid wrote in on another topic, thinking about going into the trade. I mentioned forging chain, he'll understand later. There is no statute of limitations. Legally there is but not really. I hear about a storm, the first thought is what have I built nearby and how did they fare. The test can be the week after I leave, or never, roll of the dice.

[WV Sawmiller]

   I finished a service on my mill today then found I did not have filters for my oil change so I' called my local dealer and should have them tomorrow or Wednesday. I resumed work on my LE slab bins and that is going real smooth.


 
I installed 7' poplar 2X4s as uprights and lag screwed them to the framing (Girts?) so they are real solid. I nailed 1X4's as cross pieces between the bins. These bins are on 2' centers and 2' deep.


 
On the short end I have 2 bins about 30" wide X 30" deep and can store 10-11 ft slabs there. I have the one odd shaped corner bin I'll use as it works out.

 I need to cut 6-7 more uprights 10' long to connect to these crosspieces. I'll tie them together with a long 1X4 on top and tie them in to a rafter or two for extra stability. Then I need to nail down some short 2X4s as shown on the bottom right to keep the slabs from kicking back when stood on end.

 Then the hard part begins - moving all the slabs from their current storge places to here. It will be an interesting inventory once that is done as I will have much better feel from what I have on hand. All this started with the sister thread below.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=121129.0

[Old Greenhorn]

Assuming you are standing those slabs up on end, and I think that's your plan, those lower struts sticking out won't support anything unless you have shorts. All the weight will land on the top struts and it can build up. ;D Also, just thinking out loud here until the rest of the committee assembles, you may want to screw some straps down to the floor so that the slabs edges will rest on those and not the floor. It promotes airflow and keeps water from wicking up if the rain blows in, also, if sawdust and junk builds up on the floor it keeps the slab edge out of that too. Any old leftovers and inch or more thick will do the job. Just a thought.
 What color purple are you gonna paint it?

[WV Sawmiller]

Tom,

   I assume what you are calling the struts are the short 1X4's nailed perpendicular to the upright 2X4s. I realize on most slabs they will not be touching. They are there to nail to the next, taller, outside upright to keep them properly spaced. I do have some 3'-4' slabs and they may rest against them. If I have too many shorties I may build a shelf across those 1X4s and reinforce under them on the uprights and stack 2 levels of them.

  I am not following the need for the "straps? on the floor. (Is that supposed to be Strips with that NY/Noggie spelling? ) I don't expect water to blow in as I will wall in the back once I am done building these bins. I have left the back open so far for access to the framing which is working great right now but I will close it in soon. 

   If you are concerned the weight of the slabs will punch a hole in that 1" poplar or maple floor I can't imagine that. The "joists are on 16" centers and even less along that back diagonal wall. I'm expecting to be storing 8' or less slabs along that long side and the heavy, longer pieces will go in the short end in those 2- 30" bins. I am expecting the slabs to be tilted and just touching the floor on a fairly small corner. 

   You are not seeing it in most of these pictures but above that middle 2X4 framing (Is that called a girt?) is the 2X12 header or 2X6 crosspiece on the end so anything much over 7' will be resting against that. 

   I think my leaf blower will easily remove any sawdust or leaves that blow in so am not expecting a problem there.

   I have not planned on painting any of this but if I do I can do like you did and just buy a big can of the "No Trespassing" purple and use what is is leftover to paint my property lines. I may just paint the ends of my rafters as they are the most at risk.

[Don P]

Yup, a "wall purlin" is a girt, wrapping the girth of the building.

If the girts are bowing out under load run some of those short studs up to the roof beam.