Well I've finally decided on a aprocessor. I was torn between a bells and blockbuster. Yesterday we looked at a blockbuster 22-22 and a bells 4000 bar saw and a bells 4000 circle saw. I want a bar saw cause circles just scare me. My son will be runnin it a fair amount I imagine and he's only 11 now. They scare me even if I'm runnin em. I know most don't agree but that's just me. After our day yesterday I'm set on a blockbuster. I'm not sure if it's quite as productive as a bells but blockbuster seems way more durable. I like the auto chain tension among other features too
Now what I'm torn between is an off set processor or a direct drop. The bells were direct drop and there seems to be less chunks get cockeyed in the splitting chamber than offset. Blockbuster will build either one but the salesman said he's worked there for 2 years and never sold a direct drop. If it's a direct drop I want a slide table to support the piece for the last cut. The one option they don't advertise I need is where the tray can flip either way to either put the cut off in the chamber or kick it off the machine if it's gott a huge knot on it cause I'll mostly be runnin a 12 way wedge on it. They say that's no problem to build. Not sure if it's possible with a direct drop though. I think when I split for long boilerwood a direct drop would work better so I can cut a long chunk. On an offset one if it don't roll down the ramp perfect it won't wanna slip between the wedge and ram. I'd have to cut em shorter than I want to for boiler wood. Also I'll have to ask him tomorow if a direct drop can have as long of a live deck due to everything on the machine being slid over that way. The guy with the blockbuster likes the offset. He had to rearrange more pieces but it is real easy to reach the chamber. I'm tall and I can even do it sitting in the seat. WhAt you all think direct drop or offset?
I've been spending a bit of time in a Bell 6000 with a circle saw. That saw definitely outcuts a barsaw- probably twice as fast. But I'm like you, I don't think it's worth it for the tradeoff in safety. Not in my situation anyhow. There's several things in play that form my opinion. This machine has a cab on it, and it makes it an absolute pain when a block falls sideways. You have to open the window, reach out with a hookeroon (don't forget about that blade!!) and wrestle the block straight. Big blocks, you end having to shut the machine down (to stop the blade) so you can get at it from the outside. Really, it's more of an enclosed cab problem I guess. Also, all of the mass of that blade and the swingarm jostles you around pretty good. This is a pretty early model I think, they have refinements now that would help. One is powered rollers in the splitting chamber that flip the block around. I wouldn't have a cab without those. It's a heck of a machine, an absolute beast! But for me, I need something I can more easily reach in to toss out junk pieces, and be able to handle short lengths. It's just too much machine for my little scrap powered operation😊
OH Logger. Glad to here you are getting a processor. I don't know the conditions of the wood you saw but I get around a fair amount of dirty wood with my homemade processor and I really get tired of sharping chains. I wish I would have built mine with a circle saw. I may try some carbide chain and see how it stands up.
Hi OH logger:
Ive got to agree with your sentiments. I built mine with the knowledge that chainsaws are maintenance prone and costly (with oil and sharpening) and also produce alot of sawdust. They do seem somewhat safer than the big blades that never stop until the machine is turned off. My machine is great for smaller logs (it is a Ø 26 3/4" blade) but it does take some time on the bigger ones over Ø 15". I built a automatic brake into mine because no matter what ever video online shows - the block do not always fall straight in, and also knots make the repositioning of your cut necessary if you want your splitter wedges to last!
if your curious:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LleSPY7bVg&t=337s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LleSPY7bVg&t=337s)
I have to admit the chainsaw seems much simpler - maybe my next one will have that...
