Wife and I decided that we will build a monitor barn this summer and move into it while we build our house. I have the first plans attached. Any and all input even if negative would be most helpful, as we want the best possible design/outcome possible. This will then be a apartment for any family that needs a place to stay down the road if ever. We would add a temporary 2nd bedroom down stairs (north east corner) and the center area would be our dining/living room areas.
On the current plan calls for a 4/12 pitch and all roofs match. How would it look with the 2 leans and the porch being a 3/12? The widths of the leans are 18'. Reason for the ask is we could drop the over all height by 18" if the leans were 3/12 vs 4/12.
The other idea would be to put i-joists (@ 16') for a full 2nd story in the main part of the barn. There would be 2 bedrooms north end, 1 bathroom shared by the master and the 2nd bedroom, kitchen, dining and living all up here. The master bedroom would extend out over the lean to as it does now, as far as the roof pitch would allow. The porch would fully extend northward and the laundry, closet and lower bath would all move east to east the west lean to wall. The current faux south door would become a picture window. This would be more expensive, but don't really know how much more, any idea's how much extra % wise? We have the kitchen cabinets in our other man cave shop, so we would re-use them.
In-floor heat
Apex is 34'
Center building side wall 28' 1 3/4"
White metal inside for all shop area
Sheet rock for living area
Either 2x or 5/4 for the inside/outside girts
All walls 2 x 6 stud, 2' OC. Can get 28'. $36 per. Or would you frame it to 16', then add the 12'? While harder to build, since I wasn't planning on sheeting with 5/8" OSB, the 28' would be stronger I would think
12" board & 4" green treated stained dark walnut batten sided
Posts are 12" x 12"
Roof color is close to that and am most likely going with a standing seam
Will add a cupola I think
Thanks
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/2020-04-13_28329_LI.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1586806717)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/2020-04-13_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1586809090)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/2020-04-13_3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1586809091)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/2020-04-13_28529_LI.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1586806716)
Your making it so nice why not make it your house.
Just at a real quickie, stairs from a residence into a shop is probably a fire code problem.
@Don P (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=17) Ag building. Pretty sure exempt. Architect put that together based on our renderings. Can call it a garage also. Many garages have steps leading into the residence. But it'll put a ladder outside the upper window for a fire escape. It has the required fire resistant wall materials even so. Any other inputs greatly appreciated Don.
@Walnut Beast (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=49695) Thanks, but it's way to small. The design will fit in nicely with our home. Plus I'll need/want a shop anyways. RV will go in the east lean. Boat in the center. Plus we'll use the kitchen area for when we butcher our livestock.
Looks pretty nice. I don't think that having 3/12 shed pitches with a 4/12 main pitch would look bad at all.
For inspiration, I've really enjoyed looking at some of the DC Custom Builders barn projects. They have a great sense of style.
We nixed the living space 16' up. Might though put a 2nd bedroom above the master. Kids don't mind steps. ;D
Have architect drawing up the 3/12 lean to pitch and a few other changes. Will post when done.
The 3/12 pitch looks fine, so we will go that route. I'll post when he has it done in color
I'm thinking of going with 2" x 6" girts on the exterior of the 2" x 6" studded walls 2' OC. 5/4 on the interior 4' OC. Will that be ok or should it be done differently?
House wrap on the studs before the girts or on after the girts? My thoughts were before the girts. That way if there is any type of small leak over time, house wrap should keep it to the exterior since there's an air gap.
@Don P (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=17) I asked the architect and he said everything will pass codes for where this is at. Thanks though for the input.
Can anyone chime in on the following? thanks
I'm thinking of going with 2" x 6" girts on the exterior of the 2" x 6" studded walls 2' OC over 5/8 OSB. 5/4 girts on the interior 4' OC. Will that be ok or should it be done differently?
House wrap on the studs before the girts or on after the girts? My thoughts were before the girts. That way if there is any type of small leak over time, house wrap should keep it to the exterior since there's an air gap.
Me bride and I decided to just build a 'simple' shed/shop instead of it..... smiley_crying
She's concerned with prices and the way things are looking. I tend to agree, but sad to see it not being built.
So I'm going to run some numbers tonight, but I'm thinking a 58' x 50' x 18' with a 18' open area for rv, so actual shop wood be 40' x 50'. A 12' porch x 30' opposite side of the open area. A 14' x 14' main door and a 12' x 12' secondary door on same end.
Still going to make a living area in it, so wood split the main shop with a 16' or 18' partition and will put an upstairs in this area. Maybe 20' deep. So that'd leave 30' for living dining area for now and a car lift area when the house is done.
Then have to decide from a 'pole' style or stick frame.
I did get the rough cut green prices, this morning, so will compare those also.
:( bummer
Darn. Still will be a nice building though.
Keep us up-2-date.
Whoever moved this, thanks!
Idea
laundry chute between floors
dumb waiter to lift things between floors. not big enough for to be classified as an elevator
METAL ROOFS ONLY
Don't skimp on the foundation. Dig and pour a continuous footer no matter which way you decide to build the walls. By the time you tighten up a pole building to house standards I doubt you will see much cost difference between pole versus conventional stick frame.
@DDW_OR (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=17421) agreed on a metal roof, but the only metal roof worth having is a standing seam. They a lil'bit pricey.
@stavebuyer (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=15189) also agreed. That's why I stopped looking at doing a weld up or pole barn style. It saves some, but not enough to make it worth it.
Good luck to ya!!
Put 3 foot doors in every room. ;)
My comment is to put trim around your windows, and use screws to attach the trim, so in 15 years when you figure out that your windows need replacing, you can remove the trim, pull out the windows and replace them from the outside. Buy windows with flanges, and use the wide tape to seal around them.
@thecfarm (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=436) On all ground floor levels for sure
Me bride and I had a discussion and she doesn't want to be hurried with the house in case we aren't done when it gets cold, plus she said she doesn't want me without a shop or my man cave, so we are building a 32' x 50'x 17' with a 18' lean-to on the east and a 12' x 50' porch on the west. a second story on north end prolly 16' x 32'. Pour a slab and stick frame it. I can get the 1.625 x 5.750 green rc for about $14 cheaper per kiln df here. Sheathing in 3/4" x 12" is half price of the same area as a sheet of 5/8 OSB". Board & batten sided. Trucking will be about 3k, but still plenty saved.
How far wood one span the 3/4" x 12" boards? 2' will be on the roof, is that about it? I suppose I could do that on the walls where we'll have metal on the inside, but the sheet rock area's be 16" OC.
I wood rather go with a 50' clear span, but residential trusses aren't really made for that span. I don't really want the labor of putting the roof and ceiling purlin hangers on, plus the nailing the purlins themselves.
Well all the numbers are in. Green is about $8,666 cheaper than lumber yard DF/SYP is. Green is about 1,000 miles away. I wasn't able to find anyone closer that wood cut to order. It wood've been all random lengths. Anyways, w/ trucking @ around $3,500. That leaves about a 5k savings if we go green and that is if it's one loadable. 1 load or 2, I don't think 5k of savings is worth the hassles. What do you all say?
Thanks
Well it's 5000.00 $, how much can you haul with that dump trailer? 🤔. ;) I'm surprised you couldn't find a mill closer to cut it to order. I would think there might be mills in Missouri or Arkansas that would fill your order and be closer.
Quote from: Nebraska on March 17, 2021, 10:42:36 PM
Well it's 5000.00 $, how much can you haul with that dump trailer? 🤔. ;) I'm surprised you couldn't find a mill closer to cut it to order. I would think there might be mills in Missouri or Arkansas that would fill your order and be closer.
Oh I called and called, believe you me....... the googles was busy
I'd rent a bigger goose if I was going to haul it ourselves, but even though we are farm plate listed, the weight we need to be able to haul to make a the trip worthwhile puts us out of affordability due to CDL weight requirements vs putting it on a semi.
Yes 5k is 5k and 5k doesn't grow on trees in it's end form. That price difference was not including any extra I need to due to lumber that shouldn't be used due to knots or other deformities. I'm not sure what the overage is that I'd need, but was thinking at least 10%.