Hello fellas,
I recently purchased a Timber Harvester 30HT25. I am new to sawmills and to this forum. The information in this forum has been quite helpful to me as I get started in this new adventure. The mill I purchased came up for sale at a good deal so I went for it. The Mill only has 100 hours on it so its like new. The down side to only having 100 hours was a lot of down time.
All of the fuel system was trash!!! I was able to clean and rebuild the entire fuel system and get the 24HP Linamar LX990 gas engine running like New.
Now to the tough part. I have been unable to find many details about the Mill since Timber Harvester is no longer in business. If anyone is familiar with how they numbered there mills for year model info etc I would appreciate it. My Serial # is TH0503973. It would be nice to at least know what year that was built.
The other issue is that the Drive wheel has two pillar block bearings. One bearing has a normal grease fitting that is good to go. The other pillar block has some other type of Lubrication mechanism that is broken off and I can not find a part number or a picture of another one so I can replace with the correct part.
Any help is much appreciated.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/54021/IMG_20190204_153618802~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1549328847)
If memory serves me right, your mill would have been built in May 2003(0503) and the 973rd mill they built.
I would take the plunger off and just replace it with a standard grease fitting. On those pillow blocks I've found over greasing them is just as bad as under greasing.
I used to give mine a couple pumps each day and was replacing them every 6-8 months.
Last set I put on I started just giving them a pump or two every 2-3 weeks. Been running that set about 2 1/2-3 years now.
The Timber Harvester is a great mill over all. I've been very pleased with mine.
Thanks for the reply. Can I ask how much you were running your mill to have to replace the bearings at that rate. I would say at most my mill may see 10 -20 hours a month for the first few months as I try to learn just what the heck I'm doing.
That is a battery operated lubber . They were used in industrial plants and could be set up to 1 year of use then throw away . Just put a grease fitting in its place . Over greasing will cause heat so if your bearings get hot back off on the amount of grease . They are sealed bearings . How often do you grease your front wheel bearings on your car ?
Probably over the course of a year I average 25 hours a week on the mill. I was definitely over greasing them. Just a couple shots a month at your expected usage will suffice. You don't want to pump grease in them until it pushes out the edges.
For your year I'm not sure what mechanism is used to raise and lower the head. Mine is a 97 and has a brass gear and steel worm. If that is what you have make sure to keep that lubricated. I just put some grease on it every couple days.
Some newer mills replaced that with a closed gear box. I'm not very familiar with that set up, but with either one you want to make sure you maintain them.
Pretty much everything else can either be found at a decent parts store or machined at a machine shop.
There's a few Timber Harvester owners around here so don't be shy with questions.
My Mill does not have the brass gears. It has the gearbox. I copied and saved a post I think from Tim about that box being MOTOVARIO.
Grease holds lubrication oil in suspension. When you over grease you never let the oil do it's job, you flush it away. Front wheel bearing comment is right on.
Here is the part you need. I put 2 of these on my mill because they no longer worked, these new units work great and they come with extra springs.
LUBE SITE 205 AUTOMATIC GREASE FEEDER 40 bucks on the amazon.
LUBE SITE 205 AUTOMATIC GREASE FEEDER *NEW NO BOX*: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014PP23IC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
On my TK I give those bearing 3 pumps every 40 hours if I remember, Seems to be working with over 14000 hours on the original bearings. Steve
Tyler found what you need. That looks like the original. As you add grease it pushes back on a spring that forces the grease forward at exactly the right pressure into the bearing.
I'll add that there are two, usually. One on each grease port.
You really don't need to grease those bearings much at all. It never drops the grease since that bearing is so large and spins so slow. Just don't go past the line on the housing and you almost never have to look at it again. Its been a year since I pushed anything into mine.
I had to replace my fuel system too. After that experience, I run it dry at the end of every day. And I like to race it to clean up and see if I can get done before it coughs and gives up.
There should be a shroud on the drive wheel that looks like this. Looks like it might be missing on yours.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12549/IMG_1218_-_Copy.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1549412996)
esteadle,
I have all the guards. Just have them pulled off for inspecting, learning, repair etc.....
Have any of you guys changed out the roller guides on this machine? Seems like it is pressed on. I see the litte snap ring retainer. I was curios if it will pop off with a simple gear puller or if i need to put it in a press. Also was considering ordering a new set from cooks. The bearings in mine are trash from sitting to long. Thoughts?
I never tried a gear puller but even with the shop press, I've had to apply quite a bit of pressure before it finally "pops".
Here is what you should have
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45473/20190206_081334.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1549459800)
The roller bearings are pretty easy to change out. I changed out my original for Cooks replacements about 2 years ago, and they work just dandy.
I pulled both the bearing and the shaft off of the mounts first, so I could work on them in the shop. Loosen all of the set bolts around it and then you can whack it from the back with a Punch to loosen the shaft from all the grime and rust in there.
To change the bearing, remove the retaining snap ring, and just some tapping on the back side with a wood block is all it needs. It'll slip off the zerk bolt after a couple of good whacks. Line up the grease hole when you put it back on and tap it back into place. Lock it in with the retaining ring and you're back in business.
Quote from: tylerltr450 on February 06, 2019, 08:30:19 AM
Here is what you should have
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45473/20190206_081334.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1549459800)
If your going to use those I'd add a guard,, seems like a broken band could break them easy. Steve
Quote from: ladylake on February 07, 2019, 06:34:08 AM
Quote from: tylerltr450 on February 06, 2019, 08:30:19 AM
Here is what you should have
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45473/20190206_081334.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1549459800)
If your going to use those I'd add a guard,, seems like a broken band could break them easy. Steve
Im not sure what you mean since the black on the left of the image is steel and on the right is the drive belts.
I was thinking the wheel on the right was driving the band, not the wheel from the motor. Steve
The wheel in the right side of picture is driving the bandwheel through that set of bearings. I wouldn't think a broken drive belt would break that lubricator but I'm sure it's possible.