I recently read a discussion on the the use of epoxy or any type of filler ( plastic) in high end slabs for table tops etc. They stated that since the piece is constantly moving any of these fillers will raise up or down over time. This basically affects the value and quality of the wood. They encourage leaving it as "nature" made it.
I have no experience yet using it but eventually will be. I'm interested in others opinions. Any truth to this? Or a easier sales technique?
There is some truth to it but if your wood is at the right moisture content when you do the filling, it won't be a big problem.
I fill the hole with 90 percent sawdust and glue and stain it dark like a knot then use the epoxy.
Quote from: Tin Horse on March 30, 2018, 10:37:10 AMThey encourage leaving it as "nature" made it.
While I can see the point for a purely decorative piece, having a large hole or large crack in the middle of a dining table isn't really practical.
I've left the knots in on some of the window valances I've made from air dried ash .They are good and solid but it sure does make my planer grunt when it hits one .
Filling holes in eastern red cedar works like a miracle. In filling end splits on any wood could make it worse.
Another way to look at it, the grain in a knot is running basically perpendicular to the grain of the slab so as the slab or timber changes moisture content the knot wood is proud or recessed compared to the surface. Nature made trees to hold up leaves closer to the sun, anything else is downright unnatural.
I use epoxy. I will continue to. If your slab is dried down to the conditions it will be in and then filled, you really shouldn't see any movement.
A good video I just watched shows a product for filling larger areas. I want to try it because filling with regular west systems epoxy you have to do a little at a time for it to not bubble/overheat/cloud.
DIY EPOXY BASICS FOR COMPLEX PROJECTS - YouTube (https://youtu.be/UlBPN3z_N-E)
Another trick that will make the purists crazy is to fill the voids with bondo , then top that with epoxy or a Dutchman.
What is a Dutchman?
A quick story to illuminate and color the subject. My great-grandfather, a Confederate veteran, worked part-time at a country sawmill in Georgia. As he was desirous of building a dining/kitchen table for my great-grandmother, he culled several perfectly clear slabs from the flood of SYP boards he handled. During the winter, he used these boards to secretly build a large table. The table was presented to the family at the Easter gathering. His wife made the observation that she "preferred knotty pine". In an effort to please her, he carefully painted nine large and small pine knots on the surface of the table. She was very pleased with his efforts, and the table became a fixture in their home for many years. My uncle, who was a small boy during this time, swears that upon his return from his service in WWII, he noticed that one of the painted knots had loosened and fell out of the table top. Just telling it like it was told to me. Regards, Clark
Our hardwood floor is what was called "cabin grade" the absolutely cheapest oak flooring you can get, including small knot holes. You end up loosing a lot when installing because of all the really bad defects that must be cut out, but the knot holes I conquered. Just like Dan suggested, with bondo. Once set, I sanded the floor as you normally would, then I used colored felt markers to draw in and color knots and defects on top of the bondo. We then finished over top of that. I can not tell you or show you where they are, because I have forgotten, but there are at least a dozen spots and they are absolutely unfindable.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 01, 2018, 09:17:53 AMWhat is a Dutchman?
In woodworking I've always taken that as another name for inlaid butterfly key, but maybe its more general than that, other types of patches.
A Dutchman is a patch of matching wood to cover a defect or hole.
I am far from a woodworker. As I say,my wood working skills stop when the tree hits the ground. ;D
We bought what would be called a small Murphy table at an auction. The bottoms corners was rotted. Should of seen her face when I sawed the corners off. Should of seen her face when I used bondo to make the corners. Should of seen her face when I painted the corners. That's all I needed. I can't even tell now.
Happy Birthday Tin Horse!
Now I need to try epoxy and some bondo to see how they each work!
At this point I'd just like to thank everyone for their time and effort with this. I have worked with a similar epoxy to the video but only to top coat. Refurbishing restaurant tables and bar tops with good results. ( worked for a casino for about 13 years).
I'm now anxious to try dyed in fills.
Dan,
Thanks for the info.
Quote from: Ianab on March 30, 2018, 05:23:31 PM
Quote from: Tin Horse on March 30, 2018, 10:37:10 AMThey encourage leaving it as "nature" made it.
While I can see the point for a purely decorative piece, having a large hole or large crack in the middle of a dining table isn't really practical.
Ian,
The hole my be the perfect solution to keep the salt, pepper and marmite shaker from getting knocked over. :D
Come to think of it the hole could make clean up easy. Sit a garbage can under the hole and push, swipe the un usable left overs etc into the hole and garbage can!
My dad had a big plywood table made to order and he had the builder put a molding rim all the way around it about 1/2" high just so spills would not run off on the floor. I think he talked about but don't remember if he ever drilled a hole in one corner for cleanup.
In a cedar floor those could be registers. :laugh: