Good morning Forestry Forum!
I've been researching for quite a while so have obviously been reading through here for a bit. I'm looking at getting a sawmill for personal/hobby use. We live on a little over an acre of woods and have quite a few trees that I've already had milled by either myself (chainsaw mill) or someone with a Woodmizer. The idea now is to get my own mill to mill up the rest of the lumber.
We're wanting a mill on a trailer and don't want to shell out the $9k for a Woodmizer lt15go. I've been looking at a few different mills (HM126 Trekker mainly) and have just come across a mill on Craigslist (first time seeing one on there since I've been searching). The mill on Craigslist is custom built in 2017, 28" diameter and 12'6" log capacity. He advised that it is heavier duty metal than the aluminum used on the cheaper mills for the base. It has a removable Trailer tongue and axel to lower the mill to the ground (I assume making it easier to roll logs onto it?). It comes with a few pikes and log rollers, a towable log transport with adjustable tongue for longer logs. The engine is a 13HP Ironton with less than 40 hours on it. It also comes with a few Woodmizer blades.
My thoughts on it, and concerns:
- Custom made, meaning no company to back it with support/service.
- Detachable axle/tongue which could be an interesting addition to make rolling the larger logs onto it easier.
- Larger diameter and length than similar mills (HM126)
- Under $4k for everything
When I asked why he was getting rid of it he said it was because he had double knee surgery and can't seem to get out and use it anymore.
I'd LOVE some advice here. The main concern is obviously the lack of support/service options if needed, but the cost savings on it as well as all the accessories that come along is tempting. Any info/advice/etc would be extremely appreciated!
Thanks!
Joe
Joe:
Welcome to the forum.
I am definitely not the right person to offer advice in this instance.
Making a decision like that is like trying to balance a large mathematical equation.
Many factors and many variables to ponder.
Many small mills need to be placed on a level cement pad (or something rigid) as the frame is not rigid enough which can cause you to make undesirable lumber.
Do you have any pictures?
Maybe some one else can be of more help to you.
Gerald
Lol, I spent so long trying to find the reply button, I forgot I had logged out... Anyway, I'm back now. Let me get you a pic that I got from the guy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49255/sawmill~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1521650014)
For not a whole lot more then that, you could have a starter mill that IS backed by a reputable company. I'm not at all impressed by the photo.
Since you have seen a production mill work, (someone with a Wood-Mizer you said) you know a little bit about how it is supposed to go. If I were you I'd not even consider the purchase without seeing everything work as you intend to work it first.
Thanks for the response Jeff. My Woodmizer friend also said he wouldn't touch it because of no support/service. I do agree that is a huge concern, and of course I wouldn't even consider until I made sure everything worked as needed.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks!
Joe
How much wood can you get sawn out by your wood-mizer friend for $4000?
Though that is a good question (because it is a lot...) I also have to factor in that he lives an hour away and is unavailable very much due to work and other obligations, so I have piles of logs in my yard (and have had for months).
Any machine (sawmill, truck, tractor etc.) is a combination of features and compromises. You have to determine which features you can't live without and which compromises you can live with. The same is true with dealer/manufacturer support - strong points and compromises. The majority of manufacturers produce quality saws that make boards out of logs. I have experience with only a couple but see many manufacturers represented here and very enthusiastic support for their brand.
As for the home built, I think you are correct to be concerned about the lack of support and the compromises the builder made. A plus for the home built is the likelihood that parts are "off the shelf" parts you can get at a surplus center, hardware store or auto parts store.
Sounds like you've done some sawing on a mill. I suggest, as I usually do, that you get some time on the type mill you are considering. In the case of the home built machine, you need to saw on it too. Go to the dealers location, manufacturers shop or farm/machinery shows and test them. Or ask around here for someone nearby who has a mill you are considering, many of us would welcome you to come look at our sawmill. Even spending 4 or 5k on a mill is a big investment and should be seriously considered. The worst thing would be to purchase a mill and lose interest because it won't do what you want or is too difficult to use.