I went against u all and bought a blockbuster chainsaw model (22-22) I just could never get comfortable with a circle saw with my kids runnin around the log yard. I try to keep my logs as clean as possible. The one clearing company I buy from recently bought a forwarder also so the logs I get from them are real clean. On logs smaller than 10" there is not much difference in cut times in my opinion. I sell logs bigger than 18" for pallet logs anyways and that's the size a circle saw shines. I store the logs on runners too so they aren't layin in the dirt. They guy that has been processing my wood has gone a full day (about 30 cord) without changing chains. Most days he uses a chain in the am then changes again at noon. We usually process with 2 guys. When I'm loading him I sharpen a chains in between loadin the deck. We aren't AT ALL in sawmill country either and I wouldn't have any clue where to go to get it hammered when it needs done. The reason for my original post though wasn't about a circle vs chainsaw it was about direct drop vs offset. Well in the end I called blockbuster and they couldn't integrate the kickout tray on a direct drop. Do that made my desision easy. Offset it is 😆. I like the IDEA of a kickout tray cause my son is a few years away from learning how to run a saw to cut out any big ole knots so they don't get jammed in the 12 way wedge we'll b using a decent bit of the time. He's gonna process some by himself after school when I'm in the woods. Other times I'll run the processor and he'll load me when he's not in school and I'm not in the woodS. Either way he should be the trimmer and he's too young for that still so that's the point of the kickout tray. I just hope the kickout works as good as it is in my head 😊. He and I went out to blockbuster in Iowa Tuesday to completely spec out and order it. I'm glad we did so we didn't miss as much lol What a great company. Very accommodating. Very willing to customize to meet our needs. I'm very content in my decision. Well so far lol
I agree, I don't think that circle saw gains you anything in smaller wood. 10"+ absolutely it does, I've actually been sorting my smaller wood out to save for a smaller barsaw processor I rent- it seems like a bit if a waste if time on the Bell's. You have to wait on that big swing arm to cycle all the way down, and back up, with the circle saw. I'm sure you could make some modifications so the saw didn't have to go all the way "home" before the clamp opens up, that would speed things up on small wood about 3X. I'll try to post some videos of what I'm talking about.
Block Buster thumbs-up smiley_hollywood_cool smiley_thumbsup
I know just what U mean barbender about the saw goin all the way up and goin slower down. The bells barsaw we looked at went down real fast until it hit the wood. Faster down than the circle saw. And the circle saw STILL shook the whole machine. Seems like a ton of stress on the welds and bearings
Yeah when I'm getting the hang if that machine and have it going at full capacity, that circle saw is jostling you in the cab pretty good. Almost feels like I'm out running forwarder!
OH logger glad to here you have your processor on order. I think you like the offset drop better I know if I was building mine again I would do the offset drop my direct drop has it moments. In my little operation anything 10 inches or smaller gets ran threw my buzz saw kind of processor as it doesn't have a splitter on it just the circle saw. I don't split 10 inch or smaller hedge but I am only doing it for myself for my Garn. I hope you like the bar saw I just get tired of oily saw dust all over ever thing. Seems like blockbuster builds a solid machine.
Great work on all you guys to have a good fact finding mission on what suits you best.
I also agree with the idea to look at quick little tweaks to save a bit of time on every cycle. I was running mine this year when I noticed I could easily forward the conveyor as I was splitting the cut below (just needed to release the clamp first) . It wasn't possible with my previous smaller engine but did work with the bigger one. It easily speeds things up by 4-5 seconds per cycle. Adds up a lot over a logs length!
Good luck with the new machine!
You'll like it. Mine has 7,000 hours on it and still going strong. If you have any questions, you've got my number.
They tell me the processors comin this week!! I'll keep updates and comments comin
I always thought Blockbuster was a good outfit especially when compared to some other processer builders. The circle 'chop saw' has flywheel effect and that has alot to do with it's speed. The shape and size of the wood you are getting means everything. If you can't hold your wood still the circle will rub and heat fast. At the shows they go like H and then shut if down before the circle saw goes berserk. At least a chainsaw will not really heat and ruin the tension in the saw. I would like to see a 3/4" pitch chain saw on a processer.
Quote from: hedgerow on May 19, 2020, 09:54:40 AM
OH Logger. Glad to here you are getting a processor. I don't know the conditions of the wood you saw but I get around a fair amount of dirty wood with my homemade processor and I really get tired of sharping chains. I wish I would have built mine with a circle saw. I may try some carbide chain and see how it stands up.
My dad and I run a multitek with a bar and it does surprisingly well with dirty wood. It uses 11BC 3/4 pitch chain and it holds up way better than a normal chainsaw chain would. The chain is harder and it taking a deeper cut each time around so each tooth gets less mileage in the wood.
Erichmat, thanks for the post.
