So in what may prove to have been a temporary moment of insanity I bought a used Husky 390xp off a popular auction site $499 + $40 shipping.
Saw looks in used but decent cosmetic condition, seller claims it "runs like a bear".
Thought I'd bring y'all along for the ride.
Should be delivered mid next week.
... it's very possible I have a CAD addiction ;D ;D ;D
Brandon
I think if you have a legitimate place for your saws, you can't call it CAD. That's what I tell myself anyway :^D
Here's my list...
echo 2511t
echo cs400
PoulanPro pr4218
Stihl ms362cm
Stihl ms661cm
The only redundant saw is the Poulan. I got that for the convenience of having a bigger saw at work. Otherwise, each is solidly it's own niche, without duplication.
When you go your shed, and have troubling deciding which 50cc saw you want to use that day, you probably have CAD :^D
Compared to the other activities have told us about this purchase was actually quite sane!! :D Of course that also means you have progressed to Step 3 already, which explains why my chickens were getting nervous this evening..... :D
Quote from: Southside on September 19, 2019, 08:53:41 PM
Compared to the other activities have told us about this purchase was actually quite sane!! :D Of course that also means you have progressed to Step 3 already, which explains why my chickens were getting nervous this evening..... :D
I was talking to the missus last night trying to convince her that chickens make good pets... :) :)
Brandon
Quote from: lxskllr on September 19, 2019, 05:41:24 PM
I think if you have a legitimate place for your saws, you can't call it CAD. That's what I tell myself anyway :^D
Here's my list...
echo 2511t
echo cs400
PoulanPro pr4218
Stihl ms362cm
Stihl ms661cm
The only redundant saw is the Poulan. I got that for the convenience of having a bigger saw at work. Otherwise, each is solidly it's own niche, without duplication.
When you go your shed, and have troubling deciding which 50cc saw you want to use that day, you probably have CAD :^D
Not sure if I had a legitimate place for my saws yet... funny thing the other day my wife looked at me and said "why don't you go back to collecting guns?" Thing is, the chainsaw addiction is actually bringing in some money. Wife thinks I'm nuts and doesn't understand the need for multiple chainsaws but for now she's just smiling.
My list right now is:
Poulan Pro PR5020
Poulan Pro PP5020AV
Husky 390xp (once it gets here... talk about waiting for Christmas!)
Possibly a Poulan s25da
Got the first chainsaw out of necessity... spent $150 to save $50... in retrospect the math may not have worked out on that one ;) bought the second one so I could have a back up in case the first one wasn't running AND so I didn't have to swap back and forth between a 16" and 20" bar when cutting and bought essentially the same model to keep logistics simple.
Bought the third one because, well I really want to try out pro grade equipment and I'd like something that can handle a bit of milling. Since the weight on the 390 is basically the same as the Poulans I may start using it a lot more to remove trees, we will see.
I will always have a soft spot for the first Poulan at least... it's what started this crazy ride and I still think for what they are it's a great saw for the price provided one keeps in mind it's limitations.
I may pick up the s25da as it's here local as a non runner for $20 and would give me a chance to work on a saw I don't need to really learn how they work AND it would be interesting to try a tophandle saw. As I don't plan to climb trees I don't really know that I need a tophandle but the price is right and like I said, I have a soft spot for Poulans.
There, I think I've legitimized my need for every saw :) :) :) so I'm not an addict, I can stop anytime I want... you know a little 40cc saw might just be the ticket for... :D :D
Brandon
Congrats , sweet saw ....." I" think you'll want a 24 inch bar for daily wear, will you go 36" for milling? You know those little 40's would be really nifty for limb cleaning. You can always go back to firearm collecting (I hope). Might need to work on the "classic pickup collection. :D
Quote from: Nebraska on September 20, 2019, 09:54:29 AM
Congrats , sweet saw ....." I" think you'll want a 24 inch bar for daily wear, will you go 36" for milling? You know those little 40's would be really nifty for limb cleaning. You can always go back to firearm collecting (I hope). Might need to work on the "classic pickup collection. :D
The saw comes with a 24" oregon bar with the replaceable nose and it looks like while used it's in good condition. Whether it's straight or not remains to be seen ;) I figure that's a good size for 99.9% of the non milling work I'll do with it.
For milling I will probably do a 36" bar, need to look into which one I want. I don't know tons about the different bars and chains yet so I need to research it more before I pick one out.
If the bar it comes with is straight and decent I'll play with it for a while. This purchase has kinda tapped the budget so new toys for the Husky will need to wait a bit. Plus it's getting to be fall/winter and my ambition goes down in direct proportion to the temp :snowball:
Brandon
So I've read that you can run .050 or .058 gauge chains on these saws, is there any major advantage to the .058 over the .050?
My current saws are .050 so if I can I'd like to stick with that so I can buy rolls of chains to save money.
Thanks,
Brandon
Just don't be like me.
Plan: I'll have redundant saws so I can keep going if one goes down.
Reality: I now have 3 saws that need fixed... ::) And just bought another one at an auction because it was cheaper than fixing the others in that niche. :D
At 7 saws, I begrudgingly told my wife, yes, I have enough. :-\ I now have 8. ;D
Quote from: TKehl on September 20, 2019, 10:22:27 AM
Just don't be like me.
Plan: I'll have redundant saws so I can keep going if one goes down.
Reality: I now have 3 saws that need fixed... ::) And just bought another one at an auction because it was cheaper than fixing the others in that niche. :D
At 7 saws, I begrudgingly told my wife, yes, I have enough. :-\ I now have 8. ;D
TKehl... are you my long lost twin brother?? HAHAHA seriously that sounds exactly like something I'd do. Good thing my wife isn't on this forum to read that or I'd be in some serious trouble.
I keep telling myself I don't want to become a chainsaw collector, I don't have the physical room.... not sure I'm actually convincing myself. When I bought the second Poulan I figured I had enough... :) :)
@Southside (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=24297) do you think I'd have success convincing my wife I need a chicken coop so I have somewhere to store the chainsaws?
Maybe I could pass off any "new" saws I acquire as having hatched from the chickens ;) ;) Might be an easier sale than "Sweetie, I have no idea where it came from just followed me home, but can I keep it please please please?"
It's just a good thing I'm married to so patient a woman 8) 8)
Brandon
Quote from: ManjiSann on September 20, 2019, 10:11:50 AM
So I've read that you can run .050 or .058 gauge chains on these saws, is there any major advantage to the .058 over the .050?
My current saws are .050 so if I can I'd like to stick with that so I can buy rolls of chains to save money.
Thanks,
Brandon
The Swedish built saws had the .058 chain gauge size going on since the 1960's, possibly earlier. The Japanese Shindaiwa and Echo adapted .058 chain also.
