Hi ya Guys
now here's a question for ya's ..chain oil i know my saws will run on almost any thing but i have a mate with a small stihl and has been told it will only run on "stihl cutter lube" something to do with the oil pick up i think ...would this the same with the small top handle stihls ?? i ask the last one as i'm looking at a small top handle to do tree pruneing during the winter and i can't get the dolmar 3400 as it's got no spark arester in it (so i'm told) so by kiwi no saw can be imported with out them so i got to look at another brand
thanks
JD
Your mate is mistaken. Bar lube is bar lube. :P
Hi ya's
Yea thats what i thought too ..i have run all kinda brands in my dolmars and in other saws too and never had too many probs ,maybe in winter it get's a tad thick but back to the story this guys stihl (don't know the model # kinda look's like a cross between a top handle and a norm saw IE the rear handle is up a bit higher ) anyhow the oiler was playing up they said it was becouse the wrong oil used in it (to thick i guess) they said ya can only use stihl oil as it's better and more refined ... just thought i'd ask on here and see if it's true
catch ya
JD
Yes, bar lube is bar lube...........if it´s not biologic. THEN it´s asphalt when mixed to saw dust.
It was used on Amerika-Sågen before I get her home. Took me some hours to find more than one blade guide. :D
Swede
I have used 5w-30, 10w-40, 20w-50 (summer time), chain oil from the Home Depot, Husky Oil, and Stihl oil for both my bucking and mill sawing. Once, I even used "used" motor oil I had drained out of a car when I realized VW Rabbits are not suppose to use 5w-30 (10w-40 instead) mixed with MMO.
The only difference I saw was in the weight of my wallet, I could not discern any bar, chain, or saw wear. The OEM saw oils tend to be lighter then motor oil out of the bottle, but, once the saw has been running and soaking up heat from the engine they all flow smoothly and fling off the end of the chain.
I usually try to use the OEM oils since they probably contain less harmfull chemicals for the enviroment, but, as for wear or damage to the saws, I do not worry about it.
bar oil is just that.. i like the tackifyers.. variations mite dependon temp ,wood being cut etc.. the main thing is does the saw cut at its best..if not you can thin it or whatever..the new high rpm saws need plenty lube to cut rite.. just play around with it..
I've been buying Poulan bar oil by the gallon at Wal-Mart. With sales tax it's $3.00 a jug out the door. Last gallon I bought at the saw shop cost almost double that.
Here in Minnesota, I usually buy from any equipment dealer that carries both Winter and Summer grades of bar oil. They usually have a house brand and I cannot tell the difference. I use quite a lot in the harvester and you find out fast when you do not have oil in the reservoir and the chain starts to smoke. If you use summer grade on very cold days, you will not use enough oil and the reverse is true in summer. I have noticed that some farm supply stores may have gone to a lighter (winter) grade year round and that is OK if you readjust your oiler to stay consistent. With a chain saw, you are about right when you empty the fuel tank and oil tank at the same time.
Gary