I got the machine a week or 2 late but happy with it. Had a flow control valve leak which I tried to put new o rings in it. Still leaked so blockbuster sent me a new valve body and o rings for it when I need em (under warranty). The auto tension springs Are too light so it wants to throw the chain off which burrs it up if the Chain skiffs the log in the way up. So they sent me a restrictir fitting for the hyd line goin to the saw to keep the chain tighter for longer as it goes up. Works good now. But I needed to use it when I finally got the processor and threw off 5 chains and burred em up bad so they sent me 5 new chains for free. They are treating me good but they knew the auto tension springs were too light it should've came to me with the restrictor in the hyd line. Save me aggravation but that's the way it goes. Other than that I like it. Did a 3 cord load last night in an hour and my 11 year old ran it for a quarter of the load and we even had to put the chain back on 3 times. I'm not that onto it yet but we were runnin nice logs. So it is fast. I'm not completely sold on the auto tension yet. I wanna use it more before I decide that though. I just wish the chain was a little tighter. Cause when i burr a chainsaw Chain up a little I just put the chain on a little loose run it a little and tighten up again. Not possible with auto tension. I did take a grinder to the drivers on the 5 chains and clean up so I can still use em. They are real new yet
Sorry to hear of all the grief its given you. Thats disappointing.
OH logger Sorry your having issues. Hopefully block buster will get it sorted out for you. If you get a chance post a picture of that auto tension set up.
They're bein as good as possible. They gave me some new chains to replace the burred up ones and they sent me a heavier spring. I'm gonna put it on the machine tomorrow. Its the same spring as they used to use. They feel it will fix my problem. The restrictir they had me put in the hyd line helped a little but definitely didn't fix the issue all together. They also sent me a chain that is one drive link shorther than the others. Didn't fix issue either. Other than that I'm real happy with the machine.
Hopefully they get it squared away for you. Hydraulic tensioners are great when they work, and not great at all when they don't. Do they sell the manual type tensioner for their saw as well?
They do put them on the smaller machines. Auto tension is an option. Today we did 3 cord of boiler wood threw the chain off once. Next we did about 10 cord of 16" long wood out of about 8-10" average diameter logs and didn't throw the chain off once! Not sure if I'll put the new tighter spring on just yet. I might wait till I have to do a big batch of big boiler wood. The lighter spring that's on it now will wear the bar less in the meantime.
Do you guys use the auto tensioners on mechanical harvesters?
Have owned my Blockbuster for 7years and 100's of cords for the two outdoor woodburners on the farms. The only thing replaced is the manual chain tightner. Normal wear from use. I always feather the hyd chain when starting a cut. Have never had any issues. Well built heavy machine. Mine is the pto driven machine rated at 1 cord per hour and i can produce 2 cords/hr. When the machine is running full capacity and no down time. I power it with a 74 hp MM tractor. When i move it, lift the 3pt and go. It is about the width of my corn planter (14 ft).
Ohio logger where are you located?
Lima Findlay area
All of our Ponsse harvesters have hydraulic tensioners. They work very well, but you can still throw chains, for instance hitting small brush on the back of a cut. They wouldn't be throwing chains in the situations you describe, OH, unless something was wrong, like a bad bearing on the shaft.
OH Logger, how are you liking your blockbuster? I bought a new 18-20+ last year. I sold it about a week ago. I wasn't over ally impressed, the wedge setup really annoyed me with it always raising while splitting and seemed like i could never get consistent pieces out of the machine. I ended up drilling a hole in wedge and putting a pin in it so it wouldnt lift completely out of machine while splitting. I got the attached 12' conveyor, i took that off the machine within the first 15 hours of using it. Always getting jammed up , and stopping production.
I'm not sure what to buy next, really wish the logging expos would have been open this year. Im thinking a multitek, with a circular blade. The bar setup worked, but it is definitely slow.
Sorry to hear that. Can you please post some pictures of the wedge and conveyor design so no one clones them on a build?
