Hey guys
I not necessarily asking because I don't know but I'm curious as to what or how you deal with your blades for storage. If hanging your blades I'd love to see some pictures of your hangers or storage boxes. I made a box for transporting them and just made some hangers today for my sawmill shed. I'll try and remember to grab a picture tomorrow.
Most of all I'm interested to see some other ideas you might have.
Thanks look forward to hearing about this
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/band_storage1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477277548)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/0213181646_a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1518570685)
Blade Can in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=76890.0;all)
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Westcoastct!
Thanks chuck white glad to of found a place with such a vast knowledge base to use as a resource!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33477/DSCN0764_28129.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1464866018)
Ihave close to 150 hanging in my little shop
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33477/DSCN0765_28229.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1464866127)
AND it's warm in the winter
I hang them like that and store in flat pack boxes for transport to resharp.
BTW what a nice clean shop space!
pete
It was ;D ;D ;D
I leave re-sharp blades in the flat box from WM till I need them then I put them in the appropriate flat box below that I use to store and transport to the customer site. I hang my blades in use on a nail in my shed. I'm embarrassed to take and show that picture.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_0379~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1544624993)
Frame of the band storage box
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_0387~4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1544625050)
Finished box with band. I also keep my spare belts in here.
Zip tie white when done using and taken off mill. Hang on big hook in garage and new blades stay in box. When a box empties blades on hook go to resharp service in PA.
I just fetch them one at a time from the 15pack woodmizer box as I need them. On the wall I have two simple brackets to hang 1) the dull bands and 2)metal strike bands. When I get 15 dull bands I'll pack them up in the wood mizer box to send back to resharp. When I get enough metal strike bands I'll sit down and go over the teeth with a file to know off any burr/curl created by the metal strike. I'll examine the teeth and any bands that I know are junk will get tossed in the scrap pile. Then I'll box up 15 of the metal strike ones that were filed and looked ok and send to resharp.
WV Im going to steal your box design! those look amazing!
Great set up guys!
A little off topic but I only have experience cutting with 10 degree blades and find they work great in the majority of wood I cut. but looking for some insights about 7, 9 and 13 degree blades when to use them and types of wood to use them. I find the 10s really don't cut oak that well. maybe its the 1 1/4' blades ive been using. I will be switching over to 1 1/2'' in January. I have already bought my blades and rollers but just trying to use up the last of my 1/4s
I have never had the opportunity to have someone explain the various types of blades and why so would be great to get a bunch of advice. thanks
here is a poll i created
what degree bandsaw blade in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,95785.msg1477473.html#msg1477473)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22539/rps20181212_233542_585.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1544686529)
Quote from: Westcoastct on December 13, 2018, 12:55:50 AM
WV Im going to steal your box design! those look amazing!
Just PM me for the address to mail the check. :D :D :D
They are just 1X1 stickers for sides with about 6" corners (Square a 1X6 then cut in half on a diagonal). I think they are 34" X 36". I first made then 4" thick and had bands on both sides but was too heavy so I rebuilt for one roll of bands. The rope handles on the open end close the box when you lift. The piano hinges were about $5 set at Lowes when I got them. You can nail a couple of cleats in the middle about a couple of inches apart that serves the same purpose as the metal clip and probably easier to load and unload.
Good luck and use them in good health. Stay safe.
Redbeard and goose63 2 clean and neat shops!!
Such shops are a sign of a sick mind, and I wish I had one, a clean neat shop but not the sick mind.
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on December 13, 2018, 03:52:19 PM
Redbeard and goose63 2 clean and neat shops!!
Such shops are a sign of a sick mind, and I wish I had one, a clean neat shop but not the sick mind.
pete you should see it now it's big mess so with any luckI may not have a sick mind ;D ;D ;D
Read the part about storing your box blade in a truck bed while raining...blades quickly become a different color so this should be avoided.
New or newly resharpened stay in the WM box. Dull ones get coiled up and hung on a padded hook thing out under the shed. Most of my metal strike blades wind up in the trash or given to someone that makes paring knives out of the blades. They make a real good short bladed knife. Longer not so much.
I've been sawing mainly Douglas-Fir with quite a bit of Western Red Cedar on the side. 10° blades work great for these species. I've used the same blades for Aspen, Birch, and Lodgepole Pine with good results.
Once in a while I got a Spruce log sent my way and 10° blades did not work well at all. I switched to a 7° blade for this species and it made a huge difference.