Have neighbors that just had a butcher block counter top counter tops installed in their kitchen. It is supposed to be teak. If it is , it looks like it is second growth , all close to the pith , wide growth rings , no color. Anyway , the finish is coming off with light cleaning , the installers have been of no help . They want to strip counter tops down and refinish. The wife ( boss ) is interested in an oil type finish that she can just reapply , husband is desiring more of a bar top epoxy . This is a " working " countertop , will be subject to normal use , not just a show piece. Being the local "wood guy " , I am supposed to know everything wood related. I . of course , insured that I do , but need time to access my vast store of knowledge. I can't be expected to recall everything on demand! ;D So I am now accessing my vast knowledge base ! Fortunately , my neighbor , is a smart guy , but " offline" . I can get all the credit and maintain my status as the " wood guy ". Can you'all " throw me a bone " ? Thanks.
I have built a lot of chopping blocks. I have always used a mixture of mineral oil and bees wax. Worked for me.
I've never worked with teak but it seems I remember reading that it has to be wiped with acetone before finishing to remove the natural oils. Could be why the applied finish is failing.
Never worked with teak, but like Muggs, I also use a mineral oil and beeswax finish for food safe stuff. I mostly turn wooden bowls and use it when it is going to be used instead of just displayed.
I found an article: https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-species-3/teak
It's an interesting read:
"
Finishing teak poses the most difficulty. The wood doesn't take stain exceptionally well, and traditional clear finishes (except lacquer) can be a problem. For instance, regular polyurethane won't set up. But two-part polyurethane, the type for marine use, will. That's why teak is frequently coated with a penetrating oil, such as tung or teak."
Thanks for the responses guys , and the extra effort Dan. I'll check the article out.
Oil/wax would be my choice also. All I use on boards,bowls and counters. If you don't want to fool with mixing there are products available, board butter or something like that. Epoxy would be pretty for a little while, till you started working on it. Another nice feature with the oil/wax is if you get a burn/cut/blemish you can sand it out and put more on the spot without refinishing.
100% pure tung oil. Here is some info and a source for the oil. Don't use the "tung oil finish" that you can find locally as it has very little actual tung oil in it.
100% Pure Tung Oil Wood Finish & Protection - Non-Toxic Wood Oil (https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/)
Thanks again , guys , and for the website, Danny. Merry Christmas , all!