I really like it now that i put the heavier spring in the auto tension. I see what U mean about the wedge coming up and even worse almost out of the machine. That sucks. As far as the pin u put on the wedge did u attach it to the arm that raises the wedge? Or just through the wedge so it can't come up and out of the slot it's in? I didn't get the attached conveyor NoW I'm glad I didn't. I already had a 40' conveyor from them. The only time I need another little conveyor is when I split and load directly onto a truck which I only do prolly 100 cord like that. So I just bought a 12' ABS stand alone conveyor a month or two ago. Cheaper than attached and put it in barn when I'm not using it. I put it right behind the processor and it dumps into the cleaner and that dumps into the big conveyor and onto the truck.
As far as a different brand I'd look at bells. But if I HAD to get a circle saw I'd dang neared only get a multitek. The 2020 I think it is. They make 2 with the guillotine style and it's the bigger one of the 2. Seems not as fast coming down as the regular style but seems like the guillotine style would be WAY less stressful on the machine.
Also what wedge were you using most of the time? I bought the 4,6,8,12 way with it. I thought I was gonna use the 12 way quite a bit. I tried it for a few hours one day. It's kinda hard to explain but the bottom wings on the "box" part of the wedge are angled pretty decently down so the wood don't get jammed in the box part as it goes through. That is nesessary. But it's also a problem cause the wedge floats. So if it's a smaller log that only contacts the bottom half of the wedge it wants to lift the wedge. Then the next piece and the next piece so pretty soon it's REAL high. I think it's gonna work fine when in big wood that makes contact with the upper part of the wedge as well as the lower part of the wedge. Does that make sense to anyone else but me? I'll just have to sort my logs which I really didn't want to do but I might have to. Lately anything that's too big for the 8 way to make nice sized wood I've been separating to use the 4 way on for boiler wood
The floating wedges on my Dyna had the same issue of continually creeping up. I would have to run a small piece through and empty the wedge in order to reset it. My Eastonmade splitter wedges were height adjusted by a hydraulic cylinder which held better than the Dyna but still suffered the upward "creep" and would need to be cleared before you could lower it back. Made no difference; 4 way, 6-way, or box they all crept up. I think a wedge would need to be bolted or pinned in place for it not to be forced up but then you probably will start destroying wedges. Some stuff is better left to rot.
What i TRY to do is while I'm splitting a bigger log keep my eye on the next log on the deck. When I have 2-3 split cycles left on the big log I'll lower my wedge down to where I'll need it for the smaller log. If I let the splitter cylinder go all the way out as I'm finishing the big log by the time I get to the smaller log it's usually down.
The guy that used to make wood for me had a woodbine and the wedge was attached to the cylinder. On his the cylinder was above the wedge. He bent MULTIPLE cylinder rods before Reworked the setup to give it some slop. Worked better after that.
I had the 6 and 8 way wedge, didn't matter what wedge i had on. I drilled a hole in the wedge and pinned it just to stop it from coming all the way out. The other thing i wasn't too keen of is that the bar chain oiler uses the same "hydraulic" tank as the rest of the machine, and it is ATF which can get expensive . It was a learning experience, and from what i hear talking to other firewood guys in my area - we all go threw it haha. I am looking at multitek or a CRD rapido loco . I know the CRD's are out of business and were built semi cheap but everyone around here says they just plain work, and work well.
When I first built my firewood processor I had my hyd multi wedge operated with the cylinder over head pinned solid. It worked that way for a while with no issues and then that knotty piece came along and it broke the over head mount off the processor so I made it with some slop in the cylinder mount and that worked for a while then a piece came along and broke the mount clean off. Know the cylinder is mounted down at the table behind the multi wedge and its not pinned at all. Sometimes it will push up and make the pieces different size but it doesn't tear the mount or the wedge up. I can always resplit if needed. That's better than tearing the machine up.
My 14-12 came with a bolt to keep the wedge from pushing up and out. I got nasty twisted pieces stuck exactly twice and had to cut them out with a chainsaw because there was no way to get the bolt out to lift the whole thing out of the machine to do it. I took the bolt out so the wedge could float as intended and never put it back. I run tractor fluid in mine. It's cheaper than ATF for sure and bar oil too. The hydraulics warm up so it lubes the bar. A separate system for bar oiling never warms up when it's cold and most recommend winter grade bar oil year around. I'd much rather have the oil come from the hydraulics. One less system to fail and no bar oil to buy.