I'm building a tire mill based on bill rakes plans (which I highly do not recommend using ). I'm to the point of installing the blade which I picked up yesterday. Wood mizer 10 degree .042 158 inch. I have it on the tires but don't see any way it will stay on the tires. I have read on here several post about having angle on the tires. It seems just hand rolling it around with having angle just makes the blade want to roll off. I'm using 5.30 12 Tires d ply Trailer tires. The tires have a decent crown on them. Any one that has dealt with a tire mill have a suggestions for keeping the blade on and centered? I will add some pics eventually.
Do you have enough tension on the blade? My steel wheeled mill will not keep a blade on with out it.
Yes. I have it pretty tight. I'm wondering on the air pressure of the tires. These are rated at 105 psi. I don't have that much in them and wonder if they need that much?
I've got 60 psi in them
I agree with tacks. you may have alot of screwing around to get them to stay on I am using bandwheels with belts on my build and it took quite a bit of aligning to get mine to stay on.
Also be sure your teeth do not touch the tire. It will flatten the set on one side of the blade causing you to cut circles.
Quote from: Crusarius on February 27, 2018, 11:36:41 AM
Also be sure your teeth do not touch the tire. It will flatten the set on one side of the blade causing you to cut circles.
The teeth would have to touch the tires on a tire mill no way to run it All the way out on the edge like a pulley mill
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The crown in the tires should be enough to keep them from touching. but if the tires get worn to far the set will be removed from the one side of the teeth.
First off don't worry about the teeth touching on a rubber tire mill - no way to avoid it. Between the crown and soft rubber, I've never had the set affected, maybe it's tire dependent?? Too much tension will however eat away at the rubber.
Bill Turner who manufactures a great rubber tired machine recommends 45psi and 1/2" to 1" deflection with 60-70lbs of pull down pressure in his 12" trailer tire mills. I'd start there.
It's hard to see in your picture but is the non drive wheel able to pivot about it's vertical axis?
I assume it does, but I'll explain anyway, all band saws have an adjustment where the non drive wheel can pivot and this is what adjusts your blade tracking. What I've always done is adjust it by rolling the wheels by hand until the blade will run consistently in one spot.
Then I run the mill at full speed and adjust it till the blade almost touches the rear guide bearings. As close as I can get without it actually moving the bearing. This ensures that when not in the cut there is no pressure on the bearing but as soon as you enter the wood the bearing will support the blade without allowing it to move rearward.
Of course this all assumes that your 2 wheels are not offset much, they need to be in the same planes in all three axes. I'd think if it's off much you'd have lots of trouble getting the blade to stay on.
I had a hard time with this too. I never really mastered it, but I did get better at it. If you can take a straight edge and go all the way across your tires; if you can get the straight edge to touch each tire in two points (four places total). This is a good starting point. Then you must be able to adjust the "toe" to get it to track correctly. Make sure you are doing this once it is tensioned up. What I found was that I could get them straight, but when I tensioned the blade My axle and or mill would flex. This would throw everything off. Also, you need to make sure both tires are plum. Good luck.
Quote from: Georgia088 on February 27, 2018, 12:33:00 PM
I had a hard time with this too. I never really mastered it, but I did get better at it. If you can take a straight edge and go all the way across your tires; if you can get the straight edge to touch each tire in two points (four places total). This is a good starting point. Then you must be able to adjust the "toe" to get it to track correctly. Make sure you are doing this once it is tensioned up. What I found was that I could get them straight, but when I tensioned the blade My axle and or mill would flex. This would throw everything off. Also, you need to make sure both tires are plum. Good luck.
How can you run angle and still have a straight edge touch in 4 places?
Quote from: jason.weir on February 27, 2018, 12:29:25 PM
It's hard to see in your picture but is the non drive wheel able to pivot about it's vertical axis?
The idler wheel has adjustment the drive wheel I have to shim
The blade is wanting to come off the back
Quote from: Kwill on February 27, 2018, 12:51:25 PM
Quote from: Georgia088 on February 27, 2018, 12:33:00 PM
I had a hard time with this too. I never really mastered it, but I did get better at it. If you can take a straight edge and go all the way across your tires; if you can get the straight edge to touch each tire in two points (four places total). This is a good starting point. Then you must be able to adjust the "toe" to get it to track correctly. Make sure you are doing this once it is tensioned up. What I found was that I could get them straight, but when I tensioned the blade My axle and or mill would flex. This would throw everything off. Also, you need to make sure both tires are plum. Good luck.
