I've done numerous searches and learned a few ideas, but I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for sawing a 40" log on an LT15. I can put it on the mill and hit two side supports, but I will only hit 1 clamp. I need to invent some kind of clamp for the other end of the log. Long term I will be buying new style clamps and then move the older ones to the ends of the bed. I'm needing some kind of solution for this weekend. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
I would think 1 clamp would get the job done as long as it's hitting two backstops.
My LT40 does not have but one clamp which is ~centered between the side supports.
My clamps are right in line with the side supports. It would not put any pressure on the other end of the log. In the future I may install another clamp that is centered between 2 supports. That may work, but in the short term I need to come up with something.
I have made many cuts without the log clamped at all. Sometimes all that it needs is just a bit of support to keep it from turning. I would try btulloh's suggestion.
Also you could try laying a board or timber beside the log that both clamps would reach. You could even nail through the board and into the log for added support if you wanted to. A half inch of nail into the log should be enough to stabilize it.
The guy said it's 24 inches on the small end, but only 40 inches long. Maybe I will do as you guys suggest and just cut it in two cants and flip right away. I can lift the top one off with the tractor and then flip the bottom one. That will be more stable on the bunks. Then I can slab them.
The way that I learned to do it on the LT15 was to just say no :).
Short logs can tear up your equipment. Don't ask me how I know this. Not worth it for someones's pseudo firewood log unless it is family or friend.
This is what one guy brought me :-\. I eschew short logs that do not fit between the clamps.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_0464.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1330393459)
Thanks for the caution Danny. I'll consider that.
I have a new LT15 Wide and the clamps are located in odd location and are of no help with shorter logs, especially it the log is curved or has a crotch. I remedied this by cutting and keeping a 4x4 to lay against the side supports edge plates to clamp against. It is no fun to have a short log decide to move in the middle of a cut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51223/26209E55-8EA9-447E-99B8-53EB40AEF49C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1534440114)
That is same way I do it SmithKp. Long piece of ply wood on deck and 2 2x6 long boards log is in the middle. This a practice piece of fire wood my friend gave me I had other plans than to burn it up .
Make a short log holder like this one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13397/short%2520log%2520clamp.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1266633114)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1860.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1390439856)
Sometime sawing short stuff is worth the effort. I sawed this for my long lost friend and FF member @Dodgy Loner (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=5533).
Glad to see I am not the only one who will saw a 1 foot log. I just gotta know what is on the inside and those short pieces sell pretty fast.
It is fairly well known that I am in the sawing business so if a customer has something that he wants sawed....I will saw it. ;)
Quote from: Smithkp on August 17, 2018, 01:45:13 PMI just gotta know what is on the inside
Me too.
I usually find something interesting.
Then I swear I'm going to stop messing with short logs.
Until the next time.
I saw shorts on an hourly basis with a 1 hr minimum.
I like sawing short logs because handling is easy, clamping is the challenge. If I have to build something special to clamp a short log, that's billed hourly.
So in the end, I advise a customer to bring plenty of short logs because it will cost as much as $150 for the first hour of sawing. That's a subtle way of discouraging short logs from the casual guy wanting to build knick knacks from the gum tree tha sprouted next to the a/c unit....
I'm gonna go out there and see if I can come up with something for it tomorrow.
Well,I had a great plan on how to cut the short log. I was going to clamp some 2x4s to the frame and not use the steel back supports. I got a 2x4 and drilled holes in it to fit over the log clamps. Then I ran some lag bolts thru that to be able to dig into the log. As it turned out, we hit 3 nails while sawing the first 2 logs and the guy didn't want to risk buying anymore blades. He left the short log with me. I will probably risk the blades at some point.
Nails to boot :).
If I can clamp it, then I will mill it. Usually folks will have one or two pieces from a home place or some special place and want it milled to make something to pass down to their family. I like helping out, but as stated above, hitting nails takes the joy out of it.
Quote from: Wallys World on August 17, 2018, 12:05:28 PM
Make a short log holder like this one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13397/short%2520log%2520clamp.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1266633114)
Wally, I made something similar but with only 1 bar clamp in a frame that the log sits on . When I am cutting my log flops like crazy. Does yours?
I have actually revised my design 2 times and still not happy with it. Currently it sits in the corner waiting for me to decide what I want to do.
This may not be a solution for you but when I built my mill I have three bunks that are a foot apart this lets me saw bowl blanks from the butt cut offs I can cut a 2' block. My mill is labor intense ;D "manual"
Lynn Dodgy Loner is not lost. I met him at Jakes project this year and the pleasure was all mine.
WDH is correct , just say no. I just cut a dozen cookies this after noon for a friend after saying im done with cookies.
It's not unusual for me to cut a 5 footer and curved on my 2014 LT15. Two backstops and one clamp on the front at all that's needed for the first cut. The saw will drive the back end of lot against the backstop.
Once you make your first cut, you can flip your log and either use the backstops at a lower level, or not at all and use the steel nubs on your cross bars. Removing the first cut and putting the log flat face down will usually be good enough to hold with the nubs. If not, take a second cut or cut down to the backstops and then flip it. Sometimes if you have a branch knot or something sticking out the drive side, you might have to use a scrap 2x4 to space the log away from backstop a little or jammed between the nub and log. You'll get the feel for doing shorter stuff, and what you have to clamp and don't have to. Watch your feed speed as it affects how much pressure is driving the log towards the stops.
Also get a metal detector/garret security wand to find those nails before your band does. Have a sharp chopping axe to quickly expose the nail to remove it. If it's walnut, I'll do this and keep going. I fought an Ash log last winter that has 22 nails scattered all around and up and down the log. No pattern. It didn't beat me though! I had to do a lot of chopping, but I won.
I have never won when there were 22 nails :).
Quote from: slider on August 20, 2018, 04:54:53 PMLynn Dodgy Loner is not lost.
I know Al, but he has been absent from the FF since: March 03, 2017, 01:20:18 PM. He needs to account for himself.
He and Casie just had a new baby.
Ok, but 18 months is a loong absence. ::)
Bwstout, I'm gonna get some new log clamps and then relocate the old one to the end of the mill where there are 2 log stops closer together then I can cut short logs on that end of the mill. Plus the bunks are closer together right there.
Yes sir that is the way mine is except I have it in the center but that was by designed probable the only thing that stayed the same throughout the build. ;D