Is he the only sawyer around? Owning a mill is great fun and rewarding. Owning a mill that doesn't do what you need it to do that you paid quite a bit of money for? That would be the pits. The manufactured mills have a much higher resale value as well. Keep that in mind. The difference in buying a mill, using it, growing tired of it, and then selling it may be less than the cost of that unknown mill.
The wood handled tools that come with it in my view would not even be a consideration of being of added value. I'd toss them and get some logrite tools.
He is one of the few around, but definitely cheapest I've found who can handle the sizes I'm working with.
So, all that said, what are your thoughts on the HM126 Trekker (which I was also looking at). I looked at Hud-Son or HF, but don't really see anything with trailer like the Trekker. Woodmizer is just too much $ for me.
Joe
If your a person that could build your own mill then I would look into it. If not buy a factory made one.
Wood Mizer
LT-10.......$3995.00
__________________________________________
sling_shot
Do you have the skills & tools to fix and modify the mill when you have issues?
Every home built mill goes through stages where things don't work right & need to be re-engineered & corrected. Think cutting, grinding, welding, machining & $$$.
From that picture it looks kind of light weight compared to the factory built mills.
If you are up for a project, it might be a good deal, if you plan on a plug & play mill that's not the one.
The extra $$ for the HM126 would be money well spent and still that mill will only cut 26"x10'.
I think 30"x16' would be the minimum. More like the the HM130XL (but I have no experience with Woodland mills)
Another in that same price range is the Turner (Turner Mills - Trailer Models (http://www.turnermills.com/trailer-models.html)).
They are a bare bones manually everything mill but easy to run & built with standard off the shelf parts.
Around here you can get wood sawn for $.35 bd\ft - $4k = 11000 board feet.
Might be cheaper to just have it sawn, If you really wanna saw it yourself than that's a different story, go for it.
-J
IMO the HF sawmill will not have support like other manufacturers. HF sells a lot of other stuff besides sawmills. There's a YouTube series on a couple of guys that bought a HF sawmill and they had to do tweaks right out of the box to make it usable. The track didn't align and produced bumps in the lumber they sawed. IIRC they had to grind and weld to get the track to align.
I'd rather be sawing than tweaking something to make it usable. I don't know anything specific about the HM 126 Trekker.
I agree you can have a lot of lumber sawn for the cost of a mill, but if you've got the saw dust addiction welcome to the club.
Harbor freight is the bottom of the sawmill barrel. Thats fine if you understand that going in.
My first mill was a used Enercraft . The owner was saying : ''in perfect condition ''. So I asked the vender to rent me the machine. If everything is fine , the renting cost will be not charge if I buy the mill. The mill WAS in perfect condition so I bought it. I've used it many years and I sold it for few hundreds less than I paid for ;D. I went for a brand new Woodmizer fully hydraulic, no regret and, Woodmizer has a top after service. Your choice as many variables. It starts with; do you expect to use it after your logs will be sawed ? If not hire somebody to do the job
Oh no, I agree HF is bottom of the barrel. I'm in no way saying I'd want a HF mill. I just mentioned it with the lower cost mills (Woodland, Hud-Son, etc).
Quote from: Slingshot on March 21, 2018, 02:17:07 PM
Wood Mizer
LT-10.......$3995.00
__________________________________________
sling_shot
As for the $4k for the LT-10, that's true on the price, but it doesn't have a trailer and is a bit smaller.
Also, I don't have the skill/know-how to fix/tweak a saw if it breaks (but I can learn :)).
I do seem to have a sawdust addiction, so I think I'm still hooked on getting one vs. using that money to have someone else cut it. Just can't figure out what I wanna do.
The HM126 Trekker is just over $4k (plus shipping and extra for extension and blades if I wanted to go longer than the 10'5" trailer). An extra $1k puts me in the HM130 Trekker but not sure I need that big. To get anything similar in Woodmizer, I'm looking at twice that cost. Are there any other brands you would all recommend for around the same $4-5k (on a trailer).