How can you run angle and still have a straight edge touch in 4 places?
If you can get the tires to touch in four places, that is a good place to start your "toe" in. After I got mine to touch in all four places, I would then "toe" mine in slightly so the straight edge would touch on the outside edge of both tires and there would be a gap between the straight edge and the inside part of the tire. But until you get them lined up so the straight edge is touching in four points, you are kinda shooting in the dark with your alignment. This is how I did it and it worked pretty well. I'm no expert though. Hope you get it figured out.
this is for a vertical delta type bandsaw but the idea is the same
Tune Your Bandsaw (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/american-woodworker-blog/tune-bandsaw)
Kwill,
Here is what worked for me. I used donut spare tires because they have a very round profile and are designed to run at 60 to 70 psi (and they were free). They are very hard with a pronounced crown.
First, I sighted down the face of the mill to make sure they were reasonably in line. I put the blade on and tensioned it up to what I felt was pretty tight. Then I spun the wheels by hand. The blade immediately wanted to walk off the tires. I have the ability to pivot both tires like a car steering. I have a bolt that I tighten that pushes on the inside of the wheel mount. The blade tension wants to pull the tires together (making a very slight V looking from the top). The bolts can make it go the other way.
Working one wheel at a time, I adjusted the tire angle (camber?) until it tracked on the high point of the tire. I cut a little and found I needed more tension (to flatten out the waves). That in turn affected the tracking a little. Re-adjusted and then set the blade guides to have 1/4" to 3/8" down pressure and the back flange just off the back of the blade.
I have the mill at home now, I'll go get some pictures if that will help.
EDIT:
Here is the idle side. The bolt on the left is the pivot point, the bolt on the right has a little bit of a slot.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Hub_Adjust_Idle_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519757808)
Looking from the bottom up, the little rusty 1/4" bolt with the locknut is the adjuster. It takes maybe a 1/4 turn to make a big difference in the tracking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Hub_Adjust_Idle_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519758057)
The only reason you need any toe in is because of the flex of the machine. If you could make a machine with no flex then you would not need toe in. Bands always seek the crown of the wheel.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 27, 2018, 01:39:25 PM
The only reason you need any toe in is because of the flex of the machine. If you could make a machine with no flex then you would not need toe in. Bands always seek the crown of the wheel.
Come on? Thats like saying wheel weights are only needed because tires are out of balance.. If you build a balanced tire there would be no need for wheel weights. ;)
I've got 5 factory made band saws here in the shop, 2 horizontal metal, a vertical metal, vertical wood & a vertical meat saw. All of them were designed with toe adjustment and not just because of flex.
Anyone seen a band saw without blade tracking adjustment..
Back to the OPs problem - its clear you have one or more of the following problems
1. Tire Pressure
2. Blade Tension
3. Wheel Alignment
4. Blade Tracking Adjustment
Keep at it - you will get it.
The reason for that is that it would be next to impossible and not cost effective to build a mill that's perfect.
But if you did and if you built it with no flex and it would not wear to need adjustment then you would not need any toe in adjustment. Wheel weights would not be needed if the tires would not wear to need them and if they was made right the first time. But we don't live in a perfect world and things move, wear, flex and so on. This is why almost everything made has some kind of adjustment. Just my $0.02
Quote from: Georgia088 on February 27, 2018, 01:01:12 PM
Quote from: Kwill on February 27, 2018, 12:51:25 PM
Quote from: Georgia088 on February 27, 2018, 12:33:00 PM
I had a hard time with this too. I never really mastered it, but I did get better at it. If you can take a straight edge and go all the way across your tires; if you can get the straight edge to touch each tire in two points (four places total). This is a good starting point. Then you must be able to adjust the "toe" to get it to track correctly. Make sure you are doing this once it is tensioned up. What I found was that I could get them straight, but when I tensioned the blade My axle and or mill would flex. This would throw everything off. Also, you need to make sure both tires are plum. Good luck.
How can you run angle and still have a straight edge touch in 4 places?
If you can get the tires to touch in four places, that is a good place to start your "toe" in. After I got mine to touch in all four places, I would then "toe" mine in slightly so the straight edge would touch on the outside edge of both tires and there would be a gap between the straight edge and the inside part of the tire. But until you get them lined up so the straight edge is touching in four points, you are kinda shooting in the dark with your alignment. This is how I did it and it worked pretty well. I'm no expert though. Hope you get it figured out.
