Looking at adding another 4 foot extention and the leveling feet to the Lumbermate 2000. Need to cut some 24 footers soon. I see now that they sell stainless bed caps for the bunks. Are these worth it? It will cost $31 a piece plus shipping. I have cut some big logs on my Lumbermate and have noticed on one bunk that it has started to mushroom out on the top a little bit. I know that stainless is hard, but can it handle the big logs without deformation??
Jason
Jason;
Dont know how a lumbermate looks but I made my own U-shaped coverings in 3/32 stainless steel. Drilled some holes and fastened with 1/8 flathead bolts. Its also easier to turn a log now. Perhaps a lokal work shop can make them coverings for You?
Swede.
I think the biggest reason for the SS bed covers is to prevent iron staining in oak. I would not think they are heavy enough to help keep the beds from bending.
DanGit Swede. You and me are thinkin too much alike. We made our SS caps also. BTW, SS is not really hard, it's tough, because of all the nickle used to make it. SS will definitely make log turning easier.
A side note, wherever you put the screws through the SS caps, try to make a slit in the SS right above the drilled hole. If everything is not perfectly flat, when ya tighten the screws, you MIGHT cause the cap to raise up a bit from the screw pressure. Took me a while to figger out why WM does that. :) :)
I also agree with BBTom. Won't prevent bending of the bunks. For that, use smaller logs. ;D ;D ;D
smaller logs like the ones your leaning on there, harold? :D
i actually thought of stainless after i seen what that rust will do to a fresh cant. hard to keep rust off the bunks with the moisture in the shop. really dont want to put anything on there after i get them all shined up. i would need four peices, what did it cost you guys? like to see some pics..........off to harolds photo archive.
dontcha just love this new forum?
thanks
FREE, We LIVE in SS country. ::) ::) :D :D :D :D
do any of you guys have a picture of these caps?
Our mill is 3 hours away. Just picture in yer mind, whatever size yer log bunk are,, take a piece of Aluminum foil, and wrap it over the top of the bunk and about 1" down each side. They run the length of the bunks. Screw them fast from the side. Just use 1/16 or 3/32 material. Also, use 304 grade SS. That won't rust like 316 would. The acid in the logs will cause the 316 to rust a little. We have a special grade here, also, that is "Marine" environment grade ???
ok, I should be able to get some good stainless here too. so Oak just lying onn the bed for a little while will cause a stain?
Iron touching fresh sawed oak is instantaneous stain. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11021/Logstops.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11021/RotClampN%E4ra.jpg)
My SS covering pictures. ;)
Swede.
Swede,
I belive if you add image tags around the code in that last post, you will be all set. ;)
Tannic acid reacts with the iron to form a dark blue stain. I don't saw much oak anyway. I was mainly interested if anyone with a LM 2000 had the SS bed caps and how well they held up.
Jason
Just checked the Norwood site and did not see those caps as an option. Do you have to call or are they just an option on new ones? I have made oak caps but they are not as slick as ss for sure. I try to keep them waxed but it doesn't stay on for long. SS would be very good if your going to saw for profit.
The bedcaps are listed on their website under the price calculator.
Jason
Jason,
I have the LM SS bed protectors. They're pretty good. They are about 4" short from covering the entire bunk. I notched the corners so they would run right up against the welded stops, otherwise they stop 3/4" short, making edging narrow boards a bit off as the inside board would drop down 1/8" lower than the others.
Anyway, they work good for me, and yes they will protect the bunks from spreading, etc.
Otto