we just broke the third window in the Bobcat 331.
the first was the front window
and the last two are the top eyebrow window, it is curved.
total = about $500
thinking of replacing the eyebrow window with a sheet of steel, almost never use it.
and adding metal window protection on the 4 sides of each excavator.
what should i use?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1524085204)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/IMG_8007.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1524085130)
I would replace it with Lexan. You shouldn't need steel guarding unless you're using it in the woods. Our processors and forwarders have Lexan windows with no guarding at all, it's extremely tough and it doesn't shatter.
yes they both will be used in the woods.
the Bobcat 331 with a turbosaw
the Bobcat E80 with the Arbro 400 harvester head.
as the glass brakes i will replace with Lexan, or better.
the window bars are what i need advice about.
1/2 inch re-bar ?
box steel
vertical or horizontal or both.
how far apart, 1 to 3 inches?
I guess what I'm getting at, is that if you use Lexan, projectiles just bounce off and you shouldn't need steel reinforcement. The processors have limbs and other debris falling on the windows all day long, and I've never seen one break. I've seen pictures where a processor operator fed a stem into the cab, and the lexan finally broke. I'd have to look at a buncher or something that has guarding on it for measurements.
I'd do at least 1/2" AR2 is the name of the lexan you need, you need to build a cab guard just in case a top breaks out towards the cab. Our last cab guard was 4x4 tube full covered the cab front to rear as well guarding the sides, the belly pan, lower pans, and guarding the sides.
Demo excavators usually use 2" x 3/8 flat strip oriented like vertical louvers. You get good strength in the fore/aft direction and good visibility due to the thin strips.
Just a quick question are you in Oregon?
Quote from: Skeans1 on April 18, 2018, 10:36:21 PM
Just a quick question are you in Oregon?
yes, Glendale Oregon
I-5 Exit 80
saw this posting from 2015
skid steer glass door in Forestry and Logging (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=80958.msg1232173;topicseen#msg1232173)
the biggest tree i will cut is 16 inch.
anything bigger will be cut with a chainsaw
Do not use rebar. it is the most flexible weakest steel you can get. Ok maybe not that bad but it is intended to flex in concrete slabs it is not very strong at all.
the 2" x 1/4" would be good stuff. 3/8 just be a little more robust. Just remember if you make a nice stout cage around the glass whatever it is connected to may break. Don't make it to tough allow it to have some flex.
One issue with any of those ideas in Oregon you have to have a forestry approved cab for any Feller Buncher or harvester.
bummer that puts a damper on things. Any idea how to get it approved? Or does it have to be from a specific supplier?
Thank you for all of the advice. keep it coming. 8)
this is for personal use, not a business.
I will be 50 this year and my dad is 87. we plan to let the machines do most of the work for us. I will do any ground work that is needed.
we have 166 acres that consist of three tax lots zoned EFU ( Exclusive Forest Use ).
need to clear 14,000 feet for a perimeter fence line. the fence line will also be a fire brake. plan to fence each of the three lots
the land is hilly and wooded. on one tax lot we plan to open up for cattle pastures.
Just before we get the cattle we will have that lot re-zoned to allow livestock.
Skeans1 (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37446)
do you have any links to that info?
Im using a lot of rebar these days as metal is hard to come by out here. The 5/8 is actually pretty stout but under that i would only use for tension application. I made a truss under my little trailer from 3/8 and in that application its suitable.
2" flat strip vertical and a few pieces of 5/8 rebar going horizontal to locate it could make a good window frame. Id cut and stack the strips then drill 3/4" holes through it all in 3 or 4 places, then skewer the flats onto the rebar kabobs and weld them up on a flat table or floor. Weld an angle iron flange around the perimeter to bolt it to your cab or cage. You want a good inch or more of space over your glass so leaves and stuff can pass through.
How difficult is it to re zone land to allow cattle? Just curious what the logic is there.
Quote from: Southside logger on April 19, 2018, 02:46:18 PM
How difficult is it to re zone land to allow cattle? Just curious what the logic is there.