Ok I'm working on getting them to touch in four places. They did in 3
Ok i done some adjusting on the idler side which was off and now I can keep the blade on
Ok good news. I started the engine and engaged the blade and it stayed on. I ran it for awhile and it's centered and not moving.
Quote from: Kwill on February 27, 2018, 08:05:50 PM
Ok good news. I started the engine and engaged the blade and it stayed on. I ran it for awhile and it's centered and not moving.
awesome - small victories my friend small victories...
Great. What I found is I believe my tires would "give". If I put as much tension on it as I wanted, the blade would wander. To begin with the blade would come off the front. I found out my axle (mine was a golf cart rear end) would flex or bend. This would change the "toe" I solved that problem with a bar across the front which greatly helped and probably would have made me happy. However, I was using cheap cheap cheap harbor freight trailor tires. I think the plys weren't strong enough to withstand the tension and would cause problems due to the weakness in the rubber. So I still couldn't tighten up like I wanted. Your tires seem to be much better and I think will work better. If they will hold 100 psi, I think I would put that much in them. This is just my opinion.... hope it works out for you.
I was perusing craigslist last night and noticed someone had a set of bandmill wheels, and four grooved casters for a mill for 100 bucks, doesn't help now, but that would have been a deal when you started.
Quote from: starmac on February 27, 2018, 09:41:26 PM
I was perusing craigslist last night and noticed someone had a set of bandmill wheels, and four grooved casters for a mill for 100 bucks, doesn't help now, but that would have been a deal when you started.
Yeah if I had it to do over I would have went with pulleys and belts. And the design would have been totally different.
Gonna work on the raise and lower today. Kinda a bummer cause I have to pull the blade and engine and stuff back off no that I have it running good :)
Got a little done today on the lifting mechanism. The motor lifts it really good and the turnbuckle makes it nice to be able to even everything out. I have to move my pulleys up so I don't loose my height cut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1519869050652.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1519869450)
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Lookin good...
Thank ya. Wish I could find some shorter turnbuckles.
I think I'm going to leave these turn buckles for now. I can always get some shorter ones. The cut height I have now is plenty big enough for the cedars I will be milling.
To paint or not to paint that is the question. I know the slides will never hold paint. Can't really decide what to do.
Test it then clean and paint. Otherwise you will have rust stains all over your lumber.
Quote from: Crusarius on March 01, 2018, 12:25:03 PM
Test it then clean and paint. Otherwise you will have rust stains all over your lumber.
The track is already painted. The mill won't be out in the weather. I'm going to test it and then maybe prime and paint it.
Quote from: Kwill on March 01, 2018, 11:01:47 AM
Thank ya. Wish I could find some shorter turnbuckles.
Is there a way you can attach one side lower on the head? Plus you don't need two turn buckles... You just need to raise/lower one side to true it up.
One side would be easy to lower the other side would be a little tougher. Thing is I don't really need the extra height with what I'm going to be cutting. The mill is being built to cut cedar only off our farm.
Mocking up some ideas for my blade guides. Had those orange pieces from something I got at a auction. If I can get those figured out I will be a step closer to testing it out.
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Quote from: Kwill on March 01, 2018, 11:01:47 AM
Wish I could find some shorter turnbuckles.
Maybe just use I-bolts in place of the turnbuckle. May only need on one side but leave plenty of thread to tighten or loosen..
Jason
With a cut off wheel and a welder you can shorten the turn buckles.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 01, 2018, 02:47:01 PM
With a cut off wheel and a welder you can shorten the turn buckles.
I got both of those :)
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Needed to make adjustable hole. Used a drill press and a torch and a file. It turned out pretty decent I thought. Have to make one more
Not bad! Scary looking hoses, though...
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 01, 2018, 06:17:19 PM
Not bad! Scary looking hoses, though...
Yeah I gotta do something about those
I wonder how this pulley would work for a blade guide?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1519948863335.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1519948941)
I don't think they are high speed...
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 01, 2018, 07:27:43 PM
I don't think they are high speed...
doesn't get much higher speed than a car engine
I'm sorry... First look I thought that was a cam bearing. Belt idlers might work...
The width concerned me a little bit. I'm running 1 1\4 blades And it's less than an inch wide. About 7\8
Cook's guides for 1-ΒΌ" blades are 1" wide.
Kwill watch those hoses, I knew a guy that had a small leak in his acetylene hose and his 9 year old was hanging out playing while he worked. He breathed in to much and when his dad lit the torch it killed him grave yard dead, very bad situation all the way around.
Most guides have a flange on the back to help hold the blade on if your pushing to hard. Maybe you could tack a large washer to your bearing.
Maybe it is my eyes, but it looks like that idler has a small flange on it, or is that some sort of backing plate i am seeing?
Yeah it has a flange
Quote from: Kwill on March 01, 2018, 11:01:47 AM
Thank ya. Wish I could find some shorter turnbuckles.
How about using a through bolt (or an eye bolt) instead of the turnbuckle? You could still have your adjustment in a more compact package.
Wudman
Quote from: Wudman on March 02, 2018, 11:50:40 AM
Quote from: Kwill on March 01, 2018, 11:01:47 AM
Thank ya. Wish I could find some shorter turnbuckles.
How about using a through bolt (or an eye bolt) instead of the turnbuckle? You could still have your adjustment in a more compact package.
Wudman
Just make sure you use a welded eye or the weight might straighten it out! Don't ask me how I know ::)
The turn buckles I have are working ok.
i go back and forth on building vs buying guides. Currently im on the buy from cooks. Yesterday it was build.
Quote from: ktm250rider on March 02, 2018, 03:41:57 PM
i go back and forth on building vs buying guides. Currently im on the buy from cooks. Yesterday it was build.
Yeah same here. If I buy I'm gonna get them from woodmizer
I wonder if a guy could take one of these alternator pulleys and grind the front flange off and use it for a guide
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Dropped 130.00 at wood mizer today. Figure if I'm going to do it might as well do it right
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/20180305_105920.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520270151)
I tend to think you will be money ahead with the factory guides, in the long run.
On a side note, I thought woodmizer had some sort of policy that you had to have one of their mills registered with them to buy parts. I know I have tried to look up some stuff on their website, but can not access all of it for some reason.
I haven't had any trouble with there site. I went to our local woodmizer store and bought them
Really didn't want to spend the money on them. I sold some stuff I had on Facebook and Craigslist over the weekend and made a little extra cash so it wasn't a big deal.
I hear you, but like I said, it is likely money well spent in the long run.
I may be doing something wrong trying to access parts on their site, computers are not my strong suit
I needed a 1/2 spacer or bushing and didn't have one. So I took a 1/2 nut and drilled it out. Worked perfect.
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Why did you need a spacer? My Cook's came with one...
I drilled out my bolt and inserted a zerk so I can grease the bearings every day. I drilled halfway through the bolt lengthwise and then halfway in the side so grease will squirt out between the bearings forcing the old grease out both the forward and leeward bearings.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Cooks_Guides.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1439747165)
Mine are woodmizer not cooks
You need to make sure the spacer is faced properly so that the front and back face are absolutely parallel. Otherwise, you will be stressing the bearing by taking the center race out of alignment.
Didn't do anything to the face of the nut.
Done a little work on my blade guides today. I think they will work out ok.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1520383791148.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1520383937)
Nice work..
I've been racking by own brain on guides.. still undecided..
Thanks. Its trial and error. I Will see how they work out.
Building some outriggers for my sawmill track trailer. Got 3 more to build
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I am pretty confident that the base of that jack will never wear out or bend.
Yeah a little overboard but it's what I had on hand :)
I got the engine and tires mounted back up. I put the blade on and ran it. It ran nice. I think I will get the tires balanced before running it. I have to get my log stops and dogs done then I will give it a trial run.
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Well couldn't wait to try it out so I went out and cut a fresh cedar and gave it a whirl. It worked out pretty good. At least I know now it will cut. Have to get my guards made and waiting on some other parts to show up.
I don't blame you one bit. Matter of fact.....Congratulations on "first sawdust". 8)
Quote from: Magicman on March 26, 2018, 09:33:17 PM
I don't blame you one bit. Matter of fact.....Congratulations on "first sawdust". 8)
Thanks. I sure made a mess in the shop floor 8)
hehe been there done that :)
If it had not be raining it would have been tested outside. No biggee
After running the first cuts I noticed I got a couple set screws backing out. Gonna pick up some locktite in town and see if that helps.
Congrats! Nothing like a little sawing to get the motivation up to finish it!
Great to see you have got her going, now puleeeeze get some guards. I originally would walk by mine till I saw how violent a blade gets when it breaks, it would get wild real quick with no guards.
Good job there Kwill. Lookin goood. Ditto on the guards though. Banjo
Yeah guards are in the works. I redone my log stops and got my other log dog finished up today. Waiting on a shipment from surplus center so I can get my centrifical clutch installed. Also ordered some acme thread and nuts to possibly change my raise and lower.
