Finally got started ! Thank God !
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Species is Alaskan White Spruce. Some of it from blow downs or spruce bark beetle killed trees.
Milling 16' 8x8s , 2x8s , 2x10s and 2x4s.
At least that is my target sizes. Some of the 2x8s are 8'+ some 9'6". floor joists are 16' 2x8s for the 2nd floor joists and 16' 2x10s for the ground floor.
I'm learning stuff with every cut. Actually learning at least as much from log and cant set up and dogging as from the sawing.
So what's the deal with posting pics in the gallery before I can put them in my post. ???
Have a read here.
http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100194.0 (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100194.0)
By uploading the picture to the FF server they stay in your posts, no matter what some other random photo hosting outfit decides to do.
Lots of other forums lost most of their pictures when --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!-- started charging actual money to host them. The FF didn't, because they are all kept on the actual FF server.
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Logging 16'6". I'm loading them on my woods trailer to keep them out of the dirt.
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My wife Really likes seeing boards come off the mill.
Happy wife= happy life !
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Red mill , red hard hat. :D
I gotta get a hard hat with vents in the top. 96° in the sun where I've been working.
I got 4 logs home this afternoon. Hopefully the sawing will go well in the morning.
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Hopefully I'll get 1 beam from 1 log and at least 4, 2x10s from the other log. And an 8x8 from one of the shorties. The other I'll be lucky to get a 6x6 out of.
I put a drop receiver stub on the 4 wheeler after the first truck load . it really helps to keep the small end out of the dirt.
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It's great that you're milling your own construction lumber.
Seems you have a similar tractor/ skidder as I use.
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Making sure I am reading the scale right.
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Sometimes I'm happy just to get a good slab off without and mistakes made on my part.
Quote from: RAYAR on June 26, 2019, 03:16:12 AM
It's great that you're milling your own construction lumber.
Once we got a piece of land that we wanted. I figured the cost of the framing lumber I would need to build a small house and garage. It came out to more than this mill cost. Granted, the mill is used. But it saws nice lumber when I do my part correctly. And if I take care of it I will be able to saw many more houses worth of lumber with it.
And I like doing things like this myself.
All looks good!!!
Good to see you are up and running. What caught my eye was your MightyMite Gen ll. I have the same mill. Mine was originally flat wheels and 2" bands which I converted to 19" sheaves running loose v belts (now tight polyurethane) and 1-1/4" bands. I also changed the roller guides and have had years of trouble free service.
The tilt table has been good for me and will produce some primo beveled siding.
Enjoy!
The tilt table >:(
The previous owner thot it would be a good idea to weld some lgp small DOZER track pads onto the stationary frame cross members And to the tilt table.
Cuss cuss cuss !!!!
I want to use the tilt table for bevel siding . But even more for sawing shingles.
That's cool that you have a Gen ll. !!
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I got a nice beam out of that log . and a 1 by that I'll have to edge.
You can see the welded on low ground pressure track pads . On the frame of the mill.
I sawed 265 board feet of good lumber today. Plus added about 10 pieces to the reman/ resaaw pile. Thick slabs and wany 2nd cuts.
I think I figured out how to get my 2nd slab cut to be square with the 1st slab cut. Put the log dog in the middle of the depth of the log . Or slightly higher.
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I had been having a hard time with that.
When I'm building our house with this lumber. I'll remember some of my (challenges) 8)
I see the welded on track pads, looks like there are three. I fully get what the original owner was trying to achieve, especially if he wasn't into beveled siding. The tilt table is narrow and when manipulating/rolling timbers, they may want to fall on to the bed. My cure is to have a few pieces of 2-1/4" x 1-1/2" lying around. They are notched to fit under the tilt table for about 1/2" making the whole bed width the same height. I simply wedge two or three in and problem solved. They can also be used as occasional toe boards if 1-1/2 or 2-1/4" is needed.
The shingle making feature worked fine but slow. I used it a few times to make clear cedar shims. As a carpenter/door hanger for close to 40 years, I never liked the expensive little bundles of shims, especially when they only went down to 1/4" or so on the thin end.
The problem I have with the track pads other than them disabling the tilt table. I can't saw any thinner than 2" thick on my bottom/last cut. The roller blade guide contacts it and head rig travel stops.
If we get a good rain I'm going to cut them off with an angle grinder.
I was thinking about laying down some boards, a couple layers. But I like the idea of fitting in some sized pieces. I've been using some 1 1/2" pieces I cut for a toe board . I keep 1 at each end of the mill. I had a log yesterday that only needed about 3/4" rise on the small end so I grabbed something from the slab pile and bucked a 16" piece with the DeWalt 6 1/2" cordless circle saw.