Still today most of the Husqvarna saws coming into Canada and parts of the US come with .058
The gauge is a compromise between .050 and .063 and seeing .050 chain other then Stihl is .058 between the cutters tapering down to .050 at the bar rails, you might as well have a even .058 drive link adding a little strength, more oil and chips clearance plus matching up closer to the bars .063 sprocket nose which is now pretty well standard through the industry.
Alot more chain wobble when a .050 chain rotates on a .063 sprocket nose bar.
At one time .058 sprocket noses were standard over in Scandinavia on their Sandvik bars etc.
If your wife knows how many chainsaws, guns, fishing rods, etc you have then you just don't have enough! It helps to have multiple storage areas so they can't all be seen at once.
Quote from: gspren on September 20, 2019, 04:52:56 PM
If your wife knows how many chainsaws, guns, fishing rods, etc you have then you just don't have enough! It helps to have multiple storage areas so they can't all be seen at once.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Keep checking the tracking info several times a day, willing it to move faster ;D ;D ;D
Current estimate is some time this Thursday 8) 8)
Brandon
Like waiting for Christmas. Time slows down. :D
To paraphrase a long retired and perhaps departed Texas senator, I have all the saws I need but not all the saws I want.
my list
1973 Homelite super xl12
Husky 345 and 445
Echo cs600p
Echo cordless 58 volt.
With only 5 I feel like a piker
Friend of mine bought a 555 husqvarna to cut his firewood with, yesterday he gave me his orange top 61 husqvarna , said he didn't need it anymore and he knew i like the older ones. It runs good, needs cleaned up though, has a muffler bolt missing. Now when i take it home where am i gonna hide it !!!!!!!
Quote from: Pine Ridge on September 25, 2019, 07:09:15 AM
Friend of mine bought a 555 husqvarna to cut his firewood with, yesterday he gave me his orange top 61 husqvarna , said he didn't need it anymore and he knew i like the older ones. It runs good, needs cleaned up though, has a muffler bolt missing. Now when i take it home where am i gonna hide it !!!!!!!
Chicken coop ;)
I've had a couple people give me guns that know I collect them, haven't been running chainsaws long enough to be given any... yet ;D ;D
I've seen the Husky 61's come up for sell in the local ads a few times but never looked into them as right now I'm trying to only get saws I have an active need for. However, I would enjoy trying out some of the older ones as I always think it's interesting to see how things/technology has evolved over time. You'll have to tell me how you like the 61 and your thoughts on it compared to other newer saws in your collection/experience.
Brandon
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on September 25, 2019, 06:41:25 AM
To paraphrase a long retired and perhaps departed Texas senator, I have all the saws I need but not all the saws I want.
my list
1973 Homelite super xl12
Husky 345 and 445
Echo cs600p
Echo cordless 58 volt.
With only 5 I feel like a piker
Haha, too true! My wife keeps asking me why I need more saws... I politely ask why she need so many shoes. It is sort of the same analogy in my mind, different saws for different occasions/needs and a few simply because I want them.
Brandon
Quote from: ManjiSann on September 25, 2019, 08:27:09 AMI politely ask why she need so many shoes
I was hoping to find a short video clip of Gene Hackman from "Enemy of the State" where he says to Will Smith - "You're either very brave, or very stupid". :D
Quote from: Southside on September 25, 2019, 10:10:02 AM
Quote from: ManjiSann on September 25, 2019, 08:27:09 AMI politely ask why she need so many shoes
I was hoping to find a short video clip of Gene Hackman from "Enemy of the State" where he says to Will Smith - "You're either very brave, or very stupid". :D
Haha it's a fine line between the two and I skate it every day 8) 8)
Brandon
Santa is late!!! :snowball:
Ok so it's just a delivery estimate, estimate means it could not happen that way... but darn it I wanted my saw yesterday like the estimate said!!!
Childish rant over... sorta ;) Tracking says saw is on the delivery truck and will arrive today!!! 8) 8) 8)
Brandon
It finally came!!! 8) 8) 8)
Starts right up and even with the dull butt chain that came with it she just pulls! Few screws missing and chain brake doesn't work. Gonna contact the seller about the DOA chain brake as it wasn't disclosed in the listing but all in all it seems like it is a good deal :D
Can the air filters be rinsed off or blown out? It looks like a felt one.
Now to figure out why the darn lawn mower suddenly won't work >:(
Brandon
Air filters can be blown off, but it's not a proper fix. Get a new one and make sure it seals around the base.Clear air makes these last a long time. Chain brakes can also be easy to fix. Get the manual and learn the saw. Spend a few bucks on replacing screws and make it back to 'like new'. You have a good one there.
So it looks like the knee joint (part 4) is broken and the brake spring (5) is completely missing.
https://www.partstree.com/models/390-husqvarna-chainsaw-2011-05/chain-brake-clutch-cover-5/ (https://www.partstree.com/models/390-husqvarna-chainsaw-2011-05/chain-brake-clutch-cover-5/)
Does anyone know if there is a little bar or something that connects from the knee joint to the brake lever (11) in the above diagram.
If you look in the pic below there's a little circular hole in the metal part of the knee joint near the right side that would interface in the oblong hole in the brake lever right below the knee joint part?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0150.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1569638878)
Thanks,
Brandon
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 27, 2019, 10:44:17 PM
Air filters can be blown off, but it's not a proper fix. Get a new one and make sure it seals around the base.Clear air makes these last a long time. Chain brakes can also be easy to fix. Get the manual and learn the saw. Spend a few bucks on replacing screws and make it back to 'like new'. You have a good one there.
I'll order a new air filter. No reason to save $27 now only to have to replace the carb or cylinder later.
Contacted the seller to see what they'd do about the broken chain brake. Even if they choose to do nothing I'll keep the saw. I agree it seems like a good one.
I'll have to give her a good wipe down and replace a couple small parts but all in all I am happy ;D
I'll post some pics of the saw in the next day or so... it's currently in a few pieces so I could figure out the chain brake issue. Guess while I'm troubleshooting I'd best figure out the non-functioning kill switch which the seller did mention in the listing.
Brandon
That kill switch just quit on my 372clone today, but i heard it is a common husky problem too. I ordered a replacement switch this evening, but managed the rewove the switch and test it. it wasn't working, but when I opened the switch up and saw how simple it was I just did some cleanup and got it working again. It pops out easy and pops open pretty easy too. Don't take the saw apart, just pop the switch out of it's slot with a small screwdriver. Use a continuity meter or Ohm meter to check it. It's a very cheap switch, easy fix.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 27, 2019, 11:15:42 PM
That kill switch just quit on my 372clone today, but i heard it is a common husky problem too. I ordered a replacement switch this evening, but managed the rewove the switch and test it. it wasn't working, but when I opened the switch up and saw how simple it was I just did some cleanup and got it working again. It pops out easy and pops open pretty easy too. Don't take the saw apart, just pop the switch out of it's slot with a small screwdriver. Use a continuity meter or Ohm meter to check it. It's a very cheap switch, easy fix.
NICE! I figured it was likely the wiring as that's what failed on my Poulans. I'll do as you say and pop the switch out and see if I can fix it.
The more I look into this saw the more I think it's a gem in the rough and I feel I got a solid deal. 8)
Pulled the muffler off this morning before work and looked at the cylinder walls, they looked really good to my untrained eye. I couldn't see any lines, gouges, scoring so seems like the cylinder is solid.
In the below pic, the black oily sawdust, is that indicative of anything more than the saw is from 2011 and has been used? Just wondering if this means there's a leak in the base gasket that I need to address or if it's just normal? Just want to be sure I don't shrug off something out of ignorance that indicates a problem to someone in the know :P
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0154.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1569670215)
Thanks,
Brandon
Quote from: ManjiSann on September 27, 2019, 10:51:08 PM
So it looks like the knee joint (part 4) is broken and the brake spring (5) is completely missing.
Does anyone know if there is a little bar or something that connects from the knee joint to the brake lever (11) in the above diagram.
I only just saw this, missed it last night. I could have checked when I had mine apart, but IIRC there is a dowel pin in that hole to engage the lever. Is yours broken off or torn out? That part is only about 8 bucks OEM. If you are doing all that work and it isn't 100% now, I would change that out too. The brake should work correctly and it is a real pain (and hazard) when it doesn't.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 28, 2019, 08:39:34 AM
Quote from: ManjiSann on September 27, 2019, 10:51:08 PM
So it looks like the knee joint (part 4) is broken and the brake spring (5) is completely missing.
Does anyone know if there is a little bar or something that connects from the knee joint to the brake lever (11) in the above diagram.
I only just saw this, missed it last night. I could have checked when I had mine apart, but IIRC there is a dowel pin in that hole to engage the lever. Is yours broken off or torn out? That part is only about 8 bucks OEM. If you are doing all that work and it isn't 100% now, I would change that out too. The brake should work correctly and it is a real pain (and hazard) when it doesn't.
OG, I agree! As I've grown older and hopefully wiser I've come to realize that many safety items exist for a good reason.
I found a pic of the lever and it looks like something is supposed to be in the oblong slot that will then connect to the knee joint.
Brandon
Kickback takes on a new meaning with these big saws and longer bars. You'll want that brake operational! And remember, the brake doesn't prevent kickback- it just stops the chain when kickback occurs. You can still injure yourself seriously if that bar tip flies back and hits you in the face. I had this happen to a friend, a fairly experienced saw operator. He had a saw kick hard in a firewood pile, the chain was stopped but the bar tip came around and hit him in the face. He still has a good scar to remind him of it.
"In the below pic, the black oily sawdust, is that indicative of anything more than the saw is from 2011 and has been used? Just wondering if this means there's a leak in the base gasket that I need to address or if it's just normal? Just want to be sure I don't shrug off something out of ignorance that indicates a problem to someone in the know "
I wouldn't worry much about the oily sawdust. As dust collects in the nooks and crannies it sucks chain oil along with it. Once you run it a bit you'll see if the oiler is working proper or not.
Quote from: barbender on September 28, 2019, 01:23:10 PM
Kickback takes on a new meaning with these big saws and longer bars. You'll want that brake operational! And remember, the brake doesn't prevent kickback- it just stops the chain when kickback occurs. You can still injure yourself seriously if that bar tip flies back and hits you in the face. I had this happen to a friend, a fairly experienced saw operator. He had a saw kick hard in a firewood pile, the chain was stopped but the bar tip came around and hit him in the face. He still has a good scar to remind him of it.
A solid point and good reminder thanks! I'm going to fix the brake, already sourcing parts. The seller was great and refunded me $60 to help with the cost of fixing it which I thought was very fair of him.
Brandon
Quote from: donbj on September 28, 2019, 10:56:03 PM
"In the below pic, the black oily sawdust, is that indicative of anything more than the saw is from 2011 and has been used? Just wondering if this means there's a leak in the base gasket that I need to address or if it's just normal? Just want to be sure I don't shrug off something out of ignorance that indicates a problem to someone in the know "
I wouldn't worry much about the oily sawdust. As dust collects in the nooks and crannies it sucks chain oil along with it. Once you run it a bit you'll see if the oiler is working proper or not.
I figured that was probably the case but wanted to ask to be sure.
Brandon
Was able to source some used parts to fix the chain brake, should be here some time this week or early next. Fingers crossed I am correct and got all the parts I needed.
Brandon
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 27, 2019, 11:15:42 PM
That kill switch just quit on my 372clone today, but i heard it is a common husky problem too. I ordered a replacement switch this evening, but managed the rewove the switch and test it. it wasn't working, but when I opened the switch up and saw how simple it was I just did some cleanup and got it working again. It pops out easy and pops open pretty easy too. Don't take the saw apart, just pop the switch out of it's slot with a small screwdriver. Use a continuity meter or Ohm meter to check it. It's a very cheap switch, easy fix.
Checked the switch and it's operational. Then checked the wires, turns out one was almost complete severed, looks like probably due to vibration wear or something. May try and find some ends at the autoparts store, I used to redo vintage motorcycle connections a lot so this shouldn't be too bad so long as I can find the right parts.
Brandon
Sounds like it's all coming together. You should have a nice saw when you're finished :^)
I'm loving mine more all the time...I think I'm on tank 5 of gas, all I've been doing is bucking firewood with it. Phenomenal torque, which is exactly what I was looking for👍👍👍
Quote from: lxskllr on September 30, 2019, 09:31:19 PM
Sounds like it's all coming together. You should have a nice saw when you're finished :^)
I am really happy with the purchase, I think I got a steal of a deal on this one! Buying used I expected a few parts to be worn out or busted and needing replacement. I think once I get all the stuff that needs to be fixed and must be replaced due to wear I'll maybe have $600 into this saw, so about half of a new one give or take. AND I get the added benefit of learning about the saw and how things work as I repair it which I consider valuable as well.
Brandon
Quote from: barbender on September 30, 2019, 09:40:05 PM
I'm loving mine more all the time...I think I'm on tank 5 of gas, all I've been doing is bucking firewood with it. Phenomenal torque, which is exactly what I was looking for👍👍👍
I'm really glad to hear that! 8) 8)
One of the several reasons I really wanted to try a pro grade saw is I wanted to see what the difference was between what I had and the pro stuff. I was hoping torque was one of the major differences. I still think the Poulans are a good deal for the price and for what they were designed for and would recommend them to anyone who just needs a saw for the occasional light job or two. The reality is I could probably have moved along just fine using just the Poulans. That being said, just the 10 seconds I ran the Husky 390 to verify it was running decent and with a dull chain that actually was missing a cutter or two and it just pulled right along through the log was enough to tell me the difference in torque.
I'm hoping all the parts come in by mid next week so I can get her back together and giver her a better try. Unfortunately I only have a couple small fruit trees, maybe 10" DBH to remove so the Husky with a 24" bar is pretty overkill... but I'll still use it 8) 8)
One of the screws that hold the top plastic cover on has the hole stripped out in the metal body so I'll have to eventually buy a helicoil or something to put that right. For now though I don't see any harm in running it with only the 2 screws holding that part on as they are pretty solid.
The bar that came with it is a nice Oregon bar with the replaceable tip. It was grooved pretty good so I spent about an hour yesterday with a file and I think I got it back in proper order.
Now to fix the two poulans so I can sell one. Gotta help fund the purchase of this Husky and I just don't need 2 of the same saw right now. Nor do I have the space to collect saws... really should build that chicken coop :D :D
Brandon
When you tilt the chainsaw on its side, should it leak a little fuel from the carb?
I noticed what looked like a small amount of fuel looking like it may have leaked out of the carb and I'm wondering it happened when I had the powerhead on its side.
Brandon
Should not leak in any position.
Quote from: btulloh on October 01, 2019, 09:48:27 AM
Should not leak in any position.
Thats what I was thinking, thanks for confirming. I'll have to look and see if it was leaking and if so where.
Brandon
Quote from: ManjiSann on October 01, 2019, 09:43:25 AM
When you tilt the chainsaw on its side, should it leak a little fuel from the carb?
I noticed what looked like a small amount of fuel looking like it may have leaked out of the carb and I'm wondering it happened when I had the powerhead on its side.
Brandon
Leaking out of the carp or the fuel vent line?
Quote from: mredden on October 02, 2019, 01:29:43 PM
Quote from: ManjiSann on October 01, 2019, 09:43:25 AM
When you tilt the chainsaw on its side, should it leak a little fuel from the carb?
I noticed what looked like a small amount of fuel looking like it may have leaked out of the carb and I'm wondering it happened when I had the powerhead on its side.
Brandon
Leaking out of the carp or the fuel vent line?
Not sure. I've put it on its side a few times now and haven't seen any evidence of leaks. Not sure what I was seeing.
Brandon
You might have just been observing some of the saws raw power leaking out. :D
Quote from: Southside on October 02, 2019, 05:33:36 PM
You might have just been observing some of the saws raw power leaking out. :D
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO :D
I should write to Husqvarna and ask where I can find "Raw Power" so I can add it back ;D
Brandon
Yes definately ;D
I keep trying to tell myself that the saw doesn't need to look perfect just be functional and safe... but yesterday I gave into my pride a bit and bought some high temp engine paint for the muffler. The current muffler is pretty rusty but still seems like it's solid. I need to replace the muffler on my truck as well (hmm rusty mufflers seem to be a trend I just noticed :o ) so I figure I'll paint the welds on the truck muffler and repaint chainsaw muffler once I've knocked the rust off. Yeah, probably like trying to polish a turd but what the heck ;)
I may upgrade the muffler later, once I have a feel for how the saw runs. But I have to be careful as I live in a state that is dry as a tinder box so I need to keep the spark arrester screen so if I drill holes I somehow have to screen them. I may try it eventually but for now the only "upgrade" I'm going to do is paint the muffler... if a chainsaw looks sharp it will cut fast right? :) :)
Still waiting on the parts for the chain brake and a few other fiddly parts like the plastic chain guide that goes on the clutch cover. Should all be here by Monday, if I can trust the tracking info to be correct.
Has anyone made a tool to take the clutch drum off? I'm toying with making my own out of a socket, anyone done this?
Brandon
A few of the parts came in yesterday so I started to replace the chain guide as the old one was shot
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0180.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570191662)
Discovered the screw hole was stripped out arg-smileyso after much thought and planning (not really ;) ) I decided to epoxy the new on in place with epoxy in the stud hole and on the edge of the guide. Assuming this holds I figure I'll have to drill out the stud to re-thread it anyhow and I'd imagine these don't wear out very fast... time will tell if this was a decent fix or a terrible idea.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0182.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570199034)
Also received the new wire for the kill switch, the other being worn through so none of the copper was connected and the 3 new chains I ordered 8) 8)
More parts are supposed to arrive today and the remainder by Monday. Fingers crossed that this fixes the brake.
Brandon
Parts came in today 8) 8)
Got the brake all put together... almost :(
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0183.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570244218)
Turns out there's a pin that goes from the saw body to the little hole in the knee joint and the brake won't disengage without it
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0184.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570244216)
Not sure what part bums me out more, waiting for the part or having to pay shipping again. Wish I'd have known when I placed the first order. Oh well it's all part of the adventure eh? ;)
On a happier note, the side cover is looking all spiffed up with new parts
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0185.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570244217)
Just waiting on the outer felling dog and the cover will be complete.
Hopefully the other parts will come in by Wednesday next week! I really want to try it out!
Brandon
The sprocket rim that is in there currently is a 3/8 x 8. Is this the best one or is there an advantage to going to the 3/8 x 7? I don't think it needs to be replaced just yet but when it does I'd like to know what I need to get.
With as rusted as the muffler is I may need to replace it in the near future. It'll probably be fine this season to do what little I'm hoping to do with the saw but would like to be prepared when the time comes. I live in a very dry state where if I want to cut on BLM land I must have a spark arrestor screen and frankly I want the screen even off BLM land as there's just too much risk of fire in my little tinderbox state. So aside from the spark screen I don't know what else I should be looking for in a new muffler. What mufflers do you guys recommend? I see a bunch of ones for $20 or less out of China, are they any good?
Possibly TMI but woke up this morning thinking "I sure hope this attempt at saving money doesn't turn into one of those situations and I have to keep spending so much money that I'd have been better off buying new." I wish I had a better idea of what I am looking at, is there anything on the case itself that I should look for to ensure it's not busted, worn out, etc? I guess the little knee joint pin missing and stripped screw stud has me wondering what other abuse this poor saw has seen.
Ok, negative moment over. Deep breath and put on my positive cap smiley_strange_hat2 It's all part of the tuition to the school of how to repair your saw. If I didn't have to replace all these parts I wouldn't get to know how the saw works. Just hard to feel good about that with money never as abundant as I'd like ::)
Brandon
If you're running a 20" or 24" I'd keep the 8, anything else a 7 would be best.
You already have a clutch removal tool for that saw- it's called a flathead screwdriver (chainsaw wrench) and a hammer. Look on the shoes of the clutch, you'll see a slot on each one with an arrow and the word OFF. Block the piston first.
Get it fixed up, almost there now.
"You already have a clutch removal tool for that saw- it's called a flathead screwdriver (chainsaw wrench) and a hammer. Look on the shoes of the clutch, you'll see a slot on each one with an arrow and the word OFF. Block the piston first."
One little tip I was given years ago by a small engine mechanic was to get a socket the right size and an impact. One quick little blip and off the clutch comes. No need to block the piston. Just make darn sure the impact is set to spin the right direction :laugh:
Hang in there, you've almost got it all put together. What else other than a chainsaw could you buy for several hundred dollars and make several thousands of dollars over its lifespan, enjoy a new hobby that you think about at least every hour, and love every minute of it. My fulltime 40 hour a week job may have my carcass, but my mind is often in a white oak patch somewhere cuttin timber.
Manjisann, don't overthink and fret over this saw too much. I don't know that I've ever seen a muffler on a saw rust out, I've certainly never had one do so. Get the safety features fixed, put mixed gas in it and run it. That's all the previous owner was doing, and that saw is still here and ready to rock and roll👍
Quote from: donbj on October 05, 2019, 03:52:36 PM
"You already have a clutch removal tool for that saw- it's called a flathead screwdriver (chainsaw wrench) and a hammer. Look on the shoes of the clutch, you'll see a slot on each one with an arrow and the word OFF. Block the piston first."
One little tip I was given years ago by a small engine mechanic was to get a socket the right size and an impact. One quick little blip and off the clutch comes. No need to block the piston. Just make darn sure the impact is set to spin the right direction :laugh:
oooo I'll have to try that!
Brandon
Quote from: Pine Ridge on October 05, 2019, 06:56:15 PM
Hang in there, you've almost got it all put together. What else other than a chainsaw could you buy for several hundred dollars and make several thousands of dollars over its lifespan, enjoy a new hobby that you think about at least every hour, and love every minute of it. My fulltime 40 hour a week job may have my carcass, but my mind is often in a white oak patch somewhere cuttin timber.
My "real" job is in front of a computer but like you my mind is on the saw. I work to pay bills, I saw to stay sane 8) 8) I was hiking yesterday and the whole time I'm looking at the trees thinking "now if I had to drop this one I'd need to..." :D
This is the first "hobby" I've had that actually is paying for itself, it's kinda cool!
Brandon
Quote from: barbender on October 05, 2019, 11:56:04 PM
Manjisann, don't overthink and fret over this saw too much. I don't know that I've ever seen a muffler on a saw rust out, I've certainly never had one do so. Get the safety features fixed, put mixed gas in it and run it. That's all the previous owner was doing, and that saw is still here and ready to rock and roll👍
Hahaha you've got my number! I tend to over think/analyze things and drive myself nuts.
Near as I can see I think I've got all the parts here or on order, there's no more empty holes that things look like they should go in so there shouldn't be any more parts I need to buy. The bar looks straight and solid, the saw ran when I tried it and seemed strong, so as has been pointed out it should be good.
Thanks for the pep talk guys!
Brandon
Naa - don't listen to @barbender (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1286) you need to get several coats of wax onto that thing - inside the cover and all, touch up the scratches, clear coat the bar, custom embroidered billet aluminum muffler, really "pimp it out". :D :D :D
Edit: Almost forgot - get a few different varieties of the "special scented" oil additives for the mix gas too, you want to savor the exhaust flavor. ;D
Quote from: Southside on October 06, 2019, 02:10:17 PMEdit: Almost forgot - get a few different varieties of the "special scented" oil additives for the mix gas too, you want to savor the exhaust flavor. ;D
You're making a funny, but I've considered it. I miss the way 2stroke used to smell when I was a kid. I think Klotz gives that special smell, no? I'd consider getting some for my PoulanPro at the office. I prefer higher tech stuff for my good saws.
Well, there actually is a variety of scents available, some smell nothing like 2 cycle.
Klotz smells like dryer sheets, I used to run it in my snowmobiles and an occasional chainsaw. I might have to get some just for old times sake😊
Be careful of Southside. He's trying to delay you getting that 390 fired up and put to wood- he knows you won't be jealous of his saws anymore😁
"oooo I'll have to try that!
Brand"
You'll likey
I've heard of people using PAM cooking spray as an anti spatter when welding and I understand there's one that smells like bacon... wonder if I could use it as b/c oil or in the gas. Every time I rev the engine it'd smell like BACON!!!!! ;D ;D
(ok just in case some poor soul should happen to wander in and read this that is honestly looking for information, NO PAM is NOT appropriate for any of these uses, except as an anti spatter spray)
Brandon
Quote from: Southside on October 06, 2019, 02:10:17 PM
Naa - don't listen to @barbender (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1286) you need to get several coats of wax onto that thing - inside the cover and all, touch up the scratches, clear coat the bar, custom embroidered billet aluminum muffler, really "pimp it out". :D :D :D
Edit: Almost forgot - get a few different varieties of the "special scented" oil additives for the mix gas too, you want to savor the exhaust flavor. ;D
Hehe I could Pimp My Saw. Wonder if I could add hydraulics and ground efx lights and a little pine scented tree hanging from the rear handle :D :D :D and of course add an alarm so no one could steal it!
Brandon
I couldn't see where it was leaking but I discovered if I have the fuel cap off and the saw on its side fuel is leaking. I wasn't filling the fuel tank so I know it wasn't me spilling ;) It looks like it's coming out from between the metal body and the plastic lower tank. I couldn't see any signs of leakage in the carb/air filter area.
My thoughts are something where the carb connects to the fuel tank or is there some sort of tank breather that might be stuck open? It doesn't seem to leak when the fuel tank is sealed. I've also noticed a strong fuel smell around the the saw even when the tank is closed and I can't see any fuel seepage but didn't think anything of it.
Thanks,
Brandon
Looks like there's a tube and pipe of sort that goes from the fuel tank area to the carb. I'll have to take a few parts off and see if I can see what exactly is leaking. If the exploaded diagram is any indication there's not a lot of parts that could leak, assuming no crack in the plastic tank. I'm hoping it's either a loose part or a simple rubber part that has hardened over time and just needs to be replaced. Looks like the parts in the area I'm thinking might be leaking aren't very costly so that's good :)
Brandon
Turns out it wasn't a tube or something loose, it was a small crack in the fuel tank :( I bought some fuel tank repair epoxy and hopefully it'll work but as it's in an area that gets some torque stress from the handle bar I'm not sure it's really going to hold. I cleaned the area with brake cleaner, sanded it with 80 grit for mechanical adhesion then used a flat screw driver to press it on and try to get it fairly thin so it won't vibrate against the upper body. It was a small crack barely visible except for some discoloration...Fingers crossed this works.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0193.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570552686)
If this doesn't hold I'll try JB Weld next.
Brandon
If it holds, I think I would look for a replacement tank assembly to have on hand when it does go to pot, hopefully the epoxy job will buy some time. Looks like you are getting close.
Quote from: Nebraska on October 08, 2019, 03:35:16 PM
If it holds, I think I would look for a replacement tank assembly to have on hand when it does go to pot, hopefully the epoxy job will buy some time. Looks like you are getting close.
That's currently plan c. I have found them for about $140 shipped :( :( :( I may have to pinch my pennies over the winter and buy one though.
I just hope it holds for a while as I sold one of the Poulan chainsaws and I really need this one to function. In hindsight that may have been a bit premature.
Brandon
Googled Chainsaw Gas Tank Repair and found some interesting ideas for using a soldering iron to melt the tank back together and using metal fly screen to reinforce it by pushing into the melted plastic then using JB weld over it. If the epoxy I used fails (I kinda expect it to, not through any fault of the epoxy) I think I will try the above option.
Trying to convince the CFO that putting $140 into this saw for a new tank is just not a conversation that is gonna fly right now :-X :-X Besides, I want to see if I can repair it AND at the rate this is going I'm reaching the point where the math points to a new saw being the smarter option.
Brandon
Might as well go with the repair and see how it lasts. I've used it and it worked pretty well. Not on a chainsaw though. Never know til you try.
Quote from: btulloh on October 08, 2019, 06:25:13 PM
Might as well go with the repair and see how it lasts. I've used it and it worked pretty well. Not on a chainsaw though. Never know til you try.
Agreed.
I'm not ready to admit defeat!
At least I'm getting a great education on how these things go together and how to fix them. I'm sure the knowledge will pay dividends in the future.
I will admit to a little frustration as this isn't what I had hoped for, I really just want to make saw dust, but when you buy used you roll the dice.
Brandon
Ain't nothin' in the end. Just keep up with your good attitude, and you should have a solid runner when you're done. You may or may not have an amazing deal when it's all over with, but that's ok. Like you said, you're gaining knowledge, and experience. If it doesn't pay off now, it will later. It's like spending money on school. At the time, it's only a cash drain, but you usually get it back+ at a later date.
The soldering iron welding idea may work if the expoxy fails to, I've messed around with welding the plastic fenders on a four wheeler, duck decoys, couple other misc things. It takes patience and I would practice on something else before I tried the tank. I'm not good at it I just tried it and proved to myself you could do it if needed...
My Jonsered 2171 is leaking the same way, and I haven't disassembled it yet to look it over- I didn't even want to know😁 I suspect mine will be the same issue. I didn't figure it was my fuel line because it only leaks when I fill it above 3/4 tank. I bought a soldering iron type plastic welder to repair the fenders on my dually pickup (the woods are hard on dually fenders🙄😁) I got some plastic rod and stainless steel mesh in a kit and it seems to make a strong repair. I've been looking for something else to try it on...I think if you could figure out what kind plastic the tank is made out of, you could get some filler rod for it of the same type. That's your best chance of a permanent repair.
Quote from: lxskllr on October 08, 2019, 07:25:21 PM
Ain't nothin' in the end. Just keep up with your good attitude, and you should have a solid runner when you're done. You may or may not have an amazing deal when it's all over with, but that's ok. Like you said, you're gaining knowledge, and experience. If it doesn't pay off now, it will later. It's like spending money on school. At the time, it's only a cash drain, but you usually get it back+ at a later date.
I like the spin on this, it's just tuition :) :) I often lose the big picture perspective on things and let the little details get me down so it's good to be reminded as you say "Ain't nothin' in the end."
Brandon
Quote from: Nebraska on October 08, 2019, 11:05:02 PM
The soldering iron welding idea may work if the expoxy fails to, I've messed around with welding the plastic fenders on a four wheeler, duck decoys, couple other misc things. It takes patience and I would practice on something else before I tried the tank. I'm not good at it I just tried it and proved to myself you could do it if needed...
That is 90% of what I do, I'm not good at it but can do it when needed 8) 8)
Brandon
Quote from: barbender on October 09, 2019, 12:07:04 AM
My Jonsered 2171 is leaking the same way, and I haven't disassembled it yet to look it over- I didn't even want to know😁 I suspect mine will be the same issue. I didn't figure it was my fuel line because it only leaks when I fill it above 3/4 tank. I bought a soldering iron type plastic welder to repair the fenders on my dually pickup (the woods are hard on dually fenders🙄😁) I got some plastic rod and stainless steel mesh in a kit and it seems to make a strong repair. I've been looking for something else to try it on...I think if you could figure out what kind plastic the tank is made out of, you could get some filler rod for it of the same type. That's your best chance of a permanent repair.
I hope yours isn't the same issue, fingers crossed it's something easier :) :) I was trying to be optimistic when I was looking for the issue as in my mind the crack in the tank was a worst case scenario.
I've read somewhere that the tanks are HDPE, I think the same thing a lot of food cutting boards are made out of but not certain of either of those statements.
Thanks all for the positive thoughts. I'm stubborn enough that I'd have tried it even if everyone said it was doomed to failure BUT the positivity gives a sort of strength and optimism which I very much appreciate!
If the epoxy I just applied fails I may buy a cheap cutting board and try my hand at plastic welding with a soldering iron. If I can get good at it I'll try sealing the crack and building up the corner area into more of an arc and less of a 90 degree angle as my understanding of engineering is sharp corners are more prone to failure due to concentrated stresses.
I know I've already said this but while I'm not happy about the expense, even if viewed as tuition ;), I have learned a LOT about how this saw works and is put together which can only be a good thing. Anyhow, thanks again for the positive words of encouragement, they really are appreciated!
According to tracking the knee joint pin should be delivered tonight, I'm guessing tomorrow at the latest. I'm hoping that once it's installed the chain brake will work and I can try the saw out 8) 8) 8) I say hope only because there is so much pressure from the spring it's hard for me to visualize how that little pin will be able to hold it all and direct it but I know the system worked when new so I'm interested to get it all back together and see it in action.
Just because nothing is ever easy, when I came home last night I noticed a small puddle of B/C oil under the saw ;D ;D I'm hoping it's just because I had it on it's side a bunch yesterday. I figure even if it leaks a bit, so long as it pumps the oil to the bar when the saw is running I can use it for a bit and fix the problem in a week or two or three. It's a good excuse to take the clutch apart and clean it and the oil pump up. Eh, if I have some time today maybe I'll try the nifty trick with the impact wrench and give it a look today ;) I have a very one track mind and struggle to not obsess over this kind of stuff until I have it sorted.
Totally unrelated but a feel good win for me, the muffler on my little truck had rusted out pretty bad. Got the new one welded on using my 1960's miller stick welder which I am not the greatest at. Wouldn't surprise me if the next time it's on the rack at the mechanics they come back and politely suggest I never use whatever shop did the work again :D :D :D But it's solid as can be and quiet. I didn't realize how bad the noise was until it had been corrected. It's the little wins like this that keep me going.
Brandon
My 372 leaks a little oil too, no more than it actually gets used it's not worth dinking with to me it just lives on cardboard. It oils just fine when it runs. Do you have one of those nifty little screw in hard plastic plugs to brace the piston against? Makes clutch removal more pleasant. Have used a wooden dowel in the past never broke one off in the cylinder but worried about it.
Quote from: Nebraska on October 09, 2019, 10:13:52 AM
My 372 leaks a little oil too, no more than it actually gets used it's not worth dinking with to me it just lives on cardboard. It oils just fine when it runs. Do you have one of those nifty little screw in hard plastic plugs to brace the piston against? Makes clutch removal more pleasant. Have used a wooden dowel in the past never broke one off in the cylinder but worried about it.
I don't have one of those plastic plugs, I'll have to find one!
Brandon
I've heard of people breaking cylinders using the screw in plugs. I intend to use the time tested rope in the cylinder when the time comes to change my sprocket.
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!
The rest of the brake parts came in a couple hours ago. Finished putting the brake together, put everything back on and it fired right up!!!!
I used it for about 20 minutes to rip some firewood and it runs really well. The difference between this saw and my little Poulan is AMAZING! Heh, now I want to try and get a 50cc pro saw now ;D ;D ;D
For the moment the epoxy seems to be holding and I'm not seeing any leaks of fuel or b/c oil. I'm super stoked as I can now use it on Friday and get some more quality time with my new toy!
Here's a pic of the saw all together
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0197.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570659448)
Brandon
Quote from: lxskllr on October 09, 2019, 06:15:56 PM
I've heard of people breaking cylinders using the screw in plugs. I intend to use the time tested rope in the cylinder when the time comes to change my sprocket.
:'( :'( :'( That's not something I want to have happen.
Brandon
Congratulations Brandon. It would be better to see a photo of the big stick eating grin on your face that I know you will have all evening :D. Let her run for a bit as you get the feel and figure it out. Don't be hasty about getting everything prefect in one quick shot. Let her work in as you get used to the sounds and feels of this saw.
If you are looking for a smaller pro-saw, maybe look for a 60cc? There are a of of plenty good 50cc saws that are not 'pro-saws' it's a big market. I love my 450, but it's not a pro saw.
Also with regard to the clutch removal discussion, don't over think that either. The easiest removal tool I have seen used is a scrench placed in the righ location on the clutch ring slot and a good sharp smack with a 12" plastic wedge used as a mallet. No rope, no plastic plug, nuttin'. Just a good sharp smack. Didn't take the plug out either.
Have fun with it man.
Good to see you have it all together and running! You won't sleep a wink tonight, all you'll hear is that 390xp screamin !!!!!
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on October 09, 2019, 07:25:16 PM
Congratulations Brandon. It would be better to see a photo of the big stick eating grin on your face that I know you will have all evening :D. Let her run for a bit as you get the feel and figure it out. Don't be hasty about getting everything prefect in one quick shot. Let her work in as you get used to the sounds and feels of this saw.
If you are looking for a smaller pro-saw, maybe look for a 60cc? There are a of of plenty good 50cc saws that are not 'pro-saws' it's a big market. I love my 450, but it's not a pro saw.
Also with regard to the clutch removal discussion, don't over think that either. The easiest removal tool I have seen used is a scrench placed in the righ location on the clutch ring slot and a good sharp smack with a 12" plastic wedge used as a mallet. No rope, no plastic plug, nuttin'. Just a good sharp smack. Didn't take the plug out either.
Have fun with it man.
;D ;D ;D That's my stick figure drawing of the grin on my face ;D ;D ;D Asked my wife for about the 20th time if I'd mentioned how much I love this new saw... good thing she's a tolerant woman :D :D :D
I did brush the muffler off and spray some black high temp paint on it this morning. Looks a bit better.
I plan to do as you say and run her a bit and see what if anything else she needs. I know I need a new air filter and wouldn't hurt to put in a new spark plug. I did order a new rubber seal for the fuel cap as it weeps a wee bit of fuel. Aside from a longer bar for milling I'm not seeing anything else I really need.
I tried to remove the clutch this morning, put a rope in the cylinder and whacked it a few times in the direction the arrows indicated but couldn't get it to budge. I'm probably over cautious but I don't really like whacking things. I don't really need to remove the clutch right now other than just for cleaning so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment. I'll either buy a removal tool or cut a socket down and make my own for giggles. Not a huge concern at the moment but it does remind me I need to grease that bearing real quick.
Brandon
Quote from: Pine Ridge on October 09, 2019, 07:37:16 PM
Good to see you have it all together and running! You won't sleep a wink tonight, all you'll hear is that 390xp screamin !!!!!
Heh, you know it! I wish I had a huge tree I could cut down. This thing has the torque to actually use the dogs!
Brandon
Had the chance to use the saw a bit yesterday and I wasn't grinning... ;D ;D ;D ok I totally was!!! This thing is amazing! Best money I've spent in a while.
Helped a neighbor remove 3 "fruit" trees, not sure what kind they were but here's a pic:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0199.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1570879173)
The saw made short work of everything! Had a bit of a bad moment when one of the tree's wanted to go the opposite way I needed it to go. It was 100% my fault, I didn't properly evaluate before starting to cut and after cutting the heavy branches off one side started to cut one of the biggest only to realize if it fell it wasn't going to ruin some yard decorations so I stopped. Problem was I'd cut the counterbalancing branches off the other side already, I didn't have wedges ( I do now :-[ :-[) so we tied a rope as high up as we could get it and as I cut the guys helping pulled hard. At first the tree disagreed but eventually we convinced it to go where we wanted it. Lesson learned, I immediately went out and bought some Stihl wedges and a heavy rope. I will also do a much better job of evaluating before I start cutting.
Back to the saw, it performed like a champ and the epoxy on the tank seems to be holding fine for now. I did notice what looks like oil seepage under the muffler and I wonder if the gasket is leaking. I want to try and confirm what the problem is but if it's the gasket the seepage seems so minor I doubt I'll worry about it unless I have a need to replace the piston or some other major overhaul in which splitting the case would make sense. It's a 9 year old saw that's seen use, a small leak in my mind is to be expected.
Well off to work, my real job wiggling a mouse and trying to look busy ;) ;) just wanted to report that the saw is AMAZING and also admit to my amatuer mistakes in the hope that someone can learn from it and stay safe. Yesterday was a total success, trees down and gone and 0 injuries.
What do you guys use to hammer wedges?
Brandon
(I've decided the tree was a Callery Pear after extensive observation of it's mating and eating habits... ok I googled it and the leaves and fruits seem to match.)
Usually it's a 2# hammer on the wedges or sometimes a maul, congrats on getting it going glad it went well. Save some of that fruit wood for the smoker it will do nice things to pork shoulders. Must be getting close to lunch that sounds really good. Can't wait to see the next saw added to the litter. Have fun.
My money is on him getting one of these next at the pace he is going at.... :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJrapmuPDlY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJrapmuPDlY)
Quote from: Nebraska on October 12, 2019, 12:30:09 PM
Usually it's a 2# hammer on the wedges or sometimes a maul, congrats on getting it going glad it went well. Save some of that fruit wood for the smoker it will do nice things to pork shoulders. Must be getting close to lunch that sounds really good. Can't wait to see the next saw added to the litter. Have fun.
