What is it, how is it measured, why is it important? I see it mentioned and have often wondered what it means but have never had the nerve to ask. Some of you fellas can be a bit brutal. :D
I just looked in the FF dictionary, It's not in there.
Of course my first thought is that it is the unintended consequence of tree felling gone wrong.
I looked it up on google. Something I all to often forget to do before I ask. Apparently it's the gap between the top od the piston and the jug at TDC.
Yep you use small soft soft solder through the plug hole and mike it to measure piston clearance, like using plastigage on a bearing.
I squished one with my tractor tire. Did not require a special gauge or any other tools :).
:D
Its the peripheral clearance between jug roof and piston top. You want it as close as you can get without contact. Its the number you need to work with for figuring out how much to lower your jug.
As a general rule, builders strive for 18-20 thousands. This raises compression, in which enhances torque.
I put a new p&c on my 346xp some time back. Didn't kow a thing about squish. It seems to run just as well as it ever did, 'cepting maybe when it was burnt up by somebody else. Should I even worry about checking it?
I'm simple, if it runs good, I call it good👍😊
Quote from: LeeB on March 23, 2018, 10:45:38 AM
I put a new p&c on my 346xp some time back. Didn't kow a thing about squish. It seems to run just as well as it ever did, 'cepting maybe when it was burnt up by somebody else. Should I even worry about checking it?
Certainly no need to as long as its running good. During a build I check it every time if I'm not using all OEM parts. And even if I am, its a cheap insurance policy. Takes very little time. If your using AM parts, the squish band can be anything. Mostly though on the wide side - 40-50 thousands and more. Even to the point of the saw not starting at all with such low compression. Very hard to go wrong if you stick with OEM.
It was all OEM. Bought from a member in the biz.