Whats anybody using to turn them without marking.i cannot have marks or dings on them.a cant dog works ,until you get to where you are gonna touch a planed face.then its muscles .small stuff aint bad yesterday full 7 by full 12s.kicking my butt by days end. Iusually work alone.(i prefer it)
I sometimes tip them with a forklift and finish the roll by hand.this takes way too long.
Has anyone invented a padded cant dog or some type of strap or anything.your thoughts appreciated.
My tracks at knee height and i can do a 20 by 20 up to 40 feet long max.although nothing that big yet lol
A 3 or 4 foot looped load strap and a bar to turn. Mine is Hickory. I did break one on a big timber. I typically turn cants by hand If I can and my off bearer helps me. I only use the strap when it's too big to do by hand with the both of us.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/Timber_lever4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1239761154)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/Craig_solution.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1239898229)
I think this second pic was drawn by Jim Rogers.
Could you end dog them, lift and rotate like a rotisserie? Or cut them a bit long and turn from the ends using a cant hook?
I usually like to do the opposing faces first like on a 6 by 12 to avoid cranking up and down so far.i like the load strap.i also saw at bottom of my post "similar threads"i saw a pony clamp .i wonder if i could modify one with wood on it or padding.white pine dents easy
Quote from: Brad_bb on December 15, 2018, 09:53:57 AM
A 3 or 4 foot looped load strap and a bar to turn. Mine is Hickory. I did break one on a big timber. I typically turn cants by hand If I can and my off bearer helps me. I only use the strap when it's too big to do by hand with the both of us.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/Timber_lever4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1239761154)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/Craig_solution.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1239898229)
I think this second pic was drawn by Jim Rogers.
Nope not me.
Jim Rogers
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/20180716_101252~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1544904472)
Last summer on a job site the customer gave me one of these tools to use to roll over 10x10 posts. I didn't get a picture of the brand name of it but you could use something like this and add some wood pads to the brackets.
Jim Rogers
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on December 15, 2018, 03:09:19 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/20180716_101252~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1544904472)
Last summer on a job site the customer gave me one of these tools to use to roll over 10x10 posts. I didn't get a picture of the brand name of it but you could use something like this and add some wood pads to the brackets.
Jim Rogers
That looks similar to a pony clamp .thats kinda what am thinking.i also like the other ideas.im trying to mass produce these timbers,so speed is a factor too
How about making a special lever/pry bar. Think about a 2 prong pitch fork but made with some 1/2" square tube stock. Bend the tips up about 90° or so. Now place the fork so it straddles the log bunk and the tips of the fork (make them with a pivoting pad?) touch the near edge under the cant. Pull the handle back and it will lift the cant up. You might need to toss a block under the cant to support it while you re-position the fork. Once you get it high enough and near the balance point, you can roll it over by hand.
The strap works well. You've got leverage on your side. IF your load strap is a bit long for the perimeter of the cant, you just rotate the strap until you get it in proper position for your lever to be positioned properly.
Maybe I did draw that pic Jim, I just couldn't remember and I didn't want to post it and not give credit if you did.
Also, FYI I more often do the opposite of what is shown in the sketch. If I'm on the non-operator side of the mill I rotate it down towards me.