@Nebraska (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=45256) do you happen to know what species the tree is? I'm leary of using any wood to smoke with that I don't recognize.
Saving my pennies for a lighter pro saw or maybe a top handle with a short bar. I had to cut some saplings that were between a fence and shed and even the 16" bar on the Poulan wasn't convenient and made for some uncomfortable cutting. Not in a huge rush at the moment since it's getting cold but will keep an eye on the local ads in case someone decides to list one I can afford :)
Brandon
Quote from: Southside on October 12, 2019, 12:45:36 PM
My money is on him getting one of these next at the pace he is going at.... :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJrapmuPDlY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJrapmuPDlY)
WOW that would solve the "How do I make this tree go where I want it" question wouldn't it! Wonder if I could build a chicken coop in the backyard and convince the neighbors it is just a really big rooster :o :o
Brandon
Even with that rig, now and then they don't go where you want them to.
For small stuff, you might want to look at a Silky handsaw. They chew through wood quick, and take little effort to run them. Kind of expensive for a hand saw(~$75), but they're what the pros use. Makes a good backup to rescue your chainsaw if it gets pinched also. A couple times ago, I climbed without it, and got my saw stuck. Had to climb back down to get the Silky. New policy is never climb without a handsaw :^D
LX, I'll have to buy a little hand saw as there's times when it's the right choice over a chainsaw.. just not as much fun IMO :) :) But if I'm going to do a job I need to do it right.
So I think I've figured out what species of tree it was that I cut down on Friday. I think it's a non fruiting pear tree of some sort, anyone disagree?
Brandon
feeling proud to have CAD addiction...
@ChrisRoss (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=47355) Welcome to the forum! I've only been a member for a few months but I can tell you in just that short time I've learned a lot and the members on the forum are very nice and quality people... well except that @Southside (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=24297) character, watch out for him he'll try and send you chickens ;) ;)
Brandon
Went to help a neighbor drop a little aspen tree that had died yesterday and noticed the screw and bushing on the recoil starter side of the chain brake were missing >:( >:( Fortunately I could borrow a screw from the recoil starter cover and temporarily loan it to the brake. Ordered new parts and when they come in I guess I'll clean the hole out real good then Loctite the chain brake screw in. A couple of the cover screws are vibrating out as well so I guess I need to go through and Loctite several of the screws so I don't run into this problem again.
I've run the saw a bit now and I'm thinking I need to tune the carb just a bit. Sounds like it's idling a bit high once warm. Silly question but do you guys tune the carbs when the engine is cold or warm? I've been doing it once it's warmed up.
I'm happy to report the leak in the fuel tank seems to be behaving for now so while I plan to explore the best way to fix it I'm not stressing it right now. I'm thinking I'll wait until the snow flies and I'm not needing to use the saw and I'll try and fix it then.
Brandon
Tune when it is warmed up.
My gosh you are getting after it. I mean the tree just died yesterday and you already cut it down!! How were you able to determine the time of death so accurately? :D
Quote from: Southside on October 17, 2019, 09:51:07 AM
My gosh you are getting after it. I mean the tree just died yesterday and you already cut it down!! How were you able to determine the time of death so accurately? :D
I may or may not have caused the death ;) Heh, the tree was already dead, well dying, and I cut it down yesterday. Gotta love ambiguous language ;D ;D
Brandon
I had an epiphany the other day about how I could fix the stripped hole that one of the 3 screws holding the plastic top cover goes in.
I took a 3/8 bolt I had lying around from another project that never went anywhere. I took some steel plate and drilled and tapped a hole for the bolt. Screwed the bolt in and then used a 5mm bit to drill as close to the center of the bolt as I could:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0211.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571679214)
Unfortunately the drill press isn't perfectly square so the hole wasn't as perfectly down the bolts shaft as I would have liked :( :( :( I wish I had a lathe... that's a frequent wish I have. It was close enough for what I needed though, so a win for me and my limited machining tools 8) 8)
Anyhow once the hole was drilled I pulled the plate off the drill press and threaded the hole to the 6mm the stock screw is. And then using my trusty super accurate cut off tool:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0213.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571679389)
I cut the bottom off the bolt and the head off the bolt so the remaining threaded part is only 1/2" long give or take a smidge. I then used a high speed cutoff wheel and ground a groove in the top of the insert I'd just made so I could fit a flat screw driver in it. Bit of a side note here, if you're going to follow this process make sure you thread the internal hole before cutting the head off the bolt otherwise it's really hard to thread as the insert will now just keep spinning down... I did the first one right and was going to make some spares but got a bit carried away and cut the bolt head off before I had threaded the internal hole and then while trying to thread one of the spares I busted my tap >:( >:( >:( Oh well, I only NEEDED the one.
I drilled the hole in the chainsaw out to the needed 5/16 to thread it to the 3/8's insert thingy I'd just made. That magnesium is sure easy to drill and tap!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0212.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571679199)
Once this was all done I blew everything off and cleaned the insert with brake cleaner really good. I coated the external threads of the insert with red Loctite and screwed it in. I'll get a pic of the insert in tomorrow, forgot to get one as I was busy cleaning the excess Loctite up so it would't go into the internal threads... that would be BAD :o :o :o
Tomorrow after it has set I'll put it back together along with the new screw and bushing for the chain brake. I bought some Loctite tape to put on the screws to keep them from backing out. It's not as strong as blue Loctite, but pretty close. Prior to looking up which Loctite I should use I didn't even know Loctite made a tape so I'm really curious to try it out. I'm only going to put a small amount on it as I don't want to have to use too much torque to remove the screws but I also don't want them vibrating out on their own.
In case anyone was wondering why I used a 3/8 bolt instead of something a bit narrower... it's what I had laying around and already had the needed drill bits and taps for. Something a bit narrower would have perhaps been better, I wouldn't go any bigger though as there wasn't a lot of metal left on the outer edge of the saw.
Brandon
Here's a pic of the insert I made
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0216.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571762105)
Brandon
Thrifty ...Looks like it fixed the issue.
Quote from: Nebraska on October 22, 2019, 06:17:18 PM
Thrifty ...Looks like it fixed the issue.
My Boy Scout training in action ;D ;D ;D
I get to try it out today! Two more of those little pear trees to cut down for a neighbor. The trunks are maybe a foot in diameter and between 4 and 5 feet tall before they branch out so I am going to try and mill the trunks. Guess this weekend I'll be building that milling jig 8) 8) I figure between the two trees and any milling I'm able to do in the next week I'll get a good chance to see how the fix holds up. I'm not expecting any problems with it.
Brandon
Look up E-Z LOK threaded inserts, that's what you made.
Quote from: ManjiSann on October 22, 2019, 12:35:45 PM
Here's a pic of the insert I made
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56620/IMG_0216.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571762105)
Brandon
Great minds think alike. I did exactly the same on my husky 353 ;D