Clutch retainer nut torque spec...

[mrcaptainbob]

It ran fine two days ago. Today the chain would stop when entering the wood. Although at full rpm it would 'kinda' stay with the engine, IF there weren't too much for the chain to eat. I suspect the clutch may be slipping on the crank.
Oh yeah...it's a Ward's TMY24048A .
Where can I find the clutch retainer nut torque spec? I must admit, the nut came off pretty dang easy. Nothing else appears to be out of wack...

[donbj]

If you google torque specs for bolts you will find specs for various size shafts/bolts and thread types. That'll get you going.

[mrcaptainbob]

I considered that, Don, but I'm thinking, since it's a taper, the spec may be different. Since this is a pretty old saw I'm reluctant to do anything that may damage hard-to-find parts...

[donbj]

That certainly could change things. What saw are we looking at? I'm working some early 60's Pioneer 600's and the clutch on those slide on to a keyed shaft and held on by a self locking nut.

[mrcaptainbob]

..it's a Ward's TMY24048A
It runs very well. The c-shaft is tapered with no key.
I appreciate your help, Don.

[Hilltop366]

I have never worked on a Ward's chain saw but all the chainsaws I have worked the drum and sprocket is on a bearing and the clutch shoes and holder are threaded on the crank shaft, the threads on the clutch and shaft are in a direction so that they tighten under load so they don't unthread during use so if your clutch is slipping it is usually because it is worn out there is a chance that it has got grease on it.

[donbj]

I'm not familiar with that set up either. It seems odd that it relies only on a tapered fit for holding it other than the nut. I would imagine the nut is left hand thread?

Inspect the surfaces, if it has been spinning on the crankshaft. If in good shape a good cleaning with carb cleaner and torque it down and see how it goes. I'm surprised there isn't at least  key way to hold it from spinning.

When you put it back together use a good self locking nut. Not sure what to say regarding torque specs.

[mrcaptainbob]

Hilltop: the drive sprocket is on the drum cup. Interesting that the drum cup outwards. The clutch pads are pretty large. Two of them with a couple of healthy springs keeping them steady. It the center piece of the clutch pads that's tapered and sets on the c'shaft. Interesting setup. I did clean it all up with brake clean. And re-greased the cage bearing while I was in there. I got to wondering if, when installoig a fresh chain I may have gotten the driers between the back of the clutch cup and the drive sprocket wall. It's pretty difficult to see in there. Will check it out tomorrow to make sure it's correct. I guess I'll settle for 'that's-about-tight-enough' when I put that nut back on. And yes, it is left hand thread.

[mrcaptainbob]

A freshly sharpened chain CORRECTLY placed IN the rim sprocket and that was a wood-cuttin' son-of-a-gun! I believe I did not correctly place that chain the last time.
All is well now.

[donbj]

Glad you got it sorted! The simple fixes are the best. Good it wasn't a messed up clutch.