That saw is proving to be Very handy to have at the mill. Long slabs that have a thin spot in the middle . Zip and no struggling to get it on the slab pile. Sticker boards, zip zip zip , stickers a plenty.
Another tool that is handy and saves the hands is a 12" set of hand tongs. Especially handy for pulling beams off the mill and stacking them. My set are Husqvrna brand. Real handy for moving smaller logs around.
Its been real hot here . Today especially. So I didn't go to the woods today. Plenty of other projects needed attention.
Thanks for the tip !
With the heat wave we are having I put myself on night shift. High 50s low 60s temps are much easier to work in that the 90s plus during the afternoon . Its 87°F in the shade @ 2:30 pm right now. Probably 100° at the mill. Sunset here is around 11:30 pm. But it doesn't get fully dark before the sun rises @ around 4 am. I was in the woods logging @ 3:15 this morning and it was nice and bright out. Got out another trailer load of logs.
Night before last I took the time to cut the track pads off the bed frames of the mill. Now I can saw down to 1" 😀👍.
Also, I did my very first sharpening of a band blade. I used my Dremil tool with an orange grinding bit in it. Left the band on the mill. Moved the head rig to a place where I could comfortably sit and the band was at a comfortable height. I held the Dremil vertically and moved it in an 1/4 circular motion. Grinding the vertical face, gullet and up the slope to the point of the next tooth. Then repeat. I would do a few teeth then advance the band.
It came out Much better than I anticipated. It just flew thru the log.
I know that eventually I will need an official band grinder and setter. But for now I'm very happy with how well this worked.
Production is still slow. . But the lumber pile is growing steadily if slowly.
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Some night shift logging and milling pics.
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Kind of an ugly log . but I got 4, 2x10s @ 8' plus trim for floor joists . And 16' of 2x10 blocking from that log. I bucked it @ the crook. I don't mind rough looking lumber for blocking @ the rim joists.
Some nice 2x10s x 16'6"
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I discovered that a 6 HP Shop Vac . with the hose screwed into the blower side works great for blowing sawdust and bark chips off the mill.
Progress!
I don't see anything where the support legs go. (the square tube receivers welded to the frame x 4) How do you have it supported?
I've been moving along . the legs didn't come with it. I have some square tubing and will make up some screw jacks this winter.
My last log of the day today didn't go according to plan.
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So in the morning I'll get busy milling this abbreviated load.
Oh, forgot to answer the ? . I have blocks under the frame. I know its kinda hillbilly . But its a choice between a day building screw jacks or loggin or milling right now. I need to be making lumber.
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My last log of the day. I was too tired by this time to do anything about it . I'll tackle it when go back to the woods.
Alot has improved and speeded up slowly. I started sharpening the band on the saw with a Dremil tool . I got 3 sharpening out of it before I took it off and put it up until I get a real sharpener and setter. I put one on that I had put a bit of a bend in when I got it hung up in a heavy slab cut that I didn't slide any wedges in. I set up a way to tap the bow out of the blade. Took my time and its running real straight and cutting real good. But the 3 rd blade I put on I sawed well over 1,000 board with before retiring it for now.
Tramp,
All I can say is I am envious. How do you get a pretty lady to come help around the mill? You must be doing something right. ;) Keep on posting.
As my production on either the mill or loggin isn't any kind of fast. I don't have alot to add daily. And I don't know how much of the loggin side to add here in the sawmill side.
There are a number of things that need and will be improved on once I get all moved . Granted, most of them won't happen until I build our house. But eventually .
One thing I've decided is I Need an edger. I spend too much time re working flitches and fat slabs. Most of the 1 bys I make are from the slab cuts. Also, I need to come up with a different setup for my log stops. Something that keeps the log about 2" away from the powerhead side blade guide rollers. Once my cant is all squared up I'm good but all too often the roller guide bumps into the log or cant. Part of the reason is I've been only sawing from the small end of the log. So when I get down to the butt , sometimes there is a hump or flare that I didn't think would get in the way that does.
One thing I have been doing it peeling all the bark and cambian off and wane on the piece coming off the mill. That takes a little extra time as I'm trying to keep the slab pile small as possible. A cordwood saw will be a handy thing to have once I get setup at our new home.
I also took the time to make a Burke bar.
Well it's styled after a Burke bar but with the steels that I had on hand. It works GREAT for lifting the small end of the log up to put in pillow blocks. And is good for peeling bark where I may have got dirt in the bark. I'll do a post about it in the hand tools section.
We did get rain and much cooler temps here so I don't have to work night shift now. That's nice.
Bushler,
I'm really enjoying your thread here, keep posting. I'm curious if you made your trailer behind your ATV or if it's store bought?