Thanks!
Sounds more like you are interested in buying a trailer than a sawmill.
I'm interested in buying a portable sawmill that is actually portable (on a trailer).
You do realize that many of those low end sawmills have to be placed on the ground off the trailer to saw.
The Woodland Mills HM126 and HM130 (that I've been talking about) both stay on the trailers and have leveling on it. I think the ad right above my post shows the HM126 with those leveling legs (feet? whatever they're called, lol).
I thought you were talking about a harbor freight mill? The woodland mills will have good backing if that is what you decide on.
Do you have the means or the wherewithal to lift a 1200 lb plus log to get it on the mill? I'm puzzled if the saw is for personal/hobby the need to be moving it all the time. Put the money into the mill and find a trailer to move the logs.
The HM 126 has a 9.5 hp power plant. If you have the means, the HM130 with the 14hp is worth the price difference. I've never owned a machine that has too much power. The 9.5 will saw but slower. I'm pretty sure I'd lose interest as I did with my chainsaw mill.
For reference what hp is on your friend's Woodmizer?
Are you are shopping solely on price ($4K-$5K)? Or do you think the HM126 is all you need?
I guess it doesn't matter but I'd recommend you buy all the mill you can reasonably afford. Understood you probably don't need an LT70 Super (yet). You'll likely find that the HM126 is too small, short & underpowered in short time and be looking to upgrade to something longer, faster & with more options (hydraulics maybe). Just like you probably did with your chainsaw mill. Otherwise you'd just keep using the chainsaw...
Add all that into the fact that you're on just an acre so either you will be looking to sell it because you're out of logs or you'll start sawing other folks logs, either way you'll be glad you bought the better mill. Either for resale value of increased production.
And Jeff has a good point, what do you have for support equipment - it's no fun getting lots to and then rolling them up ramps onto the mill with just a cant dog all by yourself. For me personally a small (30-40hp) 4wd tractor with forks is #1 on the list.
Most importantly don't let us spoil your party, everybody here is rooting for you to be making sawdust.
Quote from: jason.weir on March 21, 2018, 04:43:52 PMMost importantly don't let us spoil your party, everybody here is rooting for you to be making sawdust.
Absolutely. Remember, you asked, and we are just trying to keep it real for you. We have a combined experience her of probably over 25,000 years. (its probably way more, that was just a grab in the air.) :D
Welcome to the forum. A few years ago I wish I'd had the advice these guys are giving! I had the HM130 and it worked well for very limited use in my experience. The frame work is light compared to larger machines. I was struggling to maintain level. Heavy logs are constantly moving the bed. Next I bought the trailer to help stabilize it. Then I built ramps and a log turner.
I had a few issues with parts that seemed to wearing out to quickly. Woodland was good at replacement of items but I
soon realized I was quickly out growing its abilities. I had logs milled years ago but wasn't happy with the poor results.
I could have saved a lot of time and money in the long run. My Enercraft is fully hydraulic, accurate and built like a tank.
Money is always an issue but I try and wait and save til I can afford what I want (need).
Mine is now a source of income and that's growing. 8) It is addictive.
Welcome!
My opinion is that the trailer options are often overpriced for what you get as it has one single function. Unless moving the mill frequently, most people are better served with a sawmill and a trailer (think 16' car trailer). The mill can be more firmly set for better lumber. The separate trailer has extra versatility for very little extra money (sometimes less). The mill can be winched on the trailer easily to move it. Plus a trailer can bring logs to the mill. ;)
I've seen more than a few mills with the tires (or axles) removed knee deep in sawdust for sale. Often the ad says, "the tires are around here someplace". ;) Even more common is tires are left on, but mill has been stationary for a decade and tires are dry rotted. :)
Quote from: jpschersch on March 21, 2018, 03:44:19 PMThe Woodland Mills HM126 and HM130 (that I've been talking about) both stay on the trailers and have leveling on it. I think the ad right above my post shows the HM126 with those leveling legs (feet? whatever they're called, ).