Looks very nice. Didn't take you long at all to get it done.
Cheers
gww
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It's like Christmas when parts show up.
Quote from: gww on March 28, 2018, 06:05:15 AM
Looks very nice. Didn't take you long at all to get it done.
Cheers
gww
I've actually been working on it for awhile
Quote from: Kwill on March 26, 2018, 09:38:05 PM
Thanks. I sure made a mess in the shop floor 8)
Shut your mouth. Sawdust in the floor is never a mess. That is Progress, and the start of something good.
Or I tell my wife that every time she see's it in the floor.
Clutch and New belt installed
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/20180328_151609.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522268220)
Ok I made a few changes and decided to give it another test run.
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Have to redo one of my t bolts for my log stop as it's to long. Would like to add so springs some how to keep the stops from dropping when unscrewed. Need to figure out a measuring stick so I know what size of lumber I'm cutting. And of course guards. Get the raise lower motor installed and wired up. Mount the battery box. Figure out a way to put a throttle cable on it. The centrifical clutch worked out perfect.
Quote from: Kwill on March 28, 2018, 06:43:55 PMNeed to figure out a measuring stick so I know what size of lumber I'm cutting.
Used stamps to mark the numbers. Probably should have used stamps to make the lines. I used a razor knife and a straight edge to make them. Label of each scale at the bottom. Each mark is that measurement + 1/8" to cut oversize for kerf/shrinkage. I have a second one that is 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 (I used a smaller font). I have a lot of interesting sizes for my cabin...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171103_c.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1509742183)
Drilled four 1/4" holes each end and pressed in super magnets. Still didn't keep it from moving, so added a clamp.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20171103_d.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1509742203)
My measureing is a little simpler. A table saw, a scrap of wood and a welders clamp.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39533/1027160749-00.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477603463)
Cheers
gww
Ijohnsaw id have to go to cal tech to figure out how to use that. I think a simple metal yard stick will do
Quote from: Kwill on March 28, 2018, 08:02:07 PM
Ijohnsaw id have to go to cal tech to figure out how to use that. I think a simple metal yard stick will do
Actually, quite simple. Do the opening cut. Set the scale you want at the pointer (align). Drop down to the next mark on that scale and cut. If the next cut is the same scale, drop down. If a different thickness, align a mark on that scale and then drop down again. I used to count revolutions on my crank or physically mark the log and try to hit the mark. This is much faster. Right now I'm adding an electric motor to do the raise/drop.
Im guessing your 1 marks are 1 inch and 2 are 2 and so on?
The numbers across the bottom - yes. 1", 2" etc scale. I numbered the marks going up (should have been going down...) so I know my next target. If I open the log at 10 on the 2" scale, then my next cut will be at 9 (for 2x material). What I need to add is a magnet painted red. Then, I put that down below the next mark so I don't get confused between the different scales as I head to the mark. Got to do all I can to make it idiot proof ;)
Kwill
The reason I use the scrap board on mine is cause a simple aluminum ruler is too hard to use due to the math involved. I cut mine at about 1nd 1/8th and that gives me boards that are about a 1/16th under an inch. If I were going to build stuff that needed boards cleaned up on both sides by a planer, I would want to cut my boards closer to 1/8th over an inch. With just a ruler, you have to do the math to take the blade width out of the cut. I bet Ljohn has that already figured in on his markings also.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: gww on March 29, 2018, 03:16:15 PMI bet Ljohn has that already figured in on his markings also.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 28, 2018, 07:03:15 PMEach mark is that measurement + 1/8" to cut oversize for kerf/shrinkage.
My kerf is just under 1/8" so my boards are at or slightly larger then full size. I was thinking of doing 3/16" so I'd be closer to a full 1/8" over but I figure I'd mess that up on the layout - too many little lines to count on the ruler... ::) I'm doing all rough cut lumber for my cabin and I drew everything to even inches so, hopefully, this will work out just right. I did go for a bigger allowance on the larger sizes. IIRC, I did 1/4" oversize for 7" and up. When I cut a big beam, I'm only getting one out of a log and I like to cut 1/2" so I can come back and trim any twist out later.
Way to confusing. I'll mount up a simple metal ruler. All I will be cutting is 2x a 4x and maybe 6x stuff
Cooks sell these magnet ones...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cooks_rule~3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1522361260)
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 29, 2018, 06:07:54 PM
Cooks sell these magnet ones...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cooks_rule~3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1522361260)
I like the looks of those
Kwill: I was just curious about what HP you are running with the clutch assembly . I am building my mill and am thinking about going with a clutch too.