I made it. I used the frame from a military tarmac munitions wagon that had been surplused. I used the deck of it for the flatbed on my F350 .
It's all 1/4" and the pipe frame is 1/2" . The wagon originally was designed to have a big load of ammo And stuff lashed to it and be pushed out the back of a C5 or C130 and parachuted to the ground. It had SOLID steel 2 3/4" axle. All the suspension and lower parts were made real heavy and the top was aluminum.
I had the frame laying around for a couple years trying to figure out what to do with it. Once I figured out how to attach the axle it was go ahead and build. Then I had to figure out the tounge and hitch. The whole thing cost me less than $50.00 . Actually I think it was less than $40.00 . and that was for the hitch.
The deck planks are white spruce. That I Alaska milled years ago and used it for a firewood rack on the 350 before I flat bedded it.
At the time I built it I had time but not much money so it worked out Great !
I've worked the snot out of it. Used and abused, over loaded ect. I don't know exactly how much wood I've got out with it. But it's over 40 cord. The next mod I plan on for it is a walking beam set up with tandem wheels. I may not have tipped over with walking tandem axle.
The only down side may be making the trailer too heavy for me to wheel it around in the tundra and woods. I would like to put 14" wheels and tires on it too.
Quote from: Tramp Bushler on July 05, 2019, 07:22:53 PM
I discovered that a 6 HP Shop Vac . with the hose screwed into the blower side works great for blowing sawdust and bark chips off the mill.
Tried the shop vac blower trick this afternoon....works great with my 3hp vac! Convenient for me since I have electricity closer to the mill than an air compressor.
My compressor is kinda small. Doesn't really put out enough air to run a framing nailer. With the shop vac ,I just pack the powerhead and hose around with me blowing off the mill.
Sounds like a stout little trailer for sure👍
So today is another day.
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Hope to get 5 2x8x17 out of this log.
Quote from: Tramp Bushler on July 14, 2019, 03:52:00 AM
My compressor is kinda small. Doesn't really put out enough air to run a framing nailer. With the shop vac ,I just pack the powerhead and hose around with me blowing off the mill.
Just an FYI , check out the Hitachi framing nailer, battery powered one. Only battery powered one worth a hoot. Lots of battery finish nailers but a battery framing nailer has been tough for folks to crack. Hitachi made the best framing nailers anyway (pneumatic) so this is maybe not surprising. Anyhow, wonderful tool. No hoses, so much faster, get an extra battery and you are good to go all day.
I've been reading up on the new cordless framing nailers. Quite a tool. I do have some Bostich pneumatic nailers coil and stick. And need a new roofing nailer.
I've worked with the Paslode gas nailers. When everything was right, they worked good. But once it started getting cool/frost outside they didn't work very well. Also, the nose of them always bugged me. It would slide around and miss the rafters or stud when I got going good. Or at least more than my other nailers.
I'll be using a friends DeWalt compressor to build my house with this summer/fall. It puts out lots of air. Eventually I want a gas engine powered compressor as I am building and will be off grid.
The log with the twist got milled yesterday afternoon.
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Not sure why my pics are sideways. Sorry bout that. I'll have to get it figured out.
I have been having better success with centering the heart in my logs I've been sawing. The Burke style bar I made works great for doing it.
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Today was my last day of logging here. Lord willing I will do plenty more after we move. I'm leaving a bunch of good timber standing where I was logging. But hopefully someone will find them and get them to their mill before the spruce bark Beatle gets to them . There was a bunch of Blowdown where I got these logs that was too rotten to be useful. Wouldn't even make very good firewood.
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That's great. All pics are right side up.
I have to put on a new band blade before I start sawing this load. I wish I had another load of logs that would make 16' 2x8s. But that's how it is.
It sure is nice to see the lumber pile grow.
This log made this stack of lumber. Only had 1 board that had compresoon wood in it causing it to bow.
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Today I'm making 16' 2x4s.
Probably my last day of milling for a while.
Does anyone know much about wheel bearings on a trailer ? I'm nervous about the trip over the highway with the mill. Its got to go 163 miles.
Well, this is it. All I have left to saw is a bunch of flitches. I'll mill them up after I take them and the mill to where we will build.
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I made 20 , 16' 2x4s some 1x6 and a couple 2x6 all @ 16' today. Resawed some flitches also at various lengths. I found out that used motor oil and diesel fuel mixed works GREAT for keeping the blade free of pitch and stuff.
You've got a lot of lumber sawed. And some hauling to do. Looking forward to seeing the build.
As for wheel bearings, jack the wheel and test for play. Adjust if necessary. Pop the caps and check the grease. With proper adjustment and grease your all set.
You may want to pop the hubs off and repack the bearings if you have any doubts. Beats looking in the mirror and seeing smoke or flames.
