Just want to hear some opinions on what your favorite 2 stroke oil is. I have always run stihl ultra hp, but have recently switched to motul 800 2t and am a big fan!
8)
Husqvarna XP fully synthetic oil.
TSC El Cheapo but I do buy Stihl Ultra every so often
I was using Stihl HP Ultra, but the last batch I got was PoulanPro full synthetic cause I liked the bottle. I'm not too particular on brand, but I try to stay with full synthetic lubricants in everything. I wouldn't turn down a quality dino oil if it were given to me though.
My new 462 came with a tank of dino mix in it. Dealer claims the first tank will help break in? I buy the best other wise of the top brands.
Stihl Premium.
For my saws and such I've used Stihl and Echo, full synthetic, depending on where I am when I remember that I need some. For my 25HP Merc outboard I use Quicksilver synthetic. I'm going to trade in the Merc for a new Yamaha 4 stroke so any extra Quicksilver will make it's way through my older JD tractor.
Oh no - the oil wars return..... :D
I don't usually get in oil threads, but I will say that I have run Amsoil Saber in every air cooled 2 cycle I've had in the last 40 years. I started out running 100-1 in Yamaha SRX's in '77 and a SST 340 Snowjet the same. Nowadays, my cabin saw and trimmer get 50-1 mix and all the stuff around home here gets 32-1 because my old mowers and dirt augers have bronze bushings and need lots of oil.
No reason to change for me!
Quote from: tacks Y on March 08, 2019, 07:44:17 AM
My new 462 came with a tank of dino mix in it. Dealer claims the first tank will help break in? I buy the best other wise of the top brands.
As a matter of fact when I bought my Toro zero turn ,brand new which is something I seldom do .The dealer said to do the first oil change at 20 hours and use petroleum oil for another 20 .Then if I wanted switch to synthetic if I wanted changing every 50 hours .
I also at about the same time I bought the mower bought a new Stihl weed wacker .Nearly gave the owners wife a heart attack,me spending money .It came with a tank of mix gas at 50 to 1 with ultra and a pack of little bottles thrown in .Using same it was supposed to extend the warrantee .Which I did but not at 50 to 1.I don't know if one is really better than the other or not. It does however spark lively conversation at times . 8)
Burnt motor oil....maybe a cup to a gallon.
Burnt motor oil ???
Wow this thread exploded :D thanks for the info.
Well from past practice it really hasn't exploded yet but give it some time .Before too long the 100 to 1 crowd will show up followed by the race gas crowd then it will explode . :D It might even morph into a bar oil thread after a while .That could prove to be enlightening .
Al - there is always the option of mixing in #6 too.... :D
Why not bring up some bar oil ;) I haven't been too happy with stihl bar oil lately there is no reason for 3 different kinds. I think husky is doing it right!
I use canola in the winter, and whatever's cheap in warmer weather(TSC currently).
Amsoil Saber at 50 to 1 . Best part is the mosquitos leave as soon as I crank up the saw . That alone is worth $ 10.00 a quart .
You could fog for mosquitoes cheaper than 10 bucks a quart .SAE 30WT at 16 to 1 could do the same thing .I had a ragged out '68 El Camino that was a good fogger .Worn out 327 that got 18 miles per gallon of gasoline and 50 miles on a quart of oil .Back then the oil was 69 cents a quart so it wasn't so bad .
I had a couple like that :D Fill the oil and check the gas. After years in the repair shop I want the best oil I can get and go with the manufacturers recommendations. I use Stihl Ulta 'cuz that is what the local dealer carries.
klotz techinplate
Quote from: Rebarb on March 08, 2019, 11:30:42 AM
Burnt motor oil....maybe a cup to a gallon.
headscratch
On a serious note which I don't normally do there are some benefits of synthetic oil .I use it on all of my newer stuff and change it frequently .
By the same token I've torn down 50 year old saws that you know darn well were ran on outboard boat motor oil probably at 16 or 20 to 1 ratio and they were clean as a pin .Then 20 year old Stihls ran on modern mix oils that had black on the crank case which is in effect pyralighted oil which in effect is petro coke .Why I have no idea .