I like that clutch. It has a larger pulley than most single grove clutches. The smaller pulleys is really hard on belts.
Quote from: Piddler on March 30, 2018, 10:02:29 AM
Kwill: I was just curious about what HP you are running with the clutch assembly . I am building my mill and am thinking about going with a clutch too.
13 hp predator engine
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 30, 2018, 10:19:03 AM
I like that clutch. It has a larger pulley than most single grove clutches. The smaller pulleys is really hard on belts.
Me to. I like that the blades stop turning when I idle down
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1522447590507.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522449890)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1522447587512.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522449945)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1522449638059.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522449974)
done a little more testing today with a bigger log. Going to change my lift and lower to acme thread rod and going to redo my blade guide holders. I noticed when I have the one side extended it has some movement.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1522449640900.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522450025)
That log made 4 2x8 8ft long. Still have 2 more 8ft logs to cut out of that tree
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1522453365531.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522453363)
Mocking up some guards
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1522713758447.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522713857)
these was some trailer fenders off a old harbor freight trailer I had .
Glad to see you start on the guards. After reading that last post and the mention of two more logs, I was thinking, GREAT, just enough to break a band and keeeeel somebody.
Quote from: starmac on April 03, 2018, 01:30:16 AM
Glad to see you start on the guards. After reading that last post and the mention of two more logs, I was thinking, GREAT, just enough to break a band and keeeeel somebody.
I wasn't skered
I know, we never are....................... Till we are.
After seeing what they will do to metal, and how quick they can find a way out of the guards, which at least kind of funnels them in one direction, I don't know where a safe spot would be considered, without a guard.
They wont be as elaborate as other have made but they will give some protection.
My homemade bandsaw sawmill I built - YouTube (https://youtu.be/PcdzuK-d_kU)
Sorry for the video quality. Didn't have anyone to hold the camera.
Nice.... But I would be adding a front door to cover more of the wheels. Wait until you see a band leave your county.
Yeah it could use a little more in the guards dept
No real Good way to make them though on this mill.
I ran into same problem. guard was a thought up front but supporting them was an afterthought. I think I finally have an answer to mine will let you know if I do.
I've got mine supported pretty good. They don't shake or rattle when I run it. Ive got some sheet metal I'm going to cut and put on the front and back of the fenders to contain the blade if it should come apart. I'm going to put another piece from top of fender to top of fender. It just have to be good enough.
Made some front and back pieces on my trailer fender guards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1523208084651.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523208163)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1523207729899.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523208179)
Kwill
I did not put a blade gaurd on my mill. Yours looks nice. I only mentioned that I did not put a guard on mine so you know I am not the safety police. I did wonder though if you had though about a belt gaurd on the motor back where you are working. When I watched your vidio, Your reaching around to mess with the throttle made me thing that a gaurd back in your work area might be a good ideal. Not bossy, just throwing it out there.
You mill looks nice.
gww
Good idea. You never know when you might trip over the dog....
Quote from: gww on April 08, 2018, 04:37:17 PM
Kwill
I did not put a blade gaurd on my mill. Yours looks nice. I only mentioned that I did not put a guard on mine so you know I am not the safety police. I did wonder though if you had though about a belt gaurd on the motor back where you are working. When I watched your vidio, Your reaching around to mess with the throttle made me thing that a gaurd back in your work area might be a good ideal. Not bossy, just throwing it out there.
You mill looks nice.
gww
No plans on a guard on the drive pulley. I was on the opposite side of where the pulley is. I was reaching over to up the throttle. I have cable I am installing to prevent having to do that in the future. My blade guard ain't nothing special but should help contain the blade should it break.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 08, 2018, 07:48:13 PM
Good idea. You never know when you might trip over the dog....
That mean dog knows to stay out from underfoot 8)
I put guards on everything... I seen to many Opps in my life... Many years ago I had an old man teaching me how to run a machine... He said what ever you do don't ever put your fingers under this shelf. The next day he lost one of his fingers under the shelf of that machine. Accidents happen when you'r not expediting it. Be safe...
Got all my parts in for my sawhead lift and lower redo. Don't like the current cable system I have in place. It's being replaced by acme thread.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1523814138730~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523814328)
You want to run bronze nuts on the acme threads. Lasts way longer. Steve
Quote from: ladylake on April 15, 2018, 02:28:53 PM
You want to run bronze nuts on the acme threads. Lasts way longer. Steve
To expensive.