Yes, it looks like you can mill with the trekker up on the axle. However, it is often easier to drop the sawmill rather than raise every log...even with a equipment available...
Oh, not sure where you are located, but would be worth a minute to check out the EZ Boardwalk Jr. as long as shipping isn't terrible. They are made in Northern Missouri. (And also have trailer options. ;D)
Quote from: Jeff on March 21, 2018, 05:03:41 PMWe have a combined experience here of probably over 25,000 years.
:o :o :o Let that soak in.
Ez boardwalk Jr made in the US and Honda powered and they offer a trailer option
TKehl is onto a good idea with the sawmill on a separate trailer. You may be able to afford more sawmill that way.
Take a look at the EZ Boardwalk JR. I have one and really like it and it's going price is about as good as you are going to see for that size mill. The thing is built plenty strong and does everything I ask of it.
I would agree with the folks suggesting looking for a mill and skip the trailer package and put that money towards a trailer to haul the mill or to haul logs to your mill.
BTW, where are you located?
I guess I will be the odd man out, if I was planning on moving the mill around any at all, I would want it on it's dedicated trailer.
This trailer preferably would be built for the purpose and fit the mill exclusively.
Perhaps a used mill from a reputable builder would be an option.
Unless you can fabricate and build with steel, I would stay away from
a homemade mill.
Others have pointed to some good options all with solid track records
of reliable mills.
I also suggest you try before you buy, you may find one mill
suites you very well and another... not so much.
best
D
Look at the EZ Boardwalk jr. it has a one piece frame of 4" channel iron so you can just hook a chain to it and pull it around...no trailer needed. Seriously, if you want a sawmill with trailer, even the Chinese mills can't compete with EZ Boardwalk's prices. And make sure you get the log loader/turner which simplifies two of the hardest things about sawmilling (loading and turning).
Different strokes, I consider the powered head, both up and down and travel to be more important than the loader and turner, that said I sure am not going to give up my loader nor turner either.
So much great info and insight! Thanks so much guys. And, I'm not taking it personally. I did ask and appreciate the candid responses.
A little background for why I want it on a trailer: Yes I only have 1 acre, but my dad has 15, and he and his brothers have 130, so I don't think I'll be short on lumber. They also are an hour and 1.5 hours away respectively, so having it on a trailer would help when I need to move it down to those farms.
I hadn't really looked at the EZ Boardwalk JR (though I had heard of it). How does it compare to the Woodland, or Woodmizer for that matter? I noticed it cuts at an angle (it said something about how it pulls through the wood and is basically a finger push to get it moving). I wonder if that hurts the smoothness at all since it is pulling through the wood (forgive my ignorance if that is way off base).
How is EZ Boardwalk's customer service/support? I've heard great things about Woodmizer and Woodland Mills customer service/support so just wondering on this company too.
To answer where I live, I'm in Indiana (yes, home of Woodmizer...lol).
Quote from: jpschersch on March 22, 2018, 08:17:01 AMI hadn't really looked at the EZ Boardwalk JR (though I had heard of it). How does it compare to the Woodland, or Woodmizer for that matter? I noticed it cuts at an angle (it said something about how it pulls through the wood and is basically a finger push to get it moving). I wonder if that hurts the smoothness at all since it is pulling through the wood (forgive my ignorance if that is way off base).
How is EZ Boardwalk's customer service/support? I've heard great things about Woodmizer and Woodland Mills customer service/support so just wondering on this company too.
The EZ Boardwalk JR has a 30" width so it compares directly with Woodland Mills' HM 130, and is almost the same price. It cuts wider logs and is $3,000 less than the LT15 although the LT15 has a 19hp motor and cuts 17' logs! The EZ Boardwalk cuts at a 15° angle and it enters the end of a log gradually and does help pull the saw through the log but I consider this feature as a novelty and wouldn't base any purchase on whether the blade is angled or not. Sometimes the angled blade is a detriment, like when you saw into a white oak knot, and you actually have to hold the carriage back to prevent it racing through the knot.