Crankcase oil is better than it used to be .In the 60's when I was a teenager it wasn't uncommon on those small block Chevys and Y block Fords to need a rebuild after 60-70 thousand miles .Now of days it's not uncommon to get 200 thousand miles .Yet on tractor engines ran on non detergent oils and would run almost forever those engines were clean as a pin and many didn't even have oil filters .Of course those were slow running engines with larger cooling systems than automobiles .
Quote from: Al_Smith on March 08, 2019, 07:16:00 PM. :D It might even morph into a bar oil thread after a while .That could prove to be enlightening .
I use the same oil in both, less confusing :D
What amazes me about oil threads, engine or bar is how many times cost comes up. Truth of the matter is most home/farm/hobby saws dont get used enough for it to matter. $50 a year for the best oils or $25 for baragin basement. Where my son in law works they buy 2 stroke oil in 55 gallon drums, the price per unit would make a common man faint but the cost to fill one of those little 3.2 oz bottles I buy would be pretty low,, anyone want to share a drum???? ;D
I had an old Ford truck that used some oil. Only got 8 miles to the gallon,did not matter if there was a almost a cord of wood in the back or empty. Ther was a stop sign at a bottom of a hill,speed limit only 35 mph. Someone would get behind me trying to do 45 mph. Down shift to a lower gear coming down that hill,they would back off and do 35. :D That think would smoke!!! Never went no more than an hour from home. And that hour could almost be counted on one hand for a year. It was a wood hauler.
I've got a buddy who is a tree trimmer/arborist who is very loyal to Stihl products . He cut a deal with a local dealer and buys bar oil by pallet load and mix oil by the case lots .I on the other hand buy bar oil by the gallon and mix oil by the 6 pack of little bottles . I do buy beer by the case though if that accounts for anything .
Then you've got still others who use old crankcase oil black as the ace of spades. Others who use a concoction of old gear lube that smells to high heavens thinned with salvaged hydraulic fluid and diesel fuel .Not to mention the cooking/salad oil crowd with or without the addition of "hidden valley ranch " dressing .I guess they all work just some better that others obviously .
Forever I've used the stihl fossil oil. Recently moved to the synthetic oil. I don't see any difference now but will later on maybe. Folks use all different kinds of oil. I guess If what a person uses is working no need to change.
ehp, if I could still find Klotz I would use it. I use to run it in my snowmobiles. If for no other reason than I liked the way it smells😁
The Stihl dino oil burns a little too dirty for me. Fire arrestor screens need to be cleaned too often to suit me. After switching to their Synthetic, I've not been into any motor since.
I don't know when they came out with the FS110, but I bought one when they first came out, and have one that has run almost full time since then, by one operator in the grass growing season. It's never had anything in it but non-ethanol, and Stihl synthetic. I told the guy running it that when it ever quits, I won't open it up. We'll just bury it.
Klotz Super Techniplate
Quote from: barbender on March 09, 2019, 09:02:09 PM
ehp, if I could still find Klotz I would use it. I use to run it in my snowmobiles. If for no other reason than I liked the way it smells😁
Here ya go:https://www.amazon.com/R50-Racing-TechniPlate-Ounce-Gallon/dp/B000GTZNIY (https://www.amazon.com/R50-Racing-TechniPlate-Ounce-Gallon/dp/B000GTZNIY) it does smell good! LOL
I used Koltz R50 for years and had great luck with it, I switched a few years ago to Motul 800 I think it burns cleaner than anything I've tried in the past. It can be used with low or octane levels up to 124. I have used it in my new saw and for years in my radio controlled 1/5th scale that has a 71cc reed motor that has been dynoed at 18hp at 16,000 rpm using a mix of 25:1 with 112 octane VP, I changed the head on the motor last year and the top of the piston still looked new. Lots of great quality oils to be had now days.
Quote from: Al_Smith on March 08, 2019, 09:21:43 PM
You could fog for mosquitoes cheaper than 10 bucks a quart .SAE 30WT at 16 to 1 could do the same thing .I had a ragged out '68 El Camino that was a good fogger .Worn out 327 that got 18 miles per gallon of gasoline and 50 miles on a quart of oil .Back then the oil was 69 cents a quart so it wasn't so bad .