Yep, get the wheel off the ground and start jerking on it, rocking it. It should feel solid, like it's part of the trailer, not like it's about to come off. The old rule is if there is more than 1/8" of rocking of the tire, the castle nut needs to be tightened. If you hear or feel a crunching or grinding when you hand spin the tire, well, that's a bad sign.
You should check the dot date code on the tires also. If they are radials and been in the hot sun and over 5 years old or so they are ready to blowout the sidewalls. Local ok distance not good. Ive blown 3 and they disintegrate. its a well known fact on Motor homes and travel trailers. The dot code will have 4 numbers, the first two are the week and the last two are the year they were built. also they show on only one side of the tire. Hope this helps and saves some troubles Jack
Thanks guys !!
This weekend was spent on the property mowing birch and aspen brush that was taking over. With a 4 horse Honda lawn mower. Its alot more wore than people may think
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My wife worked as much as I did but on lighter duty projects.
I was using my Solo 134 brush cutter . Things were going along well till I sliced into a hornets nest that was attached to a sapling. Things got painfully exciting real fast.
Quote from: Tramp Bushler on July 21, 2019, 01:58:11 PM
I was using my Solo 134 brush cutter . Things were going along well till I sliced into a hornets nest that was attached to a sapling. Things got painfully exciting real fast.
I'll bet that turned into a really fast dance and dash, not a fun thing to have happen.
Milled up a dozen flitches while waiting on a battery to charge. I'll be soo glad when I get an edger !!
I go to walmart and buy the cheapest lawn mower they have. I call it my mini bush hog. If I get a year out of one I am doing good. Those stumps and rocks are hard on equipment. Not to mention bushes that are 1 inch across. ::)
I do find some for free,but most times when I stall those free ones,I have to pull on the rope way too many times to get them going again. I get all worn out just trying to start the the mini bush hog. ;D
So Monday will be my first load of lumber hauled to where we will build our house. 163 miles away. It has taken an unbelievable amount of work getting the correct reciever hitch for our E350 van and even more to get the correct wiring harnesses ect to hook the van to the trailer's wiring . round 7 flat.
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.
But I think I've got it. Hope so anyway.
I put a Curt class 4 reciever hitch on . 1,000 lb tounge weight and 10,000 lb tow. This is the first time I've set up a vehicle with trailer brakes and lights so its been a real learning experience. And it cost A Lot more money than I ever thought it would ! But I like the end result.
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I even used a Molly Hogan as a stub pin keeper. Instead of a cotter pin or other keeper. Molly's are tough and don't come apart on their own or from a bit of brush flicking it. And by burying the end in the wrap. 90% of thrives around here won't know how to undo it. And a leatherman would be very hard pressed to cut it.
I also put new safety chains and hooks on the trailer.
I checked the board weight calculator on this forum and it said that 1,500 board feet of spruce should weigh less than 5,000 lbs. So that is what I'm going to target per load. We will see how it goes.
Thanks for all the encouragement and advice everyone !
As a side note. If anyone has a vehicle they want to use for towing a trailer. That did not come from the factory all set up for towing. I recommend you start getting everything installed MONTHS before you plan to start towing !! Especially if you live remoteish like I do.
Got my lights and brakes all hooked up and started 2 haul lumber. Got 2 loads hauled. I think I was running around 7,000 lbs total weight.
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The van handles the load ok. But I do want to get a set of airbags for the van to stiffen it up just a bit. I only have a partial load of lumber left to bring . so I think I will put the mill on the trailer also. That will save 1, 320 mile round trip.
Life kinda gets in the way of building now that I've started my new job and am living here at our place . Plus it has been raining like crazy for here. Usually this is a fairly dry area. 10" precip per year. We've gotten at least 3 inches in the past 2 weeks.
I just gotta be tough !
Great pics, bet you are glad to almost be done with the 320 mile round trips!
Things are looking great.
The building is not going as fast as I would like. Being the only person onsite really slows things down as I work 4 days a week at my job.
Thank God the rains went away . That really was not fun.
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This is the bathroom/sauna building. Its built on top of the septic tank. The floor is R30 insulated . the walls will be around R 30 and the roof will be R 40 or better.
For the time being it will be a long drop outhouse. Just need to get it enclosed.
I'm edging all my lumber on my small tablesaw. It makes framing Soo much better. An edger will definitely be my next sawmill related purchase.
Hope everyone is doing well.
It is Great building with my own lumber!
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I find myself falling back into old habits. I've always used lots of polyurethane expanding foam glue when building.
It slows things down . But it also really seals joints up tight. I don't go crazy with it. But some places it helps fix some of my relearning curves.
The view from the sauna window.