How do most good chainsaw operators sharpen the chain in the field? I know using files. Do you have a device that holds the file at the proper angle?
"Good chainsaw operator" is a huuuuge stretch, but I just use a file.
Search in the chainsaw forum for sharpening topics. There are endless discussions. (This may start another one. :D :D)
It's not that hard to learn to free-hand with a file, although it may take some time to get the hang of it. Next up from there is a simple file guide. Up from there is something like the 2-in-1 guides that are getting pretty good reviews on here. Some people like a stump vise to hold the bar.
In the woods, I just use a file and grab a hunk of wood to hold the bar up. At home I use the file, and a chunk of 2x4 to hold the bar up. As my hands and eyes are getting worse, I think I'm going to start experimenting with a simple guide or a 2-in-1.
Sharpening more often makes the job easier and keeps you cutting better. I usually sharpen when I refill the gas tank. Sometimes that gets stretched to every other tank if the chips are still looking good.
However you choose to sharpen your chain, keep it sharp and don't forget the depth gauges (often referred to as rakers). Sharp is beautiful.
I can put it on the ground,or a stump,get comfortable,might take a couple places to get the feel good spot and than I can sharpen the chain. Not something you will pick up fast. But the comfortable spot and feel good spot is a very important step that can not be left out. I cut my stumps low,so I do a lot of sharpening in the woods. Some even bring 2-3 chains with them. Good idea too.
Quote from: thecfarm on April 21, 2019, 07:40:43 PM
Some even bring 2-3 chains with them. Good idea too.
Changing chains is a skill that eludes me. I guess I technically could change a chain faster than I can file one, but it feels like it takes me way longer than it should.
Thanks all.
I was debating whether or not I should invest in a file guide for an upcoming chainsaw project. After reading the posts, I decided that a file guide is probably worthwhile since I don't know much about sharpening chains, and want to keep mine in the best of condition as possible.
If nothing else, a guide can show you what to aim for with a file. You can then either keep using the guide, or go to a bare file. Guides are worth the nominal cost for sure.
Nothing a matter with using a guide. ;) Keep that chain sharp is all that matters.
I use the little 12V sharpener similar to a Dremel tool. It has an angle guide on it and uses little round stones with different sizes to fit different chains. I typically hook mine to my ATV battery. I have used my truck or even mill battery as a power source. I have used several. Sthil makes a good one as well as Oregon and TSC even makes one. The Sthil sharpener only uses their threaded stones while the others use unthreaded stones or you can use the Sthil stones. I prefer the Oregon sharpener because the switch is on the side of the box allowing one hand operation and on and off and I can get stones anywhere not just from the dealer. The Sthil sharpener has the switch on the cord so you need to hold with one hand and turn it on and off with the other. I find the Oregon (TSC was same design) better thought out for ease of use. I just sharpen the chain on the saw.
I have a couple guys that help me cut my firewood for some hunting rights on my land. When one or both are helping I want to get as much done as we can so I find for me it is better to have a couple extra sharpen chains with me and just switch out the chain and keep rolling and I can sharpen it another day when I have time. Both saws we use to buck wood run the same size chain so that helps.
The 10° down file handle angle takes the bluntness out of the cutter's top plate cutting edge, at the same time taking away the side plate's aggressive hook angle ....reason why it's recommended for frozen and dry wood.
But still cuts fast and holds a good edge in green wood.
Bluntness causes vibration and slower cutting speed. Plus more side plate angle dulls faster at the working corner of the cutter.
Level 0° is better suited for most file guides.
Quote from: HolmenTree on April 22, 2019, 10:17:18 AM
The 10° down file handle angle takes the bluntness out of the cutter's top plate cutting edge, at the same time taking away the side plate's aggressive hook angle ....reason why it's recommended for frozen and dry wood.
But still cuts fast and holds a good edge in green wood.
Bluntness causes vibration and slower cutting speed. Plus more side plate angle dulls faster at the working corner of the cutter.
Level 0° is better suited for most file guides.
Looks like I posted on the wrong thread :D
Sorry fellas, should to be on the "Down Angle" thread.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)(https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)
I have a vise on my ATV, so a good filing point at excellent height. I file a chain faster than i can change a chain and put a new one on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/zz_28729.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1514586772)
Great idea teak!
Also handy for fixing other things on the job too.
My chains stay pretty sharp in the field. Out in the woods is another story. :D :D
To me all those toys are a waste of time except maybe one, a vice. I don' t have an atv but if I did it would have a real vice mounted on it.
Quote from: bigtrees on April 21, 2019, 04:01:09 PM
How do most good chainsaw operators sharpen the chain in the field? I know using files. Do you have a device that holds the file at the proper angle?
I always have my tractor nearby when chainsawing in the woods, and I have one of these Stihl 12V sharpeners. If I nick the chain on a rock, or it starts cutting slow, I stop, hook up the sharpener to the tractor battery, and within a minute or so, I am back to cutting again. When I'm done for the day, I give the chain a better sharpening with my Dremel, clean everything up, and get it ready for the next use. I also carry a spare chain with me when in the woods, so if I really mess up a chain, I can slip on the spare quickly, and go again.
I picked up a couple of these and now I'm a religious zealot about them:
https://www.amazon.com/Pferd-17304Pferd-Chain-Sharp-Filing/dp/B0046VN5Z6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=PFERD&qid=1556228551&s=gateway&sr=8-2 (https://www.amazon.com/Pferd-17304Pferd-Chain-Sharp-Filing/dp/B0046VN5Z6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=PFERD&qid=1556228551&s=gateway&sr=8-2)
Pretty much idiot proof after you pick the right size.
Files the cutter and the depth guides at the same time.
Helps keep the right angles as you file with the guides.
You can open it up and rotate/change the files as they wear down.
It's blue and you can find the dang thing after you drop it in the detritus.
That, and a stump vise, and you're a sharpening machine:
https://www.amazon.com/Forester-Filing-Stump-Vise/dp/B00J7YPTXS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=stump+vise&qid=1556228854&s=gateway&sr=8-4 (https://www.amazon.com/Forester-Filing-Stump-Vise/dp/B00J7YPTXS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=stump+vise&qid=1556228854&s=gateway&sr=8-4)
When i'm on the field i sharpen with one hand and husqvarna roller guide makes it easy.
I'm young but i'm a big boy so all those awkard positions doesn't work for me to use two hands.
When i have my saw in the vice i have no issue freehand sharpening. I even made a diy template with 30 degree on it that attaches to my bar with a magnet and it worked really, really well.
Here's a little video, it was a brand new chain so the file tends to get stuck when trying to lift it out.
I felled a big tree and had to high stump it, so i had pretty much perfect height. But usually i bow down on my knee and put the chainsaw on the log or a stump.
Sharpening a chainsaw in the field. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/FWPLJ_A4028)
I watched the end of your file in the vid. against the background, there was very little to no up & down or sideways motion, You can file my chains.
I too use the husqvarna guides, exclusively.
Quote from: Allar on April 26, 2019, 06:55:43 AM
When i'm on the field i sharpen with one hand and husqvarna roller guide makes it easy.
I'm young but i'm a big boy so all those awkard positions doesn't work for me to use two hands.
When i have my saw in the vice i have no issue freehand sharpening. I even made a diy template with 30 degree on it that attaches to my bar with a magnet and it worked really, really well.
Here's a little video, it was a brand new chain so the file tends to get stuck when trying to lift it out.
I felled a big tree and had to high stump it, so i had pretty much perfect height. But usually i bow down on my knee and put the chainsaw on the log or a stump.
Sharpening a chainsaw in the field. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/FWPLJ_A4028)