EZ Boardwalk's customer service is excellent. They are located in Missouri and every time you call them you will be speaking to the Owner of the company. These mills are built by Mennonite farmers so don't expect glossy brochures or a high tech web site (I don't think they even host their own website due to religious concerns). But you should expect extra heavy steel construction and solid welds everywhere. All parts (except the roller guides) are available locally so you can repair anything yourself.
I like the suggestions by Jeff and justallen1 about spending extra money on a trailer instead of a trailer package for the mill. A mill that is sitting on the ground is much harder for someone to steal in the middle of the night.
I think all of the mills you are looking at are great mills and you're going to be happy with any of them. Have fun!
I put my woodland mill on a trailer that I made
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33477/P4010063.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1396734854)
on it's way to the paint shop the frame is 2x4 x1/4x20ft tube with 6 screw jacks on it
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33477/DSCN0518.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1432334783)
the little tractor is a must
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33477/DSCN0687.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1456663938)
some times thier a little to big so i get this out
So the gentleman who had the custom mill sold it the day before I was going to check it out. Probably for the best.
I've been looking at the EZ Boardwalk JR and it is very tempting. I'm still trying to decide if the cost will outweigh the need...or vice versa.
Also need to build my shed so I have a place to store it.
Just my crazy way of thanking, but if you have to buy lumber to build that saw shed, well that would go a long way towards the price of a basic mill.
Right you are. That's the big debate with my wife. If I have a mill, I can cut my lumber for framing and supports. If I don't, I have to buy that and the cost gets much more. Lol
Grandpa always said you get what you pay for.
Quote from: jpschersch on March 25, 2018, 07:33:21 PMAlso need to build my shed so I have a place to store it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47680/20180308_161100.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522028653)
The EZ Boardwalk has a flat top so you can put your own roof on your sawmill. My roof is made of two 7 foot roof panels (R panels) so it measures 6x7'.
I can't believe how dry it keeps the sawmill!
Skipper, do you leave yours on the Wheel/Axel while cutting instead of removing them and lowering to the ground? Do you use some kind of levelers (other than what comes with it)? That's a great idea w/ the roof! I showed my wife and she nodded...which means she's thinking about it, haha!
Thanks for your response!
Joe
The traveling roof is what I started out with...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/traveling_roof.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1522066101)
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 21, 2018, 02:12:12 PM
If your a person that could build your own mill then I would look into it. If not buy a factory made one.
x2. A simple mill can be repaired by someone with reasonable mechanical skills. I see both well built and not well built band mills.
If you don't have long term plans then consider what you can get for resale value. Your 'cost of ownership' is the difference between what you paid and what you can sell it for. Take a stab at figuring that out.
If you buy and sell right you could end up with owning a mill for only the cost of maintenance and expendables.
I would think a WM mill would be easier to resell.
Quote from: jpschersch on March 26, 2018, 08:02:32 AM
Skipper, do you leave yours on the Wheel/Axel while cutting instead of removing them and lowering to the ground? Do you use some kind of levelers (other than what comes with it)? That's a great idea w/ the roof! I showed my wife and she nodded...which means she's thinking about it, haha!
I can saw with the wheels on (using the original levelers) if I use 8" beams under the levelers. I'm going to remove the wheels to make it harder to steal, but I'm a little busy building my wife a new 2,500 sq. ft. house!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47680/20180326_103704.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522113172)
Don't show your wife this picture or she'll want a new house too!
Looks great Skipper! Showed my wife and she liked it :)
When you leave it up on the wheel/tongue, how do you get those larger logs up? Do you have ramps? or a winch or something? Thanks so much for the info so far!
Joe
Quote from: jpschersch on March 27, 2018, 09:32:40 AM
When you leave it up on the wheel/tongue, how do you get those larger logs up? Do you have ramps? or a winch or something? Thanks so much for the info so far!
