Hello. Thought I'd share a tip when using one of the cheap Chinese carburetors. I rebuilt my old Stihl 024 last year. I replaced the piston/rings, hoses and resealed it because it was low on compression and the crank seals were starting to leak a very little bit. I also ended up replacing the carb with a cheap Chinese clone, which I bought to test if the old carb was still bad even after rebuilding.
The Chinese carb fixed the saw and has worked well until recently when it started running lean when hot. After compression tests showing still 165-170 psi and perfectly passing the vac/pressure tests, I opened up the Chinese carb and found some very small aluminum shavings from the manufacturing process which I figure may be my problem.
When buying one of these carbs (or any new carb for that matter), I suggest taking it appart and giving it a through cleaning before installing, which honestly I should have in the first place. Other than this problem, the carb has impressed me with how well it has worked for the price which I think was like $12.
Hopefully that is helpful to someone ;)
Thanks for this tip. I have a few of those carbs on hand and the ones I have tried where not very good. Because they were new I didn't take them apart.
I replaced a carb on a Kohler 16hp engine with a knock-off carb since the old one was a chunk of rust. Worked for a while then was leaking fuel. Opened it up and found the float was not set right (wouldn't cut off the fuel) and a dead, fully intact, bug (¼" long, 1/8" dia) in the bowl. I'm pretty sure it didn't come through the needle valve! :-\
When I saw this title I thought is was about rice
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on March 19, 2018, 05:14:22 PM
When I saw this title I thought is was about rice
Thinking to your self "doesn't he know there's a "FOOD! FOOD! FOOD!" section ?!" :D
That's a good one!
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 17, 2018, 08:52:31 PM
I replaced a carb on a Kohler 16hp engine with a knock-off carb since the old one was a chunk of rust. Worked for a while then was leaking fuel. Opened it up and found the float was not set right (wouldn't cut off the fuel) and a dead, fully intact, bug (¼" long, 1/8" dia) in the bowl. I'm pretty sure it didn't come through the needle valve! :-\
Maybe that how the emerald ash borer got here!
I also have bought a few of them cheap carbs and it has been the roll of the dice on them. One will be good and the next one you can not adjust to save your hiney.
Can anyone share who the vendors are that they have had the best success getiing good aftermarket carbs? Or is it a "hit and miss" with any of them. I've had mostly bad luck with Zama's . Put kits in them and still will not work. Check valves I was told. I build a lot of Husky 350s and 346 conversions. Will be starting on the 357/359 series with the Walbro 199 carb shortly. Any help is appreciated.
I never buy aftermarket only OEM.
Here's a OEM Husqvarna 346XP carb (Chinese Zama.)
Works perfect and seeing Stihl owns 100% of Zama I got good faith in them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20180322_121727.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1521739365)
I should specify, unbranded Chinese aftermarket clone carburetors. ;)
I bought this one primarily to test to see if the old but rebuilt oem carburetor was at fault before spending $95 at the dealer for a new OEM. I agree OEM is best when it comes to replacement saw parts, regardless of where they're manufactured. ;)
Well, I agree OEM is the best way to go. But its been my understanding that the Zama's are all considered aftermarket since there all made in China regardless if there OEM or not. I can't really believe that a OEM Zama carb. would be made any better than non OEM, since there all made in China. I knew that Stihl owns the company now. Was just hoping that if someone recently bought some "good ones", I could buy some too from the same vendor, increasing my odds of getting good ones. Is there a Stihl vendor there making them as well? If so, than I can see where the quality would be better. Is my thinking correct on this?