This has been bothering me since I saw it. Now that the thread got bumped, I did the math. Assuming you were driving it in 1975, that 69ยข is $3.20 in today's dollars. Assuming a 20G tank @ 18mpg, that's an extra $23 every fill up. NOT A BARGAIN! :^P
I'm on my second gallon of mix using PoulanPro full synth oil, and my saws haven't blown up yet :^D
I run Amsoil Sabre at 50:1 The local saw shop says you can run it at 100:1 which I would never do but tells me that at 50:1 I should have very good protection.
I don't want to side track the conversation but I'm curious what you guys use for measuring out the 2.6 ounces? I poured oil from a 2.6 ounce bottle into a clear bottle and marked the level on the clear bottle. I then use the clear bottle for measuring and pour from it into the gas can.
I always use a ratio-rite cup, get the one with a lid on it. They work great. The mark on a old jar works fine as well.
I saved a Stihl 2.6oz bottle, and my intention was to fill that, then dump it in the gas. I've since gotten PoulanPro oil that has a squeeze and measure bottle. Makes it easier.
Quote from: lxskllr on March 28, 2019, 03:58:15 PM
I saved a Stihl 2.6oz bottle, and my intention was to fill that, then dump it in the gas.
The problem with that is that the bottles aren't anywhere near full when they have 2.6 oz in them.
QuoteI've since gotten PoulanPro oil that has a squeeze and measure bottle. Makes it easier.
Mu old squeeze bottle with the measuring part got thrown away by accident. I'm back to buying 2.6 oz bottles until I spot another measuring bottle I like.
Stole my wife's measuring cup from the kitchen
It is 125 mm which makes 40:1 when added to 5 litre's fuel
Shhhh ..Please don't let her know ;D
Quote from: John Mc on March 28, 2019, 04:06:14 PM
The problem with that is that the bottles aren't anywhere near full when they have 2.6 oz in them.
I like it a little richer than 50:1. I consider that a "not to exceed" number. I'm somewhere between 40:1 and 50:1. Might not make a difference, but it makes me happier. With the squeeze and measure, I measure out 3oz per gallon. Taking into account oil sticks to the sides(with 2.6oz bottles, I rinse with gas), I'm probably around 44:1.
Quote from: barbender on March 09, 2019, 09:02:09 PM
ehp, if I could still find Klotz I would use it. I use to run it in my snowmobiles. If for no other reason than I liked the way it smells😁
Imagine any place that caters to the off-road / dirt bike and ATV crowd would be the place to look for it.. always stocked in any such local places here!
Check amazon for gas oil measuring cups. They have several choices.
The Stihl in the orange bottle stinks pretty bad. I went back to Amsoil Saber. Just 50/1 . Burns real clean. I bought the Saber 3 yrs. ago and sais $12.10 plus tax. Now they are $16 plus tax . That is 30% in 3 yrs. ,,, but it's just transitory.
Opti-2
I donot use the R50 klotz oil, I use the techniplate oil, it blends with pretty much anything and have been running it for alot of years
I buy it by the case so couple cases at a time , cuts the price in about half and the place I get it from is not very far away
I got some Klotz techniplate just for old times sake (used to run it in sleds) it mixes nice and runs clean, smells kinda like fabric softener sheets. It costs about double what I get Amsoil Saber for so I'm back to that.
I buy 5 litre jugs of Motormaster mix oil. It's made by Irving mostly. But I have seen some of it from the USA. The USA stuff I have has no die, it's clear stuff. I run chainsaws and clearing saws on it, never blew a saw up yet. My chainsaw is mostly firewood and downed trees in the yard or road. My clearing saw works 40 hrs a week for 6 months, I use them for 7 years and get a new one, the old one becomes a spare saw. After awhile you turn one into a parts saw. I have 3 working clearing saws. ffcheesy
I think I get klotz for about the same price as saber if not cheaper than saber , I get klotz from the place where the other stores buy it from so its about half the price you would pay at a store
Klotz R50 for my chainsaws, ice auger, 2 stroke pre-mix outboards and pro stock drag race snowmobiles. Hasn't failed me yet. The race sled runs at 10,400 rpm and only in the winter..enough said. It's a 4 cylinder 800cc 2 stroke with 16.5:1 compression ratio.
Echo Red Armor. I thought it might be snake oil by the claims of cleaning carbon,but it brought my Sthil 4-mix trimmer back to full power. Putting valves in a 2 cycle, not good long term they build up with carbon.