I have only loaded my sawmill with my 80hp tractor. I welded chain hooks on my forks and I much prefer to load logs suspended by chains at two places...I can gently lower log until the big end touches a bunk, get off tractor and shim under small end to account for log taper. I don't like to load with the forks under the log because the EZ Boardwalk bunks just are not high enough for that and you have to roll the log off the forks in an uncontrolled manner and that gets really exciting in a bad way.
If I didn't have the big tractor I would have the sawmill mounted on the ground and use the winch to load logs (I haven't actually done that yet). I do use the winch to turn the big ones and it works great for that! I recommend that whichever mill you buy, make sure that you get a log loader/turner winch. The winch will solve so many problems for you that would be impossible without a tractor or hydraulics on your mill.
Quote from: Skipper11A on March 27, 2018, 10:31:18 AMIf I didn't have the big tractor I would have the sawmill mounted on the ground and use the winch to load logs (I haven't actually done that yet). I do use the winch to turn the big ones and it works great for that! I recommend that whichever mill you buy, make sure that you get a log loader/turner winch. The winch will solve so many problems for you that would be impossible without a tractor or hydraulics on your mill.
When you say "the winch", does the EZ BW JR come with a winch? I didn't see that in the pictures. I did see the "log turner" on the price list (can't really find any pics...) and am wondering if that is a definite purchase if I get this thing? Or is there a different brand that works better/cheaper or recommendations from you guys!
Any other recommendations on what are necessities if going with the EZBWJr? I'm thinking Mill, Trailer package, 10 pk of blades (or should I go with another brand? I've read a couple threads where people go with an off brand that is cheaper but basically the same blade?), Extension (possibility, but maybe not needed), and log turner. Also, 60" logrite I think I've read is a must...and probably a shorter one too?
Joe
Welcome to the forum. I have the EZ Boardwalk 40 with the trailer kit, 8ft extension, and log turner. I then started to modify it when it was delivered. I am working on some other mods. soon, but I am currently on a portable sawing job been cutting four the past 5 weekends. I f you have any questions pm me.
f350rd
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43882/thumb_P1010004.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1495231027) (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=43882&pid=226363#top_display_media)
carriage lift
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43882/thumb_P1010003.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1495231011) (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=43882&pid=226361#top_display_media)
carriage drive
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43882/thumb_P1010005.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1495231006) (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=43882&pid=226360#top_display_media)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43882/thumb_P1010006~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1495219733) (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=43882&pid=226348#top_display_media)
log turners installed
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43882/thumb_P1010001~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1495219712) (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=43882&pid=226344#top_display_media)
controls for drive and carriage lift
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43882/thumb_P1010002~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1495219708) (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=43882&pid=226343#top_display_media)
main control panel
Quote from: jpschersch on March 29, 2018, 01:20:43 PMAny other recommendations on what are necessities if going with the EZBWJr? I'm thinking Mill, Trailer package, 10 pk of blades (or should I go with another brand? I've read a couple threads where people go with an off brand that is cheaper but basically the same blade?), Extension (possibility, but maybe not needed), and log turner. Also, 60" logrite I think I've read is a must...and probably a shorter one too?
I like your list. I would get an extension so you can cut ceiling joists for your wife's new house. About the blades....I don't know where you live or what kind of trees you have. EZ Boardwalk carries Timberwolf blades which only come with a 10° blade angle which is fine for softer woods but will produce nothing but wavy boards in very hard and very wide logs. Every blade manufacturer says their 10° blade is a "General Purpose" blade but don't fall for that crap. I have resharpened all my blades to 4° and am able to cut flat boards in all types of trees. I resharpen my blades with EZ Boardwalk's sharpener and that thing really saved the day. You might consider adding the sharpener to your shopping list.
f350rd, nice mods on your sawmill. You've got some serious fabrication skills.
Thanks for the response Skipper! If not the EZ Timberwolf blades, which do you recommend? I agree on the extension, I think it is a must. Not sure if you saw the question, was wondering what winch you were talking about (or were you just talking about any ol' winch?). Does the EZ BW come with a winch? Thanks!
