I recently bought a peice of land which contains a woodlot with a 5 year plan of making it the location of our home. The short term plan is to build an off grid cabin for when we visit. Would like to build the cabin out of 8×8 from the trees on the property.
I am a person who likes to tinker and build thinks and plan on building my mill using an old bus frame for the base. My biggest dilemma comes when deciding on how to move the head up and down. I personally would prefer to use an acme screw for accuracy but see that most commercial models use a cable system and it also appears to be the moat popular style on home. Also i habe seen several spring assisted chain systems that seem amazing. Hydraulics is not an option as i would like to keep they system as simple as possible.
From owners and builder's experience what system would they use on their dream mill for a muscle power option.
Thanks in advance for your assistance
I'd use a gearmotor with chain and sprockets.
This sounds like an ambitious plan....wood lot, build a saw, build a cabin, build a house in 5 years. Maybe I'm missing something or didn't understand the time line?
The cabin would be first. I would hire out the construction of the house as i have a full time job.
Yes i know its a pipe dream but if you dont think big you have nothing to push for. Cabin is gonna be dead simple. Just a box with a loft
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on February 08, 2018, 06:07:01 PM
I'd use a gearmotor with chain and sprockets.
that's the system I'd like to go with if I could figure out a good way to do it.
For a fully manual system, the lift needs to be simple and efficient. Cable with spring assist would be good.
I built mine with acme rod. I used 1" by 5 threads per inch. It is a four post type mill with a single acme rod on either side connected by #40 chain. I have a steering wheel on one side pirated off a lawnmower for small adjustments. I have a 3/4 inch bolt head on the other side that I power with a Milwaukee cordless drill for more movement.......works very well for me. I built mine to build a house as well.....built the mill around 2000......moved into the house 2 years ago. It was done by a contractor. I could have done it myself, but I got married in the interim. Wives don't have quite as much patience as I do.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10624/New%20blade%20guard%202.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1192061656)
Wudman
There is an extensive thread on this subject.
Bob
http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,16775.0.html
Quote from: kelLOGg on February 08, 2018, 09:01:13 PM
There is an extensive thread on this subject.
Bob
http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,16775.0.html
not real extensive
Another question came to mind about head raise systems.
I have not seen a system that is counterweighted. A counterweight would limit the force required to lift the head and thereby make a gear/chain system more effective.
Or is there some reason this is not done.
Quote from: waynorthmountie on February 08, 2018, 09:56:42 PM
Another question came to mind about head raise systems.
I have not seen a system that is counterweighted. A counterweight would limit the force required to lift the head and thereby make a gear/chain system more effective.
Or is there some reason this is not done.
I would think if the head was floating that it would enhance wavy cuts.
Best to let the gravity do its work and hold things down.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 08, 2018, 10:26:06 PM
Quote from: waynorthmountie on February 08, 2018, 09:56:42 PM
Another question came to mind about head raise systems.
I have not seen a system that is counterweighted. A counterweight would limit the force required to lift the head and thereby make a gear/chain system more effective.
Or is there some reason this is not done.
And now it becomes painfully obvious.
I would think if the head was floating that it would enhance wavy cuts.
Best to let the gravity do its work and hold things down.
Nothing wrong with using a counter weight or garage door spring to relieve some of the weight , surely don't want it floating. Also if using a worm gearbox make sure it a heavy duty one with a high ratio like 80 to 1 so it holds the head when stopped. A 20 to 1 or 30 to 1 might not.. Steve
Acme rod come in 1 cut 2 cut and 3 cut. One is slow and 3 is fast.
I did not know that. So it's like course and fine thread pitch?
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on February 09, 2018, 08:08:24 AM
I did not know that. So it's like course and fine thread pitch?
No... It will have 1-2 or more starting threads.
What does multiple start mean? Lead screws can have more than one thread cut into the diameter.
A 1 start has only a single thread cut. A 2 start has 2 threads and
the motion per revolution is doubled from .1 inch per rev to .2 inch per rev. Similarly the 5 start has
5 separate threads cut into the outside diameter of the rod. This results in motion of .5 inch
per revolution of the screw.
I added a couple of garage door springs to the head lift on my manual wm lt40. Just enough to help a head lift motor that's a bit on the small slow side. Pics in my gallery. I know of one local mill that uses a couple of big lead counterweights. He removed the gas engine and installed a 20 hp electric motor...too much weight for the lift mechanism..
If you go to my photos you will see my process of adding a spring to my saw head. It has worked out great.
Bedway. Do you have a link to your complete build.
Also curious as to why you added the spring assist to the acme screw system.
I was thinking of adding a spring assist as well. It will be less stress on the motor and maybe less wear on the bronze bushings. The spring assist should never cause the head to float just make it lighter. Right now my motor is working well without the spring assist so that may be a future mod.
Spring assist or counter weight = same thing only different. Add a brake and there will be no worries.
Check out a SMG Champion mill and see how fast and easy the saw head moves up and down. You can glean all kinds of ideas from their mills they seem well thought out easy to use with centralized controls. With a manual mill you will spend more time handling the log than cutting so any time saved is helpful.
Ya I have looked at the SMG Champion, great idea's possibly the best looking factory made unit on the market. To bad it is impossible to find any real details about it. Quebec company who is forced by language laws to do most of their website in French I think. Very limited English info.