I was wrong. the land is zoned FF = Farm Forest
http://www.co.douglas.or.us/planning/Plan_docs/LUDO/ch3_5.pdf
called the county and waiting for a reply on the cattle
now back to the cab protection.
angle iron for the fame, then flat 2x that is how thick?
spaced how far apart?
my welding experience is from High School. they had a 1/3 wood shop, 1/3 metal shop, and 1/3 paper drafting (no computers at that time). the other 3 years i took wood shop.
will do a LOT of practice before i start the Cab Protection.
The FOPS on my buncher and skidder have 3 x 4 rectangular tubing for the frame, after having one or two sticks break off and rock a 48,000 lb machine like a Tonka toy I am glad it is not made out of anything lighter.
The E80 is 18,689 lb
the biggest tree i will cut is 16 inch
think "forest thinning", not log harvesting
A 16" oak log, 16' long is 1400 lbs. That falling at 32 ft/second / second, from 20' above you will crush your unguarded cab.
It's the rotten ones I have cut or bumped that come crashing down, it doesn't have to be one in your cutter.
Also consider what forces you could encounter if you grab something a bit too heavy and a bit too far out on a hill and flop your machine over. Suddenly you have 19,000 lbs on top of you.
Start with you forest and logging rule book.
A lot of places around the world now are - operator not following the rules results in no insurance, fines etc
Some places classify not much more than a twig or a little stick as logging now.
fair bit to read in here
Oregon Occupational Safety and Health : Division 7 : Current Final Rules : State of Oregon (http://osha.oregon.gov/rules/final/Pages/division-7.aspx)
Oregon Occupational Safety and Health : Roll-over protective structures : State of Oregon (http://osha.oregon.gov/Pages/topics/roll-over-protective-structures.aspx)
The onto the ROPS engineer and later Fab shop. (or bobcat dealer or aftermarket off the shelf front wire screen etc)
Probably be looking for Lexan MR10 with Margard 2 coating (UV protection) (same material has different names in different markets)
The Bobcat E80 should have a tag in the cab to tell the TOPS/ ROPS? rating etc and ISO numbers etc.
Most places allow no welding modifications on cab structures unless done by a correctly certified welder and approved/tagged/passed by an registered engineer before the machine can hit the trail. The cab rops etc have a time limit and require re-inspection for another tag.
In Oregon any practice of tree removal is industrial forest lands which would make it depending on the year of the machine subject for a complete cab change or not. Anything that enters the brush shovel, road builder, processor, forwarder, cat, skidder, Buncher are all subject to the rule.
Quote from: DDW_OR on April 19, 2018, 08:59:47 AM
Thank you for all of the advice. keep it coming. 8)
this is for personal use, not a business.
I will be 50 this year and my dad is 87. we plan to let the machines do most of the work for us. I will do any ground work that is needed.
we have 166 acres that consist of three tax lots zoned EFU ( Exclusive Forest Use ).
need to clear 14,000 feet for a perimeter fence line. the fence line will also be a fire brake. plan to fence each of the three lots
the land is hilly and wooded. on one tax lot we plan to open up for cattle pastures.
Just before we get the cattle we will have that lot re-zoned to allow livestock.
Skeans1 (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37446)
do you have any links to that info?
http://osha.oregon.gov/OSHAPubs/4932.pdf (http://osha.oregon.gov/OSHAPubs/4932.pdf)
That has what you need, no matter if you're thinning or not you want to comply with this last thing you want is the state down your throat.
As a side note have you set up the permits for the equipment to even touch the ground?
I cant believe you guys havent run your legislators into the ocean yet. Its right there.
We put that stuff in Mike not the state, you flop a big 100k shovel it's easy to see how a guy gets killed.
Check out building the custom excavator in Heavy Equipment Forums compact excavator section for some good guarding ideas
three years and still have not done it.
Life got in the way.
so back on it.
sounds like custom work is needed.
Bobcat 331, 8,000 pound
Bobcat E80, 18,000 pound
the good thing that happened during the 3 years is Weyerhaeuser marked my west border, and half of my north and south borders. they sold their land.
the other half's are not Weyerhaeuser property.
Look under heavy equipment armor or AFE. Advanced Forest Equipment. Same company. They are out of Idaho they specialize in excavator guarding and various other guarding also they where the pioneers of the disc mulcher. Ask for Micah Griffen