Quote from: jpschersch on April 02, 2018, 08:54:37 AMThanks for the response Skipper! If not the EZ Timberwolf blades, which do you recommend? I agree on the extension, I think it is a must. Not sure if you saw the question, was wondering what winch you were talking about (or were you just talking about any ol' winch?). Does the EZ BW come with a winch? Thanks!
Let me clarify, Timberwolf blades are great blades! But if you're going to be milling very hard woods (Oaks, Pecan, Hickory, Mesquite) or very wide logs (24"+) You should buy blades with a 4° angle which will produce flat cuts. I don't have another blade manufacturer to recommend because I don't think it really matters, I assume they are all making great blades, Just make sure it fits your sawmill and has the appropriate blade angle for your species/size of wood. One more thought on blades, I would NOT buy the high dollar carbide or stellite blades, instead, I would buy the lowest grade (cheapest) and a resharpener with a diamond wheel, and sharpen them yourself. I took a chance on a sharpener with diamond wheel and it really saved the day for me when I had to figure out how to produce flat cuts in extremely hard woods with 10° blades (The answer is that I was able to resharpen my blades to a 6° then to a 4°angle). With a manual mill, I can feel instantly when the blades begin to lose their sharpness. I usually keep that same blade on my mill and use it to square the next log until all the bark is off, and then resharpen the blade before I start making the important cuts.
You need to tell us where you live and what species of trees you will be milling so that we can provide much better advice on your sawmill and blades.
About the winch....I would not buy a manual mill without the winch. The winch does the same job as a hydraulic loader, and a hydraulic log turner, only without the hydraulic part. I'll take some pictures of my winch and post them in an separate post.
Sorry, I thought I had said before. I'm in Indiana. I have a lot of Ash, will probably be cutting some Poplar, Walnut, etc. Indiana species.
Thanks for the note on the re-sharpener and winch. Looking forward to your pics!
Thanks again,
Joe
When I bought my EZ Jr. I got 4 of the Timberwolf blades and they work just fine. Problem for me was they are $25 a piece. I buy packs of blades from Kasco that I think are about $15 a piece and do just as well.
Most definitely figure out what blades are right for what you are sawing!!!! Not thinking about it, I put an apple log on the mill using a 10 degree blade and between using the wrong blade and the blade already sitting at an angle, it sucked that blade into that log so fast that the blade took a dive, BADLY!
When sawing with the correct blade it can be done with a couple fingers and I can definitely feel when it's time to put on a fresh blade.
I believe what they are calling a log turner can also be used to parbuckle (load) logs onto the mill.
I think the only time I've pulled my mill was with my 4-wheeler, so I shouldn't say a thing about the trailer package, but with the 4-wheeler I thought it felt "tippy" as all get out. My advice is to ask a few of the EZ Jr. owners their opinion and go from there. In my opinion you have to haul the lumber that you saw with something right, that's $400 towards a trailer. :) ;D
As for needing parts, everything can be locally sourced. I talked with Stanton at EZ Boardwalk about getting an extra set of blade guides and he says to go to the local parts house, buy the bearings and press them in myself. I mention the guide bearing because it's a small bearing going really darned fast. If I had any smarts I would already have extras on hand.
Hope this helps some.
Here is the EZ Boardwalk 40 winch in the upright position
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47680/20180402_122303~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522691262)
Notice the J hook at the end of the wire cable.
To load a log from the ground: Cable goes OVER the top of the log, back UNDER the log, J hook comes back to the mill and is hooked onto the mill, winch then ROLLS log up ramps and onto the mill.
To turn a log that is already on the mill: Cable goes OVER the log, back UNDER the log, J hook BITES into the top of the log (You just created a flat surface on the top of the log with your first couple of cuts), winch then turns log AGAINST the two square tubes that are in the upright position in the picture.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47680/20180402_122334~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522691722)
These two square tubes are only used for loading logs (so they don't roll off!) and for turning logs (to turn against). That's all they're for, when you're ready to saw they swing down out of the way. For sawing, the dogs and clamps swing up TOGETHER (they're on the same shaft) to whatever height you need to clamp the log. Also, in this pic, notice the ladder type features welded on the side of every bunk. Those are for prying against with your cant hook so you can slide the big logs where you need them.
But this post is about the winch!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47680/20180402_111613.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522692945)
This pic shows how the winch is locked over the rail in its upright position. Also notice the square tubing used for turning the logs against are in the down position here.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47680/20180402_111735~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1522693195)
Here the winch is in the down position. It should be on the ground but I have the tires mounted so I end up walking around the winch or removing the winch completely which is really easy.
This winch works really well and I use it every time to turn the logs that are too big to turn with a cant hook, because the turning is way more controlled than using my tractor to turn them. If you buy a sawmill without a winch, you are going to have logs that are too big to turn and you will end up just flat sawing the whole thing. Then you get to reload all of your slabs onto the mill and try to edge them squarely. But with the winch, you can turn the big ones into square cants, decide the best ways to saw each log, and relieve stress (stress in the log).
To summarize: The winch gives you the capabilities of a hydraulic log loader and hydraulic log turner, but without the hydraulics! The ability to turn logs on the mill allows you to use advanced techniques that are normally out of reach for manual mills.
I have replaced my EZ hand crank winch with a wireless remote winch as part of my mill mods. My EZ 40 stays on the axle I install leveling jacks. I also have loading ramps when I use the loading winch. As for blades I use timberwolf blades 10 degree I don't really have any problems cutting whatever I put on the mill. I don't push my mill I have carriage drive on mine.
Quote from: f350rd on April 02, 2018, 10:18:58 PM
I have replaced my EZ hand crank winch with a wireless remote winch as part of my mill mods. My EZ 40 stays on the axle I install leveling jacks. I also have loading ramps when I use the loading winch. As for blades I use timberwolf blades 10 degree I don't really have any problems cutting whatever I put on the mill. I don't push my mill I have carriage drive on mine.
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but some one my questions are brought up here.
How difficult is it to install jacks to be able to level this mill without removing the axle/wheels? Do you use the kind that just U-bolt onto the frame, or did you weld them on? I'm interested in using an EZ40 as a primarily portable mill, so being able to leave the wheels on would be a time saver.
Did you fabricate log loading ramps? I don't see those for sale on EZ's website, but the concept seems simple enough to be able to make some myself. Thanks for all the great info, everyone.
Gator, do you already have a EZ 40? Like some of the things about the 40, including the 40" log capacity, and the angled saw head, which seems to make the saw pull into the log. Let us know what is happening with your mill.
f350rd, This is an older post, but I was noticing the pictures of the EZ Boardwalk 40 mill you posted and saw you have a chain log turner on that mill. I have never seen one on that type of mill and am wondering if it is something you built or is it an option that Boardwalk offers. It looks very professionally build if it is homemade. It would be great to hear about how it is working for you after a couple of years now. Thankyou for posting those pictures and sorry it took me so long to notice them. I am always looking for ideas for making devices for my mill that might make it work a little better. That looks like a good one.
GF
I put jacks on my EZ 40, very easy. I used 2x4 steel tubing for 3 crosspieces. Welded angle on the crosspieces and bolted them inside the frame rails. Weld jacks to ends of 2x4 steel. Be sure to use jacks with side handles, not top wind handles. Very sturdy, sets up quickly and do not have to remove trailer. Be careful how high you place the jacks so the blade guards will clear the top of the jacks. Wider you place the jacks the more stability you gain. I used swing-up jacks for quick breakdown and setup.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/61033/IMG_20201209_124346916_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1608087920)
Troy. I like the design of the jacks maybe enough to ponder my choice of a fixed position mill.
Nebraska- granted you need to load with a loader, but it puts the log at a comfortable height for unloading and working with the log. I find the benefits of leaving wheels on far outweigh putting it on the ground.