I've got some blades that have rust and build up on them. I'm getting ready to take them to my cousin's that has just bought a HM 122 mill and an auto sharpener.
I was just wondering how to shine them up to get them ready to be sharpened and ready for use again.
Wire brush on an angle grinder. Better yet, someone once posted on here a setup they used, a drill press with a cup wire brush and they had a jig on the presses table so they could put the blade in, raise the table until the brush engaged the blade, and then just pulled the blade around until it was all shiny. Of course, you'd have to flip the blade inside out to get the other side. It looked easier than trying to use an angle grinder one handed.
before i take the dull blade off the mill, i use a Ryobi 18v angle grinder with a wire brush cup
put the engine at idle, engage the blade, then from the backside of the blade use the wire brush
have the brushing go from back to front. takes about a minute
it is called
3 in. Twisted Wire Cup Brush
I've tried shining up blades off the mill. It's like trying to wrestle with a house cat with 158" if claws if you don't have a jig of some sort.
I put the blades back on the mill and clean them with a few drops of diesel and a stiff brush while the blade is turning. You just have to be careful not to brush the gullet or the teeth. Most times I try to clean and oil the blade before I take it off the mill.
Could you turn the blade inside out and put it on the mill, The teeth would be pointing back and wouldn't catch the wire wheel ? I haven't tried this.
If you have a floor standing drill press, or a bench press that you can mount on the corner of a bench so blade can hang underneath it....
Put a coarse cup brush in the press. Put 3/4 plywood on the press table with a 2" high wood fence screwed to it and a sacrificial 1/2" thick x 2" wide board on the inside corner of the fence/plywood, and position this under the cup brush. Put a piece of plywood on the floor so the band doesnt scrape on the floor. Lock the cup brush fairly tight against the 1/2 x 2" wood strip. One side of the cup brush will be touching the fence. Adjust the pressure so that the brush doesnt start burning the wood underneath.
Only the inside of most bands are dirty.
Invert the band and pull it teeth backwards under the spinning brush. You can pull it at a rate so it cleans everything,or push it back and forth at difficult areas, or pull it around twice. Usually not necessary to add any cleaner. Stubborn sap like from SYP comes off easy if you spray on a little sodium hydroxide cleaner or you could use diesel depending what your shop environment is like. Again seldom necessary.
Once you are set up it should take about 30 seconds to clean a band. One advantage besides speed is that the band does not seem to be thrown anywhere by the spinning force. Much safer than trying to hold a band against a grinder with a wire whee in it. Still I wore heavy gloves which go with handling bands in general.
Note, since graduating from LT40 super 158" bands to LT70 1-1/2" bands for some reason the bands come off clean and I dont do this any more.
Thanks for the options. So,Wire wheels and brushes are safe to use. I'm going to try and fabricate a diesel wipe lubrication system like Cook's does and maybe this won't be such an issue. The rust can't be good for the blade. Pitting and what not. In any case I'll be cleaning them up before changing them next time.
Here's an earlier post on the topic
Easy way to clean bands in Sawmills and Milling (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=103064.msg1601909#msg1601909)
I have a bottle with a pin hole in the top full of diesel with a little bar oil in it that I drip on the blade at idle till it cleans all the sawdust before taking the blade off. No scrubbing the blades here and it prevents the blade from rusting to.
Quote from: armechanic on February 05, 2020, 12:17:44 PM
Could you turn the blade inside out and put it on the mill, The teeth would be pointing back and wouldn't catch the wire wheel ? I haven't tried this.
the teeth would be touching the blade guide
so, DO NOT DO THIS
Quote from: DDW_OR on February 06, 2020, 09:58:15 PM
Quote from: armechanic on February 05, 2020, 12:17:44 PM
Could you turn the blade inside out and put it on the mill, The teeth would be pointing back and wouldn't catch the wire wheel ? I haven't tried this.
the teeth would be touching the blade guide
so, DO NOT DO THIS
I'm pretty sure he means flip it inside out and put it on with the teeth away from the guides as usual. They will be pointing backwards. Never have done it myself
I find a quick and easy way to clean buildup off blades is with a sticker or piece of wood same length or so and start the blade running and water/lube as well. Put the sticker up against the inner blade guide bracket and pull it back sawing a flat on the bottom while holding some down pressure on the blade. Doesn't take long and all hands and body parts are away from the blade.
Also for stubborn stuff give a soaking spray with WD40 and it'll soften it up by the time sharpening comes along.
Quote from: donbj on February 06, 2020, 10:25:57 PMAlso for stubborn stuff give a soaking spray with WD40 and it'll soften it up by the time sharpening comes along.
This and a bit of patience saves time cleaning. A bit of soaking and crud wipes right off. And if one sets first, the oily blade goes around the setter more easily.
If its rust your after, I use an acetone dip on the blades.
I have a nephew that used a wire cup brush on a drill once, with safety glasses on, a wire bristle came off the bounced around the work area, went up his nose and blew his eye out Behind his safety glasses, he's only had one eye for almost 20 years now due to it. Not fond of the wire brush thing at all ever since, and no safety glasses don't stop everything. When we use wire brushes on a drill or grinder, we have a welding helmet with a clear lens in it, to help cover your face and nose so its harder to get anything up your nose at all.
Wire cup brush loosing bristles...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0267.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1440629011)
This one went in, came out, and then went back in.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0270.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1440629021)
Yes they can loose bristles and you know not where they are going. This one stopped in my forearm. A "surgical sterile" Leatherman tool removed it. ;D
Wow. That gives me pause - face shield from now on.
I bet that hurt getting it out. Fortunately, Dr MM's Surgical Center is nearby. ;)
If that method is used, I'd suggest that you use the slowest speed on the drill press! ;)
I do use the slowest speed. What do you think about going with a brass brush? More flexible.
I do use the slowest speed. What do you think about going with a brass brush? .. more flexible.
????? I got a msg on post #17 saying there was no body so I reposted....?????
yep, those gremlins again